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One Man Army - Hodinkee Magazine
Grahame Fowler is as responsible as anyone alive for making military watches cool. Now he’s doing the same for vintage Italian scooters.
Hodinkee
Grahame Fowler is as responsible as anyone alive for making military watches cool. Now he’s doing the same for vintage Italian scooters.
Hodinkee
There was only one rule: Everyone had to choose a watch from a different brand. Otherwise it was open season with house money.
SJX Watches
A Spanish watch designer who founded one of the hot independent brands during the lead up to the last financial crisis, Franc Vila has made a quiet return with the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero. Turning away from the excessive style that characterised his original watches, Mr Vila now relies on the movement construction to create a distinctive aesthetic. Produced by an unnamed independent watchmaker, the FVF1 movement is open-worked to give it an airy feel. And it features a novel “piston” mechanism for the roller indicator for the day. Initial thoughts When I first encountered the FVF1 C2, it was interesting both from a visual and technical perspective. But I was sceptical as the brand has baggage. Mr Vila’s original brand went under after the finial crisis of 2007-2008. And while it was successful before it was not – at its peak the brand perhaps 500 watches a year – that brand’s watches were oddly styled, with a dial that resembled a monkey’s head (or a cobra according to the brand itself). But a decade has passed and Mr Vila’s latest creation is appealing. The styling found in his original watches has been dialled back, which is a good thing. The movement is open-worked and unusually constructed, giving it a distinctive look despite the simple outline of the case. At the same time, it has a novel mechanical function with the “piston” adjuster for the day indicator. And it is also finished attractively to a level similar to that of the Poincon de G...
Hodinkee
Will this make Ellison a more visible man to the watch world?
Time+Tide
We’ve debated some of the best watches under $1,000 USD, from $1,000 – $3,000 USD, from $3000 – $5000 USD, from $5000 – $7,000 USD, and from $7,000 – $10,000 USD. Today, in our next installment of the Don’t Miss This series, we are stepping up the increment again – tackling some of the best … ContinuedThe post Don’t Miss This: Our team debates the best watches from $10K-$15K USD appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre releases a trio of watches in their Reverso Tribute Enamel Hidden Treasures collection featuring tribute works to celebrated artists.
Time+Tide
Ask any Formula 1 fan who Ayrton Senna was, and the range of emotions they’ll express may leave you perplexed. In the first few seconds, the joy in their eyes may reflect what it felt like to watch one of the most aggressive and talented drivers the sport has ever seen. Eventually, that joy is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Senna Special Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Revolution recounts the importance of Roger Dubuis’ unique language in watchmaking in horology and how the brand’s dared redesign one of its fundamental icons for 2021.
Revolution
Small things make perfection in design, and Parmigiani Fleurier’s much-talked-about new collection is a sign that the brand has hit a design milestone.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: Last week, the Only Watch 2021 auction racked up the phenomenal result of $32.1 million USD. Admittedly, there’s a charitable motive behind the initiative, but even so, the vast sums of money splurged there on watches by Audemars Piguet, F.P. Journe and alike, suggest that watch collecting is still in a very healthy place. … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Knowledge, kinship & “celebrity vampirism” – the psychology of why we collect watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
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Time+Tide
I love my Grand Seiko SBGA413 “Spring”. It gets a lot of wear time on my wrist because I enjoy its cherry blossom inspired pink hue, making it a very distinct timepiece. But it is not just the hue that is compelling. Its “rock pattern” texture (as the brand refers to it) is a fan-favourite … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko SBGA469 Boutique Online Exclusive introduces their “rock pattern” dial in a tradition-rooted indigo blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
You may be asking yourself why Ken Gargett is reviewing yet another 2008 vintage champagne. For starters, he's doing it because 2008 is a great year. But also because the Taittinger Comtes de Champagne just might be the best of the 2008s. This champagne has a litany of high scores – most range from 98 to 100 – and praise from critics (including this one).
Time+Tide
Speculation has been rampant ever since Tudor announced their renewed partnership with Marine Nationale. With the vintage M.N. issued divers highly coveted and collectable, many were excited for a chance to own a modern take on such a watch. We previously gave our own predictions, detailing what was likely, unlikely, and most fitting for a … ContinuedThe post Is the new Tudor Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” everything we hoped for? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Starting with four pieces from a friend of HODINKEE, the Vintage Team went military-inspired for this week.
Hodinkee
Today we are looking back at this platter of military worn Tudor and Rolex divers from the man who knows them best.
SJX Watches
Earlier this year Tudor resurrected its partnership with France’s navy, the Marine Nationale, some two decades after it last supplied military-spec Submariners to the navy’s divers. Now the brand has finally revealed a project two years in the making, the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale”. Developed together with the members of the Commando Hubert, the navy’s elite combat divers, the Pelagos FXD is an actual military issue timepiece – the unit’s divers wear the same watch during operations – with fixed bars and a no-nonsense aesthetic. The Pelagos FXD is a time-only diver just like the Submariner ref. 9401/0 “MN” issued to divers of the French navy in the 1970s Initial thoughts Images of a Commando Hubert graduation ceremony appeared online several months ago, revealing the watch. So the Pelagos FXD was expected, but still manages to surprise. It is clearly a nod to the ref. 9401/0 “MN” of the 1970s – nicknamed “snowflake” after its hands and dial – and is as close to a vintage Submariner as a modern Tudor can be. But it still has a few extras appeal to military watch aficionados. The fabric strap has a Velcro fastener so it can be adjusted more precisely to any wrist size Most notable are the lugs, which are a reinterpretation of the fixed bars found on vintage military-issue dive watches. They form one piece with the case, making the connection between the case and strap far more robust. It’s certainly over-engineered for anyone who isn...
Deployant
Franck Muller brings Watchland and their museum to Singapore. Details of this extraordinary exhibition and experience within.
Revolution
One of the most storied collaborations in the history of watchmaking and the military is Tudor and French navy’s partnership that dates back to the 1950s. Now in 2021, the joint venture is official with the release of Pelagos FXD and fans of the no date Snowflake Tudor are going to be very happy indeed…
Quill & Pad
Following the record-breaking weekend comprising the Phillips and Only Watch auctions, the vintage world turns to the remaining houses yet to stage their auctions this season. And so our pals at The Watches TV went hands on with a few lots of Zurich’s Ineichen auction house from the year's final auction to be held on November 20 and 21, 2021.
Time+Tide
When a film has three huge Hollywood names on its marquee, you know a lot of eyeballs will be tuning in. Reportedly Netflix’s highest budget film to date, the $200m USD production Red Notice stars Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson, Ryan Reynolds, and Gal Gadot and is jam-packed with action sequences to provide viewers with some … ContinuedThe post Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson spotted wearing an IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar at the premiere of Netflix’s “Red Notice” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
It’s no secret that integrated bracelets are hot property, and one of the greatest integrated designs is the sporty Cartier Santos. We dive into the story behind the watch that practically defines sports chic, the brainchild of the legendary Dominique Perrin. This sporty design is now over 40 years old, but it’s still relevant, as major updates in 2018, along with our latest Watchfinder examples, show.
Time+Tide
Seiko released a heap of cool watches at the start of 2021 and they’ve since continued their momentum. Indeed, this year has witnessed hit after hit for the Japanese giant, who’ve released a never-ending stream of interesting and varied watches. One series of releases aimed at bringing fresh creativity into the watch-collector world are their … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Seiko 5 Sports ONE PIECE Limited Edition Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The iconic Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, one of the most emblematic timepieces of all time, endlessly renews itself in countless embodiments, even 90 years after its birth. Here Y-Jean Mun-Delsalle reports on the 'Reverso: Timeless Stories Since 1931' exhibition in Paris, which just opened and will run through December 24, 2021.
Hodinkee
According to Lisa Jackson, the brand’s Head Of Sustainability, it also wants to be the cleanest.
Hodinkee
Like every industry, ours is trying to improve. Where does greenwashing leave off, and real change begin?
Hodinkee
The new issue goes global – and finds surprises at every turn.
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