Revolution
The Vacuum Watch You May Never Have Heard Of…
A watertight case will protect the movement in most instances, but some manufacturers have gone even further, by sucking out all the air from within!
Revolution
A watertight case will protect the movement in most instances, but some manufacturers have gone even further, by sucking out all the air from within!
SJX Watches
Breguet is often at its best when it does traditionally styled watches with a twist, something exemplified by the Classique 5175 limited edition made for its Tokyo boutique in 2017. The design was classical, but the dial was blue enamel, instead of the usual white (or occasionally, black). This year Breguet revived the same look – albeit with a date window – for the new Classique 5177, once again in blue enamel. A longstanding model in the catalogue, the Classique 5177 was launched in 2006, but in more traditional livery – white enamel, or guilloche in either basketweave or hobnail. The latest iteration, however, is the most striking of the lot, managing to be both traditional and different. Formal dress At 38mm by 8.8mm, the case is perfectly proportioned as a modern dress watch; not too big and not too small. Like all Breguet watches it has long, narrow lugs, which give it a slightly larger footprint than its dimensions imply. On the wrist the watch sits graceful and flat, proportions that give it a look of proper formality, especially when combined with its restrained design. The profile of the traditional Breguet watch case, with a fluted case band and soldered lugs All the details of the new 5177 are old school, inspired by 19th century Breguet pocket watches. The obvious ones are the Breguet-style numerals and hands, while the less obvious, and more charming, elements include the star-shaped minute markers and the Breguet “secret” signature above six o’c...
SJX Watches
Before the monumental Grand Complication was launched in 2013 – essentially a wristwatch remake of a pocket watch sized like a pocket watch – the most complicated A. Lange & Söhne was the Tourbograph. Launched in 2005, it combined a split-seconds chronograph with a tourbillon regulator as well as a chain and fusee. A limited edition of 51 watches conceived as a tribute to the Günter Blümlein (1943-2001), revered for having reestablished A. Lange & Söhne after the fall of the Berlin Wall, the Tourbograph was powered by the L903.0 movement, made up of 465 parts, excluding the tiny chain. Cased in platinum, it was the original Lange uber-complication; a later edition of 50 pieces had a honey gold case, followed by an even more complex version with a perpetual calendar. Same but different Level up But Lange went one better and made a singular example of the ultimate Tourbograph, which was the most expensive Lange at the time. This Tourbograph was a unique piece set with 202 diamonds on the case – including one brilliant-cut diamond on the crown – and 175 on the bracelet, for a total of 377 diamonds weighing 40.6 carats. Diamonds aside, it is also unique as the only Tourbograph known that’s fitted to a matching platinum bracelet. Unveiled in 2009, it was made for Dubail, destined for its flagship store – which opened just the year before – on the Place Vendome, the posh square in Paris that is home to the Hotel Ritz and grand French jewellers like Cartier and...
Quill & Pad
The quintessential sports tourbillon, the Richard Mille RM 027 RN, officially debuted at the 2010 French Open on the wrist of that year’s champion, Rafael Nadal. It was specifically created to stand up to the punishment of the tennis court. Then Richard Mille introduced the RM 27-02, which is even more high-tech, mechanically resistant, and expensive than the first edition. Read on to discover why.
Quill & Pad
As read by you, here are the top 10 most viewed articles on Quill & Pad in 2019. There are likely to be a few surprises. Drum roll, please: in no particular order, our top ten most viewed articles of 2019 were . . .
Time+Tide
If you regard yourself as a fan of luxury watchmaking, it’s probably fair enough to assume that you have heard of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. For those of you that haven’t, it is, quite simply, an icon. It is the epitome of luxury steel watches, and there’s a good reason for that (read on … ContinuedThe post 5 things you never knew about Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Readers roll up their sleeves to help us pick the year’s best timepieces – it’s a snapshot of what the watchmaking brands are doing right.
Revolution
A petite moon phase to help us picture the brightest orb in the night sky? Le Rhöne wants you to forget that the moon deserves nothing less than large.
WatchAdvice
G-shock still to this day continues to push the boundaries of toughness and original designs with their watches. Ever since the first DW-5000C was released back in 1983, G-Shock has produced a variety of styles for both men and women. What lies at the core of all these models, however, is what the brand is famously known for: toughness and reliability. We have previously reviewed the GMW B5000GD-1 from G-Shock, which was the all-black ion-plated finish of the original GMW-B5000 model. This piece was another excellent example of a watch not compromising a brands core values while giving an updated and modern look. You can find the full review here . What we have on our hands today is one of the more popular models released from G-Shock in August 2019; the GA-2100-1A. This model has been so popular that it was almost sold out the moment it hit the stores. So why the hype? View this post on Instagram Starting the week with these two. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Have a great week all. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ – A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg) on Dec 9, 2019 at 5:29am PST The massive interest in this watch boils down to one design element: the casing. The octagonal shape that G-Shock has given this model resembles the iconic case of the Audem...
Deployant
Dear Readers, we wish you a Very Blessed and Merry Christmas! From all of us at Deployant. We are taking the day off today, and will be back tomorrow. May the joy of the Christ Child be in your heart this Christmas and always, and bring you good cheer and great health.
For the director of BEAMS F, vintage watches from the 1940s through 1960s are the perfect finishing touch to pair with fashion.
Deployant
Deployant friend Kunal Khemka waxes lyrical about his love affair with the Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Manual Winding C. 4400. This is his story.
Time+Tide
I write on Christmas morning, in Melbourne, Australia from the kitchen table of my parents’ house. The children are watching the Stick Man Christmas Special on TV. The air outside is hazy and thick with bushfire smoke, slowly filtering down from the state above Victoria, New South Wales. There are currently 343 bushfires burning out … ContinuedThe post Letter from the Editor: 2019 in Review appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Readers roll up their sleeves to help us pick the year’s best timepieces – it’s a snapshot of what the watchmaking brands are doing right.
Time+Tide
For many years now, watchmakers on all levels have tried to separate themselves from the pack by experimenting with different watch case materials. Nowadays, we’re used to seeing some highly impressive materials make their way onto our wrists. Ceramics, plastics and carbons are all enjoying their day in the sun, but how do the older, … ContinuedThe post Best case scenario: What are the best watch case materials? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
There are myriad impressive things about Seiko’s Presage collection. But if we had to single out one overriding thing that the Japanese watchmaker’s dress watches do better than almost anyone else, rather predictably, it would be their dials. Pound for pound, the Presage dress watches and their rapturous range of dials represent amazing value for … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The beautifully brown Seiko Presage SRPD36J1 and SSA392J1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The 1985 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Charlie? Ken Gargett loved it. Score? 98/100 if you are playing the Grinch; 99/100 if you’d rather be Santa. Ken thinks that Charles Heidsieck should be a must for everyone’s cellar. Find out why plus what's up with Champagne Charlie now.
Time+Tide
Kanye West is many things: hip-hop superstar, fashion designer, maverick genius, not to mention Kim Kardashian’s other half. What he is not often recognised as is a beacon of sound common sense. It turns out there’s a very good reason for this. Yeezy’s public comments suggest a man who is not only a full-blown egomaniac (“By … ContinuedThe post The Enabler: How To Justify Buying Another Watch (#6. The Kanye West Contention) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
One of the biggest trends for timepieces of the last decade has been oversized case dimensions that stretch well into the 45mm plus category. And while the inclination for producing gargantuan wristwatches is starting to cool as tastes in the horological community change, this year has still spawned some absolute doozies for those that like … ContinuedThe post XXXL: 3 of the biggest watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Let's count 'em!
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Mike is back and he’s just in time for Kaz’s #newwatchalert! This week the guys are going over some big end of year news items that have come up within horology – plus, it’s that time of the year 0_o – a review in some highlights from the TBWS Crew’s choices for last minute holiday gift ideas.
Hodinkee
Some people are just collectors through and through.
Deployant
We bring you the details and our thoughts on the new Genus GNS 1, winner of the GPHG Mechanical Exception Watch Prize 2019.
Revolution
Readers roll up their sleeves to help us pick the year’s best timepieces – it’s a snapshot of what the watchmaking brands are doing right.
Revolution
Daniel Craig designs special Aston Martin DBS Superleggera that comes with a platinum-gold Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, in a limited run of 7 examples.
SJX Watches
I rarely write “listicles” but the holidays are always a good excuse for one: a run through of the year’s wants. It’s a wish list of watches I desire, and in a handful of instance bought, and not about the most significant or notable watches (which will be published just before the year’s end). Surprisingly the list is a pretty short one, and heavier on affordable watches than top of the line ones. That’s perhaps reflective of both the state of the industry – often saturated and occasionally unimaginative – and the fact that I’ve seen quite a lot. That being said, sometimes it’s the simple and affordable that surprises, like the Tudor P01, or something from an expected corner, like the Chanel Monsieur Edition Noire. High hopes Even for a price-is-no-object list there are barely any must-haves. The list of candidates was long, but most were crossed out for one reason or another. That also in part reflects the fact that the more expensive a watch is, the higher the standards it should be held to. The Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, for instance, is exceptionally interesting and smartly conceived, in fact, it’s one of the year’s best watch in terms of mechanics, but the design is a bit of a let down. Even in a more affordable tier of complicated watches, the wants come with caveats. The Hermes L’Heure de la Lune is unconventional and poetic, typically Hermes in style. Though its face is elegant, the case profile is less so; it is a ...
SJX Watches
François-Henry Bennahmias is one of the most successful chief executives in Swiss watchmaking: since taking the top job at Audemars Piguet in 2012, revenues at the watchmaker have more than doubled, to well over a billion Swiss francs. He took some flak earlier this year with the high profile launch of an entirely new line, the Code 11.59, which was widely panned at the time. But Mr Bennahmias appears to have been partially vindicated after the unique Code 11.59 skeleton tourbillon (which I was surprisingly drawn to) sold for a million francs – more than four times its presale high estimate. But Mr Bennahmias does not seem to be the sort to look back reflectively, he is forging ahead full speed with rolling out new iterations of the Code 11.59, while also working on “huge” and “very cool” collaboration that will be announced in mid 2020. During a recent visit to Singapore a month ago, Mr Bennahmias discussed the Code 11.59, while dropping a few hints about an upcoming vintage remake, as well as the upcoming partnership. The interview was edited for clarity and length. I really like what you have done recently with the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Skeleton in black ceramic. At the same time, I hear that there are some updates and extensions planned for the Code 11.59 in 2020. Can you talk anything about that? No. [With a smile] Can you say anything about the Code 11.59 for Only Watch, which is a two-tone skeleton of sorts? I saw the watch in Geneva; two-tone doe...
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