Hodinkee
Hey, HODINKEE!: Long Form: Is A Tourbillon A 'Complication?'
A simple question with a complicated answer.
Hodinkee
A simple question with a complicated answer.
SJX Watches
With 2022 being the Year of the Tiger in the Chinese Zodiac, tiger-themed watches started to proliferate since late last year. One of the most striking tiger-themed watches is also one of the most discreet, revealing its roaring tiger only on the reverse. The Reverso Tribute Enamel “Tiger” is a sharp but simple on the front, while its reverse depicts a tiger leaping out of the clouds. Unusually, the decoration combines both enamel and engraving, making it more elaborate than the typical enamelled Reverso. Initial thoughts The quintessential enamelled Reverso is a miniature painting in polychrome enamel – a specialty of Jaeger-LeCoultre since the 1990s. The Reverso “Tiger” in contrast, is a stately black and gold. Even though the “Tiger” dials back on the colours, it is a striking and beautiful watch. The simplicity at a distance gives away to detail when you examine the roaring tiger on the back, which is executed in low relief. It leaps out of a black background that is actually fired enamel. At the same time, this combination of figurative engraving in addition to enamel is a first for Jaeger-LeCoultre, at least in recent years, making the “Tiger” a rather special watch. Naturally the elaborate decoration comes at a price – €90,000 before taxes to be exact. That’s about US$100,000 and about the same as past Reverso models with miniature enamel paintings. Delicate work The engraved tiger takes form after the back has been enamelled. So the process ...
Hodinkee
The young TAG Heuer CEO has trained his eye on the future: "We can't rely on Steve McQueen for decades to come."
Time+Tide
Sometimes I wonder if I will ever watch a movie or any piece of film without my eyes searching the screen for a watch. On multiple occasions, I’ve stopped a movie mid-way just to find out what’s on an actor’s wrist. And today, it feels like I’ve hit a new low. Not even an action-movie … ContinuedThe post Jason Statham wears a green dial Panerai Radiomir in Guy Ritchie’s latest flick appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Louis Erard releases their new Excellence Petite Seconde Terracotta. This very classical looking watch has a dial with earthy colours in two case sizes.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: The Time+Tide team reviewed hundreds of watches in 2021. This month we’ve been counting down the Top 30 reviews of the year that you liked best, on the basis of the online traffic. As we near the summit, it’s the Seiko SBDY077 Tuna x Neighborhood at number 2… Sexy red details combined with vintage … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – Seiko SBDY077 Tuna x Neighborhood (#2) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Hublot have never had any issues with realising bold, eyeball-grabbing designs and exploring a range of colours and materials that other brands have yet to even attempt to tackle. But sometimes two minds are greater than one. Once again, Hublot has partnered with Swiss tattoo artist Maxine Plescia-Buchi to continue their saga of Sang Bleu … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Hublot launches three new scratch-resistant iterations of the Big Bang Sang Bleu II in ceramic and Magic Gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Unless you’ve been marooned on a desert island for the past several years, you’re probably all too aware of the rainbow colourway boom in the horological world. And let’s face it, some of these timepieces are, shall we say, aesthetically more harmonious than others. For every rainbow Daytona out there, there are twice as many … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy 21 Chroma Limited Edition brings rainbow vibes to 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s Note: Audemars Piguet did not hold back this week, starting off 2022 with a revamped Royal Oak Collection in honour of the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak. So we’re offering a quick overview of all the new novelties we are allowed to share from the AP Social Club event – touching on each new reference … ContinuedThe post All of the 42 new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 50th anniversary releases of 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Because there are eight sides to every great story.
Quill & Pad
If you’ve been watching the 2022 Australian Open (as Elizabeth Doerr has), you may be wondering about the prominent watch seen on Rafael Nadal’s right wrist (he’s left-handed), which has been a constant companion no matter what he’s doing – even while playing his grueling matches on court. It's a Richard Mille RM 27-04 with an innovative mesh tennis-string-style "plate" as Elizabeth explains here.
Hodinkee
It's an anniversary renovation, from the dial to the movement.
Hodinkee
The 38mm and 41mm offerings get subtle tweaks for the Royal Oak's 50th birthday.
Hodinkee
Breaking: Big watches covered with big stones.
Hodinkee
AP goes X-ray.
Hodinkee
The first openworked Jumbos in eight years, and my, they're eye-openers.
Hodinkee
A classic Royal Oak Complication gets some subtle enhancements.
Hodinkee
The peak Royal Oak hits the half-century mark with a whole new reference. It's a mild but meaningful upgrade to a bona fide icon.
SJX Watches
Alongside the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202, Audemars Piguet has just unveiled the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked Ref. 16204 for the 50th anniversary of its iconic octagonal watch. The skeleton “Jumbo” is naturally offered with a brand-new movement, the cal. 7124. Extra revealing and extra thin – even thinner than the cal. 7121 found in the standard “Jumbo” – the cal. 7124 boasts a striking, cohesive aesthetic thanks to having been designed from the ground up as an open-worked calibre. The steel variant with a low-key, almost monochromatic palette Initial thoughts Striking, original, and impressive, the “Jumbo” Openworked is clearly a cut above standard “Jumbo” ref. 16202. It is arguably a more comprehensive upgrade over the equivalent, earlier-generation model than the ref. 16202, given the nature of the new calibre. Everything attractive about a skeleton Royal Oak can be found in the “Jumbo” Openworked, namely the meticulous hand finish of an ultra-thin movement inside the elegantly flat and wide case. The visual details of the earlier-generation skeleton movement that were unappealing – namely the meandering bridges that seemed almost messy – have been eliminated. Instead, the cal. 7124 brings with it an architecture that’s contemporary and geometric with strong, flowing lines, while remaining intricate enough to capture the feel of an old-school skeletonised movement. Starting at US$90,400 in steel and rising ...
Time+Tide
Anniversaries are monumental moments in all aspects of life and they’re certainly no different in watchmaking. It has been no secret that this year marks the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak, originally conceived by Gérald Genta and manufactured by Audemars Piguet in 1972, and that a successor of some form was on the horizon. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202 with new in-house calibre 7121 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet’s opening act of the year is straightforward but significant: the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202. Created to mark the 50th anniversary of its quintessential octagonal watch, the new “Jumbo” is arguably the first truly new version of the original Royal Oak, as it contains a latest-generation movement. the cal. 7121 replaces the cal. 2120/2121 that’s been in service since 1972. Naturally the ref. 16202 makes it debut in the quintessential combination of a blue-grey dial and steel case. And the line up also includes three precious metal versions that are arguably more striking (and certainly more expensive). The cal. 7121 Initial thoughts With the retirement of the ref. 15202 announced last year, an all-new Royal Oak “Jumbo” became inevitable. And the fact that this year is the 50th anniversary of the model makes it even more so. It happened and fortunately, the new “Jumbo” lives up to expectations. It’s still very much the same – the case dimensions remains unchanged – but revamped just enough to it a substantively new watch in technical terms. And then there are the gorgeous smoked dial finishes, which set it apart from past models and make it the “Jumbo” of the 21st century. Especially delicious in yellow gold The highlight of the ref. 16202 is the cal. 7121. Still ultra thin like its predecessor, the cal. 7121 boasts a modern construction that promises superior timekeeping over a longer period as well as better r...
Hodinkee
And it does not stop there; check out everything in this week's vintage drop now.
SJX Watches
Independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès is best known for the Soberly Onyx, which housed a highly-decorated movement that was originally a humble Cyma. His latest creation however, marks a significant step forward – a movement he developed and largely manufactures himself. A time-only watch with some fascinating details, the Régulateur à détente RP1 serves as a strong testament to Mr Pagès’ capabilities: it has a regulator display while the movement has a detent escapement of his own design. And of course, it is finished to the same high standard as his earlier work – or perhaps even better. Initial thoughts The RP1 is intriguing in many ways. It is well-executed both in terms of technical features and finish. The most obvious element that sets it apart is the detent escapement. Due to the technical quirks in implementation, the detent escapement is an uncommon regulation mechanism that contrasts with the Swiss lever escapement that is ubiquitous even at the highest end of watchmaking. It is clear that Mr Pagès designed the movement around the escapement, as the movement bridges expose enough to proudly showcase the mechanism. But the RP1 isn’t only about the movement, as its qualities appear all-encompassing, as demonstrated by the equally well-finished dial. Despite the simple appearance at a glance, the regulator dial is replete with fine finishing details. While the colour scheme may be too quirky for some, I wouldn’t be surprised if Mr Pages accedes to re...
Revolution
A one of a kind tribute to the Bugatti Chiron complete with a fully mechanical working ‘engine’, inclined tourbillon, and stunning blue sapphire crystal hood.
Deployant
Raúl Pagès announces the third chapter in his independent career with a new watch he designed and hand makes: the new Régulateur à détente RP1.
Time+Tide
The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is apparently not content with being one of the most iconic watches ever to be buckled onto a wrist. Sure, it was the first watch to make it onto the moon on July 20, 1969 after being the only chronograph that NASA deemed tough and accurate enough to meet their exacting … ContinuedThe post Moonfall is the latest big-screen cameo for the Omega Speedmaster. Here are 5 more of the watch’s memorable roles at the movies appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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