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The Roundup: A 90’s Throwback Zodiac, A Bold Tissot, and A Mini Knife That Packs A Big Punch Worn & Wound
Tissot Oct 10, 2023

The Roundup: A 90’s Throwback Zodiac, A Bold Tissot, and A Mini Knife That Packs A Big Punch

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something special up for you, a loved one, or a friend!  Also, don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop’s rewards program to earn points with every purchase and save. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something special up for you, a loved one, or a friend!  Also, don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop’s rewards program to earn points with every purchase and save. The post The Roundup: A 90’s Throwback Zodiac, A Bold Tissot, and A Mini Knife That Packs A Big Punch appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Ming’s Latest, the 37.07 Monolith, is a Subdued Update of Last Year’s Mosaic Worn & Wound
Ming Oct 10, 2023

Ming’s Latest, the 37.07 Monolith, is a Subdued Update of Last Year’s Mosaic

Ming’s latest, the 37.07 Monolith, is a more restrained take on the 37.07 Mosaic released last year to celebrate the brand’s fifth anniversary. That Mosaic, like so many of Ming’s watches, is all about how different elements of the watch play with light. We see this is the watch’s key components, particularly with the lume on the dial and the meticulous finishing of Ming’s cases. The 37.07 Monolith, like the 17.06 Monolith before it, is effectively an inversion of these ideas. The case is blacked out and doesn’t feature a hint of high polish, and the dial is, almost literally, a shadow of last year’s watch. It’s a different vibe for Ming, and a reminder that the brand’s canvas can accommodate a range of styles and textures.  The idea with the 37.07, according to Ming, was to carry their design language into a more utilitarian state. They call it a “palate cleanser” in their press materials – a watch that can be worn without having to worry about it too much. This is largely achieved through a total transformation of the case, giving the lug tops, bezel, and crown a bead blasting treatment, while the case flanks the the case back retain the brushing that is common to most Ming references. Because there are still multiple finishes employed on the case, we don’t completely lose the sense of drama and feeling that every detail has been accounted for – everything is just an order of magnitude more subtle and reserved.  If you recall last year’s M...

Visiting the F.P. Journe Manufacture SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Oct 10, 2023

Visiting the F.P. Journe Manufacture

I recently had the opportunity to see how the philosophy of “in-house” plays out in real life with a behind-the-scenes tour of the F.P. Journe manufacture in Geneva, and its newly opened case and dial factory in Meyrin, Les Cadraniers de Genève (CDG) and Les Boîtiers de Genève (BDG). The tour was impressive in its thoroughness and transparency. Montres Journe, the entity that makes F.P. Journe watches, comprises three entities at two sites in the Geneva metro area. The first is the F.P. Journe manufacture in downtown Geneva – incidentally not far from the Patek Philippe Museum – where all F.P. Journe movements are designed and manufactured, and where all watches are finished, assembled, and tested. The reception room at the Geneva manufacture. When F.P. Journe launched in 1999, this room was the entire production space for the brand, which subsequently acquired the rest of the building. The original production space is now a reception area and home to a portion of the Jean-Claude Sabrier library, acquired in 2015. The other two entities are Les Cadraniers de Genève (CDG) and Les Boîtiers de Genève (BDG) – which translate literally as “The Dial Makers of Geneva” and “The Case Makers of Geneva”. The two recently moved into a new building where CDG makes dials for F.P. Journe as well as third-party clients like Vacheron Constantin, Laurent Ferrier, and numerous other elite brands, while in contrast BDG makes cases and bracelets exclusively for F.P. Jou...

Rexhep Rexhepi, The Remarkable Journey of the Horological Prodigy Revolution
Rexhep Rexhepi Oct 10, 2023

Rexhep Rexhepi, The Remarkable Journey of the Horological Prodigy

Rexhep Rexhepi, renowned as a formidable watchmaker and horological prodigy, solidified his reputation through a remarkable journey. His exceptional career took a significant turn when he joined one of contemporary watchmaking giants, Francois-Paul Journe. In 2012, at the young age of 25, Rexhepi embarked on his horological odyssey by establishing Akrivia, a watchmaking studio bearing […]

Grail Watches: The Holy Trinity (Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin) – And What is a ‘Grail Watch’ Anyway? – Reprise Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Oct 10, 2023

Grail Watches: The Holy Trinity (Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin) – And What is a ‘Grail Watch’ Anyway? – Reprise

“The Holy Trinity,” as any watch nerd knows, refers to the triumvirate of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin. Colin Smith takes a look at what we mean – or think we mean - when we describe PP, AP, and VC as the “Holy Trinity” of watchmaking and when we describe a timepiece as our “grail watch.”

Hands On: Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Oct 10, 2023

Hands On: Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie

In an unexpected movement, Louis Vuitton and Akrivia have just announced the Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie. Reflecting the collaborative nature of the watch, it has two faces – the tinted sapphire dial for the time and a fired enamel dial on the back for the chronograph. The LVRR-01 also boasts an unusual combination of complications: a chronograph with a chiming mechanism that strikes once every elapsed minute, along with a five-minute tourbillon – and a constant-force gear train. [NB: The watch pictured is one of two prototypes so the finishing, particularly the cleanliness of the movement, is not up to par.] Technically-minded enthusiasts will appreciate the sophistication of the movement, since the chronograph and sonnerie are driven by secondary barrel and going train that is effectively a one-minute constant force mechanism. Limited to 10 watches, the LVRR-01 is the first of a series of five collaborative projects between Louis Vuitton and independent watchmakers. The next project will be revealed in a year’s time, with the subsequent projects following the same annual timetable. Initial thoughts The LVRR-01 has the heft and gleam of a finely made watch. The chamfered edges on the platinum case immediately catch the eye, particularly because of the contrast with the brushed surfaces, and then the movement finishing becomes apparent through sapphire crystal. In fact, the smoked sapphire crystal perhaps obscures too much of the...

The Louis Vuitton x Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie proves Louis Vuitton is a safe haven for independent watchmaking Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton x Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe Oct 9, 2023

The Louis Vuitton x Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie proves Louis Vuitton is a safe haven for independent watchmaking

A partnership between Louis Vuitton and Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia marks the inaugural entry of Louis Vuitton's collaborative series with independent watchmakers.The post The Louis Vuitton x Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie proves Louis Vuitton is a safe haven for independent watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MAEN Launches the Third Version of their Skymaster 38 with a New Movement and a Surprising Collaborator Worn & Wound
Maen Oct 9, 2023

MAEN Launches the Third Version of their Skymaster 38 with a New Movement and a Surprising Collaborator

MAEN Watches has relaunched their vintage inspired Skymaster 38 chronograph over the weekend, adding three new updated references to the collection, including a surprising limited edition. The Skymaster feels like a watch right in MAEN’s wheelhouse: a sports watch with an aesthetic that’s clearly inspired by the past, but executed at an incredibly high level with a surprising level of detail, all at a price point that makes these watches tough to ignore. I spent some time recently with MAEN’s Brooklyn 36 reference, an old school triple calendar, and was pleasantly surprised at the level of refinement on a watch that comes in at well under $1,000. The Skymaster, now in a MKIII version, contains many similar small details. There are two big changes with this third edition of the Skymaster 38. First, the watch now runs on the new Sellita SW510Mb manually wound movement, and the case has gone through a series of little adjustments to properly house it. Previous versions of the Skymaster used automatic movements, so the inclusion of a manually wound caliber here represents a significant change, and really plays into the heritage angle of a release like this.  Secondly, in addition to offering a 12 hour bezel, MAEN is now making the Skymaster with an optional tachymeter bezel as well. The more prominent tachymeter bezel changes the appearance of the Skymaster dramatically, and should prove popular with collectors who are after a more traditionally styled racing chronograp...

Nomos Brings Back the Classic Club with Some Subtle Upgrades Worn & Wound
Nomos Brings Back Oct 9, 2023

Nomos Brings Back the Classic Club with Some Subtle Upgrades

I’m a firm believer that entry-level models often show the true essence of a brand. It’s the first point of contact for many buyers and, therefore, is a good representation of the design elements, quality, and creativity that define a company’s offerings. This is no different for NOMOS Glashütte’s Club model. The German brand has redesigned the watch in its original colorway, which has been out of production since 2017, with a revamped appearance, while keeping all the beloved elements of the reference intact. The watch itself keeps much of the distinguishing features that have made the Club a classic for those looking for an entree into NOMOS. The open space on the silver-plated dial is complemented by dark gray numerals (a shade darker than its previous iteration) and a broader, longer set of hands. The numerals are also accented with lumed outlines, making it easy to read throughout the day and well into the night. The final touch of the dial is the minute track, which is positioned well into the boundaries of the numerals, making the dial feel that much more open and spacious. It is this combination of upgrades: a brighter dial, larger hands, and lumed numerals, which have made small – yet significant – upgrades to the Club model and has pushed the brand into a new audience set who has been vying to enter into the luxury watch market and just needed the right invitation to do so. This is a handsome watch at just 36mm, making it a great addition to anyone...

Unimatic Modello Uno Gets Serious About Diving with New U1S-PD3 & U1S-PD5 Worn & Wound
Unimatic Oct 9, 2023

Unimatic Modello Uno Gets Serious About Diving with New U1S-PD3 & U1S-PD5

Unimatic’s enigmatic dive watch, the Modello Uno, is largely celebrated for its simple design that’s almost conceptual in nature, with minimal representative elements that deconstruct the normal design cues we expect from such a watch. They are beautiful as a result, but never quite rose to the realm of practical dive watch. Unimatic captures an experience, and they do so quite effectively. If you enjoy the Unimatic vibe, but need something a little more performance oriented, their latest releases within the Modello Uno range look to cover new ground. These are the ProDivers references, the U1S-PD3 and U1S-PD5, pairing Unimatic design to a more funcion driven platform.  The pair of watches are straightforward in nature, but instantly recognizable as Unimatic thanks to their strong design language. In practice, these watches bring a lot to the table, and for the first time feel like a viable option as ‘tool’ divers. The biggest step is the inclusion of a fully indexed bezel for measuring elapsed time, a departure from the generally sterile bezel units fitted to these watches. Additionally, the robust case design, which is rated to 300 meters in the PD3, and to 500 meters in the PD5, are presented in a new slimmer package underneath a 2.5mm thick double-domed sapphire crystal. A redesigned crown tube with locking system allows for the impressive depth ratings in both cases. Both watches utilize a 40mm steel case that measures 41.5mm at the width of the 120 click bez...

The Citizen Eco-Drive 365 presents a brand new movement with a year-long power reserve Time+Tide
Citizen Eco-Drive 365 presents Oct 9, 2023

The Citizen Eco-Drive 365 presents a brand new movement with a year-long power reserve

Citizen has developed an all new Caliber E365 Eco-Drive movement, bringing a year of running time on a full charge The Citizen Eco -Drive 365 is releasing in three new models, one of which is a limited edition based on the original Citizen Quartz EFA from the 1973 The Eco-Drive 365 is the latest watch … ContinuedThe post The Citizen Eco-Drive 365 presents a brand new movement with a year-long power reserve appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Only Watch Reveals Details About Financials and Research SJX Watches
Oct 9, 2023

Business News: Only Watch Reveals Details About Financials and Research

After a unnervingly long wait, Only Watch issued a detailed statement explaining its activities and financials in response to allegations on social media about financial improprieties. While some of the allegations were unfounded, some were useful questions that had to be asked. Fortunately, the statement by Only Watch is not only comprehensive but also promises more to come (once the audited statements are prepared by KPMG Monaco in response to a recently promulgated law in the principality where Only Watch is based). More is certainly needed, but for now the response from Only Watch will quiet reasonable observers. Initial thoughts When the accusations about wrongdoings at Only Watch first emerged on social media, I was sceptical because by and large I believe in Only Watch (I even bought one of the Only Watch timepieces several years ago, albeit an inexpensive one). That said, I could see why such questions came about. The event has become extremely high profile and its founder, Luc Pettavino, a celebrity seemingly dressed in over the top jackets all the time. This all unsurprisingly led to criticism. Still, the fundamental purpose of the auction felt like a genuine cause. I did think some of the questions raised on social media were germane. I expected a swift response from Only Watch, but that took what seemed like a long, long time. Now the reply has arrived and it contains sufficient information that I am reassured, as I think most observers will be. Amongst the not...

The Bōken Nomad combines grade 2 titanium and a Swiss-made movement Time+Tide
Oct 9, 2023

The Bōken Nomad combines grade 2 titanium and a Swiss-made movement

Like many new microbrands, Bōken was created from a desire to do good in an industry that has only recently become interested in conservation efforts, alongside making great watches, of course. Built with a brushed titanium case and housed in a contemporary cushion shape, the Bōken Nomad takes a premium position within the microbrand realm by … ContinuedThe post The Bōken Nomad combines grade 2 titanium and a Swiss-made movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.