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The Cartier Santos-Dumont is a lesson in distilled elegance Time+Tide
Cartier Santos-Dumont Oct 9, 2019

The Cartier Santos-Dumont is a lesson in distilled elegance

Cartier is a brand that doesn’t reinvent the wheel, but instead gradually evolves their designs over decades, refining and purifying their core look with each year that goes by. For their latest collection, released at SIHH 2019, the focus was the Cartier Santos-Dumont, a dress watch that is both classically sized and slim, offering one … ContinuedThe post The Cartier Santos-Dumont is a lesson in distilled elegance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: History of the Must de Cartier Tank Time+Tide
Cartier Tank Editor’s note I Oct 8, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: History of the Must de Cartier Tank

Editor’s note: I think most people reading this fully appreciate just how dire things were in the 1970s as a result of the notorious “quartz crisis”. Myriad Swiss watchmakers seemed to just disappear overnight, succumbing to a battery-powered onslaught led by Seiko, who inundated the wristwatch market with inexpensive, accurate timepieces. It was an interesting … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: History of the Must de Cartier Tank appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The wearer-friendly Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet 8 Jours Time+Tide
Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet 8 Oct 8, 2019

VIDEO: The wearer-friendly Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet 8 Jours

On the face of it, Blancpain’s elegant Villeret Quantième Complet 8 Jours - or, if you don’t parlez vous, Complete Calendar 8 Days - is exactly the sort of thing you’d expect from the dressier family of one of Switzerland’s old marques. But once you get past the numerous traditional points - the day/month apertures, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The wearer-friendly Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet 8 Jours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolesor in the deep – the Rolex Sea-Dweller Reference 126603 Time+Tide
Rolex Sea-Dweller Reference 126603 Oct 8, 2019

Rolesor in the deep – the Rolex Sea-Dweller Reference 126603

To say there was quite a bit of controversy when Rolex unveiled the two-tone Sea-Dweller ref. 126603 at this year’s Baselworld is, at the very least, an understatement. In fact, there was nothing short of a litany of disparaging comments, which varied greatly in context, and ranged from questioning the two-tone Sea Dweller’s validity as … ContinuedThe post Rolesor in the deep – the Rolex Sea-Dweller Reference 126603 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune SJX Watches
Hermes Chronode conceived Oct 8, 2019

Hands-On: Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune

Hermès, as a brand, usually has an elegant, light and sometimes whimsical house style that makes it unique amongst luxury houses. The Arceau L’Heure De La Lune unveiled at SIHH at the start of the year exemplifies the house style, although the case is thicker than ideal. Functionally, the Arceau L’Heure De La Lune is a straightforward watch – it shows the time, date and phases of the Moon in both the Southern and Northern hemispheres. But the execution of the time and date is striking and clever. Orbital moon phases The two are essentially orbital displays, as each is on a sub-dial mounted on a rotating, central carousel. The carousel take 59 days to make one complete revolution around the dial. But each sub-dial also rotates on itself as the carousel turns. As a result, each sub-dial is always the right way up regardless of its position. Both sub-dials also double up as the moon phase indicator, with position of each sub-dial indicating the age of the Moon in each hemisphere. And in a bit of whimsy, the hemispheres have been inverted, with the Southern on top and Northern below. The Arceau L’Heure De La Lune with a meteorite dial The inventive display was built by Chronode, the complications specialist founded by Jean-Francois Mojon, which has a diverse body of work that includes Urban Jurgensen’s P4 movement, the MB&F; LM2, and the constant force tourbillon of IWC. The display module by Chronode. Photo – Hermes Chronode conceived and builds the ...

Cartier Opens ‘Crystallisation Of Time’ Exhibition in Tokyo SJX Watches
Cartier Opens ‘Crystallisation Oct 8, 2019

Cartier Opens ‘Crystallisation Of Time’ Exhibition in Tokyo

In the tradition of its extravagant exhibitions, Cartier has recently opened Cartier, Crystallisation Of Time in Tokyo’s National Art Centre. Made up of some 300 items, ranging from jewels to clocks to objet d’art, the exhibition is the third Cartier exhibition in Japan since the 1990s (and the 34th globally). Notably, half the exhibits are on loan from private collections, with the rest being from the Cartier Collection, the jeweller’s own trove of over 3000 items spanning 1860 to the modern day. More unusually, this is the first exhibition that includes contemporary Cartier creations from the 1970s and later, in contrast to past events that only included historical objects. The exhibition explores the jeweller’s rich history by juxtaposing vintage jewels, timepieces and objects against their modern equivalents or relations. So a lavish portico mystery clock made of gold, rock crystal and onyx from 1923 sits beside a 2016 mysterious tourbillon pocket watch hanging in its rock crystal and jade stand. Large ‘Portique’ mystery clock (left); and mysterious tourbillon pocket watch with stand Desk clock, circa 1929, made of ebonite, mother-of-pearl, and coral (left); and magnetic clock from 2016, in white gold, lapis lazuli, and mother-of-pearl It’s organised into three themes, detailing the jeweller’s work in materials, design, and cultural inspiration. The two scarab motif jewels, for instance, are six decades apart, but share the same Ancient Egyptian theme...

Our Predictions In The Calendar And Astronomy Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): And The Moon Takes It Quill & Pad
Oct 7, 2019

Our Predictions In The Calendar And Astronomy Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): And The Moon Takes It

The 2019 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève Calendar and Astronomy category is for mechanical watches comprising at least one calendar and/or astronomical complication. And this year all six watches have strong chances at the prize. Our panel isn't unanimous in selecting a winner, but close to it: the moon wins!

VIDEO: Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms in full gold and bright blue Time+Tide
Blancpain s Fifty Fathoms Oct 7, 2019

VIDEO: Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms in full gold and bright blue

The Fifty Fathoms is a stalwart of the dive watch, dating back to 1953. And, as you might expect, the watch has seen a few revisions over the years, including ones like this, that stretch the boundaries of a rough-and-ready tool watch.  Because a 45mm fully gold dive watch is a heck of a flex. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms in full gold and bright blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: The anOrdain Model 2  Time+Tide
anOrdain Oct 7, 2019

IN-DEPTH: The anOrdain Model 2 

The story in a second: The anOrdain Model 2 is an unbelievable dial at an unbelievable price. From where I’m sitting, 2019 has been a fairly quiet year on the watch front, thanks to a more fragmented release schedule than usual and a general sense of reticence on behalf of many big brands to push the … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The anOrdain Model 2  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster El Primero Radar SJX Watches
Zenith Oct 7, 2019

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster El Primero Radar

Having been one of the first brands to work with watch customiser Bamford Watch Department, Zenith has one gone one further with the Chronomaster El Primero Radar. Featuring a striking aesthetic reminiscent of the 1970s, it was designed by Bamford for Zenith, and will only be available at the watchmaker’s boutiques. In short, it is an official boutique edition designed by a former aftermarket customiser. Bamford Watch Department was founded by George Bamford, an entrepreneur who made a name for himself selling customised watches and clothing, but who also happens to be the son of a construction equipment tycoon. His watch division made its name customising Rolex watches, but has now become the official customiser for Zenith, TAG Heuer, and Bulgari, all companies of luxury conglomerate LVMH. According to Zenith, the red and brown livery of Chronomaster El Primero Radar was inspired by a 1916 pocket watch Mr Bamford spotted during a visit to Zenith’s factory in Le Locle. Mr Bamford used that to create the “retro-futuristic aesthetic” of the El Primero Radar. The dial is a graduated brown, while the sub-dial at three has five hashmarks that are the “negative of the [Zenith logo of a] star”, according to Mr Bamford. Dial aside the watch is identical to the standard Chronomaster El Primero, with a 42mm steel case that contains the El Primero 400 B movement.   Key facts and price Chronomaster El Primero Radar (ref. 03.2082.400/02.R830) Diameter: 42mm Heigh...

Rediscovering the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose Rolesor Time+Tide
Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose Rolesor Oct 6, 2019

Rediscovering the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose Rolesor

Editor’s note: It’s easy for the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose Rolesor to get lost in the perpetual noise caused by some of its more popular siblings within Rolex’s Professional range. But to simply overlook this wristwatch would be a categorical mistake, because the Yacht-Master 40 has a great many positives when compared not just to … ContinuedThe post Rediscovering the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose Rolesor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Limited Edition Time+Tide
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Limited Oct 6, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Limited Edition

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms looks like a lot of other watches out there, and there’s a reason for that. The Fifty Fathoms was first. It was one of the first watches ever designed for diving and, as a result, has become almost the Universal Man of dive watches, where all watches that follow are derivative. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance: Synchronized Oscillations Driving Sonorous Vibrations (Plus Video – It Sounds Fantastic!) Quill & Pad
Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance Synchronized Oct 6, 2019

Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance: Synchronized Oscillations Driving Sonorous Vibrations (Plus Video – It Sounds Fantastic!)

The Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance marks the first time in history that the resonance phenomenon has been combined with a chiming watch (a full minute repeater!). Thanks to the clever development of the resonance mechanism several years ago, the doors to this incredibly complex and technical creation opened for the Swiss brand. And the result is like angels singing!

4 banging weekend watches for under $500 Time+Tide
Oct 6, 2019

4 banging weekend watches for under $500

It’s all very well and good having a mainstay, go-to timepiece that you can rely on for daily duties Monday to Friday, but what happens if you want to change it up for the weekend? For most enthusiasts, the criteria for watches worn on Saturday and Sunday are very different to that of a weekday-warrior: … ContinuedThe post 4 banging weekend watches for under $500 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.