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A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Zeitwerk Honey Gold “Lumen” SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 24, 2021

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Zeitwerk Honey Gold “Lumen”

Having launched the second-generation Zeitwerk movement two years ago with a date display, A. Lange & Söhne has now upgraded the base model with the same calibre – except it’s not exactly a base model. Limited to 200 watches, the Zeitwerk Honey Gold “Lumen” reimagines the Zeitwerk Phantom of 2010, but with a second-generation movement – which means a longer power reserve and quickset hours – and a case in 18k Honeygold, the brand’s proprietary gold alloy. Initial thoughts Lange is certainly introducing second-generation Zeitwerk in style. The combination of Honeygold and the tinted sapphire dial is striking – it is a good looking watch – while the improved movement removes all of the inconveniences of the first-generation calibre. It is essentially a revisit of the Zeitwerk Phantom, but that takes nothing away from it. Enough time has passed since the Phantom that an encore is welcome, and it is also different enough with the Honeygold case and second-generation calibre. The only bit I wish was different is the red marking on the power reserve indicator. I’m not a fan because it jumps out relative to the rest of the dial, and adds colour to what should be a monochromatic design. At €114,000 the new Zeitwerk is a chunk of change but it’s not exorbitant considering the complication. And perhaps more relevant is the fact the secondary market values for past Lumen editions have escalated rapidly, which makes this inexpensive in comparison. Mechanic...

What the Patek Phillipe 5095/1A potentially suggests about the future of the brand in steel Time+Tide
Patek Philippe introduced three new chronographs Oct 24, 2021

What the Patek Phillipe 5095/1A potentially suggests about the future of the brand in steel

Recently Patek Philippe introduced three new chronographs with complications: the 5905/1A, 5204-011, and 5930P-001. Standing out amongst the trio, to many, was the ref. 5905/1A – the first ever 5905 Annual Calendar Flyback Chronograph to be released in stainless steel. Not only does the watch have a stainless-steel case, but also a matching stainless-steel bracelet … ContinuedThe post What the Patek Phillipe 5095/1A potentially suggests about the future of the brand in steel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Cartier Tank Must Collection offers classic design at an accessible price Time+Tide
Cartier Tank Must Collection offers Oct 24, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Cartier Tank Must Collection offers classic design at an accessible price

The quartz crisis is often spoken about with abject horror, and for good reason. Japanese quartz watches were more accurate, reliable, and cheaper than Swiss mechanicals, so why would anyone buy an old-fashioned and outdated piece of technology? Given that Switzerland controlled over half of the world’s mechanical watch industry after the second world war, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Cartier Tank Must Collection offers classic design at an accessible price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: How Arnold Schwarzenegger made the Seiko H558-5000 the ultimate tough-guy watch Time+Tide
Seiko H558-5000 Oct 23, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: How Arnold Schwarzenegger made the Seiko H558-5000 the ultimate tough-guy watch

EDITOR’S PICK: Today, my brother-in-law, Pete, is doing a 24-hour bike ride to raise money and support of families affected by stillbirth and SIDS. The really crazy bit – he’s doing the entire 500km ride on a stationary bike in his garage (you can sponsor the heroic bastard right here). Anyway figuring he could probably do with a … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: How Arnold Schwarzenegger made the Seiko H558-5000 the ultimate tough-guy watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Doomed affairs & dumb tycoons - the stories behind the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Hidden Treasures Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Hidden Oct 23, 2021

Doomed affairs & dumb tycoons - the stories behind the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Hidden Treasures

Part of me ever so slightly pities whoever is at the helm of Jaeger-LeCoultre in 10 years time. This year, after all, was merely the 90th birthday of the brand’s iconic Reverso, but the celebratory output was wildly impressive. Which begs the question: what the hell are they going to do to top all that … ContinuedThe post Doomed affairs & dumb tycoons – the stories behind the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Hidden Treasures appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our Predictions In The Diver’s Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Some Underwater Consensus Quill & Pad
Oct 22, 2021

Our Predictions In The Diver’s Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Some Underwater Consensus

In the 2021 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève Diver's category we see a mix of tool watches that one might actually choose to use underwater as a dive computer backup and “desk divers” that will see their toughest duty during a light rain shower on the way to the office. In this round table, our panelists pick their choices as the best dive watch of 2021.

DON’T FEED THE HYPE: 3 alternatives to the Rolex Explorer II ref. 226570 Time+Tide
Rolex Explorer II ref 226570 Oct 22, 2021

DON’T FEED THE HYPE: 3 alternatives to the Rolex Explorer II ref. 226570

It is time for another round of “Don’t Feed the Hype“. As a refresher for those who may not have seen previous entries in the series, my goal is to showcase readily available alternatives that provide a similar essence or merit to watches that have become increasingly unobtainable. It is my hope that these lesser … ContinuedThe post DON’T FEED THE HYPE: 3 alternatives to the Rolex Explorer II ref. 226570 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Every Watch Tells a Story - want to tell yours? Time+Tide
Oct 22, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Every Watch Tells a Story - want to tell yours?

As watch collectors and owners, we all have, in some form or another, an emotional connection with our timepieces. And if, like me, you have hunted after many watches over the years, then you know that the journey can be, at times, more interesting than the destination. When we attend a watch meetup, one of … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Every Watch Tells a Story – want to tell yours? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The frankly unbelievable story of a green Nautilus donated to the Loupe This auction site is actually 100% legit Time+Tide
Oct 21, 2021

The frankly unbelievable story of a green Nautilus donated to the Loupe This auction site is actually 100% legit

It’s the kind of anecdote that immediately causes the eyes to squint, and all internal radars for shadiness sweep madly across the story points. A consignor sends an email to Eric Ku and Justin Gruenberg, founders of Loupe This, an online watch auction platform that we’ve covered here, saying that he wanted to “let go” of … ContinuedThe post The frankly unbelievable story of a green Nautilus donated to the Loupe This auction site is actually 100% legit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Massena Lab Introduces the Old School by Luca Soprana SJX Watches
Massena Lab Introduces Oct 21, 2021

Massena Lab Introduces the Old School by Luca Soprana

Following a slew of affordable, vintage-inspired watches, with several made by Habring2, Massena Lab has moved decidedly upmarket with the Old School. The time-only wristwatch retains a typical of the American watch-design studio – once again vintage inspired with a sector-like dial – but boasts a significantly more refined finishing. The model name is a play on words – a reference to its classical design but also the watch is meant to evoke a montre d’école, or “school watch” in English, the graduation project of a watchmaking student. Despite the academic inspiration, the Old School is the work of an experienced watchmaker, Luca Soprana, who cofounded Ateliers 7h38, the complication workshop best known for the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon. Initial thoughts Massena Lab founder William Rohr is an industry veteran – amongst other things he’s been managing director of Antiquorum Switzerland and consultant to Bonhams – who has cultivated a sharp eye for design an details. Mr Rohr also has a finger on the current pulse of watch collecting, and the Old School unsurprisingly encapsulates what many enthusiasts currently desire. The design and movement feature traditional elements that are popular now. It’s not meant to be an intriguing or creative product – it is old school after all – but instead a simple watch executed well. One element that illustrates Mr Massena’s keen eye is the dial. The simple design has just enough flair to make it attrac...

INTRODUCING: The Old School by Massena LAB x Luca Soprana Time+Tide
Massena Lab x Luca Soprana Once Oct 21, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Old School by Massena LAB x Luca Soprana

Once upon a time, I applied for a very prestigious and selective watchmaking school here in the USA. Sadly, I did not make the cut, which was probably fair given that I do not have the steadiest hands. A silver lining to this story is that, after my time working as a watch specialist for … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Old School by Massena LAB x Luca Soprana appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.