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While Vacheron Constantin already has a few triple calendar watches in its catalogue, including the old-school Historiques and contemporary FiftySix. But perhaps the perfect blend of classical and modern is Traditionnelle triple calendar introduced three years ago. The latest version of the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar is in white gold, paired with a grey dial – a clean, restrained combination. Initial thoughts While the latest version is merely a change of colours, it’s still a smart look. Already appealing in terms of design, the Traditionnelle gets better with the right case metal and dial. And here the grey-on-silver formula is perfect. The Traditionnelle Complete Calendar is unusual for the dial layout. Instead of having twin-windows side at side under 12 o’clock, the day and month indicators are pushed to the edge of the dial. This opens up the dial aesthetic, while also improving legibility. Like the other models in the Traditionnelle family, the Complete Calendar is masculine and serious, especially in this colour, but not mundane. That’s thanks in part to interesting details, like the double-baton marker at 12 o’clock and a case with a coin-edge fluting on the back. Importantly, the movement is decorated well – as good as it gets as far as big brands go – it even packs a few inward angles on its anglage (even if they aren’t extremely sharply angled). At US$41,000, the price tag is hefty, but it is considerably more affordable than any of Va...

Petite Aiguille is a fun Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève category with a diverse set of contestants offered at a retail price equal to or under 3,500 Swiss francs. These include rising stars anOrdain, Furlan Marri, and independent specialist Massena Lab. Oris is also present here with the chic Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy, and Doxa represents the affordable diver corner with a SUB 200 model. Last but not least, there is Ciga Design’s interesting Blue Planet.

Introducing our new content series highlighting the depth and detail in vintage Grand Seiko. First up? Naturally, it’s the watch known as the Grand Seiko “First."

With a watch as visually complex as the REISER Alpen Skeleton, it’s always hard to know where to begin, but perhaps the most unique aspect of its design is the signature Alpen case profile. Although the hexagonal case shape may be more than a touch familiar to most watch enthusiasts, there’s a lot more to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The REISER Alpen Skeleton is an integrated bracelet watch with a fresh twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Succession has almost zero characters with redeeming qualities. For the most part the Roy family and those in their orbit are complete assholes. Each scene may as well be set in a garden in Westeros, the veiled take on the Murdoch family revealing endless backstabbing, traded insults, and nothing that resembles conventional family love. One … ContinuedThe post Rollie Moly! Cousin Greg falls foul of a dodgy Rolex in Succession’s latest episode… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo has revealed that its upcoming sale this fall, The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV, will feature not one but four extraordinary Philippe Dufour creations. Wei gives us the proper run down while the auction house came through Singapore for their Geneva Watch Auction: XIV showcase.

Vacheron Constantin adds a new white gold, slate grey dial Complete Calendar to their classically inspired Traditionelle collection.

In the smartphone age, it's often said, nobody needs a watch anymore. This avant-garde design challenges us to consider all the reasons we might want one anyway.

Editor’s note: If you can get one at retail the green dial Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/014 would set you back $34,893 USD. But that’s one extremely big “if”. Consequently, people are willing to pay crazy prizes for what is still a watch that only came out this year. Recently, for example, a Nautilus 5711/014  sold on … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S NOTE: Reflecting on happier times, when you could go on a waiting list for a 5711, and actually get “the call” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Featuring watches in the price segment from 3,500 to 10,000 Swiss francs, the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève's Petite Aiguille category is extremely competitive. High quality and a little something extra are, or should be, a given; but here we are looking for a lot of something extra. The great thing about this category is that these are all very wearable, affordable, and accessible watches. So how did our panel do in choosing a winner?

The tourbillon-only company's high-velocity tourbillon is based on a surprisingly old idea.

A massive sale, full of heavy hitters from across the horological spectrum – plus an under-10k CHF low estimate bonus round.

So a little while ago, I was talking to my hypnotist (long story) when he revealed that he had an intriguing side hustle. Away from his day job, when he wasn’t helping people to quit smoking or overcome their fear of flying, he’d created the biggest polyamory dating app in the world. Think of it, … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Why it’s OK to keep buying the same sort of watch over and over again appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

We review the Horage Autark 10 Years Limited Edition, a watch that was created to commemorate the tenth anniversary of the brand's first in-house movement.

"Every watch is a skull watch if you think about it."

A simple timepiece with date on a sunray brushed black dial? Yes, the Junghans Meister Fein Automatic is that.

Chicken soup for your wrist.

The winter Olympics in Beijing is scarcely three months away, and Official Timekeeper Omega has dutifully obliged with a special edition watch to mark the proceedings: the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Beijing 2022.

When it comes down to it, a watch with a GMT complication is really just a love letter to travelling. Regardless of their original purpose as pilot’s watches or otherwise, whenever someone sees a GMT their mind instantly imagines adjusting that little fourth hand to their home time while taking off to somewhere new and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The CuleM Skyline GMT Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A homage to famed Monaco “Dark Lord”, the TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco is unique for utilising carbon, or more specifically carbon composites, in almost every aspect of the watch – dial, case, and even the hairspring is carbon. Plus it has a specially finished movement that’s visible through the an extra-wide sapphire case back. Initial thoughts The vintage “Dark Lord” is all-black version of the Monaco that’s one of the most desirable of vintage Heuers. It was something of an experimental creation with only a few dozen were made, or perhaps even a hundred depending on the source. One of the first all-black watches, the “Dark Lord” had a powder-coated case like many early black-coated watches. Consequently, the “Dark Lord” case was fragile and few have survived in pristine condition, explaining its rarity and value, as well as why it’s the inspiration for the Carbon Monaco. A vintage “Dark Lord” ref. 740.303N The pleasing black, orange, and cream palette of the Carbon Monaco instantly evoke the “Dark Lord”. And at a distance, the Carbon Monaco even has something of a vintage flavour. But up close it is evidently a modern watch in both style and substance. Unlike the “Dark Lord”, the Carbon Monaco is fabricated from a material that’s naturally black, or at least a dark grey. The carbon composite case has an indelible finish, while also being extremely lightweight. The modern material, along with the geometrically open-worked ...

In November 2021 collectors have the chance to see (and possibly buy) all four Philippe Dufour watches in one place, making Phillips' Geneva Watch Auction: XIV what could well be the watch auction of the decade. Joshua Munchow takes a look at each of the four Philippe Dufour models on the block and examines why this is likely to leave its mark on the auction world for years to come.

Francois-Paul Journe’s creation for Only Watch 2021, the F.P. Journe FFC Blue, sticks to a familiar template. Like prior watches conceived for the biennial charity auction – the tourbillon of 2015, split-seconds chronograph of 2017, and the Astronomic of 2019 – this year’s timepiece has a tantalum case and blue dial. But FFC Blue is a strikingly unique watch – the five-fingered time display is a first in watchmaking. Though it has a conventional round case, the FFC Blue is conceptually closer to the unconventional Vagabondage watches than the brand’s round watches. Short for Francis Ford Coppola, the FFC Blue originated with a question posed to Mr Journe by the director of The Godfather and Apocalypse Now in 2012. Mr Coppola suggested a watch that indicated the time with human hand. Over the following years Mr Journe worked on the concept, with Mr Coppola suggesting the finger positions to indicate each hour. And now the filmmaker’s idea has been realised as a one-off creation for the charity auction. Though entirely unique compared with F.P. Journe’s other creations, the FFC is powered by the workhorse cal. 1300 of the Octa series Initial thoughts I found the hand-display concept intensely compelling when Mr Journe described it during my visit to Geneva in 2017. In the metal the FFC is equally compelling. It is inventive and appealing. It’s rather large at 42 mm in diameter, though like nearly all F.P. Journe watches it is unusually thin given the c...

The upcoming Only Watch auction is an impressive catalogue of 53 one-off timepieces, a good number of which – more than a quarter of the total – are chronographs. Among the dozen chronographs, a couple caught my eye. One is the Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021. It’s essentially an evolution of the Breguet Type 20 created for Only Watch 2019, simple in design and execution but attractive in that simplicity. The Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021 Initial thoughts Like another notable chronograph in the sale, the TAG Heuer Monaco, the Type XX is reinterpretation of an iconic model of the brand. But the Type XX Only Watch 2021 is a nostalgic reinterpretation with a chocolate-brown dial that evokes the aged, “tropical” effect found on vintage examples. That said, the vintage styling is its only weakness. The Type XX is almost identical to the Type 20 Only Watch 2019 – right down to the strap – though the point can be made that the two make a perfect pair. The Type XX (left), and Type 20 They are each inspired by historical aviator’s watches made for the military and civilian markets respectively (the vintage Type XX was marketed to civilians, while the Type 20 was supplied to the French military). So this year’s Type XX should go home with the owner of the Type 20 from 2019. Almost a doppelgänger – the Type 20 Only Watch 2019 Notably, the Type XX is powered by a vintage movement, though one that is from a later period from an actual vintage Type XX. Still, giv...

The roaring 20s was a tumultuous time in America that included the aftermath of the First World War, prohibition and the infamous Wall St crash. But sometimes the most chaotic environments lead to a surging sense of creativity. The 1920s were certainly a productive time when it came to watches, with many of what we … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The watch collecting universe is an interesting one these days. It appears as though there are more and more collectors around, and the supplies are not enough to feed the insatiable appetite from the crowd. In fact, we are aware that the waitlist for some watches can stretch over years. While those watches are definitelyRead More