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SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Singapore  ·  Est. 2011  ·  News, auctions, complications, Asian market
SJX Watches is a highly regarded watch journalism site founded in Singapore. The publication is known for breaking news on new releases with unmatched speed, detailed technical coverage of complications and movements, and authoritative auction reporting. SJX is often the first English-language source to cover major international releases and has become essential reading for serious collectors across Asia and beyond.
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Five Watches to See at Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milano 2026 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Yesterday

Five Watches to See at Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milano 2026

The Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milano 2026 is a Patek Philippe extravaganza that’s on show until October 18 at CityOval, a restored 1920s sporting complex. Hundreds of timepieces populate the over-30,000 sq ft space, including 99 from the venerable Patek Philippe Museum. But some watches stand out, for reasons ranging from artisanal beauty to historical significance – here’s five worth paying attention to. Starting with the present day are a duo from the Rare Handcrafts collection put together specifically for this event. These are proof that beauty is both rare and expensive – each is a one-off and costs about US$800,000. The first is the Rare Handcrafts Pocket Watch ref. 995/147G-001 “Venetian Cruise” that is literal: the reverse depicts a journey across the waters of Venice from the perspective of a passenger on a runabout, perhaps a Riva. The scene is something of a modern riff on classical painting depicting the entrance to the Grand Canal of Venice. The wood deck of the boat is actually wood – the dial has over 330 pieces of wood forming the marquetry motif. The lake and buildings, which include the Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute, are in miniature enamel painting. The juxtaposition of techniques and intricacy of the work make this a particularly compelling piece. In contrast, the front of the watch is functional and almost no-frills, yet entirely appropriate. The dial is modelled on the instruments on the dashboard of a boat, explaining the funct...

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World Watch Day 2026: Time as Living Heritage SJX Watches
De Bethune co-founder Denis Flageollet Yesterday

World Watch Day 2026: Time as Living Heritage

Today marks the second annual World Watch Day, celebrated on October 10 in a clever nod to the familiar “10:10” depiction of watch hands. This year’s theme, “Time as Living Heritage”, puts the people of Sainte-Croix at the centre of the occasion. A training course at Association Mec-Art Marking the event, our founder SJX participated in a round-table discussion about preserving and passing on the skills of both watchmaking and mechanical art. The panel included De Bethune co-founder Denis Flageollet and automaton maker François Junod, who helped establish the Association Mec-Art, watchmaker Vianney Halter, The 1916 Company’s Tim Mosso, and Karin Alexandrian of the Musée des Arts et Métiers. Europa Star’s Pierre Maillard moderated the conversation. Denis Flageollet of De Bethune co-founded the Association Mec-Art in 2016 with automaton-makers François Junod and Nicolas Court The organisers, Association Mec-Art and the Musée de la Mécanique d’Art et du Patrimoine de Sainte-Croix (MuMAPS), work to safeguard the traditions explored in our earlier story on the unique skills being preserved in Sainte-Croix. These extend beyond watches to music boxes, mechanical singing birds, and automata. Mec-Art helps keep the skills alive through creative projects and practical courses, while MuMAPS is the local museum dedicated to mechanical art and the town’s heritage. The shared challenge is to ensure that future generations can still make and repair these objects, ...

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SJX Podcast: Rolex London, Patek Philippe Milano SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Milano 2 days ago

SJX Podcast: Rolex London, Patek Philippe Milano

On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, SJX returns from London and Milan with impressions of two very different demonstrations of watchmaking’s biggest names at work. Rolex’s “Four Seasons” Daytona auction broke the record for the biggest charity watch auction in history, raising nearly US$50 million, but a longer run-up might possibly have pushed the result even higher. In Milan, Patek Philippe unveiled the ref. 5978P, pairing an instantaneous perpetual calendar with its manually wound chronograph. The exhibition’s Rare Handcrafts and Italian-market limited editions also offer plenty to debate, from remarkable pocket watches to a Ferrari-red minute repeater. Finally, we discuss highlights from Marteau & Co’s fourth online auction, which runs from October 8-15th. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

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Highlights: Unique Indies at Marteau & Co’s ‘The Encore’ SJX Watches
2 days ago

Highlights: Unique Indies at Marteau & Co’s ‘The Encore’

Yesterday Marteau & Co kicked off its fourth sale, The Encore, comprising primarily pièce unique watches from independent watchmakers, which is the founding theme of the online-only auctioneer. Beyond its focus on indies, the auctioneer sets itself apart with its “maker’s fee”, which rewards the maker of the timepiece with 3% of the hammer price for each watch sold Conceived to allow watchmakers to reap the rewards when their products appreciate, this fee is also known as the artist’s resale right, or droit de suite, a concept that’s been codified into law across Europe for fine art. Marteau & Co’s approach is the first instance of its application in watchmaking, and seems successful so far. Lot 9 – Yosuke Sekiguchi Primevere “Interprétation du Japon” pièce unique Yosuke Sekiguchi is Swiss independent watchmaker, born in Japan and trained in France, who cut his teeth at La Joux-Perret and Christophe Claret before pivoting to restoration work in 2016. Around that time he transformed an orphaned Jules Jürgensen pocket watch movement dating to 1871, casing it into a wristwatch, which inspired the Primevère. We covered the prototype of this watch in depth when it debuted in 2021, and shot another (this time in rose gold with a black enamel) earlier this year, but this stainless steel confirmation with a red enamel sub-dial – a look inspired by the Japanese flag – is perhaps the best looking configuration we’ve seen. Beyond its striking looks, this...

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Hands On: Wren Vessel SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet 3 days ago

Hands On: Wren Vessel

New York-based Wren has introduced the Vessel, an integrated-bracelet sports watch with an unusually elaborate sapphire crystal. Designed by Max Resnick under founder Craig Karger’s direction, its futuristic case and crystal mark Wren’s first departure from the dive watch format and help establish a broader identity for the brand. Initial thoughts The name Wren is a portmanteau of Wrist Enthusiast, the online watch publication founded by Mr Karger. The brand’s first watch, the Diver One, was introduced in 2024, and Wren has stuck to dive watches ever since. The Vessel, however, is anything but a diver. By venturing far beyond its initial design language, Wren has carved out considerable space in which to develop its identity. In doing so, Wren has taken a page out of the Berneron playbook with a sophomore effort that is almost as different from its debut as it could be. Perhaps because the look is so different, the Vessel features an aqua blue seconds hand and winding rotor to match the dial colour of the original Diver One. The Vessel’s design was penned by British designer Max Resnick under Mr Karger’s creative direction. Originally trained in automotive design, Mr Resnick has worked with several other small brands, including Anoma and VPC. The vision called for an integrated-bracelet sports watch that avoided channelling the same handful of historical designs from the 1970s. The resulting look has more in common with Alto than Audemars Piguet. The angular desi...

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Hands On: Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue SJX Watches
Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep 3 days ago

Hands On: Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue

The Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue adds a dark blue ceramic case to the brand’s 500 m dive watch collection. It’s a more casual take on the Supermarine, with a restrained colour and carefully finished case that give the Sellita-powered diver a more stylish, less tactical character. Initial thoughts Sometimes it’s surprising how much difference a colour can make. In the case of the Bremont Supermarine, the navy blue hue of the ceramic case and bezel results in a look that is quite different from that of its black ceramic stablemates. The deep blue colour is very subtle, and to my eye looks less plasticky than some brighter blue ceramic competitors. The prominent texture of the brushing on the case gives it vaguely a metallic appearance, and it at a glance it could almost pass for PVD-coated steel. While ceramic is not a perfect material and can crack under extreme torsion or if dropped onto a sufficiently hard surface, the real-world benefits outweigh these edge cases. The natural scratch-resistance of ceramic pays dividends when changing straps, for example, as the spring bars cannot scratch the inside of the lugs when finding their seat. There’s also an ancillary benefit to ceramic, which is that service watchmakers will not be tempted to try to polish it. The Supermarine’s strengths lie in its finely executed dial and relatively slim case. The wave-inspired dial pattern is dramatic without being overpowering, while the 13 mm thickness and flat case ...

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Breaking News: F.P. Journe, Chanel Acquire 95% of Ebel for US$66.5 Million SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chanel Acquire 95% 3 days ago

Breaking News: F.P. Journe, Chanel Acquire 95% of Ebel for US$66.5 Million

In a surprise move, a consortium led by Montres Journe and comprising Chanel and Pierre Jacques, the former chief executive of De Bethune, has acquired Ebel from its longtime American owners, the Movado Group. According to the deal announcement, the consortium is buying 95% of Ebel for US$66.5 million, with the remaining shares to be retained by Movado. The three-party consortium evidently brings different skills to the table, including the financial firepower of Chanel, the watchmaking know-how of François-Paul Journe, and the operational and managerial expertise of Mr Jacques. Movado, on the other hand, might be relieved to have unloaded Ebel, which it unsuccessfully tried to revive over its two decades of ownership. From left: François-Paul Journe, Efraim Grinberg of Movado, Frédéric Grangié of Chanel, and Pierre Jacques. Image – Pierre Jacques Once a high flying brand that was one of the biggest in Switzerland during its 1980s and 1990s heyday, Ebel was famous for its Sport Classique, often nicknamed “wave”, which featured integrated bracelets resembling a wave. Launched in 1977, the model launched Ebel into the stratosphere, with its workforce growing 15 times and revenue reaching nine figures. Ebel was led during this time by Pierre-Alain Blum, grandson of its founders and a shrewd marketer. In the year just after the Quartz Crisis, Ebel was a luxury giant. Amongst the indicators of Ebel’s success and scale during this period: Cartier turned to Ebel to p...

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Hands On: Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute 4 days ago

Hands On: Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater

The Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater returns with a transparent red mineral crystal dial and an updated movement, 12 years after the original introduced chiming complications to the brand. Combining a wearable case with a clear view of the striking racks, it makes a convincing addition to the more mechanically focused side of the collection. Initial thoughts After 12 years of minute repeaters and musical wristwatches, it’s easy to take Jacob & Co.’s presence in the category for granted. Working closely with external specialists, the brand has developed an impressive portfolio of striking watches in a remarkably short time. That repertoire encompasses the decimal repeater of the Twin Turbo Furious, the three-gong carillon of the Astronomia Maestro, and the combination of a music box and minute repeater in the Opera Godfather. These different approaches to sound illustrate the breadth of the brand’s ambitions and its relationships with specialist movement makers. We recently sat down with Jacob & Co. chief executive Benjamin Arabov to discuss how smaller watches like the Palatial have helped broaden the brand’s clientele. Mr Arabov admitted that he is affectionately known by some of his staff as the “size dictator”, due to his insistence on reducing dimensions while retaining the mechanical creativity. While the brand still makes a number of extremely large watches, the increase in smaller, more wearable options has attracted a new clientele...

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Seiko’s Power Design Project “Panda” Comes to Life SJX Watches
Grand Seiko inspired 4 days ago

Seiko’s Power Design Project “Panda” Comes to Life

Seiko takes a break from its usual fare of affordable dive watches and dress watches with the Power Design Project Collection 2 “Panda” in black (HHK001) and pink (HHK002). It’s a limited edition run of a concept watch created for the design-oriented exhibition of the same name staged in 2024. Affordable and fun, the watch takes the concept of a “panda” dial literally. Initial thoughts The “Panda” chronograph is a fun watch in both concept and execution. It’s quartz with panda ears as chronograph pushers, while the price is a mere US$540. This is probably the top choice this year for an inexpensive gift that’s still a proper watch from a reputable brand. More broadly, the “Panda” underlines the diversity of Seiko’s offerings; one of its other launches this year was the Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon, which is artisanal high horology. And it also raises the question, if there can be a top-of-the-line Grand Seiko inspired by a lion, why not a high-end “panda” chronograph? Design power The “Panda” limited edition is modelled on the concept watch created by Kiyotaka Sakai, a member of Seiko’s in-house design team, for Power Design Project in 2024. It’s almost identical to the exhibition watch, save for minor tweaks to the dial to improve legibility, as well as the addition of a nose and mouth for the “face” that replace “Pandagraph” in the concept watch. Designer Kiyotaka Sakai The “Panda” chronograph debuts in two variants, both ...

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A. Lange & Söhne’s Singapore Pop-Up Explores Chronographs and Cars SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne 4 days ago

A. Lange & Söhne’s Singapore Pop-Up Explores Chronographs and Cars

This month Singapore will play host to A. Lange & Söhne’s Challenging Chronographs, a pop-up exhibition exploring Lange’s iconic chronograph movements and the brand’s perennial presence at the automotive world’s most elite “concours” competitions. Taking place at ION Orchard, the exhibition will take visitors through the history of the Datograph collection, from the landmark 1999 original to the Double Split and Triple Split. The event also focusses on Lange’s role as an official partner of the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este on Lake Como, and related events at Hampton Court Palace and Audrain Newport, events that bestow the most coveted awards in the world of vintage automobiles. The Triple Split in platinum A master watchmaker and a master engraver from Glashütte will be on hand throughout the event to provide insight into the assembly of the brand’s famed chronographs, and demonstrate the process of freehand engraving a balance cock, respectively. This unique 1815 Chronograph was awarded to the winner of the 2022 Concorso d’Eleganza at Villa d’Este Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid (left) with the best-in-show winner at the Concours of Elegance 2023 Open from 10:00 am-9:00 pm each day, guided tours and demonstrations are available by appointment, though limited slots will be available so early registration is encouraged. Challenging Chronographs will be hosted from October 18-30 at the ION Orchard, Level 1 Atrium at 2 Orchard Turn, Singapore 238801. Re...

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Off the Cuff: Audemars Piguet and Konstantin Chaykin Think Beyond the Watch SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Think Beyond 5 days ago

Off the Cuff: Audemars Piguet and Konstantin Chaykin Think Beyond the Watch

Watchmakers regularly turn familiar design cues into accessories, but Audemars Piguet and Konstantin Chaykin have taken notably different approaches to the genre with their latest offerings. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Joaillerie Collection recasts the Royal Oak as an extensive range of elaborate jewellery, while Konstantin Chaykin’s Master of Days cufflinks incorporate a tiny mechanical calibre that provides a day-of-the-week display. Both draw on the design and manufacturing specialties of their makers, but at vastly different price points and with different audiences in mind. Both approaches, however, lend themselves to gift-giving, which might explain the timing of the releases in the lead up to the holiday season. Initial thoughts Some of the biggest names in series watchmaking dabble in accessories on the side. The most obvious is probably Rolex, which made headlines when it formally launched a line of cufflinks — and a desk clock — late last year. Patek Philippe, too, has a long history of making jewellery and accessories. Today the brand offers cufflinks that match the Golden Ellipse, Nautilus, and Cubitus, and jewellery that takes after the Aquanaut and the Twenty-4. Even smaller-scale independent watchmakers evidently see value in the category. F.P. Journe offers a set of cufflinks in a choice of platinum or 18 pink gold — to match the brand’s watches — as does Biver. Franck Muller goes even further, with a full collection of Crazy Hours-inspired ne...

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Dueling Dials: Omega’s James Bond and Spectre Seamasters SJX Watches
Omega s James Bond 6 days ago

Dueling Dials: Omega’s James Bond and Spectre Seamasters

The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond and Spectre collection pairs familiar no-date divers with competing character motifs, including platinum-gold variants in two limited edition boxed sets. The watches extend Omega’s most successful screen partnership while leaving the underlying Seamaster largely unchanged. Initial thoughts Omega’s partnership with James Bond remains one of the great marketing coups of the 1990s, pulled off by none other than Jean-Claude Biver. While it’s easy to feel cynical about product placement, especially today, the pairing made a lot of sense for film franchise looking for a fresh start with a new leading man. Today, the film franchise is at a turning point — Daniel Craig’s successor has not yet been announced, and it’s an open question whether the character’s appeal will extend to younger demographics. Despite these headwinds, the James Bond effect is no doubt a positive one for Omega, which has released dueling Seamasters — one for the titular character and one for his recurring nemesis, Spectre. The “James Bond” variant There’s also a pair of boxed sets — one for the hero, another for the villain — that include 77-piece limited edition variants of both the steel Seamasters and heavyweight versions in platinum-gold, which is mostly platinum with a bit of gold added to the alloy. The platinum-gold models weigh in at more than 200 g, nearly double the weight of the stainless steel equivalent on a strap. The “Spectr...

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SJX Podcast: In Conversation with Benjamin Arabov SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. has evolved considerably over 6 days ago

SJX Podcast: In Conversation with Benjamin Arabov

From the Five Time Zone to the Astronomia and Bugatti, Jacob & Co. has evolved considerably over the past 20 years. On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, SJX speaks with CEO Benjamin Arabov about the family-owned brand’s transformation and the mechanical ingenuity sometimes obscured by its celebrity clientele and gem-set watches. The conversation explores how ideas become watches, why smaller cases have opened the door to new collectors, and what makes partnerships with Bugatti and The Godfather work. We also discuss the origins of the brand’s celebrity following, the continued importance of retail partners, and Benjamin’s approach to building a business that can outlast its founder while preserving his creative ambition. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

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Hanhart Revisits Steve McQueen’s Personal Chronograph SJX Watches
Rolex but his personal watches Oct 2, 2026

Hanhart Revisits Steve McQueen’s Personal Chronograph

Steve McQueen is closely associated with Heuer and Rolex, but his personal watches also included the less conspicuous Hanhart 417 ES. The Hanhart 417 ES Steve McQueen Limited Edition No. 1 commemorates that connection with a discreet dial signature and a strap modelled on his own, developed with input from his grandchildren. Initial thoughts Steve McQueen is inextricably linked to Hollywood, but also the objects he surrounded himself with — cars, clothing, sunglasses and watches. Though when it comes to the latter, he’s often mislabeled. The Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655 is often erroneously nicknamed the ‘Steve McQueen’ despite the fact he never wore one (it was a Submariner ref. 5513). But before the Rolex and Heuer Monaco years came the Hanhart 417 ES, which McQueen was rarely seen without as it accompanied him through everyday activities for many of his early years in Hollywood. McQueen’s loyalty to the comparatively low-key Hanhart 417 may have been function-led. An avid racer, sportsman and marksman, the flyback chronograph with ample shock resistance and a useful rotating bezel likely hit the mark for what he wanted from a tool watch. Hanhart has kept the tribute restrained. The actor’s signature replaces the text above six o’clock on the standard 417 ES 1954 Heritage Flyback, but is small enough not to overwhelm the dial. The watch can stand on its own, even for someone with little interest in McQueen. It’s a good story for a watch priced at €2,890....

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Seiko Surfaces with Prospex “Blue Tears” Limited Edition SJX Watches
Seiko Surfaces Oct 1, 2026

Seiko Surfaces with Prospex “Blue Tears” Limited Edition

The Seiko Prospex Diver’s Watch “Blue Tears” ref. HBB006 gives the familiar “Samurai” a subtle blue-on-blue colourway, with a bright blue seconds hand providing the contrast. Affordable, well made, and rugged without over-the-top styling, the regional limited edition preserves the practical appeal of Seiko’s entry-level Prospex diver. Initial thoughts I like the “Blue Tears” for much the same reason I like Seiko’s other straightforward divers — it’s purposeful without looking dull. The blue-on-blue palette helps, particularly the vibrant seconds hand, which suggests an understanding of colour theory. Throughout history, artists (and some high-end watch brands) have employed this formula to enhance the perceived “glow” of the lighter colour. Nature-inspired dials are familiar territory for Seiko, and blue remains a crowd favourite. At 41.7 mm in diameter and 12.3 mm thick, the case offers sensible proportions for a substantial steel diver, and the bracelet’s faceted links carry on the angular form of the lugs, distinguishing it from other dive watches in the Seiko collection. In short, the design succeeds in part because it’s not trying to look like something else — a common problem in the dive watch segment. Priced just under SGD954, the “Blue Tears” offers convincing value, reinforced by is 1,200-piece limitation and the included silicone strap. Seiko’s industrial scale continues to pay dividends in this segment, enabling the brand to...

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Ladies First: Patek Philippe Debuts Gondolo 7043 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Debuts Gondolo 7043 Patek Oct 1, 2026

Ladies First: Patek Philippe Debuts Gondolo 7043

Patek Philippe expands its feminine offerings with the Gondolo Ladies First ref. 7043 in white and rose gold with the option of diamonds, or even more diamonds. Housed in the Gondolo case with ergonomic articulating lugs and powered by a simple, well-decorated movement, Patek Philippe pitches the inaugural quartz Ladies First model as an easy-to-wear, design-led watch for a discerning (and well-heeled) clientele. Initial thoughts The Gondolo Ladies First launches alongside a new marketing campaign, helmed by London ad agency Leagas Delaney, responsible for the well known generations campaign and the famous slogan, “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation”. Until now, “Ladies First” meant complicated watches, including the 2009 debut of Patek Philippe’s excellent hand-wound chronograph calibre, as well as a perpetual calendar and a minute repeater. In this context, a two-hand quartz watch is another first. The selection available at launch is arguably more characterful than the quartz-powered Twenty-4 models, and strengthen Patek Philippe’s catalogue in a segment that the industry has long overlooked. The indices on both the regular and jewellery models deserve special mention — the use of trapeze-cut stones, rather than more common rectangular baguettes, was, to my eye, a make-or-break decision for these dials, and Patek Philippe made the right choice. But, as usual for the brand, the value proposition may be ...

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Patek Philippe Captures Italian Splendour in Enamel and Marquetry SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Captures Italian Splendour Oct 1, 2026

Patek Philippe Captures Italian Splendour in Enamel and Marquetry

It was just a few months ago that Patek Philippe unveiled a wide range of Rare Handcrafts at its Geneva salon, but that hasn’t stopped the brand from releasing another full slate of Dome Clocks, pocket watches, and wristwatches at its Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan. The brand’s capacity for artistic craft is vast, as is the selection of motifs, which is not limited to Milan. Subject matter ranges from miniature views of the Amalfi coast to Byzantine mosaics, with Italian architecture, landscapes and decorative arts supplying the common thread. Table and Dome Clocks The Table Clock ref. 25028M-001 “City of Milan” is a natural place to start since it puts the host city at the centre of the collection. Its map spreads across the dial and curved side panels, with the Duomo picked out in gold using paillonné enamel. Keeping the streets aligned as they pass between the three surfaces is one of the more demanding aspects of Patek Philippe Table Clocks, which are a staple of the brand’s Watch Art exhibitions. About 11 m of gold wire outlines the districts, filled with blues, greens and turquoises over barleycorn guilloche. The translucent flinqué enamel allows the underlying texture to remain visible, while opaque white distinguishes the principal roads. Four lozenge-shaped markers on the bezel serve both as quarter-hour indications and compass points. The “City of Milan” is a limited edition of three pieces. The Dome Clock ref. 20180M-001 “Ravenna” takes...

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Complicated Calatravas Headline Patek Philippe Exhibition SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Exhibition Patek Philippe has Oct 1, 2026

Complicated Calatravas Headline Patek Philippe Exhibition

Patek Philippe has just unveiled a suite of new limited editions for the Italian market, which make their debut at the brand’s Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan. While the showstopper is the new instantaneous perpetual calendar chronograph ref. 5978P, Patek Philippe has expanded its range of complicated Calatravas with the Minute Repeater ref. 7047G, a new variant of a format that launched during Watches & Wonders, and the Perpetual Calendar ref. 7147G, which applies the brand’s familiar cal. 240-based perpetual calendar to a carbon-embossed Calatrava for the first time. Rounding out the selection of limited editions for the Italian market is the white-dialled time-only Calatrava ref. 7007G, a new Aquanaut ref. 5167 in stainless steel, and two variants of the World Time Minute Repeater ref. 5531G with enamel dials produced by Anita Porchet’s studio. Calatrava Minute Repeater ref. 7047G-010 While Patek Philippe is not an official partner of Ferrari, the vivid red dial feels distinctly Italian, suiting the Northern Italian location of the event. The colour makes it part of a trio of Calatravas in the colours of the Italian flag, but also has a connection to the history of this particular branch of the Calatrava family, making the automotive association more interesting than a passing resemblance to a red sports car. This generation of Calatrava, distinguished by its embossed “carbon” pattern dial and contemporary Arabic numerals, dates to the limited edition ref....

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Patek Philippe’s 5978P Steals Milan Spotlight SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s 5978P Steals Milan Oct 1, 2026

Patek Philippe’s 5978P Steals Milan Spotlight

Patek Philippe’s Watch Art Grand Exhibition has just opened in Milan, three years after its last residency in Tokyo. The regular exhibit pops up in a new city every few years, and serves as a local demonstration of the brand’s prowess across complications and métiers d’art. For the Milan edition, the flagship new release is the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ref. 5978P-010, which combines the instantaneous perpetual calendar system from the ref. 5207 with the brand’s manually wound cal. CH 29-535 chronograph movement. Visually, this combination of elements resembles the more upscale ref. 5208, but without the minute repeater functionality. Debuting in platinum, the blue-and-red ref. 5978P is limited to 120 pieces, but additional (non-limited) variants seem likely at some point in the future. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe was the first brand to combine the perpetual calendar and chronograph complications in a wristwatch. This breakthrough came surprisingly early in the history of the wristwatch — the fabled ref. 1518 debuted all the way back in 1941. Since then, this format has become almost synonymous with the brand. The ref. 5978P builds upon this legacy without retreading the same territory. For one thing, the watch eschews the familiar triple calendar dial layout of the refs. 1518, 2499, 3970, 5970, 5270, and their cushion-shaped and split-seconds variants. Instead, the dial adopts the layout of the ref. 5208, characterised by three calendar windows across...

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In-Depth: 200 Odd Years of Hacking Tourbillons SJX Watches
Breguet stopping Oct 1, 2026

In-Depth: 200 Odd Years of Hacking Tourbillons

Conventional wisdom holds that stopping a tourbillon for precise time setting — “hacking” in watchmaking parlance — is a difficult endeavor given the constant rotation of the cage. The hacking tourbillon wristwatch didn’t arrive until 2008, courtesy of the A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret. In fact, hacking of any sort remained a rarity until the last few decades — ironic, since the primary function of the seconds hand has arguably evolved from a way to assess accuracy into an indicator that a watch is running. Some brands are still in the process of adding stop-seconds features to their basic calibres, and hacking remains scarcer still in wristwatch tourbillons, appearing with regularity only in the last two decades. But building for the waistcoat pocket, historical watchmakers have been stopping tourbillons for almost as long as they’ve been building them, and developed a number of solutions for this problem along the way, each stopping the tourbillon, or merely the seconds, in a different way. Breguet – stopping the seconds without stopping the watch Almost 225 years ago to the year, the French Ministry of the Interior granted Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747 – 1823) a patent for his most famous creation, the tourbillon, a clever way to improve a watch’s marks during accuracy testing. For a mechanical watch to keep the same time across all vertical positions, the “balance complete” — comprised of the balance, staff, roller, collet and balance spring — mu...

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Hands On: Raymond Weil Millesime Jubilee SJX Watches
Raymond Weil Millesime Jubilee Raymond Weil Sep 30, 2026

Hands On: Raymond Weil Millesime Jubilee

Raymond Weil kicked off its 50th anniversary earlier this year with the Fifty, a vintage-inspired limited edition chronograph powered by an appropriately historical vintage calibre. The party continues with the Millesime Jubilee, a larger but more accessible “panda” variant that borrows the Millesime’s “sector” dial and appealing “pump” pushers. Limited to 500 pieces, the Jubilee exchanges the vintage movement for a modern automatic calibre, and looses its predecessor’s white gold bezel. But it retains much of what made the Fifty attractive at less than half the price. The Fifty (left) with the Jubilee Initial thoughts Raymond Weil appears to be claiming renewed relevance after years in the wilderness. Established in 1976, it was one of the few watch brands founded during that difficult period to survive and prosper. Classical designs at accessible prices, backed by widespread advertising, made it a familiar name. At its peak in the late 1980s and early 1990s, the brand was selling some half a million watches per year. But the affordable luxury category became crowded, and Raymond Weil gave up ground to new entrants, languishing for a number of years. The Millesime has given the brand a more convincing identity, combining familiar vintage styling with unusually good attention to detail for the money. The Jubilee chronograph is no exception. The conical flange carrying the tachymeter scale is particularly appealing. Attractively snailed, it slopes gently tow...

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Takeaways from the Record-Breaking Rolex Daytona Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref 6300A Sep 29, 2026

Takeaways from the Record-Breaking Rolex Daytona Auction

In just a couple of weeks, Rolex and Phillips pulled off the near-impossible: a record-setting auction where the unique Daytona “Four Seasons” set sold for £37.3 million, equivalent to US$49.5 million. The sum is the largest tally ever for a charity watch auction of any sort, and also surpasses the US$31 million achieved by the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A in 2019 – which was admittedly a single watch. All of the proceeds from the sale of the “Four Seasons” go to charities founded by Roger Federer and Leonardo DiCaprio, global celebrities and Rolex “Testimonees” who lent star power to the evening, which took place on September 28, the day after the Laver Cup that Mr Federer attended. The venue was the Raffles London, perhaps the latest and greatest hotel in the British capital, a city with no shortage of grand hotels. Reputedly the most expensive hotel project in the city’s history, having cost some £1.5 billion, the colonial building was once home to the British Ministry of Defence. The four Daytonas were on display in a room that appeared to be a basement bunker. The lavishly rebuilt interiors of the “Old War Office” were a fitting venue for the record-breaking evening, which was populated by a mix of celebrities, including Mick Jagger and Jon Bon Jovi, as well as many anonymous but well-heeled watch collectors who are clients of Phillips. Some of the world’s most significant watch collectors were in the room. Despite the short time...

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Rolex Daytona “Four Seasons” Set Shatters Auction Record SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s steel Grandmaster Chime Sep 29, 2026

Rolex Daytona “Four Seasons” Set Shatters Auction Record

When we first reported on Rolex’s Daytona “Four Seasons” charity auction, we wondered whether the quartet could reach CHF31 million, the sum achieved by Patek Philippe’s steel Grandmaster Chime at Only Watch in 2019. We got our answer today in London, where the four Daytonas together raised £37.3 million, equivalent to CHF41.2 million, or approximately US$49.5 million. That comparison comes with an obvious qualification: Rolex’s total covers four watches, while the Grandmaster Chime result was for one. Nevertheless, it is an extraordinary sum for a quartet of chronographs sharing the same movement, distinguished by their unique combinations of precious metals and stones. The auction was hosted Phillips and conducted by Aurel Bacs. Summer led at £10.3 million, followed by Autumn at £10.2 million, Winter at £10 million, and Spring at £6.8 million. Most of the action occurred over the phone. Phillips describes the combined result as a record for a single consignment to a charity auction. All proceeds will benefit the Federer Foundation, which supports early education in Southern Africa and Switzerland, and Re:wild, the conservation organisation co-founded by Leonardo DiCaprio. Left to right: Summer, Autumn, Winter, and Spring Key facts and price Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona “Four Seasons” Ref. 126596 SABV — Winter (platinum) Ref. 126599 SAVL — Spring (white gold) Ref. 126595 SARO — Summer (Everose gold) Ref. 126598 TML — Autumn (yellow ...

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Rolex Daytona “Four Seasons” Achieves Record Price SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s steel Grandmaster Chime Sep 29, 2026

Rolex Daytona “Four Seasons” Achieves Record Price

When we first reported on Rolex’s Daytona “Four Seasons” charity auction, we wondered whether the quartet could reach CHF31 million, the sum achieved by Patek Philippe’s steel Grandmaster Chime at Only Watch in 2019. We got our answer today in London, where the four Daytonas together raised £37.3 million, equivalent to CHF41.2 million, or approximately US$49.5 million. That comparison comes with an obvious qualification: Rolex’s total covers four watches, while the Grandmaster Chime result was for one. Nevertheless, it is an extraordinary sum for a quartet of chronographs sharing the same movement, distinguished by their unique combinations of precious metals and stones. The auction was hosted Phillips and conducted by Aurel Bacs. Summer led at £10.3 million, followed by Autumn at £10.2 million, Winter at £10 million, and Spring at £6.8 million. Most of the action occurred over the phone. Phillips describes the combined result as a record for a single consignment to a charity auction. All proceeds will benefit the Federer Foundation, which supports early education in Southern Africa and Switzerland, and Re:wild, the conservation organisation co-founded by Leonardo DiCaprio. Left to right: Summer, Autumn, Winter, and Spring Key facts and price Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona “Four Seasons” Ref. 126596 SABV — Winter (platinum) Ref. 126599 SAVL — Spring (white gold) Ref. 126595 SARO — Summer (Everose gold) Ref. 126598 TML — Autumn (yellow ...

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Visiting Manufacture La Joux-Perret SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Sep 29, 2026

Visiting Manufacture La Joux-Perret

Manufacture La Joux-Perret (MLJP) has become an increasingly important supplier to the growing ranks of micro-brands and independent watchmakers, offering capable Swiss movements at accessible prices. Though a fraction of the size of its neighbour Sellita, the manufacture has expanded through a pragmatic combination of selective automation, a more focused movement catalogue, and careful investments in production. Its approach offers an instructive look at how Swiss watchmaking can remain competitive while retaining the skills needed to produce everything from solar quartz movements to hand-finished tourbillons under one roof. To find out more about MLJP, we visited the manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, one of the historical centres of watchmaking in the Swiss Jura. A primer on MLJP The history of MLJP can be traced to the revival of complicated watchmaking in the early 1990s. Established by Jean-Pierre Jaquet in 1990 under his own name, the firm supplied specialised movements, including shaped calibres and complications, to the growing fine watchmaking segment. Among its best-known offerings of that era was a monopusher chronograph designed by François-Paul Journe and produced for clients like Franck Muller and Girard-Perregaux. Loosely related to the cal. 045MC that Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA) developed previously for Cartier, the platform remains in production today as the cal. A5000, one of the manufacture’s more upmarket movements. The cal. A5000 in an ...

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Breguet Expands Marine Fleet SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Sep 25, 2026

Breguet Expands Marine Fleet

The Breguet Marine 5517 and 5527 chronograph have been with us since 2018, remaining largely unchanged even as the rest of the catalogue has been thoroughly modernised. Now, the Marine collection gets its refresh with new dials and a range of materials, from titanium to 18k rose and white gold. The Marine 5517 in titanium Initial thoughts The Marine is something of an outlier among high-end integrated bracelet sports watches, being one of the few designs that avoids the 1970s-inspired styling that dominates the segment. Instead, the Marine carries design DNA from the brand’s heritage producing marine chronometers, dressed in a suitably seaworthy case and bracelet (or rubber strap). One of the most notable design changes for the updated Marine is that the roman numerals have been retired in favour of Breguet numerals. This update gives the Marine obvious Breguet design DNA, but some may find the mix of traditional Breguet elements on the dial with the contemporary case too much of a clash. The Marine 5527 in 18k rose gold There’s little question about the overall quality of the Marine, but the pricing puts its head-to-head with popular models from Audemars Piguet, such as the Royal Oak Chronograph, which is actually $500 cheaper than the 5527 in 18k rose gold. That said, the titanium variants are priced competitively, relative to titanium sports watches of similar quality from the likes of Vacheron Constantin. Six references, with bracelet or strap A little against conv...

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Interview: Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani and Vianney Halter SJX Watches
Bulgari unveiled Sep 25, 2026

Interview: Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani and Vianney Halter

At Geneva Watch Days, Bulgari unveiled its latest collaboration with an independent watchmaker, three years after a fateful meeting between Vianney Halter and Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Product Creation Executive Director at Bulgari. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Vianney Halter Both describe their encounter – seemingly improbable at first – as more natural than we might expect. It resulted in a watch they both describe as “half Octo, half Vianney”. Yet this was not simply a matter of grafting one aesthetic onto another; the collaboration went deeper. Two separate conversations bring the same themes into focus: human connection, constraint as a creative stimulus and, above all, the opportunity to learn from one another. Vianney Halter (left) with Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani. Image – Bulgari From Bulgari’s perspective, Mr Stigliani describes the Octo Finissimo as a model whose identity had become strong enough to withstand a much deeper transformation – and a manufacture challenged by the ideas of an independent watchmaker. Mr Halter, meanwhile, has long regarded collaboration as a means of moving beyond the boundaries and limitations of his own workshop – provided that the human relationship comes before the project. The interview was edited for length and clarity. Yannick Nardin (YN): Fabrizio, how did the idea of working with Vianney Halter come about? Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani (FBS): I’ve always been in love with the Antiqua. We went to see Vi...

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Audemars Piguet Brings Padel to Singapore SJX Watches
Frederique Constant became Sep 24, 2026

Audemars Piguet Brings Padel to Singapore

Audemars Piguet is hosting a Padel Pop-Up Club starting September 25, marking the brand’s first local event tied to its involvement in the sport. Held in the School Hall of New Bahru, a fashionable “lifestyle destination”, the event will combine padel sessions with a courtside lounge, welcoming experienced players and newcomers. Padel, like its American counterpart pickleball, is a fast-growing racquet sport that blends elements of tennis and squash. Usually played in doubles, the sport is synonymous with the social atmosphere that surrounds it. Recognising this, Audemars Piguet is hosting a courtside lounge to welcome those who are more interested in the social scene than scoring points on the court. Audemars Piguet formally got involved with padel back in May, announcing a global partnership as official timekeeper of the Qatar Airways Premier Padel Tour, alongside sponsorship of Agustín Tapia, one of the sport’s top players. The tour agreement includes courtside clocks and branding at tournaments. While major sports like tennis, golf, and Formula 1 are saturated with watch brand partnerships, emerging sports like padel represent something of a Greenfield opportunity, especially with a younger audience. But that’s changing as brands adapt the well-established sponsorship playbook to the new domain. Earlier this year, Rolex added Spanish padel star Arturo Coello to its circle of celebrities, and Frederique Constant became the official watch partner of the Pro Pa...

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H. Moser & Cie.’s Off-Grid Bares All SJX Watches
Breitling Aerospace debuted more than Sep 23, 2026

H. Moser & Cie.’s Off-Grid Bares All

Following last year’s Streamliner Alpine Mechanics Edition made for the Alpine F1 team, H. Moser & Cie has just released its second smartwatch, this time with a unique take on the genre. The Off-Grid offers a streamlined set of programmed complications designed to occupy in the space between a mechanical watch and a smartwatch. In doing so, the Off-Grid eschews common functions like health tracking and notifications, allowing its full feature set to be accessed with or without a smartphone connection. The offline theme explains its most unusual complication, a built-in dictionary of 10 words in each of 21 different languages. Initial thoughts At first glance, the 1980s-style ana-digi display may feel more at home in a G-Shock or Seiko ‘Arnie’ than a Swiss luxury watch, though Moser is hardly the first Swiss brand to give the format a go. The Breitling Aerospace debuted more than 40 years ago, and Omega later introduced the ana-digi Speedmaster X-33 in 1998. But unlike the aforementioned, Moser’s choice to put the module on show beneath a semi-open-worked dial is a unique approach and reveals the brand’s mechanical watchmaking instincts. With the Off-Grid, Moser is trying to find the middle ground between mechanical and electronic watchmaking that offers the benefits of both worlds but without all the downsides — like constant notifications and fast-draining batteries. The “Off-Grid” moniker sums up the effort, both in terms of its autonomy and its conceptua...

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Hands On: Blancpain Lady B SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre cal 101 which Sep 23, 2026

Hands On: Blancpain Lady B

The charming and compact Lady B extends Blancpain’s collection of elegant ladies watches while upholding the brand’s longstanding commitment to mechanical calibres. At just 19 mm in size and almost spherical in form, the Lady B contains an upmarket automatic movement that transcends the quartz-powered norms for this segment of watchmaking. Initial thoughts The Lady B is the spiritual successor to the Ladybird Bullet, which introduced the world’s smallest round mechanical movement when it debuted 70 years ago under the leadership of Betty Fiechter, the first woman to lead a major Swiss watch brand. The “round” qualifier is important because the smallest mechanical movement — then, as now — was the Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 101, which is still in production but in extremely limited numbers, and reserved for high jewellery collections. The Lady B (left) with the original Ladybird Bullet from 1956 The Lady B is larger than the vintage Bullet, but at just 19 mm it’s still small enough that the size is the main point of intrigue. The watch is almost spherical being 13 mm thick, but rather than feeling too thick this aspect gives the watch a charming bead-like feel similar to the original Bullet. The spherical feel is completed by the absence of conventional lugs; the Lady B instead features a pass-through channel for a selection of interchangeable straps. This hypothetically allows multiple Lady B’s to be “stacked” on the same strap for a jewellery-like look, b...

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