Latest watch news · Page 21

When this one came across my inbox earlier this week, it honestly took me by surprise. How is it, I thought to myself, that Seiko hadn’t already made a bonsai themed watch at one point or another?  Look, there are certainly dozens, if not hundreds, of Seiko releases over the years that are simply a blind spot for me, so it’s completely possible that they’ve done a bonsai watch in the past and I simply wasn’t aware of it. But doesn’t it seem like the most natural thing ever? Seiko, through their Presage collection, has long explored traditional Japanese craft techniques, and bonsai has to be among the most internationally recognizable and quintessentially Japanese of crafts. Bonsai is also connected to nature, another theme that runs through Seiko and Grand Seiko’s work pretty consistently.  The new HCC009 is a new limited edition in the Presage family made in partnership with Tradman’s Bonsai. Tradman’s Bonsai was founded in 2015, and has a “ a mission to share the traditional Japanese art of bonsai with the world.” Since their inception, they’ve worked with collaborators in the fashion and art world in an effort to both preserve what’s important about traditional bonsai while simultaneously “redefining the concept of Japanese cool,” according to a press release.  The watch itself has a 38mm gold tone case and matching gold tone bracelet. The dial  is inspired by Japanese black pine bonsai when illuminated by the moon, and is rendered in mat...

Twelve on Time is a conversation series that invites leading personalities from the watch industry to step beyond their work and speak more personally about their relationship with time, creativity, and craft. Through a set of twelve questions, the column aims to lift the veil on both the individual and their perspective on watchmaking – […]

Twelve on Time is a conversation series that invites leading personalities from the watch industry to step beyond their work and speak more personally about their relationship with time, creativity, and craft. Through a set of twelve questions, the column aims to lift the veil on both the individual and their perspective on watchmaking—revealing not […]

Friday is here, which means it’s time for another list! This week, we follow up on a discussion we had on Fratello Talks two weeks ago. In that episode, Robert-Jan, Nacho, and I discussed the ultimate decade for watches. RJ and I chose the nineties as our favorite decade for watches because new technology significantly […] Visit The Top 5 Rolex Models From The 1990s to read the full article.

FounderFest launches, Time+Tide heads behind the scenes at MotoGP, and Tom reflects on why not every watch needs to be an everyday watch.

For 25 years, MeisterSinger’s signature single-hand watches encouraged a more relaxed perception of time, focusing on the broader flow of the day rather than its smallest divisions. Earlier this year, the German brand presented the Edition Unitas 1Z, a limited anniversary model that revived the original 2004 Edition 1Z, its first watch to feature a […]

What’s the best watch-related invention ever? I realize it’s not an easy question to answer, but please, give it a go. I asked myself the exact same thing, and I concluded that it has to be the crown. We have Jean-Adrien Philippe to thank for that. Now we have the Minerva, The Unveiled Crownless, the […] Visit This Bezel Does It All: Introducing The Minerva The Unveiled Crownless to read the full article.

IWC introduced the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ProSet 140 Years Mercedes-Benz on August 13, 2026. Reference IW329603 is limited to 140 pieces, one for each year since the invention of the automobile in 1886. The anniversary edition combines a 42mm stainless steel case with a black-and-gold dial and IWC’s new ProSet perpetual calendar, which can be corrected both forward and backward. The limited IW329603 combines a 42mm steel case, black dial and gold details. Image: IWC. The dial is the best part I like the design, especially the dial. The glossy black surface gives the four subdials enough visual separation, while the solid gold appliqués and gold-plated hands make the display warmer without making it look gaudy. A white minute track keeps the outer edge clear. The date sits at 3 o’clock, the month at 6, the day at 9 and the Double Moon display at 12. A four-digit year window appears between 7 and 8 o’clock. The angled view shows the solid gold appliqués, gold-plated hands and four calendar subdials. Image: IWC. The brushed and polished steel case is 42mm wide and 14mm thick. It remains a substantial watch, especially on my 6.5-inch wrist, but these dimensions are easier to imagine wearing than the traditional oversized Big Pilot format. A convex sapphire crystal has anti-reflective coating on both sides, while the sapphire caseback carries the first joint Mercedes-Benz logo from 1926, combining the three-pointed star with a laurel wreath. That histori...

Now beginning its second decade under the leadership of Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) has introduced the Chronomètre FB 2TV.1, the first model in the new Mesure du Temps 1787 collection. The FB 2TV represents an evolution of the brand’s long-running chain-and-fusee architecture, adding zero-reset seconds and a flying tourbillon, and inverting the calibre to exhibit its key functional elements on the dial side. Initial thoughts It’s hard to believe that it has been ten years since the debut of Ferdinand Berthoud as a contemporary brand. It was clear from the outset that FB had big ambitions, launching its first model with a chain and fusee mechanism. Since then, FB has maintained admirably high standards for itself, and while not all of the designs appeal to me, the obvious effort that goes into every watch — each FB 2TV receives more than 300 hours of decoration — has won the brand a durable position near the top of the industry. Now beginning its second decade, FB has released the first watch in a new collection that portends a more mechanically expressive style, with features like the chain and fusee inverted to the dial side. This approach isn’t original, but the success of other ‘inverted’ movements from independents like Kari Voutilainen demonstrate demand for the format. Quirky designs Ferdinand Berthoud, an 18th-century pioneer of the spring detent escapement among other breakthroughs, approached watchmaking fr...

Last Thursday evening, the Windup Watch Shop Showroom filled up fast as we welcomed our friends from Islander for the worldwide debut of the brand-new Islander Saltaire Solar Diver. All evening, the room buzzed with the particular energy that only a first-look launch can bring—the chance to be among the very first people anywhere to see, handle, and try on a watch that, until that night, most of the enthusiast world had only seen in renderings.   The Saltaire Solar Diver took center stage from the moment the doors opened. Displayed for the first time in the metal, the new release drew a steady crowd around the display trays, where attendees leaned in to study the dial textures, the case finishing, and the solar-powered movement that gives the watch its name. Being in the room for a debut like this is its own kind of experience; there’s a real difference between reading a spec sheet and feeling a watch land on your wrist for the first time, and the Showroom gave everyone the space to do exactly that. Adding to the occasion was the Islander Watch team themselves, on hand throughout the evening to talk through the new diver and answer every question the crowd could throw at them. Chief among them was the one and only Marc Frankel, whose brand leadership and enthusiasm for the community was on full display all night. Getting to hear directly from the people behind the watch, turned a launch into a genuine conversation between a brand and the enthusiasts who love it. Of co...

Baltic’s Heures du Monde “Horizon Line” Time+Tide Studio Edition pairs a forged carbon dial with a worldtimer complication.

New watch season is right around the corner, and our friends at Time & Tide are among the first to move, thanks to not one but seven new watches arriving in September. The watches coincide with the launch of the brand's own watch fair, FounderFest, a show built around independent watchmaking and live music in equal measure. Rather than one exclusive location, FounderFest spans Time & Tide's three Watch Discovery Studios: New York (460 Broome St), Melbourne (178 Collins St), and London (Portland House, 4 Great Portland Street), running 19–20 September, with New York serving as the event's HQ, hosting founders, live interviews, and musical performances. I recently had the chance to see—and photograph—every new piece coming next month. The watches go up for sale globally on 22 September via thefounderfest.com, which will also host the festival online for anyone not on the ground in one of the three cities. Let's jump right in! AWAKE — Sơn Mài Frosted Leaf 'Ultraviolet' Awake may only be seven years old, but in that short time, word has spread quickly on the Sơn Mài and its lacquer dials. For those unfamiliar, these dials are built from layers of natural lacquer applied by hand to the dial surface, then carefully sanded back, worked, and reapplied, a process repeated until the desired depth, texture, and visual effect are met. For the 'Ultraviolet' edition, they've added pure silver-leaf gilding and natural purple and black pigments, resulting in pieces of silver s...

Over the past decade, Time+Tide has evolved from an Australian online watch publication into one of the influential platforms dedicated to watchmaking, and independent watchmaking in particular. Alongside its editorial content, the company has expanded into retail with its Watch Discovery Studios in Melbourne, London and New York. This year, the company is launching FounderFest, […]

This September the Time+Tide Studios in London, Melbourne, and New York will host a watch fair reimagined like you've never seen before.

By now, you’re probably well aware of the incredibly enriching experience I had with Citizen Watch Company at their manufacturing facilities getting a peek behind the curtain at the genius that is the brand’s proprietary Eco-Drive technology. However, as I teased on a podcast episode, the warmth and transparency of every member of Citizen’s team was not the only thing that made this press trip so unique and special. Flying us quite literally halfway around the world, Citizen created an incredibly generous itinerary that left space for cultural experiences and personal exploration. The trip both kicked off and concluded in Tokyo, and here, there are three activities not to be missed. We were fortunate that Citizen planned the trip during one of the most beautiful and remarkable times of the year in Japan – cherry blossom season. It was essential to have a proper viewing experience of the breathtaking trees before the blooms fell for the season, which is only a short window. This is what makes the cherry blossoms so special – their impermanence and their beauty serve as a reminder to cherish the good moments while they last. With this relationship to time, it’s no wonder the color and delicate texture of the blossoms have long been a muse for Japanese watchmakers. I took in this experience at the Shinjuku Gyoen Garden, which is just a short 30-minute train ride from Tokyo’s city center and mere steps from the platform of the Shinjuku Station. Let me pause here ...

Seiko has introduced two new Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship watches that return to one of the most important designs in its history. The HCC005J1 uses a handmade white enamel dial while the HCC006J1 takes a darker route with black Urushi lacquer and a yellow-gold-coloured case. Both were announced on 13 August 2026 and are scheduled to reach Seiko boutiques and selected retailers in September 2026. These are not simple colour changes. Each model uses a traditional Japanese dial technique and each has its own character. The white version is the clearer tribute to Seiko’s original Laurel wristwatch from 1913. The black model keeps the same basic layout but changes the mood completely through lacquer, gold details and a warm case finish. A Return to the 1913 Laurel The Laurel is important because it was Japan’s first wristwatch. Its white enamel dial, expressive Arabic numerals and red 12 became a clear visual signature. Seiko has used those details before, but the HCC005J1 brings them together in a convincing modern package. The red numeral at 12 immediately catches the eye while the curved black numerals and blue hands keep the design easy to recognise. The new watches also add a 24-hour display at six o’clock. It gives the dial a little more depth without disturbing the balance of the numerals. This is not an independently adjustable second-time-zone function. It follows the main time and shows whether the watch is indicating the first or second half of the day...

It wouldn’t be summer without a proper skin diver or regatta timer, or how about both? Roughly one year ago, we got the latest reimagining from Albishorn, giving us a mash up of two seafaring classics with the brand’s signature vintage-inspired spin. The result was the Marinagraph, originally offered in two colors, one with a sunburst black dial with lume-filled applied silver indices called the “Classic Racing” and one with a bolder sunburst Paraíba tourmaline green dial with lume-filled black indices called the “Paraíba Racing.” The Classic Racing variant got its own pops of color with green accents on the bezel along with a red strap highlighting the red accents seen across both versions in the chronograph hand, tide indicator, regatta timer, and model name printed beneath the brand name in retro script. Needless to say, the debut duo of Marinagraph Classics offered an audacious combination of styling and functionality. This summer, Albishorn presents another pair of colors to join the collection, this time with a slightly more classic and sober design, aptly named the Classic Fume and simply the Classic. As a refresher, the foundation of the Marinagraph design draws inspiration from the America’s Cup crews, in particular those in the race’s renaissance. The 1958 edition marked the race’s return after a long hiatus post-war, and one of the standout vessels was Columbia, the American yacht representing the New York Yacht Club. This vessel notably feat...

IWC releases a new Big Pilot's Watch to celebrate Mercedes-Benz's 140 years of innovation. This novelty features a Perpetual calendar with Proset.

Albishorn, an independent Swiss brand founded in 2024 by Sébastien Chaulmontet, focuses on “imaginary vintage” watches, “what if” models that are visually grounded in the past – but which never existed. A year after its debut, Albishorn released the Marinagraph, a robust skin diver with a patented 10-minute regatta countdown function that “could have” been […]

What We Know Swiss brand Albishorn, carving out a niche with "imaginary vintage" designs, just released a simplified version of its regatta chronograph with the Marinagraph Classic. I first covered this complication in my hands-on review two years ago with the Albishorn Maxigraph, the brand's debut model and a collaboration with Massena LAB. Since then, the regatta chronograph has lived on under Albishorn's "Water" collection as the Marinagraph, combining the complication with a tide bezel. Today's Marinagraph Classic isn't all that different from the Marinagraph Classic Racing. Visually, the biggest difference is the swap from that colorful aluminum insert tide bezel to a large bidirectional sapphire bezel with more traditional, lumed markings. And yes, there are new dials too. While the sunray-brushed black dial remains, the new dial comes in the form of a white fumé color, with what could have been misconstrued as a shadow in the brand photography actually a subtle dark fade around the edges of the white dial. The black dial sports contrasting silver hands and markers, while the ones on the white fumé dial offer a stark black contrast. On both dials, the ten-minute retrograde regatta countdown scale at 7 o'clock is colored in blue and red, while the chronograph and regatta seconds hands are matched on each dial in either red for the black dial or blue for the white. My favorite feature since the first Maxigraph has been the aperture at 3 o'clock, serving as a running ...

Some brands flourish in the field of heritage watchmaking, at least for inspiration. Remakes, re-editions, re-designs and whatnot all rely on successful designs of the past. Nivada Grenchen is one of those brands, bringing back several very popular models from its rich history, yet it also has a more quirky side. Recreating a rather obscure […]

There’s a particular kind of contentment that comes from wearing a watch that asks nothing of you, and the master of this is the field watch. No complications to set, no bezel to align, no story to tell anyone who asks. Just a black dial, white numerals, two hands, and maybe a date. I feel […] Visit The Simple Pleasures Of Field Watch Design to read the full article.