Introducing: The Patek Philippe 6301P Grande Et Petite Sonnerie, With Jumping Seconds
The first-ever stand-alone grande et petite sonnerie from Patek.
The first-ever stand-alone grande et petite sonnerie from Patek.
SJX Watches
Seiko is gearing up to celebrate two anniversaries in 2021 – 160 years since the birth of its founder as well as the 140th year of the company – and has just announced one watch to mark each occasion, no doubt the first of many commemorative watches. The Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary Limited Edition (ref. SBGZ005) is a remake of the ref. 3180 of 1960 – the first Grand Seiko – but enhanced with a patterned dial and the exceptionally-finished 9R02 Spring Drive movement, and accompanied by an exceptionally-high price tag. Initial thoughts With its design essentially a replica of the first Grand Seiko, the SBGZ005 is a classically handsome watch and perhaps the quintessential Grand Seiko design. Though the overall style remains identical to the vintage original, it’s been dressed up subtly – with a radial, geometric motif on the dial, which also has solid, 14k gold hands and hour markers. All those additions make it look even more appealing without taking away from its original aesthetic. While the look is attractive, Grand Seiko has been remaking the original model too often, and at an accelerating pace. This is the fifth (or even sixth) remake of the Grand Seiko 3180, with the last one having just been launched earlier this year. The proliferation of remakes leaves the 3180 design a little too common for comfort. And then there’s the movement, which is the 9R02 that’s also found in the Grand Seiko Elegance Spring Drive...
Time+Tide
Anyone who knows anything about watches knows that watchmaking is hard. And anyone who knows anything about watchmaking knows that the bar set by George Daniels is extremely high. But despite these daunting challenges, there is a young watchmaker in Canberra, Australia, who is making a complete tourbillon pocket watch according to the George Daniels … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: @reubenschoots, an Australian independent watchmaker building a George Daniels Tourbillon pocket watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It should come as no surprise that IWC are the masters of the Swiss-made Flieger-style chronograph, given that they were one of the archetypal manufacturers of those watches back in the ’40s, but their ability to adapt to modern military specifications and expectations is undoubtedly an achievement. Based on an exclusive model made for the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Aggressive, unrelenting and tactical, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition “SFTI” is a tool watch lover’s dream appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The GPHG Petite Aiguille category is for watches with a retail price between 4,000 and 10,000 Swiss francs. This is a category that stands closer to the general public as it comprises watches that are far more affordable than the other categories except the Challenge category (under 4,000 Swiss francs).
Hodinkee
The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Watch
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko recently celebrated the 60th anniversary of the brand, and released an amazing collection of six watches in honour of the occasion. But now another two anniversaries are on the horizon – and they are big ones. 2021 will mark the 160th anniversary of the birth of founder Kintaro Hattori and the 140th anniversary … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: In tribute to the founder of Seiko, the new Grand Seiko SBGZ005 and SBGW260 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Last week, Lashana Lynch confirmed in Harper’s Bazaar that she would inherit the 007 mantle in No Time to Die, which is the 25th Bond film, due to hit cinemas in April 2021. During her interview she touched on a variety of points, including the perception of her casting and how she wanted to tackle … ContinuedThe post Lashana Lynch has confirmed she is the new 007 in “No Time to Die”, and boy does she wear the 007 Edition of the 300M with style… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
A lifetime guarantee in celebration of 70 years.
Revolution
MB&F; celebrated the 10th anniversary of the HM3 Frog with the HM3 Frog X in three executions
Deployant
MB&F; presented the HM3 Frog in 2010, derived from its HM3 series launched a year earlier. “The Frog” shocked the watchmaking world by pushing the limits of three-dimensional horology and would rapidly become one of our most recognised and well-liked Machines. Press Release with commentary in italics. Commentary on the HM3 The HM3 was originallyRead More
SJX Watches
Launched in 2010, the bug-eyed HM3 Frog was perhaps the quintessential MB&F; wristwatch during its five-year run, having been discontinued in 2015. Now it’s making a brief return for its 10th anniversary as the limited-edition HM3 Frog X – with a case made entirely of sapphire crystal. Originally launched as the slightly robotic-looking Horological Machine No. 3 (HM3), the model evolved into the more organic Frog, which gained a pair of sapphire domes that made its instantly distinctive. Now MB&F; has taken the idea even further: inspired by frogs with transparent skin according to MB&F;, the HM3 Frog X is entirely clear and whimsically colourful in three different shades. Initial thoughts Changing the case material gives the Frog X a whole new look, which is surprising, since the design is exceptionally idiosyncratic. In fact, the sapphire Frog resembles a grand piano. The crystal case also gives the watch a more cohesive, organic flavour, avoiding the visual breaks between different materials like crystal and metal alloy. And the sapphire Frog also seems more pared back, at least in photos, than the most sapphire-case watches that tend to be flashy. And having the same shape and size, the Frog X shares a crucial quality with the earlier versions of the HM3: good wearability despite the avant-garde design. Because the case is neither excessive long nor wide, and has tiny lugs, it sits well on the wrist despite its seemingly large size. This ease of wear is doubtlessly ...
Revolution
The Italian-born, Miami-based watch collector and expert tells us about his love affair with incredibly rare vintage pieces, including his greatest finds and biggest watch-related regret.
SJX Watches
Few tourists find themselves in Geneva’s historic Saint Gervais district, the city’s revolutionary hotbed where Jean-Jacques Rousseau spent his boyhood in the early 18th century, and from where James Fazy overthrew Geneva’s ruling oligarchy in the revolt of 1846. Throughout those times, Saint Gervais was above all the city’s horological powerhouse, a warren of sweatshops known as the Fabrique Genevoise, turning out the myriad parts and decorating the watches that made Geneva synonymous with luxury craftsmanship. The workshops were presided over by those emblematic figures of Geneva watchmaking, the radical, opinionated yet urbane cabinotiers. “A Parisian watchmaker,” remarked Rousseau, “can only talk about watches. But you can take a Geneva watchmaker anywhere.”[1] With the revival of luxury watchmaking in the late 20th century, the Fabrique was re-born in the less picturesque ZIPLO (Zone Industriel de Plan-les-Ouates) on the outskirts of town, and the sweatshops are now known as manufactures. Yet there’s still one watchmaker left in the remnants of old Saint Gervais, upholding the cabinotier tradition in this historic centre of Geneva watchmaking. Bruno Pesenti, the last watchmaker in Geneva’s historical watchmaking district, wears the smock and eyeshade of the cabinotiers who made watches here 200 years ago Forgotten brands Bruno Pesenti is one of the few watchmakers who can still fix anything pre-quartz. He welcomes you with modest pride and old-fash...
Time+Tide
Conversations around gender politics are mostly avoided within the watch world, for a multitude of reasons. Arguments tend to get in the way of the mutual appreciation for the hobby, just like any contentious topic, but there is a glaring problem with how most companies go about their watch marketing. Opinions aside, that absolutely anyone … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The virile vitality of the Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Last night saw the Phillips’ and Blackbird thematic auction Retrospective: 2000 – 2020 play out, with some truly incredible watches reaching truly incredible prices. Two that I wanted to focus on were a pair of watches that are at the same time very similar and very different. Both are handmade. Both are three-handed dress watches … ContinuedThe post Phillips auction battle of Swiss vs. Japanese handmade haute horology – which is better value? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Watch modification is now rampant throughout the watch community. From modded Seiko watches to blacked-out Rolex Milgauss pieces in Hollywood, a desire to personalise a watch and make it more of your own has always been an aspect of the watch industry. While some may opt for an engraved caseback, others have gone the route … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: A proper backstory to the Bamford Watch Department, the rebel modder that turned into a watch brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
As well as its sensational heat-induced colors, the magic of the De Bethune DB28GS Yellow Submarine is the mechanical dynamo system built into the movement to power four LED lights to illuminate the dial underwater or in the dark. Joshua Munchow takes a deep dive into what makes this watch so special, starting with what's on fire.
Hodinkee
The record price shattered the pre-sale top estimate of CHF 400,000.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: In case you’re wondering, yes! This is the ‘pink’ watch we’ve been hanging to see in the metal, if not just to contrast the real-life shade with the renderings in the press release. And, do we still call it pink? Well, Thor does, as you’ll see from the opening par. But I don’t. … ContinuedThe post The Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink in this video sure is pretty, but is it pink, per se? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
The only post-war platinum minute repeater ever made by AP with a bracelet.
SJX Watches
The very first Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary to leave Mr Dufour’s workshop was the first major example of independent watchmaking at Phillips’ Retrospective: 2000-2020 auction. It set a very high bar, hammering for 1.1 million Swiss francs, or 1.36 million francs including fees, which is equivalent to US$1.51 million. Almost forty times the retail price of the Simplicity when it was launched in 2000, the price is a new record for the model. The result handily crosses an earlier record set just a month ago at Sotheby’s in Hong Kong, where an 34 mm example from the original production run sold for US$662,000. The Simplicity 20th Anniversary features a hinged hunter back, a feature not found in the original series Impressive as it is, the record price was reached swiftly. Although the estimate was 200,000-400,000 francs, a bidder on the phone represented by Tiffany To of Phillips opened with a 450,000 franc bid. The phone bidder was joined by a handful of fellow phone as well as in-room bidders – Mr Bacs commented during the proceedings there were seven phone lines active – along with a solo bid online from Singapore. The price rose quickly in 50,000 and 100,000 franc steps, with Ms To’s phone bidder clinching the prize. The seven-figure price for the Simplicity elevates Mr Dufour to the rarefied territory of living independent watchmakers whose wristwatches have sold for above US$1m at auction. There are just two watchmakers who can make that clai...
Deployant
Collectors, at least within the local context, are a conservative bunch. There are certainly no shortage of collectors in Singapore, but most of them tend to stick to the usual few big brands. No prizes for guessing what are some of the brands that we were referring to. As a watch publication, we hope thatRead More
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: 202o, in one way or another, has made us all realise that life is not guaranteed, or going to go forever, and now there’s a way to remind yourself daily. While seemingly a grim proposition, the Tikker watch uses a “death calculation” based on an algorithm for life expectancy that’s used by the … ContinuedThe post The ‘Happiness Watch’ by Tikker uses a US Government algorithm to tell you when you’ll die. Worst name ever :( appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Aventurine remains a decorative artisanal element used only by luxury watchmakers in small series or unique pieces for its beauty and decorative properties. While there is some public uncertainty about the origin of aventurine, it continues to add mysterious shine and scintillating glamour to watches. Here is the real story behind aventurine: what it really is and where it comes from.
Time+Tide
Does this seem familiar? Yes, the popular bronze Hanhart chronograph recently released by some good friends of ours, seen on a Time+Tide editorial wrist here ,is a bronze 417 chronograph. Now Hanhart has remade the original stainless steel icon – a crisp cut classic military pilot’s chronograph with an earthbound claim to fame. The man … ContinuedThe post Hanhart just quietly released the 417ES, a Pilot’s watch famously worn by McQueen, and it’s a sleeper vintage monster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
At only 38.5 mm in diameter and 10.5 mm in height, the Habring2 Chrono-Felix Panda is almost as svelte as its time-only sibling Felix, and the absence of a customary second pusher for the chronograph’s reset function makes it look much lighter than a two-pusher chronograph. Elizabeth Doerr fell in love with this test watch and was sad to send it back after the review; find out why here.
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