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Independent Watchmaker Sergey Chutov and His Fortress Collection Worn & Wound
Mar 6, 2024

Independent Watchmaker Sergey Chutov and His Fortress Collection

Not everyone has the courage to turn away from an established career, and take a risk on something that brings them joy. The watch industry is saturated with watches and watch brands focusing on every price point; from the powerhouses supported by the conglomerates they’re nestled under, to the independent and microbrands that have filled the market with innovation at a value cost, it can be hard for a new watchmaker to find their place. Sergey Chutov is an independent watchmaker that’s staking his claim, a fortress on a crowded battlefield, with pride, design, craft, and complex mechanics melting into the forge.  Until 2018, Sergey worked as a civil judge in Moscow. While going about his days he often found that his mind would drift to his passions. “One day I noticed that my thoughts were more occupied with watches than with legal work,” he told me. Eventually, Sergey made the decision to change the course of his life, and set down the path to gathering more knowledge about watches. “I spent 4 years learning how to make watches and honing my skills before making my first model,” he said.  That first model that Sergey is alluding to would be his Fortress I. There are currently five Fortress models that make up Sergey Chutov’s body of work. Each one with a similar DNA and evolving motif, with variations on movement, materials, and style. When I think of a “fortress” my mind goes to something cold and uninviting, but these watches, although arguably star...

Just A Minute With The Paulin Neos Worn & Wound
Mar 6, 2024

Just A Minute With The Paulin Neos

“Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but meaningful rundowns on everything you need to know. We continue to receive great feedback about this format and intend on creating more videos just for you. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. The Windup Watch Shop team is also available to schedule a consultation with you and answer any questions you have.  Today’s spotlight is on the Paulin Neos, a line of everyday watches that showcase Paulin’s creative and thoughtful design. Taken at face value, the Neos are 38mm watches with slim proportions, straightforward case and bezel designs, and automatic movements. But wow, look at those dials. Undoubtedly the stars of the show, the Neo’s dials can be configured in one of four ways: silver, orange, blue, or red, and each have their distinct character. The typography is custom-designed for the watch, and the execution is excellent across the board. Check out our video below to learn more about these vibrant watches and how Paulin has positioned the Neo as a fun and practical watch. To shop the Neo and all of our Paulin watches, click here! “Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but meaningful ru...

First Look – The Wondrous Beauty of the Louis Vuitton Escale Cabinet of Wonders Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Escale Cabinet Mar 6, 2024

First Look – The Wondrous Beauty of the Louis Vuitton Escale Cabinet of Wonders

Appointed director of Louis Vuitton Watches in 2021, Jean Arnault’s strategy to reposition the brand as an elite player involves a combination of technical audacity, refreshing design and an incredible devotion to traditional decorative techniques. Wielding the best tools, Arnault can count on the watchmaking wizardry of the brand’s in-house La Fabrique du Temps atelier […]

Louis Vuitton travels the world through the new Escale Cabinet of Wonders Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton travels Mar 6, 2024

Louis Vuitton travels the world through the new Escale Cabinet of Wonders

Three new limited editions are relaunching the Escale line at Louis Vuitton. Inspired by highly decorated tsubas (katana sword guards) collected by Gaston-Louis Vuitton. Utilising a plethora of métiers d’art techniques to depict three evocative creatures. Louis Vuitton continues its overhaul of its watch lines under the leadership of Jean Arnault, where the brand has … ContinuedThe post Louis Vuitton travels the world through the new Escale Cabinet of Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bulova Adds New References to their Surveyor Collection Worn & Wound
Bulova Adds New References Mar 6, 2024

Bulova Adds New References to their Surveyor Collection

When talking about value driven timepieces, it would be foolish to exclude Bulova from the conversation. From their Lunar series to their Precisionist line and their aptly nicknamed Devil divers, Bulova is one of the essential bang for your buck watch brands. Furthering their cause, they are launching 3 new colorways to their popular Surveyor collection, along with a special new gold-tone option.  There will now be a striking pistachio (light green) version, with a quick release brown leather strap and a dark green version on matching quick-release 3-link stainless-steel bracelet. Both will have silver-tone dial furniture and hands, while a new burgundy edition will have rose gold-tone accents and crown. The latter will also be supplied on a matching 3-link bracelet.  Along with these new stainless-steel models, as previously mentioned, there will be a fully gold-tone edition. This one will feature a stunning champagne dial, with cut-outs so that the wearer can admire the beating heart powering this timepiece. Not only are the watch and bracelet gold-tone, but the movement plates and rotor have been given the gold treatment as well.  All these new pieces share the same 39mm case, featuring sculpted edges and faceting, along with a mix of polished and brushed finishing. Topping these watches is a flat sapphire crystal, adorned with a date magnifier and they will be powered by a Japanese (Miyota) 21-jewel automatic movement that boasts a 42-hour power reserve. These vibra...

Breitling Goes Deep For Its Dark SuperOcean Automatic 44 UK Limited Edition Fratello
Breitling Goes Deep Mar 6, 2024

Breitling Goes Deep For Its Dark SuperOcean Automatic 44 UK Limited Edition

Hot off the heels of the stealthy Chronomat from February, Breitling brings another muted-tone beauty for March. The latest exclusive limited edition for the UK market is the SuperOcean Automatic 44. Like the aforementioned Chronomat, Breitling pairs this SuperOcean’s black dial with an anthracite hue. However, instead of chronograph counters, the SuperOcean features lacquered anthracite […] Visit Breitling Goes Deep For Its Dark SuperOcean Automatic 44 UK Limited Edition to read the full article.

First Look – The Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon “Poinçon de Genève” with a Plique-à-Jour Dial Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon “Poinçon Mar 6, 2024

First Look – The Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon “Poinçon de Genève” with a Plique-à-Jour Dial

In the past decade, the watch division of Louis Vuitton has been steadily expanding its foothold in haute horlogerie, a journey that commenced with acquiring movement specialist La Fabrique de Temps (LFT) about ten years ago. La Fabrique des Arts, another esteemed LV atelier within the LFT dedicated to curating metiers d’art, provided expertise and […]

Louis Vuitton Introduces Tourbillon with Plique-à-Jour Enamel Dial SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces Tourbillon Mar 6, 2024

Louis Vuitton Introduces Tourbillon with Plique-à-Jour Enamel Dial

Making full use of its recently established enamel workshop, Louis Vuitton debuts the Voyager Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève Plique-à-Jour. Equipped with a skeleton tourbillon movement bearing the Geneva Seal, the new Voyager features a dial of translucent enamel in a gold lattice that is similar to stained glass. Initial thoughts The Voyager tourbillon was unveiled in its original format in 2016. I examined the watch at the time, and came away impressed by both the design and finishing, though I felt it was pricey. The case was elegantly proportioned and sat particularly well on the wrist, being just over 9 mm tall. And the movement was surprisingly airy while having a high level of decoration equivalent to that found in establishment haute horlogerie names. The plique-à-jour is essentially the same thing but with an enamel dial. The thickness of the dial adds to the case height, bringing it to over 11 mm, so the new tourbillon doesn’t have the slimness but it remains an elegant watch. The artisanal dial does add another level of appeal, particularly since this enamel technique is not often used in watches, particularly on the large surface of entire dial. Personally I would have preferred colours other than blue and grey for the enamel, but geometric, repeating “V” motif of the dial is attractive. As for the price, well, this is an expensive watch, though arguably not as much as in 2016.. Louis Vuitton has come a long way since as a watchmaker, with the br...

Introducing: The Ominous Minase Horizon GEN DLC Limited Edition Fratello
Minase Mar 6, 2024

Introducing: The Ominous Minase Horizon GEN DLC Limited Edition

At Fratello, we have a particular taste for the creations of Japanese brand Minase. We have done two collaborations that seemed to resonate with many of you. Today, I would like to introduce you to another limited-edition Minase, though Fratello had no input this time. For this watch, Minase took its popular Horizon model and […] Visit Introducing: The Ominous Minase Horizon GEN DLC Limited Edition to read the full article.

Introducing The Latest Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT - The Follow-Up To The Brilliant First Version Of This Traveler’s Watch Fratello
Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT - Mar 6, 2024

Introducing The Latest Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT - The Follow-Up To The Brilliant First Version Of This Traveler’s Watch

If you are a regular reader of Fratello, you might be aware of my love for the Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT that came out last year. The black-dial limited edition of 200 pieces was one of my absolute favorites of 2023. It’s also a release that I unfortunately missed out on. However, the team […] Visit Introducing The Latest Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT - The Follow-Up To The Brilliant First Version Of This Traveler’s Watch to read the full article.

The Rolex Submariner, The “007 Prime Minister,” And A Cold War Mystery Fratello
Rolex Submariner Mar 6, 2024

The Rolex Submariner, The “007 Prime Minister,” And A Cold War Mystery

This is the story of how one prime minister’s love of the sea connected him with a senior Rolex executive and inspired the gift of a Rolex Submariner. That prime minister, Harold Holt, was the leader of Australia at the height of the Cold War. His mysterious disappearance shocked the world. On Sunday, December 17th, […] Visit The Rolex Submariner, The “007 Prime Minister,” And A Cold War Mystery to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Praesidus DD-45 - How Aged Do You Want Your Dirty Dozen? Fratello
Mar 5, 2024

Hands-On With The New Praesidus DD-45 - How Aged Do You Want Your Dirty Dozen?

Praesidus is one of the go-to names if you are looking for a vintage-inspired military watch. In a relatively short time, the brand has created a reputation for recreating some of the best military watches accompanied by great stories. Now Praesidus is ready to launch another new series of watches. The Praesidus DD-45 is inspired […] Visit Hands-On With The New Praesidus DD-45 - How Aged Do You Want Your Dirty Dozen? to read the full article.

Isotope Brings Back the Popular “Will Return” Diver in a New Colorway Worn & Wound
Isotope Brings Back Mar 5, 2024

Isotope Brings Back the Popular “Will Return” Diver in a New Colorway

Inspiration can come from anywhere, and Isotope knows it. Since the brand’s founding in 2016, they have shown a knack for mining ideas from interesting places, and backing up their funky designs and color schemes with genuine technical prowess. Over the last eight years, they’ve made watches inspired by exit signs, NASA, British judges’ robes, and even the ridiculousness of gender-specific watches.  But probably their most successful design came with the 2021 release of the “Will Return” Hydrium X Diver, a vibrant dive watch with a lume dial inspired by the “Closed, Will Return” signs found in shop windows all over the world. Now, as the promise of the name would suggest, the Will Return has, well, returned, albeit with some slight differences, and accompanied by a ridiculously cool wall clock. The new “Will Return Red” plays off the format of the 2021 release but makes a few changes. The biggest and boldest is that the blue bezel has been swapped out for a bright red one. The hands have been updated slightly, forfeiting the white border. There’s no blue to be found on the watch head, but the black FKM tropic-style rubber strap from the original release has been swapped for a light blue strap of the same construction. Ignoring the new colorway, the Will Return Red is the same watch Isotope has been making for the last few years. That’s a good thing, because despite the colorful and fun look of the Isotope, at its core the Hydrium X Diver is a properl...

First Look – The Studio Ghibli x Seiko Presage SPB437 Caught Me by Surprise, in a Good Way! Monochrome
Seiko Presage SPB437 Caught Me Mar 5, 2024

First Look – The Studio Ghibli x Seiko Presage SPB437 Caught Me by Surprise, in a Good Way!

As someone working in the industry seeing hundreds if not thousands of watches each year, I often label a watch as a potential “yes” or “no” based on a press release or a couple of images. I’m sure, to some extent, that the same goes for collectors and enthusiasts. Sometimes, I’ll dismiss a watch for […]

Marathon Introduces a New Steel Navigator with an Automatic Movement Worn & Wound
Marathon Mar 5, 2024

Marathon Introduces a New Steel Navigator with an Automatic Movement

If you want immediate Watch Nerd cred with something coming in at around the $1,000 price point or less, there are a handful of options for any budding (or experienced) watch enthusiast. Seiko, of course. G-SHOCK, too. And you can have your pick from many great microbrands, including Lorier, Baltic, and Brew, and too many others to name. If your tastes veer toward the tactical, however, and you happen to be a lume connoisseur, Marathon is (somehow) still under the radar, makes a high quality, well designed watch that just about anyone who has been around the horological block will appreciate. Their newest release, an automatic version of their 41mm Steel Navigator, takes a classic Marathon silhouette and gives it an automatic movement.  Marathon has been manufacturing timing instruments of all kinds for various militatires since the 1940s, and the Navigator case, with its familiar asymmetrical shape, will scream “issued military watch” to many collectors. The original Steel Navigator traces its roots to the 1980s, when it was developed in partnership with Kelly Air Force Base for use by pilots. Everything about the design is function first – this is a pure tool watch if there ever was one. It’s got a 12 hour bezel for foolproof tracking of a second time zone, a two-tiered hour track with a 12 and interior 24 hour scale, a 41mm case crafted from stainless steel without a polished surface in sight, and, maybe most notably, an array of tritium tubes on the dial and h...