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Zenith introduces a striking new reinterpretation of the historic Defy Revival for Watches & Wonders 2023. An evolution of the vintage look of previous editions, the Shadow boasts full lightweight titanium construction for both the case and bracelet. The titanium gets a microblasted matte finish that renders the material a stealthy dark grey. I’ve been … ContinuedThe post The Zenith Defy Revival Shadow cuts a super-spy profile appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Esquire Talking Watches With Succession’s Prop Master Monica Jacobs Via Esquire In one of the most recent Succession episodes, hearing Kendall Roy describe their new media-venture called The Hundred as, “Substack meets Masterclass meets the Economist meets the New Yorker.” remains as one of the many chuckle-worthy lines we’ve heard during this season thus far. Almost every character is capable of delivering such a line, especially Roman Roy, Tom Wambsgans and Greg Hirsch. Especially Greg. But in addition to the witty writing and awesome plot, as watch enthusiasts, it’s hard not to pay attention to what’s on the wrists of our favorite characters. Via Esquire In a recent Esquire interview, Prop Master Monica Jacobs spills all the details as to how some of these very particular, highly-specific watches made their way onto the show. The interview also digs into how each watch is chosen and how the character’s personality is reflected upon the watch they wear. For example, why does Roman Roy wear Rolex all the time, and what’s with Logan Roy sticking wi...

In the world of horological journalism, where centuries-old companies lord over a multi-billion dollar industry and push the boundaries of mechanical engineering and art simultaneously, it’s pretty much considered a crime to write a pun into your articles. If you ask me, it’s a total waste of time. Most writers would never stoop that low, … ContinuedThe post Why watch puns tick me off appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches and Wonders 2023 ran from Monday, March 27 to Saturday, April 1 at Palexpo in Geneva and was open to the public on the 1st and 2nd of April. It attracted a record 43,000 visitors! That’s nearly double last year’s 22,000 visitors, largely thanks to the opening up of China and Asian countries after the COVID-19 pandemic. The Quill & Pad team was there, and we sat down after the show to discuss what we liked and didn’t like about the 2023 fair.

Five watches from the Hodinkee Shop that are old enough to drink.

Parmigiani Fleurier is a watchmaking company that seeks to combine the traditional with innovation. Here are the latest releases in the Tonda collection.

MoonSwatch took Manhattan with a new differentiating detail, and we were on the scene to see it.

During the golden age of air travel, all seats on a plane were pretty much first-class seats. At the dawn of intercontinental flight, travellers dressed for the occasion, and the experience was much more genteel, even elegant, especially when compared with today’s post-apocalyptic hellscape. Sadly, modern flying has become a soul-crushing exercise, with stressed-out travellers … ContinuedThe post Flight club: Fly first class with these 5 upscale pilot’s chronographs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A special edition of the Zenith Chronomaster Revival based on anime character Lupin the Third has recently launched, the Chronomaster Revival Lupin The Third Final Edition. It is the last of the three editions since 2019 and in Joshua Munchow's opinion it is the most striking one yet.

Despite the age of the watchmaking trade, there aren’t too many brands that can boast 200 years of history. Those that do often have insular development, still operating from within their small town beginnings and sometimes run by the original family. The story of Bovet is much more diverse, including a multitude of characters and … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The history of Bovet, a contemporary brand with impeccable old-world credentials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

If you ever lose a watch at Mosman’s Balmoral beach in Sydney, it would seem there is a particular family you need to call to increase your odds of its retrieval. The Daily Mail reported that an elderly British man lost his 1975 Cartier Santos watch while visiting the Sydney beach, but thankfully enlisted a … ContinuedThe post 10-year-old treasure hunter at a Sydney beach reunites lost 1975 Cartier Santos with its owner appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

High complications are not something we would typically associate with Panerai - however that could all be about to change with the introduction of their first annual calendar movement.The post The Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar is a first for the brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Stephen Nichols shares not three, but four watches, and somehow still manages to stay under budget. This collection is a testament to micro-brands bringing something a little different to the table, and highlights just how far you can stretch your budget on some truly awesome watches. Stephen was even kind enough to provide his own photography of the watches, so all credit to @talkingabouttime for the imagery within. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here.  The old adage, “anything worth doing is worth overdoing,” is as true to watch collecting as it is to anything else. Thankfully, you don’t have to skimp on quality and design for a three-watch collection even when you’re on a budget. Micro-brands are offering up more than just great value, they’re giving us a personalized experience on top of it. Go to a watch fair or slide into a brand’s DMs, and chances are good you’ll be greeted by a dreamer who’s just itching to show you what they’ve made and why they made it. You can score an incredible watch that matches your style and also tells a personal story about the designer. Here’s a list of three, ok maybe four watches that deliver huge value for under $5,000. Watches that I’d be proud to add to my personal collection. Typsim – 200M – $1,199 How do you capture the charm of a vintage diver in a modern packag...

Of course the watch spotting was solid but there were also some great fits on display during this year's big trade show.

The Panerai Radiomir California is their first California dial in a 45mm case. For the first time, Panerai have experimented with a faux-aged PVD case. The green and gilt dial gives the watch a lot of old-world charm thanks to modern techniques. Panerai haven’t been the fastest brand to pick up on new trends historically, … ContinuedThe post The Panerai Radiomir California offers a more compact take on their classic dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Small changes make for a thinner, slimmer Tank Américaine

Among the new releases from Panerai at this year’s Watches & Wonders, we find what amounts to a first from the brand: a pair of annual calendars. While Panerai has dabbled in perpetual calendars, the annual calendar compilation is a new venture. This has always felt like an under-appreciated complication to me in an environment where perpetual calendars tend to get all the plaudits. For the relatively minor inconvenience of having to make a manual adjustment to the calendar on the first day of March, you get a calendar complication that’s very nearly “set it and forget it” at what often amounts to a significant discount over comparable perpetuals. While these new Panerais aren’t exactly rubbing up against the value end of the spectrum (they are both well into the five figures, with cases in precious metals), they do represent something genuinely new in the Panerai catalog, which is always going to be of interest to the brand’s dedicated base of collectors.  The new annual calendars are both found in the Radiomir collection, which is Panerai’s sleeker case design (compared to the Luminor) with vintage style wire lugs and a squared off cushion case shape. Gold and platinum options are available (Panerai refers to their alloys as “Goldtech” and “Platinumtech”) and the cases measure 45mm in diameter. Panerai enthusiasts and collectors will tell you that a 45mm Radiomir case wears quite a bit smaller than the numbers would indicate, because thanks to the ...

One of the most talked about releases this year came courtesy of IWC in the form of a new Ingenieur that takes the watch back to its Gerald Genta design era of history. You can see our hands-on impressions of that watch right here. The new watches take clear inspiration from the 1970s footprint, but offer a quite contemporary execution that won’t be mistaken for anything throwback. But that’s not all people were discussing at their year’s Watches & Wonders, the IWC booth made one of the biggest impressions of the whole fair, setting a funky ‘70s engineering aesthetic against the new watches, which even included a Mercedes C-111 mkIII concept car right in the booth.  During our visit to the booth, we ran into IWC CEO (and Worn & Wound Podcast alum) Chris Grainger, who gave us the scoop on the new watches and the booth itself. This watch was a long time coming, as you might imagine, and Chris takes us through some of the development of the design we see today. Oh, and those crown guards? It seems that we’re the only ones that spent any real time stressing about them. See more of our coverage of Watches & Wonders 2023 right here, and head over to our YouTube channel for more of our video content. The post In Discussion: We Chat With Chris Grainger Inside the IWC Booth at Watches & Wonders appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The Junghans Meister S Chronoscope is now available with a blue dial. The 45mm watch is fully featured with 200m of water resistance. Its style is a great blend between dressy sophistication and all-out sports utility. Junghans first released the Meister S Chronoscope in 2020, and in hindsight it’s hard to believe that it’s taken … ContinuedThe post The Junghans Meister S Chronoscope blends dressy sophistication with all-out sports utility appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

We take a look at a camera which was loaned to us for two weeks - the new Sony A7RV with two lenses - a 90mnm macro and a general purpose zoom.

Today we enter the world of the Hublot Big Bang, yes that’s right, Hublot one of the most polarising watch brands on the market. They were made famous by the likes of Jay-Z whose lyrics: ”I’m still the man to watch, Hublot on my left hand or not” and his Hublot-centric collection outline his continued … ContinuedThe post Big Watches, Small Wrists Part 6: Hublot big love appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Trinity Tyrannosaurus Rex skeleton is the first to be auctioned in Europe. And Urwerk have created the unique piece UR-105 Trinity especially for the 'Out of this World' auction in Zurich.

Maybe unsurprising given the state of the industry – watchmakers enjoyed record sales in 2022 – value buys were few at Watches & Wonders (W&W;) this year. Amongst the independent watchmakers, just two stood out for being value buys, the Kudoke 3 and Urwerk UR-102 “Reloaded” – both of which I covered in my highlights amongst the indies. Not quite an independent watchmaker but niche nonetheless, Louis Erard stands out for the Excellence Marqueterie. Probably the best value amongst its many limited editions, the Excellence Marqueterie brings the art of wood marquetry to a previously unheard of price segment. Although it costs only about US$4,000, the Excellence Marqueterie features a dial decorated with tiny pieces of exotic wood that have been sawn and applied by hand to form an M.C. Escher-like pattern. The Excellence Marqueterie. Image – Louis Erard Like most other niche brands, Louis Erard exhibited outside the halls of W&W;, where all of the establishment brands were located. Amongst the big names, only Tudor offered substantial value with its new models, although that is not news in itself since value is a fundamental characteristic of the brand. (Though it is arguable that Rolex offers strong value in all its models regardless of price, but certainly not as much as Tudor.) Two watches stood out amongst Tudor’s 2023 line-up. One is the Black Bay 54, a watch clearly conceived by aficionados with an eye for detail. Just 37 mm in diameter, it resembles a vinta...

As you all know very well, it was all about Watches & Wonders last week. The team, both live on the ground and back at HQ, were working round the clock to bring you all the latest and greatest from the fair. It was an experience that was incredibly exhausting, but also incredibly rewarding.   … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Watches & Wonders 2023 Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Because it was the world’s biggest watch brands showing off their latest products at Watches & Wonders (W&W;), surprises seemed unlikely. Yet there were a few surprises at the fair, with several coming from the most conservative brand of all, Rolex, which debuted the now infamous “Bubbles” and “Puzzle”. But the unexpected aside, the fair also saw a number of well-executed new models that were just right, most notably from Cartier, which stuck to what it does well. The Tank Normale in yellow gold with a matching bracelet Surprises A surprise launch, but certainly not unexpected as a highlight, is the Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time ref. 5224R. Although it appears to be a typical Calatrava at a distance, the ref. 5224R is elegantly different. For one, it is surprisingly large for a Calatrava at 42 mm but typically thin at under 9 mm. The ref. 5224R More unusual is the 24-hour display that is a convenient and smart method of showing two time zones without the need for a day and night indicator. But as is often the case with Patek Philippe, the novelty of the watch was not invented. Its key features, namely the time display and case size, are rooted in history – the watch is modelled on the oversized Chronometro Gondolo pocket watches of the early 20th century. But at over US$57,000, the ref. 5224R is unusually expensive for a two-time zone watch, though that is explained in part by the high-end movement inside that’s shared with the top-of-t...

As is often the case when the wider industry is doing well, independent watchmaking is on fire. This was illustrated by the numerous and diverse exhibitors, many of them brand-new entrants, showing their wares alongside Watches & Wonders in Geneva. But as is often the case when independent watchmaking is on fire, quantity far exceeded quality, and the good and great were rare. Not wanting to go up against brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe for eyeballs (and also because most independent marques now enjoy long, long waitlists), many watchmakers didn’t launch anything new. Some talented watchmakers are merely making slow but steady progress, like Yosuke Sekiguchi, the Japanese watchmaker based in Switzerland who presented the final version of his Primevère along with new dial variants for the same. One of the best new launches is not really a new model, but it’s good enough it deserves a top spot on the list. The F.P. Journe FFC is the regular production version of the unique FFC Blue made for charity auction Only Watch in 2021. Indicating the time with a five-fingered hand, the time display is simple but driven by a clever and complex movement, illustrating the brilliance of its creator. Granted it costs CHF820,000 before taxes, which is probably too much even considering the complication. But according to Mr Journe, the movement is complex enough that it can only be assembled and adjusted by a watchmaker who is otherwise working on the Astronomic grand complication....

Grand Seiko has attracted a wide base of watch enthusiasts to their products. Previously an underdog trying to break through in regions outside of Japan, there has to be some special quality to the DNA of their watches to garner attention away from usual suspects like Rolex and Omega. Irrefutably the special ingredient in the … ContinuedThe post Understanding Grand Seiko design at a deeper level with GS designer Akira Yoshida appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.