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VIDEO: The best of both worlds with the Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch Time+Tide
Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch Oct 15, 2020

VIDEO: The best of both worlds with the Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch

If you’re someone who spends more time looking at screens than you would like to, but don’t want to miss an important call, the Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch is an interesting proposition. At first impression, or from across the room, you would think you were looking at a mechanical mid-century wristwatch. After all, the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The best of both worlds with the Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun “SFTI” SJX Watches
IWC Oct 15, 2020

Hands-On: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun “SFTI”

IWC is not the only maker of pilot’s watches, but it is perhaps the best known. The brand’s line up of aviator’s timepieces is all encompassing, from basic three-handers to chronographs, and paradoxically for an aviation instrument, even perpetual calendars. But the latest pilot’s offering is straightforward. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun “SFTI” is a chronograph with a ceramic case, but its pushers, crown, and case back are Ceratanium, which is essentially titanium coated with ceramic. And more notably, it’s a limited edition of 1,500 watches that will be sold publicly, but is based on a similar watch created in 2018 that is available only to graduates of the United States Navy Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor (SFTI) programme, better known as TOPGUN. Initial thoughts IWC is not short on pilot’s watches, even special or limited-edition pilot’s watches. The brand has rolled out many, many iterations, variations, and editions. But the Pilot’s Watch collection is a bestseller so that’s commercially inevitable. But that doesn’t take away from the intrinsic appeal of a pilot’s watch. And IWC has been especially successful at tweaking the no-nonsense design to make it interesting in a way that appeals to the boy in every man. Some of the appeal isn’t sophisticated, but it is there – like the red fighter jet silhouette as the seconds hand counterweight. The base-model IWC Pilot’s Chronograph in steel has that appeal, and in blac...

De Bethune Introduces the DW5 Cempasúchil SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces Oct 15, 2020

De Bethune Introduces the DW5 Cempasúchil

Already a well-established tradition at De Bethune, the unusual use of metal alloys along with elaborate engraving defines the Maestri’Art DW5 Cempasúchil, a unique watch created for Salón Internacional Alta Relojería México (SIAR), the country’s leading luxury-watch fair that takes place October 20-22. The Cempasúchil is a unique piece that’s the latest instalment in the Dream Watch 5 (DW5) series that started out as a sleek creation resembling a metallic seashell. More recently, the DW5 has more recently been used as a blank canvas for heavily decorative engraving, something the Cempasúchil takes that to the extreme. The titanium case of the Cempasúchil is heat blued and inlaid with gold in various colours, forming an intricate yet cartoonish motif inspired by the Mexican festival of Día de Muertos, or Day of the Dead. And that explains the model name, which is also a type of marigold also known as flor de los muertos, or “flower of the dead”. Cempasúchil front And back Initial thoughts Done by De Bethune’s go-to engraver, the quality of the work on the Cempasúchil is unmistakably high quality. And the multi-coloured gold inlay elevates the work to another level entirely. And the exuberant, whimsical of multiple calavera, or decorated skulls, is very much in keeping with the spirit of the Day of the Dead, a celebration of the departed rather than a sad occasion. But the combination of the DW5 and the motif doesn’t gel. Traditionally seamless,...

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 160 Years Limited Edition “Dato 45” Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 160 Oct 14, 2020

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 160 Years Limited Edition “Dato 45”

TAG Heuer continue to celebrate their 160th anniversary this year with the release of their latest heritage-inspired limited edition. This is a formula that has offered both surprise and delight to collectors around the world in 2020. With the release of several new references (which we have covered here, here and here) that not only … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 160 Years Limited Edition “Dato 45” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Celebrate! The Grand Seiko SLGH003 brings the mind-bending dual impulse escapement in the 9SA5 movement to steel Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGH003 brings Oct 14, 2020

Celebrate! The Grand Seiko SLGH003 brings the mind-bending dual impulse escapement in the 9SA5 movement to steel

Grand Seiko has been a true value proposition for collectors since its rebirth, providing some of the highest quality watches for your dollar. Many have had some contention with the inevitable reality that the brand would eventually go further upmarket, anxious that their latest and greatest technical innovations would be out of reach of the … ContinuedThe post Celebrate! The Grand Seiko SLGH003 brings the mind-bending dual impulse escapement in the 9SA5 movement to steel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

By the end of this video, you’ll know if you need James Bond’s Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Oct 14, 2020

By the end of this video, you’ll know if you need James Bond’s Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition

EDITOR’S NOTE: We first published this story in July 2020 in the lead-up to the purported release of the new James Bond film, No Time to Die. And then the film was delayed and delayed and delayed. Until now… But while you may have got impatient for Daniel Craig’s last hurrah, don’t take it out on his Omega … ContinuedThe post By the end of this video, you’ll know if you need James Bond’s Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watchmaking: How the Art of Precision Regulation Became a Science SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Oct 14, 2020

Watchmaking: How the Art of Precision Regulation Became a Science

They were once the horological elite, credited with magical powers. The precision timers who tuned the watches for the observatory trials in the 1960s and 1970s are now a dwindling band in the twilight of their lives. In those days, when mechanical precision rather than mechanical complication determined the value of a watch, precision timing was a post-graduate discipline that took a lifetime to master. Before he died last October in his 90th year, one old timer, François Mercier of Le Locle, described what he had to do to win prizes for his employers, initially Ulysse Nardin and then the hairspring spring manufacturer Spiraux Réunis. First, he had to identify the most faultless spring, calculate and shape the terminal curve, pin it up to the staff of a previously poised balance wheel. Then he would shift balance screws by hundredths of a millimetre, adjust forces and inertia in micrograms, to move a fraction of a second closer to the unattainable goal of a true and constant time. An overcoil hairspring in a contemporary Voutilainen Vingt-8 Temperature compensation  The biggest challenge was to compensate for the effects of temperature changes on the steel alloy springs of old. As the temperature rose, the spring would lose its elasticity and beat more slowly. Such springs needed a compensation balance made of two metals each having a different coefficient of expansion. Rising temperatures would cause the cut ends of the balance rim to curl inwards, thereby increasing...

INTRODUCING: The new Yema Superman Bronze collection debuts two new in-house calibers, with fresh dials in a strong combination of steel and bronze Time+Tide
Yema Oct 14, 2020

INTRODUCING: The new Yema Superman Bronze collection debuts two new in-house calibers, with fresh dials in a strong combination of steel and bronze

The Yema Superman is a strong vintage diver, with two selling points that should be a wake-up call for other brands, starting with an obvious and rather rhetorical question: When you go out to buy a pair of jeans with your slimmer and shorter mate (speaking for myself here), do you buy the exact same … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Yema Superman Bronze collection debuts two new in-house calibers, with fresh dials in a strong combination of steel and bronze appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary yellow gold Time+Tide
Hublot Oct 13, 2020

The Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary yellow gold

Brands such as Rolex, Richard Mille and Patek Philippe have all incorporated rubber into their high-end watches, but there can only be one pioneer who got the party started. Forty years ago, Hublot founder and designer Carlo Crocco took the watch world by storm, pairing a porthole-inspired yellow gold watch with a rubber strap integrated … ContinuedThe post The Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary yellow gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our Predictions In The Iconic Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Another Head-Scratcher For Our Panelists But There’s A Clear Favorite Quill & Pad
Oct 13, 2020

Our Predictions In The Iconic Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Another Head-Scratcher For Our Panelists But There’s A Clear Favorite

The Iconic category emphasizes men’s or women’s watches from a brand’s emblematic collection, meaning one that has had a lasting influence on watchmaking and its history as well as having been on the market for more than 20 years. Our panelists have mixed feelings about the Iconic category and are (nearly) split down the middle on picking a favorite.

“They polish places nobody can see.” Why the Instagram king of macro videography loves Grand Seiko Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Oct 13, 2020

“They polish places nobody can see.” Why the Instagram king of macro videography loves Grand Seiko

In this instalment of our discussion with the King of the Close-Up, Mr @horomariobro (you can find the first part right here), we take a deep dive into a brand that has a well-established reputation for getting the details right – Grand Seiko. Specifically, we take an extremely close look at his own Grand Seiko … ContinuedThe post “They polish places nobody can see.” Why the Instagram king of macro videography loves Grand Seiko appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

8 affordable watches under $1000 that get the nod from watch snobs: 2020 Edition Time+Tide
Oct 13, 2020

8 affordable watches under $1000 that get the nod from watch snobs: 2020 Edition

At first glance, many assume that in order to get your feet wet in the horology hobby you have to shell out thousands and thousands of dollars to get a quality watch. The reality is there are plenty of more affordable options in the marketplace to elevate your wrist game, and gain the attention and … ContinuedThe post 8 affordable watches under $1000 that get the nod from watch snobs: 2020 Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MB&F; Introduces the LM Perpetual EVO SJX Watches
MB&F; Oct 13, 2020

MB&F; Introduces the LM Perpetual EVO

The most complicated MB&F; watch when it was launched in 2015, the LM Perpetual (or LM QP) was powered by an ingenious movement combining a “split” escapement and a novel perpetual calendar mechanism developed by Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell. Now MB&F; has reworked the watch to create its sportier and more robust successor, the LM Perpetual EVO. Featuring several tweaks to the case, dial, and movement that are cumulatively significant, the LM Perpetual EVO boasts increased water resistance along with an integrated rubber strap. The LM Perpetual EVO is a limited edition of 15 watches each in black, blue, and orange Initial thoughts Even though the Legacy Machine (LM) line was conceived as something inspired by the 19th century and Jules Verne, the LM Perpetual with its open-worked, intricate dial was always stylishly modern, though that was toned down by the white-lacquered sub-dials of the original model. The EVO, however, makes full use of the open-worked dial to become an uber-contemporary watch. Both the material and construction of the case are new: it’s now zirconium with a more complicated architecture, featuring recessed sides and angular lugs that integrate with the strap. And the sub-dials are black, creating a striking contrast against the base plate in black, blue, or orange. Most notably, the EVO brings to mind the Harry Winston Project Z1, which was the other major product developed by MB&F; founder Maximilian Büsser when he was chief executive of ...

Czapek and Arab Watch Club Introduce the Place Vendôme “Al Kanz” SJX Watches
Czapek Oct 13, 2020

Czapek and Arab Watch Club Introduce the Place Vendôme “Al Kanz”

A collaboration between Arab Watch Club and Czapek to create a one-off wristwatch that will benefit a good cause has reach fruition. Inlaid with an unusual green mineral, the Place Vendôme “Al Kanz” is decorated with engraved motifs inspired by Middle Eastern culture. Al kanz, or أل كنز, is Arabic for “the treasure”, and the namesake watch will be exhibited in Dubai later this month before being sold at Christie’s online auction in November, with all proceeds going to the Emirates Foundation, a charity established by the government of Abu Dhabi. Initial thoughts One-off watches created for charity auctions make sense, since they benefit both the watchmaker and a worthy cause, which in this case is an organisation focused on youth in the region. The brainchild of Hassan Akhras, founder of Arab Watch Club (AWC), the Al Kanz is a thoughtful collaboration that has resulted in a striking watch. The use of zoisite adds new colour to the watch, with the bright green mineral rings highlighting the architecture of the movement. In fact, the stock version of the Place Vendôme is a bit too plain, while this version is livened up just enough. Although the green and aubergine accents are striking, they are relatively restrained so the overall appearance remains classical and clean. What’s new The highlight of the Al Kanz is definitely the dial. The additional of colour and texture to the sub-dials immediately set it apart from the standard Place Vendôme models ...

The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Jury Has Been Chosen: Commentary On The Judges Making The Choices For The Best Watches Of The Year Quill & Pad
Oct 13, 2020

The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Jury Has Been Chosen: Commentary On The Judges Making The Choices For The Best Watches Of The Year

In perusing the names of the 2020 jury of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, two distinct things became obvious to former jury member Elizabeth Doerr: that the entire jury is based in Switzerland and that it is far less diverse than it has been over the last decade. Here she breaks down why that is and provides some commentary and background on the new members.

The Longines HydroConquest Green Review WatchAdvice
Longines Oct 13, 2020

The Longines HydroConquest Green Review

It seems that the world of horology has been taken over by two trends over the past decade or so, blue integrated sports watches, and green dive watches. Every brand has been engaged in a cold war era arms race to produce the best of these two fads. An arms race that has been all but won by two global superpowers, Patek Philippe with their Nautilus have staked claim to being the kings of all things integrated bracelet. Rolex, raining supreme with their famed but now discontinued, Green Submariner, a behemoth of the industry aptly named, the Hulk. The industries lesser powers have been fighting to keep up with the demand and surge in popularity of the aforementioned icons. With that surge, and such low supply, the masses have flocked to pre-owned markets, the grey market, for the chance to pay near double the RRP and have the privilege of owning the most famous green dive watch. Thankfully, in an attempt to share in the hysteria, brands have rushed to offer their own versions of pieces like the Submariner Hulk, offering consumers viable alternatives in which to spend their hard-earned money. The Longines HydroConquest green, is one such alternative, but is it a true Hulk buster? or just another puny watch in a bright green suit? Editors note: The model reviewed in this feature is reference L3.781.4.06.9 the 41mm variant which is supplied on the green rubber strap. Other models are available for configuration, including 43mm case sizes and stainless-steel bracelets. No opini...