Latest watch news · Page 170

Last year, Serica introduced its new 6190 M.S.L. (Mean Sea Level) collection. With the black, white, or gray dials and non-numerical hand-applied indexes, the watches are dressier alternatives to their sportier field-watch predecessors. Today, the Parisian brand adds another playful yet elegant dial variant to that dressier lineup. Let’s take a look at the new […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Playful And Elegant Serica 6190 TXD to read the full article.

De Bethune plans to bring hairspring production in house, aiming to become one of the very few firms able to process alloy wire into a finished balance hairspring. This requires De Bethune’s new hairspring workshop to master wire drawing, rolling, cutting, heat treatment, and assembly. The rationale? “Externally produced hairsprings meet standards based on averages that do not enable fine adjustment of the dimensions to suit a particular balance wheel or its specific positioning in a calibre,” according to De Bethune. De Bethune’s “flat end curve” mated to a hairspring sourced from a supplier. Initial thoughts As De Bethune explains it, making its own hairsprings will allow the brand to tailor its hairspring to a specific balance or movement. Since its founding in 2002, De Bethune has presented itself as being on the cutting edge of chronometry, debuting a new balance design every year from 2004 to 2010. The brand was also quick to embrace silicon, and even briefly attempted a kilohertz magnetic oscillator system, Résonique. A new year, a new balance. Sometimes two new balances. Given De Bethune’s focus on chronometry, making its own hairsprings seems like a natural next step. However, there is a reason so few brands make their own hairsprings: the process is a difficult and demanding one that benefits greatly from economies of scale. For example, H. Moser & Cie. makes less than 4,000 watches per year, however, its sister company Precision Engineering claims...

Seiko introduces a limited Save the Ocean 1965 Heritage Diver with a teal sunburst dial, gray bezel, and upgraded microadjust clasp.

For every good story, there is an end. First presented in 2023, the UR-230 series was Urwerk’s latest creation in the beloved 200 series, following the long-lived UR-210 and the short-lived UR-220. Built around the same design principles as its predecessors, and still featuring the immediately recognisable satellite display we have loved since 2006, the […]

Urwerk’s latest satellite-display creation, the UR-230 Black Star, builds on more than two decades of the brand redefining the wandering hours complication. A concept first teased in the Harry Winston Opus 5 and later perfected in the UR-210, the retrograde-satellite display has become synonymous with Urwerk’s identity, and the Black Star demonstrates how far the idea has come. With a lightweight fibreglass-reinforced ceramic case, the Black Star is a 35-piece limited edition that looks to be the final instalment of the UR-230 series. Initial thoughts Urwerk didn’t invent the wandering hours display, but the brand deserves credit for dragging the complication into modernity in the late 1990s. While the brand has dabbled in watches with conventional hands, it’s still the satellite time display that carries the essence of Urwerk’s DNA. The UR-230 traces its roots back to the 2012 launch of the UR-210, which introduced the retrograde frame that travels with the satellite cube for hours. The concept for a retrograde hand paired with wandering hours dates back even further, to the 2005 launch of the Harry Winston Opus 5, which was also designed by Urwerk. While the concept has subsequently been elaborated with the UR-150 Scorpion, the UR-230 still looks strikingly advanced even after all these years. The latest black-and-yellow livery seems to be the flavour of the day, closely matching the brand’s recent collaboration with Ulysse Nardin. The signature detail of the...

Urwerk releases the final edition of their UR-230 collection with a new version which they call the Black Star. This concludes the trilogy.

Serica takes its familiar field‑watch architecture and dresses it up for casino night with a enamelled tuxedo dial.The post Serica’s 6190 TXD brings back the tuxedo dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Not too long ago, I wrote an article highlighting the Favre Leuba collection. The immediate standouts for me were the Deep Raider divers. The Deep Raider Renaissance is a great modern evolution of the classic Deep Blue from the 1960s. However, it was the Deep Raider Revival that stood out even more to me, as […] Visit Going Hands-On With The Favre Leuba Deep Raider Collection to read the full article.

What do you do when you have a good thing going? You double down, of course! Formex spent years developing a ceramic Essence with best-in-class finishing and a first-ever ceramic micro-adjustable clasp. The Swiss brand fitted it with a skeletonized dial for its debut earlier this year. And then, Formex doubled down indeed. This September, […] Visit Formex Doubles Down On Ceramic With The Essence Ceramica Automatic COSC “Dark Matter” 41mm to read the full article.

For its ninth year partnering with Alpiner Extreme Automatic Freeride World Tour Special Edition (FWT), Alpina introduces a fresh take on the Alpiner Extreme Automatic, a model positioned at the intersection of traditional Swiss watchmaking and high-altitude sport. While the brand has long aligned itself with alpine culture, this Special Edition, housed in the compact version […]

As you well know by now, I love a good list. As the Fratello resident listophile, compiling a list of my favorite releases of 2025 should be easy. Well, that depends on how you look at it. I have seen an abundance of stellar releases this year. That’s also where the challenge comes in. If […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2025 - Jorg’s Picks From Vacheron Constantin, Grand Seiko, Laventure, And More to read the full article.

We've assembled a comprehensive list of gift recommendations for all sorts of watch lovers at all sorts of budgets.The post The Time+Tide holiday gift guide: all the best gift ideas for watch enthusiasts appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The beginning of 2025 marked the 350th anniversary of the hairspring, the invention that made portable precision timekeeping possible. To commemorate the occasion, we published a series of deep dives covering the disputes around its invention, the evolution of spring materials over the years and the finer rules of forming Breguet overcoils. This final instalment examines isochronism. Some initial definitions and considerations A proper and universal definition of isochronism is: the property of an oscillatory system to maintain the same period of vibration despite variation in environmental factors. This implies that a vibrational system’s behaviour is inherent and external factors should not influence its frequency.  A few basic terms help frame the discussion. The period, measured in seconds, is the time taken for the oscillator to travel from one extreme position, through equilibrium, and back again. Frequency, measured in Hertz, is the inverse of the period; a system with a constant period can serve as a stable timebase. The amplitude is the distance swept by the oscillator from the equilibrium point to its extreme position. In practical terms, when saying that a sprung balance has an amplitude of 330°, it means the balance wheel rotates a full 330° in one direction from its equilibrium point before swinging back.  Figure I. Anatomy of a sinusoidal wave. In watchmaking parlance, isochronism means that an oscillator keeps the same period, regardless of its amplit...

Co-designed by a group of Aussie watch enthusiasts, this Carrera Glassbox Australian Limited Edition melds cues from two iconic vintage Heuers.The post How the Australian watch community helped create the TAG Heuer purist’s ultimate Carrera appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Bremont Supermarine 500m Polar feels tailor-made for a holiday escape to the woods, starring an icy dial that echoes fresh snow, paired with the sort of rugged dependability you want when you’ve traded city noise for crackling logs and cold morning air. Its crisp, high-contrast aesthetic is unfussy and calming, the visual equivalent of that first deep breath you take after settling into a quiet, wood-paneled retreat. Whether you’re strumming a guitar by the fire or stepping out for a morning hike through frost-covered pines, the Supermarine 500m Polar is exactly the kind of companion you want on your wrist. Its 43mm case crafted from corrosion-resistant 904L stainless steel shrugs off bumps from thrown-together gear and cabin chores, while the robust 500 meters of water resistance gives you the confidence to take on whatever the terrain and weather decide to throw your way. This is a tool watch in its element… comfortable, capable, and never demanding attention.   The post Holiday Lookbook: Cabin Couture Essentials with Bremont’s Supermarine 500m Polar appeared first on Worn & Wound.

According to Worn & Wound’s content management system, I’ve authored over 1,500 articles for this website. That’s a lot! A big percentage of those articles have been spent simply describing watches, and giving you my impressions and thoughts on how they succeed and fail in doing whatever it is they’re trying to do (besides keep time – that’s basically assumed going in). Over the course of 1,500 articles, I’m 100% positive that I’ve been guilty of using many of the watch writer cliches that all of us try to avoid. But it’s hard! There are only so many ways, after all, that you can communicate in writing that a particular color provides an accent on the dial, or that a bit of finishing is impressive but not mind blowing, or that the specs don’t tell the whole story of how a watch is experienced when you’re wearing it.  Over time, I’ve tried to mitigate the use of cliches by simply not writing about the things that are so obvious they fall into the realm of cliche. For example: if a watch has a red seconds hand, you can see that it has a red seconds hand in the photos. There’s no need for me to characterize the red as a “splash” or a “pop” or anything else. It’s there. You, the reader, are intelligent and can decide if you like it or not, whether it needs to be splashier or poppier. I try to give you my thoughts on the whole package, cohesively. If I have any! I have to admit, sometimes, a watch is just a watch to me. It can be a perfectly...

It’s only been a couple of months since we talked about Kiwame Tokyo, a new micro-brand from Japan with the goal of delivering “honest watchmaking from Asakusa” and “affordable Japanese watches.” The project of industry veteran Masami Watanabe, the brand started with an appealing Calatrava-inspired pair of watches offered at a fair price, the Kurotsuki […]

The watch sold for $5+ million more than the next-highest non-charity AP ever sold.

There’s something strangely fitting about a new Timex collaboration with Toddy Snyder dropping this month in the form of the new Olive Marlin seen here. The Marlin, in its current form, is frequently described as being inspired by the style of the Mad Men era. The AMC series started many menswear trends and the archives of sites like ours and many watch and menswear forums are ripe with stories about Mad Men’s watches, how to achieve the Don Draper look, and so on. Mad Men is on my mind right now though not because of the release of this new piece from Timex, but because of the quite hysterical gaffe made by someone at HBO Max, who inadvertently put up uncut and unedited versions of the show when it made its HBO Max streaming premiere on the first of the month. This was supposed to be a big moment for the debut of the new 4K scans of the show, but instead, everyone is talking about a puke hose.  I’m not the biggest Mad Men guy out there, but I like the show well enough, and I watched a few of my favorite episodes over the weekend to test the waters on a full rewatch. Maybe I’ll report back on that, at some point. For now, I can say that the style of the show (not just the clothes, but entire production design) remains just about perfect at evoking a very specific era, and the watches always played a major role in that. The Marlin would have felt right at home on this set.  For this new Todd Snyder collaboration, the dial has been given a coat of the designer’s ...

The Time Jumper is Czapek's first jump-hour watch and features a half-hunter case, a nod to the brand's pocket-watch legacy, in both gold and steel.

Following a pause in Speedy Tuesday events (the last one took place at the end of 2023), we invite you to register for the upcoming Speedy Tuesday event in Hong Kong. This event will take place on January 13th, 2026, and will be co-hosted by Omega. Speedy Tuesday Hong Kong Event 2026 Nothing beats meeting […] Visit Sign Up For The January 2026 Speedy Tuesday Event In Hong Kong to read the full article.

H. Moser releases Act II of their Genesis project which began with the Endeavour Centre Seconds Genesis as Act I, and continues the trilogo saga.

Looking for a tough, affordable beater watch? We reviewed the best under $300 with real-world wear tests, accuracy checks, and pros and cons to guide your pick.

Founded in 1906 in the Place de Vendôme, Van Cleef & Arpels is the signature behind delightful high jewellery and timepieces inspired by fairies, flowers and butterflies. With its rich history and impressive lineup of artisans, Van Cleef’s Extraordinary Objects collection is home to some of the most spellbinding automata. The Brassée de Lavande (an […]

Celebrating its 25th anniversary, Formex continues to excite while exploring materials and mechanical substance with the new Essence Ceramica Dark Matter, a watch that fuses the brand’s most advanced ceramic construction with a dial cut from the depths of space itself. Following the Essence Space Ghost and the full-ceramic Essence Ceramica, this latest creation unites […]