Revolution
Introducing Omega’s Seamaster Diver 300M America’s Cup Chronograph
Omega delivers a special edition in tribute to their third term serving as Timekeeper for the 36th America’s Cup in Auckland this March.
Revolution
Omega delivers a special edition in tribute to their third term serving as Timekeeper for the 36th America’s Cup in Auckland this March.
Time+Tide
Just when we had finally sussed out the design language of Moser they have another ace up their sleeve and it seems to be a very big sleeve indeed. The H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph still feels new, even after being out for almost a year and, with its timeless vibe, I suspect that’ll … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph refuses to play by the rules appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Revolution talks with Marc Menant, brand ambassador for Piaget, as he discusses the complete legacy that empowers and makes the award-winning Altiplano Ultimate Concept a reality, and also how it developed from a prototype to a fully customizable version for yearly production.
Revolution
Wei Koh walks us through the incredible journey of Piaget’s strive for thinness, that all started with their thinnest movement at the time, the calibre 9P and now a whole watch that matches that thickness, the stunning Altiplano Ultimate Concept.
SJX Watches
Legendary for being the first man to reach the North Pole solo, Naomi Uemura (1941-1984) was an explorer who notched up several expeditionary feats before disappearing in 1984. Amongst his achievements was a solo, sled-dog run from Greenland to Alaska in 1976 – a two-year, 12,500 km journey – in preparation for climbing Vinson Massif, Antarctica’s highest peak. It was on this trip that Uemura wore a Seiko ref. 6105, the “turtle” diver launched in 1970 that has since become one of Seiko’s best known dive watches thanks to the distinctive case shape. Uemura disappeared in winter 1984 whilst descending the Denali – after successfully reaching the peak – never to be seen again. February 2020 would be his 80th birthday had he lived. To commemorate his life, Seiko has introduced the Prospex The 1970’s Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation modelled on the ref. 6105 worn by Uemura and available in two variants, the limited-edition SLA049 and the regular-production SLA051. The Seiko ref. 6105 of 1970 worn by Uemura during his 1976 solo sled-dog run Initial thoughts Seiko loves limited editions – a trio of Prospex models for its 140th anniversary was just announced – and the limited editions are often facelifts of existing models. To an extent, that remains true. The new SLA049 looks very similar to the SPB183 – nicknamed the “Captain Willard” by enthusiasts after the character who wore on in Apocalypse Now – that was released late last year. Like the...
SJX Watches
Twenty twenty-one is a celebratory year for Seiko, which marks its 140th anniversary. Amongst the slew of watches launched for the occasion is the posh but stealth Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Seiko 140th Anniversary (SLGH007). Cased in platinum and equipped with new 9SA5 movement, this is one of two platinum watches commissioned for the occasion, but unlike the Masterpiece Spring Drive 8 Days that’s extravagantly set with diamonds and garnets, the SLGH007 is discreet, and even slightly intriguing with its tree ring-patterned dial. Initial thoughts Translating local flora and fauna into dial designs is a Grand Seiko specialty – which it named “The Nature of Time” – typically in the form of a stamped, patterned dial inspired by nature around its factories. But despite being one of many inspired by similar themes, the SLGH007 manages to stand out. The pronounced grain on the dial is not only new, but also diverges from the usual styling. Most patterned Grand Seiko dials rely on repeating patterns on a smaller scale, while the tree-ring dial has large, obvious figuring that forms a distinct landscape. And its charcoal-black finish makes it even more special – standing in contrast to the brighter colours Grand Seiko now favours – especially when matched with the platinum case. The result is a watch that’s low-key but stylish, and reminds me of the similarly-dressed Lange 1 “Darth”. The SLGH007 also has solid mechanics: it’s the fourth Grand Seiko to...
Time+Tide
Initially, the idea of robots taking over the earth doesn’t sound too promising. But if the aforementioned robots happened to be Daft Punk it probably would be quite agreeable with lots of euphoric melodies and filter disco sounds yoked together with a sci-fi aesthetic. But that’s not going to happen now. This week Thomas Bangalter … ContinuedThe post 6 watches Daft Punk might have been wearing when they self destructed this week (SOB) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
One of the upsides of a pretty challenging 2020 was that while it reinforced the tyranny of distance we feel from the industry we’re a part of (international flights, cancelled), oddly enough it also brought us closer than we’ve ever been to overseas friends, industry leaders and freelancers. Personally, I’ve never spoken to more CEOs … ContinuedThe post We have some new team members we’d like you to meet, our US Editor and Independents Editor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
After spending an afternoon fitting her bracelet watches into Watchpod's cases and playing with the company's display stand, Elizabeth Doerr quickly went from skeptic to fan and thinks that the brand's products offer exceptional value for money.
Time+Tide
It’s a fitting time to publish our first ever Female Wind Down, in place of the usual Friday Wind Down. New websites are launching, collectives are forming and congregating on Instagram and Clubhouse, and the noise level questioning many of the fundamental tenets of the watch industry – stemming from the one that designates it … ContinuedThe post FEMALE WIND DOWN: That is not a typo, this is not a test. 5 new ways women can get into watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Sometimes it’s risky to change a model. Especially when it’s drastic changes. I think the risk pays off in this instance. With that said, there was something that dug at my mind...
Time+Tide
The watch industry’s persistent categorising of watches by gender is back on the agenda. And well and truly in frame is the pointlessness of the “women’s watch” category. But, speaking personally here, I’m not one to let a category push me around. I really don’t count labelling for men and women as being told what … ContinuedThe post Women do not need permission to buy men’s watches, so who cares about the category? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
An independent watchmaker exemplified by chronometric complications and movement decoration, Greubel Forsey has created its own distinctive style that mixes classical finishing and ideas with contemporary design, giving it a unique position in the landscape. The brand is best known for its elaborate tourbillons, but it also offers practical, everyday complications, albeit combined with tourbillons. Now, for the 10th anniversary of its first GMT model, Greubel Forsey has unleashed the GMT Quadruple Tourbillon in titanium. Likely the most complex GMT watch on the market, it’s regulated by twin double-axis tourbillons, while conveniently telling the time in two time zones and also around the world with a rotating globe. Originally launched in white gold, it’s now in titanium, match with a restrained blue-and-grey palette. Initial thoughts Greubel Forsey’s GMT complication can be found in a surprisingly broad range of watches, from old-school complications with traditional aesthetics to a modern sports watch, but it is always paired with a tourbillon. A second time zone function is elementary next to a tourbillon, but by combining the two, Greubel Forsey raises the bar for a dual-time watch – in both technical accomplishment and price. The GMT Quadruple Tourbillon is perhaps the most technically impressive and meticulously finished travel-time watch – and the new titanium-and-blue version looks magnificent. In fact, I am convinced that the latest version of the G...
Revolution
With new shades of blue and some aesthetic rework of the case and dial, the astounding piece offers a more sporty and relaxed flair.
Deployant
Greubel Forsey's super complicated, ultra high end GMT Quadruple Tourbillon just got extended with a new model in a titanium case.
SJX Watches
Having first unveiled one set with diamonds and blue sapphires last year – that no doubt sold out briskly – Grand Seiko has just announced the Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive 8 Day Jewelry Watch 140th Anniversary (ref. SBGD207). This is similar to last year’s model – a Grand Seiko Spring Drive 8 Day with the dial, flange, and crown set with diamonds and garnets – combining the refined, artisanal movement finishing of the Micro Artist Studio with lavish gem-setting. Initial thoughts Last year’s sapphire-set 8 Day watch was impressive and truly special, being the first highly-jewelled, mechanical men’s watch from Seiko (or Grand Seiko) in two or three decades. The new SBGD207 in green is equally impressive, though it does reduce the unique nature of the original. Being a variant of the Spring Drive 8 Day, the SBGD207 will wear much like the standard model, which is extremely hefty and large for a Grand Seiko, and slightly top heavy on the wrist. The mass of the watch probably works better with the lavish gemstone setting, making the sparkle as over the top as the size. And because the SBGD207 has a green mother of pearl dial, it probably has more flash than last year’s model that had a grained, silvery dial finish. And the movement will be equally refined, having all the hand-finished intricacy of the 9R01 in the standard model. Though finely decorated, the movement lacks visual detail, because almost all of it is hidden under a single, massive barrel b...
SJX Watches
Perhaps the most widely leaked recent launch, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705” is a remake of the uncommon, ceramic-case Fliegerchronograph of 1994. Available only online via IWC’s web store, the Tribute to 3705 reproduces the look of the original, but in a larger case made of Ceratanium, essentially a titanium-ceramic composite. And the movement is the in-house cal. 69380. Initial thoughts Possessing the clear, functional style of IWC’s first-generation pilot’s watches, the original 3705 was a good looking watch. Being a pretty faithful remake, the Tribute to 3705 is almost as attractive. A little of the original’s proportions have been lost – the hour hand on the remake looks a bit short – but the Tribute to 3705 is appealing. And it’s also an upgrade with the new case material as well as the in-house movement, which enhances the appeal. It is, however, expensive at US$11,900. That’s 20% more pricey than the Top Gun “SFTI” chronograph, which has a ceramic case and the same movement. No doubt conceived to capitalise on desirability of the original 3705 – an example once owned by former IWC chief executive Gunter Blumlein sold for a little under US$54,000 in 2018 – the Tribute to 3705 will be sold exclusively online via IWC.com. That makes the project feel a little opportunistic, since it means IWC will retain almost all of the margin on the watch, instead of having to split it with a third-party retailer or even a...
Revolution
For a deep dive into Grand Seiko’s evolution and philosophy, click here.
Time+Tide
Johnny Dowell, a.k.a King Nerd – who was one of our Londoners featured recently in a series by European Editor Mike Christensen – is a watch customizer with a very sharp point of difference. He is an engraver, and applies his craft to watches, among other things – it’s a world of traditional craftsmanship you wouldn’t … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A duo of disruptors mount up in the King Nerd x G-Shock GM-6900GKING-9ER appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
IWC’s New Fliegerchronograph takes inspiration from the Iconic “Black Flieger” from the mid-1990’s, but upgrades the ceramic case to groundbreaking Ceratanium, and an in-house movement.
Revolution
Grand Seiko brings their ground breaking caliber 9SA5 to two more watches with superb dials within the Heritage Collection Series 9: SLGH005 & SLGH007
Revolution
Revolution
Time+Tide
Rolex bracelets are some of the best in the business and the Oyster bracelet with Glidelock on the ref. 114060 Rolex Submariner (featured below in other guises) is a prime example of their incredible construction and fit. But sometimes it is nice to switch things up, especially if you do not have a box full … ContinuedThe post 1 Watch 5 Ways: The Rolex Submariner on rubber, leather and NATO straps appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
If the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève awards the horological Oscars, then the more cerebral Prix Gaïa might be considered the horological Nobel Prize. Here, Elizabeth Doerr shares the interesting laureates announced in 2020.
Time+Tide
Heritage is the key buzzword when it comes to watches right now. With many consumers enamored with timepieces of the past, it’s a no-brainer for manufacturers to revive coveted designs and give buyers a chance to acquire new watches inspired by the references of yesteryear. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705” is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
One of the biggest complaints about the Grand Seiko ‘Four Seasons’ collection had nothing to do with the watches themselves, but the fact that they were only available to the US market. Their nature-inspired dials were lauded for their colour and texture, making the international market envious of what was available in the States. Today … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection goes global appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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