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H. Moser Debuts the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel, their First Watch in the Exotic Metal Worn & Wound
H. Moser Debuts Feb 22, 2023

H. Moser Debuts the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel, their First Watch in the Exotic Metal

Moser’s latest is the brand’s first ever release in tantalum, a rarely used metal with unique characteristics that make it one of the more rewarding metals in all of watchmaking. In other words, it has a beautiful aesthetic impact, but it takes a lot of work and knowledge to get it to that point. Using it at all is something of a flex for any brand, and Moser is throwing down the gauntlet to a certain extent with this release. Somewhat predictably, they’ve incorporated what has come to be the brand’s signature complication, a unique and easy to read perpetual calendar, into their first tantalum watch, all with an elaborate enamel dial with a distinct hammered texture.  The clear highlight of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel is the use of tantalum, so we’ll start there. Tantalum is extremely dense and strong, qualities which make it an excellent candidate as a case metal for a luxury watch. It’s also very corrosion resistant, and develops a very thin layer of oxidation when exposed to air that naturally protects it. Tantalum also has a gray-blue tone to it that is quite unlike any other metal, giving it a unique quality that no other metal can match.  The reason tantalum is so uncommon in watchmaking is because it is very difficult to machine thanks to a melting point that comes in around 3000 °C. It takes advanced technology and equipment to properly fabricate tantalum for watchmaking purposes, which of course requires not only a substa...

Some of the Toughest New G-SHOCK’s – Now Available in the Windup Watch Shop Worn & Wound
Feb 22, 2023

Some of the Toughest New G-SHOCK’s – Now Available in the Windup Watch Shop

G-SHOCK’s “Master of G” series are some of the toughest watches in G-SHOCK’s lineup. These “master” watches pack some of the most advanced features that G-SHOCK has to offer for those who demand a lot from their digital watches. There are a few categories of models that fall under the Master of G” series, and today, we’re going to take a look at some of the latest additions to the Windup Watch Shop that are ready for whatever you throw at them. G-SHOCK’s “Master of G” series are some of the toughest watches in G-SHOCK’s lineup. These “master” watches pack some of the most advanced features that G-SHOCK has to offer for those who demand a lot from their digital watches. There are a few categories of models that fall under the Master of G” series, and today, we’re going to take a look at some of the latest additions to the Windup Watch Shop that are ready for whatever you throw at them. The post Some of the Toughest New G-SHOCK’s – Now Available in the Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Longines Reaches Back Nearly 100 Years for their Latest Heritage Release, the Pilot Majetek Worn & Wound
Longines Reaches Back Nearly 100 Feb 22, 2023

Longines Reaches Back Nearly 100 Years for their Latest Heritage Release, the Pilot Majetek

Longines receives a lot of well deserved acclaim from the watch community for the tasteful way they recreate historical watches. They not only have a knack for getting the proportions and small details of these watches just right, but over the years they’ve been incredibly smart about the watches they select to reissue. Longines is essentially curating a living museum of watches that are important not just to their own brand history, but watch history writ large. Even if a particular reference is not to your taste, the fact these watches are out there preserving the brand’s heritage is important – it allows enthusiasts to really learn something about watch history, even if they never own the watch in question. Their first novelty of 2023 is a prime example of Longines teaching all of us a little bit about their past. The Longines Pilot Majetek is an uncommon pilot’s watch with a design that has roots in the 1930s.  When we think of aviation watches, our minds probably go to simple designs rooted in pure legibility. The IWC Mark series, for example, provides something of a foundation for how we understand pilot watches today. Big numerals, plenty of lume, and generous proportions. For a time in the 1920s and 30s, however, pilot’s watches made by Longines were defined by a feature we now associate with a very different type of tool watch: a rotating bezel. These so-called “aviation counters” placed an emphasis on timing the duration of a flight, and used a sim...

A Tudor Black Bay Bronze 58 became my milestone watch to celebrate taking charge of my mental health Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay Bronze 58 Feb 22, 2023

A Tudor Black Bay Bronze 58 became my milestone watch to celebrate taking charge of my mental health

Editor’s note: The below story is a submission by Time+Tide reader Chris Antzoulis, who was moved to write it after listening to the Milestone Watches episode on About Effing Time. Here, he shares the story of what he has dubbed his “mental milestone watch”. Ever since I was a kid I loved watches - my … ContinuedThe post A Tudor Black Bay Bronze 58 became my milestone watch to celebrate taking charge of my mental health appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines Introduces the Pilot Majetek SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Feb 22, 2023

Longines Introduces the Pilot Majetek

Long associated with professional pursuits in the early years of the 20th century, Longines made watches worn by explorers, scientists, soldiers, and aviators. Examples include the chronographs made for the hydrographic institute of the Italian navy in the 1930s and the wristwatches supplied to the British army in the 1940s. One of the brand’s most distinctive watches from the period was the cushion-shaped aviator’s watch made for the personnel of the Czech air force in 1935, which has now been reimagined as the Pilot Majetek. Initial thoughts The Pilot Majetek is actually Longines’ second outing in reissuing the Czech air force original. Launched almost a decade ago, the first reissue had too many elements (including a date and “automatic” on the dial) that instantly gave away the fact that it was a modern watch. In contrast, the Pilot Majetek avoids those pitfalls. The design is not a like-for-like reproduction of the original as it has a bulked-up case with crown guards and a wider bezel amongst other tweaks. But it doesn’t have any design elements that stand out as being inappropriate in a vintage-inspired watch. So on its face the Pilot Majetek appears to tick all the boxes as a vintage reissue, but with a big few caveat. Though I’ve yet to see it in person, it is almost certainly a bulky watch at 43 mm in diameter and over 13 mm high, essentially the same dimensions as a chunky sports chronograph and certainly much larger than the 41 mm original, whic...

The Longines Pilot Majetek is a wrist-mounted flight instrument with a storied past Time+Tide
Longines Pilot Majetek Feb 22, 2023

The Longines Pilot Majetek is a wrist-mounted flight instrument with a storied past

From measuring Lindberg’s first transatlantic flight to the monopusher chronograph worn by Amelia Earhart and the Weems, Longines’ tradition of pilot’s watches is a storied one. By the time the 1930s rolled around, Longines had developed a simple system for tracking time in the form of an arrow that rotated with the bezel. You could … ContinuedThe post The Longines Pilot Majetek is a wrist-mounted flight instrument with a storied past appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Junghans 1972 FIS Nordic World Ski Championships editions Time+Tide
Junghans 1972 FIS Nordic World Feb 22, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Junghans 1972 FIS Nordic World Ski Championships editions

Junghans have a long and impressive history in the Black Forest region of Germany, so they’re definitely not afraid of some snow. Despite being famed for their heritage and Bauhaus designs, Junghans haven’t stopped developing new models and retro-futuristic styles either. The Junghans 1972 series captures two distinct levels of vintage oddity, now paired with … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Junghans 1972 FIS Nordic World Ski Championships editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

G-SHOCK Celebrates the 30th Anniversary of the Frogman with a Limited Edition Inspired by a Colorful (but Poisonous) Frog Worn & Wound
Feb 21, 2023

G-SHOCK Celebrates the 30th Anniversary of the Frogman with a Limited Edition Inspired by a Colorful (but Poisonous) Frog

I’ve long held that you can tell an awful lot about a person by their taste in G-SHOCKs. By now, there are so many types of these watches out there, it’s not hard to get a sense of what kind of message a watch collector is trying to send out into the world about themselves through their choice in G-SHOCK. The hardcore collector types will naturally want to flex the limited or hard to find collabs. Your Rick and Morty and Budweiser editions, for example. I get the sense that people who are most likely to actually use their G-SHOCKs for their intended purpose are drawn toward simple, blacked out, “tacti-cool” watches that don’t draw too much attention. These are the simple, traditional G-SHOCKs being worn as nature intended, by the professionals who put themselves in dangerous situations for a living, or klutzes who know for a fact that their watch is going to become intimately familiar with every door jamb it approaches. And then there are people like me. We’re dabblers, interested in G-SHOCK but not obsessive, who are mostly drawn to aggressively colorful designs like the new GWFA1000APF1 seen here, made for the 30th anniversary of the Frogman.  The Frogman watches, if you need a quick refresher, are G-SHOCKs made with diving and water adventures in mind. While all G-SHOCK watches have ample water resistance, the Frogman series features analog time telling via large, dive watch style hands, and a dual coil motor system designed to quickly move those hands as y...

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Pairing the Tudor Pelagos 39 & the Rolex Submariner 14060M Worn & Wound
Tudor Pelagos 39 & Feb 21, 2023

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Pairing the Tudor Pelagos 39 & the Rolex Submariner 14060M

As much as I advocate for expanding your boundaries when it comes to the type of watches you experience, most of our time is spent in the middle of our lane. These are the comfort food of watches, the sweet spot you keep coming back to. For me, these are typically simple divers or tool watches, the archetype of which is of course the Submariner. Not very exciting, but a great everyday companion that’s easy to use and read, with an uncanny ability to pair with pretty much any outfit or look. Plenty of other watches fall into the category as well, but the Submariner sets the bar, and does so particularly well in the form of the reference 14060M. Where more modern references have veered ever so slightly into “it needs to make a statement” territory, there is a humbleness that remains within the 14060, if ever a word could be applied to a Submariner.  The peculiar vibe of the 14060 may be absent within the present catalog of Rolex sports watches, but that doesn’t mean it’s not out there in other more modern watches. In fact, you don’t have to stray far from the family to find such a candidate. Tudor has managed to capture a lot of the charm of early Rolex references in recent years, and one in particular strikes me as a perfect embodiment of what I love about 5 digit Subs, and that is the Pelagos 39. When this watch was introduced I referred to it as the modern Sub we never got, and expanded on that in my full review of the watch. I’ve since welcomed a P39 into ...

HANDS-ON: Add another Traveller GMT to the mix with the Bulova Wilton GMT Time+Tide
Bulova Wilton GMT When it Feb 21, 2023

HANDS-ON: Add another Traveller GMT to the mix with the Bulova Wilton GMT

When it comes to watch releases, 2022 was undoubtedly the year of the affordable GMT. As the world continued to flex it’s legs and travel again, watch brands were all to ready to provide the perfect wristwear for the occasion. And while some felt it best to package these watches as sporty offerings, Bulova decided … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Add another Traveller GMT to the mix with the Bulova Wilton GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Insight: Daniels’ Co-Axial Escapement, an Evolution of the Fasoldt Chronometer SJX Watches
Omega Feb 21, 2023

Insight: Daniels’ Co-Axial Escapement, an Evolution of the Fasoldt Chronometer

In the quest for precision chronometry in a mechanical watch, perhaps no other component is as crucial as the escapement – often consisting of an escape wheel and lever that engage with the oscillating organ. The history of watchmaking recounts many an attempt at inventing a better-performing escapement, with some attempts naturally more successful than others. By the 20th century, the watch industry had settled upon the Swiss lever escapement, which has proven itself to be a reasonably solid performer and crucially, one fit for mass production. However, in the latter decades of the century, one English watchmaker attempted to challenge the industry status quo. In 1974, George Daniels invented the “co-axial escapement”, a seemingly novel and practical escapement of his own design that was conceived as an functionally superior alternative to the Swiss lever escapement. Daniels’ invention fulfilled his ambition, at least in part, when it was sold to Omega and then successfully industrialised starting in 1999; today it is found in hundreds of thousands of movements that Omega produces each year. The latest iteration of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is kitted out with the co-axial escapement With the merits of the co-axial escapement having been proven in part by its large-scale adoption, my aim here is not to examine its intrinsic qualities, but rather delve into its development. Specifically I will explore the fact that the co-axial escapement might not be an ent...

Vaer Gets Funky with the R1 USA Racing Chronograph Worn & Wound
Feb 21, 2023

Vaer Gets Funky with the R1 USA Racing Chronograph

The Venice based and independently owned watch brand, Vaer, has been a busy one since the middle of last year. They’ve expanded their catalog by launching a series of new collections and adding a couple of brand new models while still maintaining their foundational ethos of designing well-made, vintage-inspired watches that, price tag wise, are as approachable as you can get. Observing the brand from afar, it feels that they’ve carved a space for themselves into more of a mainstream market, offering up a collection of affordable watches that resemble popular vintage design and appealing to those who just need one good looking watch that’ll get them through a day at the office, as well as a weekend filled with outdoor activity. The R1 USA Chronograph, one of Vaer’s new releases, still feels like, well, a Vaer. It has all the characteristics that’ll make it another popular offering from the brand, but there’s something most certainly refreshing about the R1 Chronograph. It feels like Vaer strayed away from the classic recipe book, experimented with their own selection of ingredients, and the end product is a watch that’s more for the deep cut watch enthusiast. The R1 USA Chronograph has a lot going on and it’s difficult to pinpoint exactly what makes it distinct. The case is a perfect example. The R1 Chronograph resembles a Monnin style case, which is a favorite of mine that’s seen on the likes of a CWC Royal Navy Diver. There are also hints of the pillow-l...

Antiques Roadshow delivers the feels (again) with this old solider’s white-gold Rolex Day-Date Time+Tide
Rolex Day-Date Let’s not sugar-coat Feb 21, 2023

Antiques Roadshow delivers the feels (again) with this old solider’s white-gold Rolex Day-Date

Let’s not sugar-coat things here: life can often be a cold, hard bitch. But if you know where to look, you can still find plenty of feel-good moments to brighten the inevitable gloom. Some things, in fact, are guaranteed serotonin boosters that simply cannot fail to lift sagging spirts. Being welcomed home by a happy … ContinuedThe post Antiques Roadshow delivers the feels (again) with this old solider’s white-gold Rolex Day-Date appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Visiting Torsti Laine, Independent Finnish Watchmaker In Switzerland, And His Festival Of Color – Reprise Quill & Pad
Breguet style – Feb 21, 2023

Visiting Torsti Laine, Independent Finnish Watchmaker In Switzerland, And His Festival Of Color – Reprise

Finnish independent watchmaker Torsti Laine’s timepieces feature strong individualization, bespoke designs, “dream color” dials, movements, colors, guilloché, lovely hands, and applied numerals – especially Breguet style – in any shape or language. Avid Quill & Pad reader Thomas Brechtel visited Laine in his workshop in Le Locle, Switzerland, and shares what he learned there with us right here.

Vacheron Constantin unveils multi-level boutique in Sydney Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin unveils multi-level boutique Feb 21, 2023

Vacheron Constantin unveils multi-level boutique in Sydney

Vacheron Constantin is a brand that does things properly. Established in 1755, the prestigious manufacturer only produces about 20,000 watches a year, due to their commitment to uphold their famously high standards. This exacting attitude contributed to the delay in opening a dedicated Sydney boutique until they found the ideal location. But that wait is … ContinuedThe post Vacheron Constantin unveils multi-level boutique in Sydney appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.