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INTRODUCTION: Born from a friendship between Louis Cartier and his pilot pal – Brazlian Aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont – the Cartier Santos was created as a tool to help Alberto tell the time when flying. In the century or so since, Cartier’s Santos has been at the forefront of the brands watch collection, widely loved for its timeless design and icon status.  In more recent years, Cartier’s watch department has been hard at work updating and refining their watch offering, collecting heaps of praise along the way. Earlier this year, the brand released a trio (the Santos-Dumont “Le Brésil,” “La Baladeuse,” and “No. 14 Bis” Limited Editions) of Large size limited editions during Watches & Wonders 2020.  Each of these three watches feature Cartier’s in-house and hand-wound movement, a 430 MC. They’re also made from a combination of different metals with a dial to match, and were made in different quantities. Each of the trio is named after one of Alberto Santos-Dumont’s famous aircraft, which is featured on the caseback, alongside a corresponding motif engraving.  Today, we’re taking a closer look at the No. 14 Bis Limited Edition, named after a biplane designed and built by Alberto Santos-Dumont, which made the first ‘publicly witnessed’ manned powered flight way back in 1906. The 14-Bis was also known as ‘Oiseau de proie’, French for ‘bird of prey’.  FIRST IMPRESSIONS:  I was blown away by my instantaneous affection for the Santo...

I swear we didn’t collaborate on it. It was pure and unintended serendipity. The two most popular stories this week on Watchville (an app you should download here if you don’t already have it, if only for the clock to set your watches to!) were titled: ‘How to steal a watch clean off someone’s wrist…’ … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to steal a watch, and how Rolex stole the show (with 1mm) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watching the news for spiking virus cases, with Geneva rapidly becoming Switzerland’s new hotspot, and deciding by the minute whether we would attend, three of our team members took the plunge and traveled to Geneva to experience the new watches first-hand. Here are our thoughts on the busy, “socially distanced” Geneva Watch Days, including our favorites, the watch we disliked the most, and what we would buy!

Eric Ku's Rolex 'Shark' Submariner is not a new 2020 edition.The post This is not the watch you think it is… firstly, it’s from 5 years ago. Eric Ku tells the story of his Rolex ‘Shark’ Submariner… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

And it's a not-so-strange love after all.

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Start your egg timers.

If you were to travel back in time and ask a circa 2010 horological enthusiast what some of the big players in the mainstream watchmaking game were, there’s a fair chance that Raymond Weil would get a mention. However, a lot has happened in the subsequent decade that’s followed – it could even be argued … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: This Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in olive green is their most attractive model in years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Girard-Perregaux releases two new watches, the Free Bridge and Free Bridge Infinity. The Infinity Edition features black DLC case and limited to 88 pieces.

Glashütte Original has had a year that few, if anyone, could have ever predicted. They have gone from eye-catching but niche Sixties Editions in lurid colours in 2019 and 2018 to what was declared by many that watched our video earlier in the year to be the best watch released at Virtual Basel – the … ContinuedThe post Glashütte Original are having a breakout 2020, this video celebrates our favourite models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Don’t be a philistine. If you’re going to own a watch in excess of $300, it should rate something of quality to keep on the wrist. We are fortunate to live in a time where the bar’s been raised in congruence with competition.

Brand CEO, Patrick Pruniaux walks us through the Girard-Perregaux Cosmos Infinity Edition & Other Novelties at Geneva Watch Days 2020.

Grand Seiko unveils a concept caliber T0 - Constant-Force Tourbillon with an interesting new double cage design for a remontoir tourbillon.

Long a supporter of green charities, Omega backed a a number of initiatives, including the GoodPlanet Foundation and two island conservation projects in Indonesia. The latest is a partnership with Nekton, a non-profit oceanic research institute that is working on projects in the Indian Ocean. To inaugurate the partnership, Omega has unveiled the Seamaster Diver 300M Nekton Edition, a pared-back take on its bestselling dive watch that features a matte titanium bezel insert instead of the usual glossy ceramic. The Seamaster 2 submersible operated by Nekton Initial thoughts More monochromatic than the typical Seamaster, the Nekton edition has an elegant yet sporty look that sets it apart from its ceramic counterparts. The titanium bezel is good looking, with the raised, polished minute markers contrasting well against the granular base. And it’s matched with a matte ceramic dial featuring red accents – always a good combination on a dive watch. That said, the look resembles the Rolex Yacht-Master in platinum and steel. Though finished differently, the materials used aren’t substantially more valuable, and neither is the Nekton a limited edition. But it still costs about US$1,000 over the standard model, making it less compelling in terms of pricing. Still, the watch is arguably good value relative to the competition, especially considering the solid technical features, namely as the Master Chronometer-certified and highly magnetism-resistant movement. Submersible-insp...

Grand Seiko's new concept tourbillon is its first tourbillon, and its first constant-force caliber as well.

Girard-Perregaux was established in 1856 in the watchmaking town of La Chaux-de-Fonds, thanks to the marriage of Constant Girard and Marie Perregaux. The workshops origins were actually as early as 1791, but were not acquired by Girard-Perregaux completely until 1906. Though its history and heritage is in line with brands such as Patek Philippe (1839), … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The dark horses of 2020 are Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato Infinity Editions in 38mm and 42mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

While it pains us as Victorians to write this, for we remain in the dark depths of our second lockdown, the Sydney Hublot boutique is open for business. And with Father’s Day just a few days away, it had us thinking we should loudly remind you of that fact, and then go virtually shopping for … ContinuedThe post 6 watches that show the best and the breadth of modern Hublot, all from the (open) Sydney Boutique appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Unfortunately, the devastation wrought by the pandemic has impacted sales of champagne more viciously than almost any other style of drink, but the quality of Ayala has never been better. Ken Gargett thinks that if you have neglected Ayala in the past, it is definitely time for a rethink. Or re-drink.

Lightweight and extra tough.

Five video stories from HODINKEE readers.

Grand Seikoa adds to their 60th Anniversary Limited Editions with the SBGR321, vivid blue dial inspired by the brilliant sky over Mt. Iwate at dawn.

The renowned expert in vintage and contemporary watches will discuss collecting in the time of COVID-19.

During my visit to the Grand Seiko “Nature of Time” exhibition, in my home town of New York City, I was fortunate to learn some lesser-known facts that have whet my appetite for the brand even more. Here is Part 2. If you missed Part 1, be sure to check it out here. 4. How the … ContinuedThe post 6 things you may not know about Grand Seiko – Part 2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The concept of the watch is no longer a tool, but a medium-and in a category of its own alongside sculpture or painting (consider Moser’s high-art Swiss Cheese Venturer or Swiss Alp Repeater). If this is something you’re willing to entertain, then it’s worth acknowledging the contributions of several dismissed brands and the artists behind them.

I often get asked by family and friends: “Why vintage Seiko?” I can trace my interest in this niche hobby to my childhood, coupled with the fact that I instinctively avoid the mainstream. Growing up in Saudi Arabia in the early 1980s, Japanese technology was found in the majority of products. When it came to watches, there were two market leaders: Casio and Seiko. Everyone at school, myself included, had a Casio of some sort. Seiko watches, on the other hand, were worn by the working professional. I remember clearly being in awe of my headmaster’s watch. It was a Seiko that had a golden-yellow face with a sub-dial. I thought to myself that his success and authority must have come from the watch. I wanted that glorious watch that gave the headmaster his power. Fast forward 25 years to 2017, and I noticed myself subconsciously buying retro Japanese technology, watching episodes of anime series Grendizer and looking for a vintage, yellow-dial Seiko watch – cue my pursuit of vintage Seiko and Casio. The first vintage Seiko I bought was a yellow-dial, all-original ref. 6139-6005 “Pogue” – named after the American astronaut who wore one – from a well-known Seiko seller on Instagram. I had waited almost a year for a Pogue in original condition at a decent price, which frustrated me. After that, I wanted to jump the queue, so to speak, while being under the radar as I knew I couldn’t compete with many of the more serious Seiko collectors. So I hatched a plan: ...

Omega affirms their partnership with Nekton to save the seas with a new watch - the new Seamaster Diver 300M Nekton Edition.

The launch of any new Rolex model this year is a hugely exciting event, but the complete overhaul of the Submariner collection is a moment in time that will be looked back on as the beginning of a new chapter in the history of one of the most celebrated watches ever. Typically, when Rolex moves … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060 41mm no-date and the one-inch-punch the world is talking about appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.