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Hodinkee

Hodinkee

New York, USA  ·  Est. 2008  ·  Collector culture, references, exclusives, luxury
Hodinkee is arguably the most influential watch publication of the digital era. Founded in New York, it transformed watch journalism by bringing a sleek, magazine-quality aesthetic to the web. Known for exclusive interviews, rare reference guides, and setting the agenda for collector culture, Hodinkee helped bring watch enthusiasm to a new generation of readers.
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7,205 articles  ·  Page 1 of 241
Dispatch: A Long Layover In Newport For The Audrain Concours d'Elegance Hodinkee
Ming late September/early October 2 days ago

Dispatch: A Long Layover In Newport For The Audrain Concours d'Elegance

Newport was always an enigma to me. For years, I heard tales of beautiful mansions, streets of opulence, centuries of history, a very endearing grass tennis court, a music festival, and, well, sailing. Yet despite living in New York City for over a decade, I'd never made the trip up I-95 (or the Northeast Corridor line) to see this historic town. So when the invitation came from A. Lange & Söhne to join them at the Audrain Concours d'Elegance, I leaped at the opportunity. I was excited to experience the car show, but I was equally excited to see the backdrop. The history is everywhere the moment you enter Newport, and the town offers so much that it's worth the trip regardless. Audrain just sweetens the deal. The timing, late September/early October, is smart. It's just at the tail end of the season, so you still get those beautiful summer sunsets and light, but the crowds have lessened. I think these picks would hold true if you were in town for the Newport Folk Festival, attending the International Tennis Hall of Fame Induction ceremony, or just spending a long weekend here, but if watches (and cars) are your thing, there's no better place to be than Newport. With The Long Layover, I'll look at events and cities around the world and give a 24- to 72-hour watch (or watch-adjacent) guide to each. The idea is to paint a picture of the city and help contextualize the watches, or, in this case, the event. First up is Audrain Newport Concours & Motor Week. The cars might be t...

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Bring a Loupe: A Calabrese Baladin, A Royce Professional Marine, A Universal Genève Jump Hour Regulator, And A BWC Chronograph Hodinkee
Ulysse Nardin passed 2 days ago

Bring a Loupe: A Calabrese Baladin, A Royce Professional Marine, A Universal Genève Jump Hour Regulator, And A BWC Chronograph

Happy Halloween to everyone, and welcome to another Friday. I know there's big, important events going on all over the world—protests in France, elections in Serbia, Brazil, and Israel (and, next week, the US)—but I'm writing this before the outcome of the World Series has been decided, and as a hardcore midwesterner, that's really all I seem capable of focusing on. I hope whatever's snagged your attention is equally riveting. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Ulysse Nardin passed at auction and is now available direct from the auction house for €12,000. The Certina DS-3 and the Svend Andersen World Time both sell tomorrow, and the Eterna Majtek remains available, with a slight drop in the price. Strays Photo courtesy of Invaluable. If that LIP Mach 2000 caught your eye a few weeks back but you'd like a non-chrono version, here's a gray time-only one. Here's a Zodiac 2547N—the 'poor man's Heuer Carrera'—and if you'd prefer more funk, here's an exotic Sea Wolf Zodiac 722-946 on its original bracelet. Hess Fine Art not only has a fresh-to-market Paul Newman 6239 in its upcoming auction, but also this extremely uncommon Abercrombie and Fitch Rolex Oyster from 1927/28, and if that very old Rolex isn't quite for you, there's always this Rolco (Rolex Company) Oyster instead. This impeccable Movado will be an absolute steal if it stays within its estimate, and from the same auction, this Mathey Tissot triple calendar moonphase in 14k could be a great get, as could thi...

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Introducing: The Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur Antérieur Hodinkee
Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur 2 days ago

Introducing: The Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur Antérieur

What We Know Steampunk and industrial-inspired watches are definitely seeing an uptick in certain collecting circles right now. Look no further than the dramatic rise in, and recent secondary-market sale prices for, Ōtsuka Lōtec pieces from Japan. But when it comes to steampunk retro-futurist horology, Vianney Halter is undoubtedly the pioneer and O.G. Halter's original Antiqua, a perpetual calendar conceived with American graphic designer Jeff Barnes and introduced to the public in 1998, is an immensely important work in the history of modern independents. Through influences including science fiction - films, TV, and literature - and most notably the French writer Jules Verne, Halter established his own unique design codes in a collection of timepieces that came to be called "Futur Antérieur” - the French tense for 'what will have happened' or, rather, looking forward while drawing on aesthetics and industrial designs of the past. Still ensconced in his Swiss atelier, the French-born Halter continues to produce extraordinary watches under his own name, but has also been particularly active in collaborating with a host of brands and fellow watchmakers in recent years. From Massena LAB, Behrens to Canadian independent jeweler and gemologist Alexandre Beauregard, and in September with the Geneva Watch Days show-stopping Bulgari Dual Time Octo Finissimo, Halter has lent his skills and unmistakable design language to a series of successful team-ups. An original Antiqua pe...

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In Partnership - Dialed In: Seiko Green Alpinist GMT Goes Global Hodinkee
Seiko Green Alpinist GMT Goes 3 days ago

In Partnership - Dialed In: Seiko Green Alpinist GMT Goes Global

When Seiko introduced its first dedicated sports watch, the Laurel Alpinist, in 1959, it was designed to provide reliable, legible timekeeping for outdoor enthusiasts amid Japan's postwar boom in activities such as hiking and skiing. The name "Laurel" paid homage to Seiko's first wristwatch, produced in Japan in 1913. Built to withstand harsh outdoor conditions, the watch featured an airtight screw-down case back to keep out dust and sand, wedge-shaped indices at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock for legibility, a 17-jewel hand-wound movement, and a leather strap pad to protect the case from sweat. In 1995, Seiko expanded the Alpinist's capabilities with an inner rotating compass ring, controlled by a second crown at four o'clock. Wearers could use the hour hand and the sun to determine cardinal directions, aligning the "S" marker halfway between the hour hand and 12 o'clock. The updated model also offered 20-bar water resistance, reinforcing its role as a robust field watch built for demanding use. Several design details introduced with the 1995 model remain central to the Alpinist today. Although it was offered in several dial colors, the distinctive green version became a lasting favorite. Green was an unconventional choice at the time, and Seiko initially expected the color to struggle commercially. Seiko introduced mechanical GMT models in 2023. While the blue and black versions (SPB377 and SPB379) launched globally, the coveted sunray green dial version was initially reserved ...

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Introducing: Habring² and SJX Watches Chrono Felix Perpetual “Star” Hodinkee
Rolex Stelline dials 3 days ago

Introducing: Habring² and SJX Watches Chrono Felix Perpetual “Star”

What We Know Early this year, SJX and Habring released their second collaboration with Habring² for the Chrono-Felix Medicus, which seemed to be an overwhelming success with two variations. Now they're throwing things back to their first release, the Erwin "Star," with a new, more complicated base model. The new Habring² and SJX Watches Chrono Felix Perpetual "Star" uses a relatively new (for Habring) movement design of a monopusher chronograph and a Dubois-Depraz perpetual calendar module to make a watch that's still a great value for how complicated it is. The watch is very obviously inspired by vintage "Galaxy" style watches, like the famous Rolex Stelline dials that fetch incredible prices. The watch uses a black glossy lacquer dial with matte black subdials (with a concentric snailed finish). The dial features eight applied gold-plated star indices, matching hands, and even a gold-plated moonphase to match the entire design. Various other indices (especially for the calendar) are also printed in gold. The case is made in stainless steel, 38.5mm by 13mm, with a mix of brushing and polishing. The triple-stepped bezel helps mask the calendar module while housing the adjustment pushers along the edge. The manually wound movement runs at 4Hz and offers a 48-hour power reserve. The base is that Habring² A11 chronograph base, visible through a display caseback. The finishing of the levers (straight graining on the top and polishing on the bevels) was done in Germany by th...

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Hands-On: The Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo Hodinkee
Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo 4 days ago

Hands-On: The Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo

"The first two days, almost nobody came to see us. We were very anxious," Carlo Crocco, the founder of Hublot, tells us, casting his mind back to Baselworld in 1980, when he stood in a booth with a single window displaying a single gold-cased watch on a black rubber strap. "On the third day, we realised that everyone was speaking about us, because it was really something different from all the other watches." We are sitting together in Milan on the eve of the Classic Fusion Tributo launch, which Hublot presents as a return to that very first design. After spending time with it in the metal, I would argue the most interesting thing about it is how firmly it refuses to be a reissue. At a time when brands can reproduce their back catalogues down to a 3D-scanned dial, Hublot has presented an evolved expression of its first watch, combining it with a design language that's taken shape over four decades. That decision makes more sense when you consider where Hublot stands today and why this watch is arriving now. Since Julien Tornare took over as CEO in late 2024, the brand has been working through a deliberate reset, investing in its Nyon campus and its movement strategy and reworking the Big Bang twice this year, with Tornare signaling early on that a Classic Fusion built around the Italian elegance of its founder would follow. The two things Crocco focused on for the Tributo, the twelve screws and the black rubber strap, are precisely what make it read as the original at a gl...

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Photo Report: The Watches And Scenes Of Patek Philippe's 2026 Milan Watch Art Grand Exhibition Hodinkee
Patek Philippe s 2026 Milan Watch 4 days ago

Photo Report: The Watches And Scenes Of Patek Philippe's 2026 Milan Watch Art Grand Exhibition

For a few years, the general date for the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition has been circled on my calendar. Fall 2026—somewhere in there, I'd have to find a way to visit Milan. I had hoped that I would go as part of my job, of course, but after missing the last exhibition in Tokyo, I knew that, even if I had to go on my own, it would be easier to visit Italy, a place that I feel very attached to thanks to the mentorship of the great Italian collectors and dealers. Luckily, a press preview was in the cards, and now that the event is wrapped up (it ran from October 2 to the 18th), I wanted to bring the experience to those who couldn't attend.  One of the great parts about the Grand Exhibitions, this one being the seventh, is that the brand opens them to the public for free, bringing the history and savoir-faire of watchmaking to a new market at each show. While those of us in the industry get to see things like enameling demonstrations or movement construction as part of our jobs, the Watch Art Grand Exhibition brings that to life for those who aren't as lucky. More than that, Patek Philippe goes so far as to organize school trips from the local market, helping bring the craft to life for children. Patek Philippe's President Thierry Stern and his 24-year-old son Adrien Stern, who has worked at the company for 18 months and was touted (multiple times) by Thierry Stern as his successor alongside his youngest son. Stern repeatedly emphasized that Patek Philippe woul...

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The Business of Watches Podcast: TanTan Wang And Griffin Bartsch On New York Watch Week And What It Says About The Market Hodinkee
4 days ago

The Business of Watches Podcast: TanTan Wang And Griffin Bartsch On New York Watch Week And What It Says About The Market

This week on The Business of Watches, we regroup and recap New York Watch Week. From INDIES.NYC to the FHH Forum to WatchTime and Windup NYC, Griffin Bartsch and TanTan Wang hit the highs and lows of what is now considered the premier calendar week event in the U.S. watch world. The U.S. market's rapid rise to top dog among timepiece destinations is confirmed: Switzerland imported more than CHF 4.3 billion worth of watches in 2025, accounting for 17% of overall Swiss watch exports. It's an increase driven by a surge in enthusiasm and interest in the post-pandemic era. Image courtesy Windup Watch Fair NYC But is the growth sustainable, and is the industry catering enough to American tastes and needs? Is the U.S. market strength a fleeting diversion, or is it in it for the long haul? Hodinkee editors Griffin and TanTan join us on the podcast to weigh in on the products and activations conjured by some of the world's biggest watch brands in the largest market for luxury and premium timepieces. Who's getting it right and who's missing the boat? What should brands do to win the hearts and minds of U.S. watch consumers in 2026 and beyond?  Image courtesy WatchTime The Autodromo Group C Turbo Sport. There's plenty of watch business and strategy to discuss, and we hope you enjoy the conversation. Please leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an episode? This show is published to the original H...

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Photo Report: A. Lange & Söhne Brings A Glimpse Of History to New York City Hodinkee
Ming age doesn't end 5 days ago

Photo Report: A. Lange & Söhne Brings A Glimpse Of History to New York City

I'm not the biggest birthday person. I largely subscribe to Patton Oswalt's take that, once you're past about 21, if your oncoming age doesn't end in a '0' (or maybe a '5,' but even that's a stretch), you can largely skip the celebrations and fuss. That said, I'm always willing to make an exception, and when I learned that A. Lange & Söhne — truly and unreservedly one of my favorite watch brands of all time — was coming to New York City to celebrate its birthday weekend this year, I was excited. Walter Lange, Günther Blümlein, and Hartmut Knothe at the 1994 launch of the Lange 1, Saxonia, Arkade, and Tourbillon "Pour le Mérite." Image, courtesy A. Lange & Söhne. It turns out my excitement was well rewarded: not only did the brand drop what may immediately be my favorite release of 2026, a new Datograph Perpetual, but they also put together a retrospective exhibit that would have thrilled any Lange fan. They even managed to track down the exact same Soviet-era stacking chairs. These few had to be shipped from Poland, but it was worth getting it right for the photo op. With a collection that featured everything from antique Lange pocket watches — produced before the company was subsumed by the German state in anticipation of the Second World War — to highly technical modern offerings from the brand, this display, which was hosted in the William Ziegler Mansion (better known today as the Academy Mansion), just a stone's throw from both Central Park and the A. Lan...

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Hands-On: The Alto ART 02 Hodinkee
Cartier 5 days ago

Hands-On: The Alto ART 02

Only a few degrees of separation separate the worlds of watches and cars. A passion for vintage motorsports first brought together Alto founder Thibaud Guittard and Raphaël Abeillon, now the brand's creative director, who spent a decade designing watches at Cartier. Contemporary art is perhaps slightly more removed from watches, but it's an inspiration and theme that has run through most of Alto's early pieces, particularly the limited-edition collaboration of its ART 01 with renowned French sculptor Bernar Vernet. Now Alto is going (just) a touch more mainstream and slightly less avant-garde with the launch of its ART 02, an important piece for the nascent marque that heralds the first watch in its permanent collection. The ART 02 continues the themes and design of the ART 01while refining and updating the original piece at a more approachable price. Available in an initial run of about 150 pieces in Grade 5 Titanium with a new matching bracelet, the watch signals that Alto is ready to play in the big show, and it debuted at Geneva Watch Days 2026 alongside more than 70 other brands. It was my favorite new watch of the show.  It's damn hard to stand out in the crowded integrated-bracelet sports watch category, but Alto has done this from the start and has furthered its distinctive design elements in the ART 02. Almost no one presents a faceted sapphire glass like Alto does. Severe angles and beveled edges make the crystal a standout feature for the Alto 02. There isn't ...

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In Partnership - Dialed In: Swiss-Made, Mid-Century Inspired: Meet the Fossil Signature CS-1 Hodinkee
Hamilton Elgin 5 days ago

In Partnership - Dialed In: Swiss-Made, Mid-Century Inspired: Meet the Fossil Signature CS-1

Few brands have done more for American watch culture than Fossil. That may seem like a bold claim, but hear us out. When they launched in Texas in 1984, American watchmaking had all but vanished. The big names like Hamilton, Elgin, and Waltham had either moved to Switzerland or shut down entirely, and the quartz crisis had permanently changed the landscape. Then, this little company came along and showed a whole generation of Americans that watches can be affordable, fun, and highly collectible. Each watch came in a decorative, themed tin, and the designs leaned into a retro Americana vibe. For many of us, a Fossil was the first watch we actually picked out for ourselves. Now in 2026, Fossil begins a fresh chapter with their new collection of thoughtful and restrained designs, aimed at reintroducing Swiss watchmaking to the brand. Say hello to the Fossil Signature CS-1 collection. It consists of two brand new references inspired by the famous Case Study Houses, the experimental architecture program that ran in California from 1945 to 1966. It gave us icons like the Eames House and the Stahl House, both of which have become recognizable landmarks in Los Angeles. Those homes were built around simple materials, open floorplans, and the idea that good design should be accessible and not exclusive. It's a fitting reference point for Fossil. The CS-1 collection builds upon the key ideas of mid-century modern aesthetics while developing a cohesive design language all its own. Fir...

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Introducing: WM Brown x Timex Hodinkee
Timex What We Know Matt 5 days ago

Introducing: WM Brown x Timex

What We Know Matt Hranek, founder of WM Brown and author of A Man & His Watch, has collaborated with Timex for the first time on a dress watch. Designed exclusively for WM Brown, it is a tank-shaped steel watch with a light grey dial and a quartz movement. The stainless steel case measures 26.5 x 41.3mm with a 20mm lug width. The top is vertically brushed, the sides are horizontally brushed, with a polished diamond-cut edge and sharply inclined lugs. The light grey dial has a two-hand layout with small seconds at six o'clock (with a subtle WM Brown logo) and full Arabic numerals. The WM Brown wordmark sits at the bottom of the dial alongside the Timex branding. It is powered by a Miyota 1L40 quartz movement and has a mineral glass lens, a customized case back and 50 meters of water resistance. The watch comes as a gift set with two options: a brown leather strap with a stainless steel buckle and a stainless steel bracelet with a butterfly deployant clasp. The WM Brown x Timex gift set costs $349 and includes both the bracelet and strap. It is available now through Timex and WM Brown. What We Think A WM Brown and Timex collaboration feels so right. Hranek and Timex went with something a little more refined and dressy, and I think it works. The color scheme typically used in the WM Brown logo has been replaced with a monochromatic logo that integrates subtly into the dial. The dress-watch foundation suits the partnership, and the design feels as seamless as the collaboration...

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Hands-On: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Calendar - With Diamonds And A Bracelet Hodinkee
Brew ers playing old-school small 6 days ago

Hands-On: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Calendar - With Diamonds And A Bracelet

"If you build it, they will come." It's the age-old quote about watchmaking, wrapped somewhat curiously in a sentimental movie about baseball, if I'm interpreting things right. A. Lange & Söhne is finally having its overdue moment among collectors for doing what it's always done: making beautiful, mechanically impressive watches with a more traditional, high-touch approach. Sticking with the baseball analogy, it's the Milwaukee Brewers playing old-school small ball and getting into the World Series. Nostalgia hits hard, and the one constant through all the years, Ray, has been watchmaking—or something like that. And yet, when you get down to it, something has been missing from the Lange lineup—a gap for true deep-cut collectors who begged for a certain something that disappeared from the catalog in the late 2000s. People yearned for bracelets, with the word Wellendorff hanging in the air long after the brand ended its partnership with the Pforzheim jewelry maker. When the Lange-loving Hodinkee team saw the new Datograph Perpetual on bracelet, in all its heavy glory, it was an impressive culmination of past and present. "It reminds of us of all that once was good and it could be again." “Wellendorff” Bracelets and the Secondary Market I was recently reminded that my first experience with an A. Lange & Söhne was one on a Wellendorff bracelet. I was attending a local RedBar meet-up when a noted collector of the brand walked up wearing a Datograph Perpetual in platin...

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Business News: Audemars Piguet Unveils 'The Watch Keepers' - A Digital Platform Offering Certified Pre-Owned Watches Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Unveils 6 days ago

Business News: Audemars Piguet Unveils 'The Watch Keepers' - A Digital Platform Offering Certified Pre-Owned Watches

Audemars Piguet, best known for its Royal Oak model, is starting its long-anticipated certified pre-owned watch service program, launching a digital platform called 'The Watch Keepers' that will bring together buyers and sellers of the Swiss brand's watches inspected and guaranteed by the company's in-house experts.  Images courtesy Audemars Piguet Designed as a digital marketplace, the program will roll out in Switzerland and Europe starting today and will facilitate sales of pre-owned Audemars Piguet watches at least two years old. Approved sellers will securely ship watches to the brand, where Audemars Piguet will examine and certify them as genuine and authentic. The brand will then photograph the watches, document them with listing details, and list them for sale at a set price or via bidding on The Watch Keepers platform, offering them to potential approved buyers using the service. Audemars Piguet will hold and store the watches until they sell and will facilitate delivery to buyers, who will receive a two-year functioning service guarantee on timepieces purchased on the platform. However, the seller will remain the owner of the watches until they are sold and delivered to a new owner. The launch of the Audemars Piguet CPO program marks a significant expansion of the brand's sales channels, as it already sells most of its new watches through company-owned boutiques. It also further legitimizes the secondary, or pre-owned, watch market and follows Rolex's entry into...

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Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual In Platinum With Bracelet (Live Pics) Hodinkee
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 24, 2026

Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual In Platinum With Bracelet (Live Pics)

What We Know Happy birthday, A. Lange & Söhne. It’s October 24th, which marks another anniversary since the name was revived in Glashütte watchmaking in 1994. For the past few years, the brand has often used this milestone day to release a heavy hitter or two—the 30th-anniversary Lange 1s and the second-generation Zeitwerk come to mind. Today, Lange is dropping something absolutely nuts—a 50-piece limited edition of the Datograph Perpetual in platinum, with a diamond-baguette-adorned dial and a platinum bracelet. Yes, that’s right. Odysseus aside, this is A. Lange & Söhne's first commercially available watch with a bracelet since the long-gone Wellendorf days. And boy, is it a doozy. The dial retains the familiar layout seen in past iterations of the Datograph Perpetual, with the oversized date window at twelve o’clock, the two offset subdials below, and a moonphase at six o’clock.  The subdials, which convey both information for the chronograph and the calendar complications, feature two small interruptions (subdials on top of subdials, basically) by way of a day/night indicator and the perpetual calendar’s leap year pointer. Aside from those two elements, the month, day of the week, running seconds, and thirty-minute counter are all contained within these two areas.  What immediately stands out (and even more so in person) is a big twist that feels quite different from typical Lange—baguette-cut diamonds are used in place of baton indices for the hou...

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Introducing: Clemence Photic MKII Swiss Edition (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Oct 23, 2026

Introducing: Clemence Photic MKII Swiss Edition (Live Pics)

What We Know Clemence, the English microbrand, has launched a new limited-edition take on its incredibly good (and deservedly popular) Photic dive watch. The main difference between the new LE and the standard Photic MKII diver (which Jason Heaton spent time with earlier this year) is that it uses a Swiss Soprod M100 movement instead of the Miyota movements Clemence has used previously. While the new Clemence is largely identical to its non-limited-edition sibling, other changes include a fully luminous bezel with a numbered layout and a new color Clemence calls “Atoll Blue.” Clemence is deservedly known for its excellent use of color, and the addition of a new color to that palette is notable for a brand that has been deliberate in its rollout of new models. Like the Photic MKII, this new watch measures 38.5mm across (though the overhanging bezel measures closer to 39mm) and is about 46.5mm lug-to-lug. It’s also thin, at just 10.5mm thick (the switch to the Soprod movement hasn’t led to any dimensional changes). The watch comes on a three-link bracelet, features a micro-adjust in the clasp, and the Soprod M100 movement is regulated to tremendous accuracy (+/- 4 seconds a day). The Photic MKII Swiss Edition is priced at £949—or about $1,275—so it commands a slight premium of £599 (about £350) over the standard Photic. The Photic MKII Swiss Edition is limited to 25 pieces. What We Think Do I even have to say it? I absolutely adore this watch. The Clemence Pho...

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Auctions: Monaco Legend Group's Fall Auction Is A Return To The Classics Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Triple Calendar Moon Phase Oct 23, 2026

Auctions: Monaco Legend Group's Fall Auction Is A Return To The Classics

We're back in the saddle again, riding the bucking bronco that is the auction market. But as a salve to the wounds of the usual suspects of whatever the market is hyped on these days, today we're looking at the Monaco Legend Auction catalog, which takes place October 31 and November 1 in—you guessed it—Monaco. I won't be there this time (though I am hoping to return in the future), but here's my view from afar. I haven't seen any watches in person, so I won't go into depth on quality—do your own research—but hopefully this gives you a jumping-off point. The Top Lots Lot 50, Rolex ref. 6062, with an estimate of €1,000,000 to €2,000,000 As I like to do, I feel like I have to acknowledge some of the top lots. The auction feels more like a return to Monaco Legend's older catalog, where much of it is super rare, but it's not the loud, flashy stuff you'd find elsewhere. But to have your top watch be a very, very clean Rolex ref. 6062 in steel, carrying an estimate of €1,000,000 to €2,000,000, is a massive flex. The watch comes from the collection of Auro Montanari and, frankly, the estimate may be a bit conservative. Watches like this, especially in this condition, are rare, and the buyer pool is also thin. The watch could go for triple the low estimate without surprising me, as long as the right buyers don't already have one. Lot 208, Audemars Piguet Triple Calendar Moon Phase, estimate € 200,000 –⁠ 400,000. Lot 181, Patek Philippe ref. 3974, estimate € ...

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Business News: LVMH-Owned Zenith Is Restructuring In Major Reset As Brand Plans Job Cuts And Production Drop In Shift To High-End Market Hodinkee
Zenith Oct 23, 2026

Business News: LVMH-Owned Zenith Is Restructuring In Major Reset As Brand Plans Job Cuts And Production Drop In Shift To High-End Market

Zenith, the storied Swiss brand founded more than a century ago and known for its El Primero high-beat chronograph movement, will undergo major restructuring, forcing the LVMH-owned company to significantly reduce its workforce and scale back production and distribution, with plans to reposition the marque as a high-horology, low-volume watchmaker.  The Zenith overhaul follows years of financial losses by the brand, founded by Georges Favre-Jacot in Le Locle, Switzerland, in 1865. Chief Executive Officer Benoit De Clerck addressed employees at the company's headquarters this week, announcing the restructuring and warning that the company could eliminate as many as 100 jobs, or about half the workforce at the manufacture. To complete the reorganization and reposition the brand by 2029, the company may also eliminate another 100 positions, including the watch brand's entire international team. A Zenith watchmaker.  Management and executives are now in a formal "consultation process" with employees over the next three weeks to negotiate the terms of the restructuring and job cuts. Unia, the Swiss employees' trade union representing workers at the manufacturer, will meet with employees next week and join management in the consultation process, according to people familiar with the matter who spoke on condition of anonymity because they were not permitted to comment publicly.  "We confirm that a staff consultation process was initiated today [Thursday] concerning a proposed ...

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Bring a Loupe: A Certina DS-3 Super PH1000M, A Ulysse Nardin 'Big Aviator' Pilot's Watch, An Eterna "Majetek," And Much More Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Oct 23, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Certina DS-3 Super PH1000M, A Ulysse Nardin 'Big Aviator' Pilot's Watch, An Eterna "Majetek," And Much More

There's no way to keep up, Baller. It's true. There's too much to do and too little time, and somehow it's another Friday, and before we relax together and look at some interesting watches available over the next week, let's take some comfort in the fact that, here in the States, two small-market teams are squaring off in the World Series. Incredibly, the Brewers ranked 19th in total payroll for 2026, while the Rays ranked 25th. I bring this up only to note that anything is possible, and huge congrats to fans of both teams. Sure seems like it's gonna be an amazing series. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Boucheron remains available, the Breguet sells today, the IWC Aquatimer passed at auction, and the LIP Paul Newman sold for €820. Strays Photo courtesy of Drouot. Mr Clymer, Mr Wind, and Mr Dunne raised a good point that Jaeger-LeCoultre is still underrated, and while this one's unlikely to be a $1M watch, I can think of a few DuoPlans that look more fetching. For those still seeking a slightly under-the-radar integrated-bracelet sport watch from the 70s and 80s, may I present this Omega 'Alveoles.' Here's a vintage anonymous beauty with an 18k gold case and running seconds at the top rather than the bottom of the dial, and, from the same auction, if there's a better-looking vintage regulator than this Eterna on auction anywhere in the coming week, I haven't seen it. Certina DS-3 Super PH1000M Photo courtesy of The Saleroom. The upcoming Dr Crott auction goes down on ...

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Interview: Eivind “Edthezilla” Németh And The Journey To A Rexhep Rexhepi Hodinkee
Rexhep Rexhepi Oct 23, 2026

Interview: Eivind “Edthezilla” Németh And The Journey To A Rexhep Rexhepi

The online watch community is a wondrous place. These days, social media like Instagram seems to bring together enthusiasts and collectors from all corners of the Earth, pulling them together in a little internet hub that somehow makes this already small, niche world even smaller. Sometimes, you’ll find yourselves chatting with and connecting with many people for many years, despite having never met them in person. Eivind Németh, or better known as @Edthezilla on Instagram, is one of those people for me. I first connected with him on the platform a few years ago, but to this day, we still haven’t met in person. Yes, we’ve been in many of the same rooms together, commented on each other’s content online, and more. But as fate would have it, a proper chat had never been in store until now. What caught a lot of attention in the online community recently was Németh’s most recent acquisition. A grail amongst grails—the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II. Normally, that would be a dream watch for most collectors. But there was one more twist—Németh would be receiving a piece unique. Like many, it was this moment that made me ask, “Who really is Edthezilla?” So, I reached out to hopefully (and finally) know a bit more about the guy. Here’s what I did know about Németh—he’s a collector from Norway, has been obsessed with Rexhep for longer than most, and has written about watches online for sites like Tidsonnen and Monochrome. Németh might take...

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Hands-On: We Put The Casio G-Shock 2500 Series "CasioNaut" Through Its Paces Hodinkee
Casio G-Shock 2500 Series CasioNaut Oct 22, 2026

Hands-On: We Put The Casio G-Shock 2500 Series "CasioNaut" Through Its Paces

This story has been republished from our friends at Hodinkee Australia. Photos by Georgia Griffiths and Jack Shepherdson. The worst-kept secret in affordable watches is finally out. Casio has just pulled the covers off what might be their most hype-worthy affordable watch since the G-Shock 2100 "CasiOak": the G-Shock 2500 series. We’ve been aware of this watch for a while now, as it was briefly leaked by Casio in Japan - so enthusiasts have already nicknamed it the "CasioNaut" thanks to its Holy Trinity sports watch-evoking case sides. But don’t judge this book by its cover: the 2500 has some tricks up its sleeve, beyond any passing resemblance to a much more expensive mechanical watch. Hodinkee ANZ has had the chance to wear, review, and put this CasioNaut through its paces this month ahead of its official launch, and we’ve got some key insights we’re keen to finally share. So, to start: the 2500 series is a fully analog G-Shock featuring no screens, digital readouts, or Bluetooth connectivity: just a two-handed central time display, a small seconds subdial, and a date display. Prices also start at less than A$300 (not A$100,000+ like the recently-released "Blue Rose Project"!) However, this isn’t just a time-and-date watch. (More on that in a second.) Firstly, it’s fitted with Casio's Shock Release Hand system (that debuted on the GA-V01 in April 2025), which holds the minute hand in place with magnets instead of a conventional mechanical post. Watch hands ar...

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Auctions: Ten Watches I Actually Care About This Fall Auction Season Hodinkee
Casio nal watch buyer So Oct 22, 2026

Auctions: Ten Watches I Actually Care About This Fall Auction Season

If you were in NYC last week for watch week, there was a chance I saw you there. Yes, I actually showed my face in public – and it kinda felt good? Yeah, I think it did. And that got me thinking – what if I actually paid attention to the auctions again, like I used to! Not just from a professional standpoint, but from my perspective as a watch lover and occasional watch buyer. So I opened up some catalogs and started digging – and here are the ten watches I'd actually spend my own money on coming up for sale over the coming weeks – and don't worry, our actual auction savant, Mark, will be here over the next few days to give a much more in-depth take on what's happening this season. 1. The Earliest Known Lange 1, Ever A closed caseback Lange 1, without its caseback, reveals movement number....10. Did I mention it comes with a full set, dated to January of 1995, and with its original sales receipt? Photo courtesy of Auktionen Dr. Crott. Photo courtesy of Auktionen Dr. Crott. Photo courtesy of Auktionen Dr. Crott. You guys know about closed caseback Lange 1s – I love 'em. I've owned 'em. But I've never owned, or even heard of, a Lange 1 this early. Over at Dr. Crott, who also has a great PLM in platinum and from whom I sourced my Steel Lange 1 over ten years ago, and who has a history of great Lange watches – there is a remarkably early L1. How early? Movement number 10. Beyond that, it comes with paperwork dating it to January 1995, and an original handwritten...

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In Partnership - From The Source : Gallet Managing Director Erwan Rossignol On 200 Years Of Adventure Hodinkee
Breitling Oct 22, 2026

In Partnership - From The Source : Gallet Managing Director Erwan Rossignol On 200 Years Of Adventure

Throughout history, there are countless examples of the inherent and primal human desire to explore the unknown. This wanderlust is more than the urge to chart a course to new destinations. It's the instinct to break free from the ordinary, leave the noise behind, and chase what lies beyond. Driven by these aspirations, we've built timepieces ready for wherever adventure calls. It's these same principles that have anchored watchmakers and their designs, which have long served as loyal companions to adventurers on their journeys. Gallet is one such brand with two centuries of history tied to adventure within aviation, motorsport, and yachting. On the monumental year of its 200th anniversary, the brand is in a modern renaissance with new collections manufactured by Breitling that are rooted in this lineage while considering the needs of today's voyagers. These adaptable designs feature interchangeable quick-release straps that allow the watches to evolve with every environment and expedition. We sat down with Gallet Managing Director Erwan Rossignol to discuss the brand's re-emergence amidst its historic anniversary. Hodinkee When you're reintroducing 200 years of history, how do you decide which pieces come back and which stay in the archive? ERWAN It's about finding the right balance between honoring the heritage and staying relevant. We never wanted to become a museum brand. We went into the archives and identified the iconic names: the Flying Officer, the Clamshell, the ...

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Introducing: Breitling Navitimer B09 And B02 Cosmonaute 41mm Chronographs Hodinkee
Breitling Navitimer B09 Oct 22, 2026

Introducing: Breitling Navitimer B09 And B02 Cosmonaute 41mm Chronographs

What We Know In 1952, Breitling released the Navitimer as a tool of necessity for pilots who needed to perform advanced calculations in the cockpit. A decade later, it was adapted for space flight, and the Cosmonaute was born. For many, myself included, this watch is peak, emblematic Breitling, yet until now, the manual-wind versions closest to those originals were mostly limited editions. Now both will join the mainline collection. The Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 and Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute both come in 41mm stainless steel cases with reverse-panda dials, a bidirectional bezel, and a circular slide rule. The B09 is available with a black or blue dial, white rehaut, and subdials, while the Cosmonaute has a black dial with white subdials. Both feature the Twin Jet logo, first introduced in 1957, set in gold, which really pops against the monochromatic dials. The hands, numerals, and indexes are filled with Super-LumiNova. Breitling is well aware of proportions here. It eschews the date window on the B09, and Breitling says that, along with the manual-wind caliber, this gives it a slimmer case profile. Both cases measure 13mm thick and 47 mm lug-to-lug, with a cambered sapphire crystal that is anti-reflective on both sides, a screwed-in sapphire caseback, a non-screw-down crown, and 30 meters of water resistance. Each watch draws on a different chapter of Navitimer history. The B09 is modeled on the 1960s Navitimer worn by Jim Clark and Graham Hill, racing d...

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Just Because: Nine Incredible Watches I Saw Inside The Archives At A. Lange & Söhne HQ Hodinkee
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 21, 2026

Just Because: Nine Incredible Watches I Saw Inside The Archives At A. Lange & Söhne HQ

The small German town of Glashütte is paradise for watch nerds. Some people don’t quite believe how densely packed the watchmaking is in this little town in Saxony, with the biggest German horological names literally next door to each other. But undoubtedly the most iconic name in Glashütte watchmaking (and German high horology in general) is A. Lange & Söhne, and the manufacturer rarely opens its doors to outsiders to take a closer look at what the brand is up to.  Earlier this year, during the rainy month of July, a few of us on the Hodinkee editorial team hopped over to Glashütte to see what was happening within the secretive walls of the Lange, and to say that the visit was unforgettable is surely the understatement of the century. There’s still lots to come from our visit, but one of the best moments of the few days I spent there was, well, looking at watches—very special watches though, pulled from the Lange archives.   The Designs Behind The Revival Kicking it off are three of modern A. Lange & Söhne's inaugural silhouettes in yellow gold, representing the then-new designs unveiled by Günter Blümlein on October 24th, 1994. That day, of course, marked a pivotal moment that not only revived the A. Lange & Söhne name after a long period of dormancy, but also set a new standard for what high-end watchmaking meant in the mid-nineties, especially among its Swiss contemporaries. The Lange 1 could just be the most iconic model from the brand. It’s the onl...

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The Business of Watches Podcast: Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, Founder And Chief Executive Officer Of Fears Hodinkee
Rolex Oct 21, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, Founder And Chief Executive Officer Of Fears

This week on The Business of Watches, we sit down with Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, founder and CEO of Fears Watches, for an in-depth discussion. Nicholas has packed a lot into his 39 years. For the last decade, he's helmed the brand, originally founded in Bristol, England, in 1846 by his great-great-great-grandfather, Edwin Fears.  Incredibly, Bowman-Scargill wasn't even aware of the Fears brand and family connection when he decided to train as a watchmaker at Rolex in the U.K. That move into watches followed an ill-timed foray into investment banking on the eve of the 2008 Global Financial Crisis.  Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the fourth managing director of Fears Watches.  By the time Bowman-Scargill restarted the brand in 2016, it had been dormant for nearly four decades. He says its revival has been an exercise in business challenges, often met by the art of project management, a skill set he and his fellow Brits are uniquely adept at. Fears has now grown to about 15 people and returned to its roots in Bristol. From flirting with bankruptcy to implementing a dress code for employees and overseeing the design and production of a perpetual calendar model, Bowman-Scargill relays the dramatic tale of how the company has survived and thrived in the crowded, competitive arena of mid-tier timepieces.  It's a heck of a story that offers heaps of insight for any watch enthusiast, collector, or small business owner. From what he learned and has applied at Fears from his time at...

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Introducing: The Oris Kelp Forest Limited Edition Hodinkee
Oris Kelp Forest Limited Edition Oct 20, 2026

Introducing: The Oris Kelp Forest Limited Edition

What We Know The idea of a 'Seaweed' dive watch isn't new—in fact, I used to own a diver that carried that nickname from collectors. But today, Oris offers a much more literal take on that idea with the Aquis Date Kelp Forest Limited Edition. No, Oris did not make a dial out of literal kelp. But the overall aesthetic is strongly inspired by underwater nature, thanks to an idea from Francis Pérez, an award-winning underwater photographer and Oris ambassador. © Francis Pérez It's another of Oris's sustainability-focused designs, as the brand continues to raise awareness for various environmental efforts. Think Oris' Bracenet Aquis, with a dial made from melted recycled fishing nets, or its Yangtze Jiangtun Limited Edition introduced this spring. Some of these editions will see a contribution of proceeds to a specific organization. Others, like this Kelp Forest edition, are meant to be conversation starters, giving purpose and meaning to a design beyond purely aesthetic goals. It's something Oris has done for many years, and this one continues that trend. Specifically, the story of this watch focuses on raising awareness of the deforestation of underwater kelp forests—which absorb carbon and provide shelter and food for a wide range of marine wildlife. While most people have probably thought about global overfishing and rising sea temperatures at some point in their lives, I think this issue gets much less talked about, if at all. This marketing story leads to an unsur...

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Happenings: "George Daniels 100" Exhibition To Celebrate The Legendary Watchmaker With Some Of His Rarest Pieces In Singapore Hodinkee
Oct 20, 2026

Happenings: "George Daniels 100" Exhibition To Celebrate The Legendary Watchmaker With Some Of His Rarest Pieces In Singapore

There's no such thing as overdoing the celebration of the impact of George Daniels on the horological landscape, especially in the year that marks the 100th anniversary of his birth. Coinciding with the opening of IAMWATCH in Singapore, a celebration of the modern independent watchmaking scene, a scene that would likely not exist if not for Daniels—Phillips and The Hour Glass are exhibiting 22 of his watches. That list, which hasn't fully been made public, includes—for the first time—reuniting the Space Traveller I and Daniels' personal Space Traveller II. Photo courtesy Phillips and The Hour Glass. The fact that there will be twenty-two of Daniels' watches in one place is even more remarkable considering that, during his lifetime, Daniels alone made only twenty-four pocket watches and two wristwatches (the Spring Case Tourbillon and the Four-Minute Tourbillon) before the Millennium and Anniversary done with Roger W. Smith (not accounting for some other pieces that were made by Smith under Daniels' direction). For acolytes of Daniels, lovers of horology, and people who appreciate once-in-a-lifetime opportunities, the exhibition in Singapore is something you can't miss. Luckily, you'll have at least two chances to see the exhibition. Photo courtesy the George Daniels Educational Trust. For even more context, the Space Traveller and Space Traveller II are particularly important watches in the annals of watchmaking history. Both were made in 1982; the first was made and...

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Introducing: The Timex Intrepid x Dimepiece ‘Blackout’ Edition Hodinkee
Timex Intrepid x Dimepiece ‘Blackout’ Oct 20, 2026

Introducing: The Timex Intrepid x Dimepiece ‘Blackout’ Edition

What We Know More often than not, modern revivals of older watch designs usually come in larger cases than the original. Sometimes, it's because of limitations on which calibers are available today. Other times, it's because of a broader market affinity for larger cases (even if we watch enthusiasts like to imagine otherwise). But with Dimepiece's take on the 1995 Timex Intrepid, that was never going to be the case. Today, Timex introduces the Intrepid x Dimepiece 'Blackout' Edition. It follows last year's successful release between the collaborators—Timex, Brynn Wallner of Dimepiece, and Alan Bedwell of Foundwell—that took the original 46mm case, shrunk it down to 36mm, and simplified the bezel and dial. In a move that largely centers around the idea of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it," this year's version keeps almost everything the same, but with the twist of a black PVD-coated stainless steel case as well as a blacked-out version of the Timex Indiglo branding on the rubber strap. Other specs are identical, including the Indiglo-illuminated cream dial and a slide rule swapped for dive markings on the bezel insert. Purple, in the same hue as the Dimepiece logo, appears on the twelve o'clock marker, the seconds hand, and the nine o'clock Indiglo pusher. The new Timex Intrepid x Dimepiece 'Blackout' Edition is available through Timex, Dimepiece, and select retailers, and priced at $269. What We Think You know those watches that keep popping into your head, despite the...

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Introducing: Fredrique Constant Manufacture Classic Perpetual Calendar Burgundy Limited Edition (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Frederique Constant released Oct 19, 2026

Introducing: Fredrique Constant Manufacture Classic Perpetual Calendar Burgundy Limited Edition (Live Pics)

What We Know Last year, Frederique Constant released its classic perpetual calendar with a new movement, the FC-776, and eighteen months later, the brand is releasing a burgundy edition of its Manufacture Classic Perpetual Calendar, limited to 100 pieces. As Mark wrote when the previous edition was released right before last year's Watches and Wonders, the watch "has been one of if not the premiere affordable mechanical perpetual calendar on the market," and with the burgundy edition, the brand is offering a limited edition option to the collection. The polished stainless steel case measures 40mm by 12.25mm and has an anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal, 50 meters of water resistance, and an engraved case back carrying the individual edition number. The sunray-finished dial shifts from deep wine tones to brighter reflections, with a Côtes de Genève pattern on the counters. The day sits at 9 o'clock, the date at 3 o'clock, and the month and leap year at 12 o'clock. The moonphase at 6 o'clock runs against a midnight-blue background with laser-engraved stars. A chemin de fer minute track, applied faceted hour markers, and polished hands, and the fluted onion crown complete the dial. The Manufacture Classic Perpetual Calendar Burgundy Limited Edition, comes on a black alligator strap with a folding buckle and includes a second strap in burgundy alligator with an easy-open deployment clasp. It is priced at $12,995, limited to 100 pieces, and is available now. What We Thin...

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