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Thursday, June 11
Max Maertens Dishes on His Creative Process in Designing the New MB&F; HM12 Worn & Wound
MB&F 6h ago

Max Maertens Dishes on His Creative Process in Designing the New MB&F; HM12

I first met Max Maertens at Dubai Watch Week last year. The young designer already has a storied career under his belt, working on projects with brands like Chopard, Vacheron Constantin, Cartier, and MB&F;, where he started out as an intern. Here, something clicked. For several years, Maertens firmly fell in the “F” or “friends” category of the brand, collaborating with MB&F; and L’Epée on the T-Rex clock before being given free rein to create the TriPod and the Orb. But his legacy with MB&F; is only just getting started. Through these projects on several horological objects, the brand’s founder Max Busser saw something special and took him under his wing as his protégé and future successor. Today, we see Maertens’ first take on a more traditional MB&F; wristwatch – well…. sort of. Making its grand entrance is the HM12 Guardian, the next chapter in the brand’s horological machines. It started with a “simple” brief (though we all know, nothing MB&F; does is simple. “I was in Max’s office, and he said to me, ‘wouldn’t it be cool to create a watch that’s also a robot’s head?’ And somehow, immediately in that moment, a vision popped in my mind of how it should look,” recalls Maertens. “In the end, I would say this final concept of the HM12 is about 80% of what I had in my mind from that first idea.” Yes, the concept still originated from the mind of Busser himself, but the design of the new HM12 Guardian – a wristwatch with a “very...

First Look – The New Christiaan van der Klaauw Venus Zodiac, Planetary Mechanics on the Wrist Monochrome
Christiaan van der Klaauw Venus Zodiac Planetary Mechanics 7h ago

First Look – The New Christiaan van der Klaauw Venus Zodiac, Planetary Mechanics on the Wrist

Christiaan van der Klaauw (founded in 1974 in the Netherlands) has dedicated itself almost exclusively to astronomical complications, creating wristwatches that display celestial phenomena with remarkable mechanical ingenuity. From planetariums to highly accurate moon phases, the brand turns astronomy into wearable mechanical art. Following the introduction of its new in-house CKM-01 calibre in 2024, this […]

The Business of Watches Podcast: Benjamin Arabov, CEO Of Jacob & Co. Hodinkee
Jacob & Co. 7h ago

The Business of Watches Podcast: Benjamin Arabov, CEO Of Jacob & Co.

This week on The Business of Watches, a brand we don't talk about a lot on this channel - Jacob & Co. Complicated, audacious, and expensive, Jacob & Co. watches hold a unique position in the industry. The brand enjoyed a strong 2025, growing sales and volumes, according to estimates by Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult, bucking the industry trend.  And the brand recently got some high-profile exposure on the wrist of the Roland Garros winner with French Open champion Alexander Zverev wearing Jacob & Co. during his matches and on the podium. We sat down in Geneva with Benjamin Arabov, the Chief Executive Officer of Jacob & Co., to talk about the brand's operations and strategy. You might be surprised at how Jacob & Co. watches are produced, the size of its production, and how the brand is being impacted by the war in the Middle East. But first, some business news headlines, including looming job cuts at one of Switzerland's most important and respected watch brands, which are the result of shifting trends impacting the industry. Sources: Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult And finally - looking ahead to next week's episode, number 30 in the history of The Business of Watches, we're planning a special Q&A; episode and will gather some of the Hodinkee team, including editor-in-chief James Stacey and editors Mark Kauzlarich and TanTan Wang, to answer your business-related questions. Want to offer up a question? Please drop it in the comments below.  We're looking forward to hearing f...

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Introducing: Hodinkee Magazine Volume 16 Hodinkee
Rexhep Rexhepi contributes 9h ago

Introducing: Hodinkee Magazine Volume 16

It's summer in NYC. The Knicks are up 2-1 in the Finals. The pace has slowed a touch with the warmer weather, but the cold brew is still coursing through our veins, and society is sorting itself into two camps: people who stand in line for Dot Cake and those who do not. You can draw your own conclusions there. In other words, the city is immaculate right now. At Hodinkee HQ, that can only mean one thing: it's time for our new summer issue. Transatlantic by Design: How Tiffany & Co.'s watchmaking has always moved between New York and Switzerland, by Malaika Crawford. Volume 16 arrives with two covers. One celebrates Tiffany & Co.'s new Timer while looking back through the brand's remarkable watchmaking archives. The other marks 100 years of the Rolex Oyster with one of our most ambitious Reference Points to date, a deep dive into the Oyster Perpetual and the enduring influence of Rolex's most foundational watch. Written by former Hodinkee editor and Bring A Loupe alumnus, Rich Fordon. Reference Points: Rolex Oyster Perpetual  by Rich Fordon. 100 years of the Oyster case proves a blueprint for everything Rolex does. Elsewhere, Nora Taylor spends time with Knicks guard Josh Hart, discussing basketball, collecting, and the watches that have accompanied him throughout his career. Independent watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi contributes a personal essay on craft, responsibility, and the act of building something intended to outlast its maker.  Then Jason Heaton revisits the legend o...

Introducing the Autodromo Group C Turbo Sport, the Brand’s First Ana-Digi Watch Worn & Wound
10h ago

Introducing the Autodromo Group C Turbo Sport, the Brand’s First Ana-Digi Watch

Few innovations in automobile engines have been as impactful as the turbocharger, first brought to production cars in the 1960s and popularized in the United States largely thanks to the iconic turbodiesel 1978 Mercedes-Benz 300SD. With a telltale whistle accompanying that extra boost of power, the turbocharger soon became synonymous with motorsports and performance cars of the 1980s: the Audi Quatto’s breathy flutter, the 930 Porsche 911 Turbo’s heartpounding lag, and the Ford Sierra RS Cosworth’s European rally dominance all helped propel the decade into the “golden era” of turbocharged performance.  With their latest release, motorsport-inspired watchmakers Autodromo are bringing another homage to a period of automotive innovation, this time highlighting the Group C “prototype” class of sports cars from the 1980s, many of which featured bold (and sometimes dangerous) turbocharged power. The basis of this new collection is their already-successful Group C digital watch, initially released in 2023, and the new Turbo Sport models draw inspiration from the analog tachometers of turbocharged ‘80s motorsports legends to create an ani-digi design that straddles the classic and modern eras of automotive and horological design.  First, the dimensions: measuring in at 38.5mm in case diameter and 40mm lug-to-lug, the Group C Turbo Sport is compact, and sits fairly lightly on the wrist with a 11.4mm case thickness measurement. The case itself is anodized aluminum ...

Introducing: The Makina Cassiel II — A Brutalist Chronograph From The Philippines Fratello
12h ago

Introducing: The Makina Cassiel II — A Brutalist Chronograph From The Philippines

Philippine microbrand Makina returns with the Makina Cassiel II. This second iteration looks nothing like the original Cassiel. However, it looks much more like a Makina now, and that’s a good thing. Join me for a closer look at a distinctly brutalist, design-first chronograph. The Makina Cassiel II goes on presale today, priced at US$1,850. […] Visit Introducing: The Makina Cassiel II — A Brutalist Chronograph From The Philippines to read the full article.

First Look – The New MB&F; HM12 The Guardian, A Sci-Fi Horological Machine with a Robot Companion Monochrome
MB&F; 13h ago

First Look – The New MB&F; HM12 The Guardian, A Sci-Fi Horological Machine with a Robot Companion

Childhood imagination and science fiction to inspire high-end watchmaking? Why not, and MB&F; is proof that it can be a successful combination. Since the launch of HM1 in 2007, Maximilian Büsser’s concept laboratory has consistently transformed memories of spaceships, supercars, aircraft and robots into complex mechanical creations for the wrist. Some of the brand’s memorable […]

Max-imum cool: MB&F; HM12 “The Guardian” SJX Watches
MB&F; 13h ago

Max-imum cool: MB&F; HM12 “The Guardian”

After more than 20 years, avante garde independent MB&F; returns to its roots and looks to its future with HM12 The Guardian. It combines a Horological Machine with a high-end shaped movement, flying tourbillon the most elaborate – and coolest – watch stand imaginable: a nearly 400 mm tall, 15 kg robot. Better yet, The Guardian can shift into battle mode at a moments notice, deploying armor to protect its weak points. Initial Thoughts MB&F; marks its 20th anniversary with HM12 The Guardian, or would have, had it been ready in time. Instead HM12 celebrates MB&F;’s future, as the first project led solely by the brand’s creative director (and Max Büsser’s heir), Max Maertens. Mr Büsser kicked the project off about four years ago by pitching a robot with a watch for a face, following up on the brand’s robot Melchior and Balthazar desk clocks. After that, Max 2.0 was left to his own devices, with this as the result. It is a very reassuring result for those concerned about the brand’s future after Maximilian Büsser’s eventual retirement, which isn’t yet imminent, but something the brand is clearly preparing for. Interestingly, Eric Giroud, who has designed just about every MB&F; watch, was not involved in the project either. Max (left) and Max (right). Image – MB&F; While discussing the project, Mr Büsser told me that Mr Maertens actually modelled the robot himself in SolidWorks, which goes well beyond the normal duties of a designer. That Maertens did the har...

A Hands-On Introduction To The New Raymond Weil A.R.T. Collection Fratello
Raymond Weil A.R.T Collection Ever since 15h ago

A Hands-On Introduction To The New Raymond Weil A.R.T. Collection

Ever since Raymond Weil won the GPHG Challenge Watch Prize in 2023 with the Millesime, the brand has been on a roll. The Millesime collection really shows that stylish Swiss-made watches don’t have to break the bank. The same goes for last year’s dressier Toccata Heritage Series. Now, the brand, led by Raymond Weil’s grandson […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The New Raymond Weil A.R.T. Collection to read the full article.

It’s Easy To See Why The Updated Royal Is Tudor’s Best Release Of 2026 Fratello
Tudor s Best Release 19h ago

It’s Easy To See Why The Updated Royal Is Tudor’s Best Release Of 2026

Most watch enthusiasts would agree that Tudor’s introductions during Watches and Wonders 2026 were not very surprising, apart from the Monarch and maybe the black ceramic Black Bay. Overall, it was a year of updates, and they tend to be less exciting. Just as a reminder, we got a new dial color for the Black […] Visit It’s Easy To See Why The Updated Royal Is Tudor’s Best Release Of 2026 to read the full article.

Seiko Celebrates their Long Relationship with PADI: Introducing the HBB002 PADI 60th Anniversary Diver Worn & Wound
Seiko Celebrates their Long Relationship Yesterday

Seiko Celebrates their Long Relationship with PADI: Introducing the HBB002 PADI 60th Anniversary Diver

Earlier this year, I helped a close friend pick out her first mechanical watch: a beautiful blue Seiko Prospex “Save the Ocean” special edition. For me, it was an easy recommendation, given my love of Seiko, their position as the true global king of entry- to mid-level watch purchases, and the prestige of the Prospex diver line itself. For her, as a lover of all things to do with the natural world, it was meaningful thanks to the eco-benefitting twist and oceanic theming. That particular Prospex was not the first, nor the last Seiko to showcase an organization doing work for ocean conservation and education: new for 2026 is the Prospex HBB002, celebrating the Professional Association of Diving Instructors’ (PADI) 60th anniversary.  Seiko’s connection with the world of diving goes far beyond the simple styling and function of many of their iconic diver timepieces. As the company points out, it released its first diver in 1965, just one year before the PADI itself was founded with the intention of raising training standards and expanding access to education on diving as a hobby and profession. Now operating in 183 countries, PADI also puts promoting ocean conservation at its forefront, a noble cause that Seiko themselves have championed with their Save the Ocean program. So, it makes sense that Seiko has supported PADI as a partner for ten years, and is celebrating that partnership and PADI’s sixtieth anniversary with the new HBB002 model.  The watch itself bring...

Photo Report: Inside Hermès Horloger Manufacture Hodinkee
Hermes Yesterday

Photo Report: Inside Hermès Horloger Manufacture

We've all been told at least once in life to stick to our own lane. It's an old trope that historically holds merit. Stick to one discipline, master it, and you'll succeed. But in 2026, the rulebook has changed in almost every aspect of life, and sometimes those one-trick ponies aren't the ones leading the charge; they're actually left in the stable. La Montre Hermès S.A in Brugg, Switzerland. In watchmaking, it transpires that the latest crop of brands to realize this are the names we most associate with being wider fashion houses. Empires sustained by hand-stitching legacy into cloth, amplified in the theatre of the catwalk, now play in the watchmaking arena. We've witnessed many of these names turn to watchmaking as an additional arm to their already bulletproof name, and crucially, they're delivering watches with real merit. For Hermès, despite having a presence in watchmaking since the early 20th century, with Universal Genève as the brand's watchmaking partner from the 1930s and the production of exclusively Hermès-signed pieces such as desk clocks, this rise has been built brick by brick since the 1970s. Outfitting horses came first, then their riders, and it quickly proved that true luxury comes from mastery, not scale. During the 1970s, the maison decided to build schools to train artisans the Hermès way, passing along hand-stitching, leather cutting, and scarf-printing techniques from master to apprentice. While other names pursued mass production or outsour...