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This one is for you, Dad.

It tends to be a big deal when a watchmaker unveils their first “in-house” movement, a pivotal milestone that often marks a step into the upmarket. For Italian brand Venezianico, tapping into the expertise of Fausto Berizzi, the technical director of OISA, was the key to their first proprietary mechanical caliber, designed, registered, and built entirely in Italy. The result is the Redentore Utopia, and its beating heart: the V5000 Caliber mechanical movement.  In a break from convention, the Redentore Utopia is more of a stage for the V5000 Caliber movement-a catalyst for the Venezianico brand and its future momentum. Still, Venezianico matches the enthusiasm of the movement with a visually-gripping timepiece that certainly doesn’t signal its status as simply a vessel for the brand’s technical growth. Wearing a 316L stainless steel case that measures at 38mm in diameter and 8.9mm in thickness, the Utopia is firmly a dress watch. The deep blue dial is constructed via ion plating and features a dazzling, hand-engraved guilloché pattern, designed exclusively for the Utopia on a rose engine lathe by master artisan Riccarfo Renzetti. The result is a radial motif that gives the appearance of being in constant motion, with light glancing off each angle as the watch is shifted on the wrist.  On the dial, baton-style, hand-applied indices line the circumference, and faceted alpha hands match the stainless steel case’s polished finish. The sole text detail on the dia...

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Frederique Constant has a 40mm steel perpetual calendar watch with a radiant salmon dial and in-house movement under US$10K. How?The post Frederique Constant has a 40mm salmon dial perpetual calendar for under US$10k?! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.

Federique Constant's latest edition to their Vintage Rally Healy line with three new watches in distinct colours in a nod to Healey, the British racing car.

Eska may not be a well-known brand, but this revived Swiss watchmaker is gaining attention among enthusiasts. Initially founded in 1918 by Silvan Kocher (whose initials inspired the brand’s name), Eska built a reputation in the mid-20th century before succumbing to the Quartz Crisis in the 1980s. Reborn under the direction of Christophe Chevreton and […]

Every year, I tell myself I’ll resist the urge to make another list. And yet, here we are again. A fresh calendar year always seems to bring with it a fresh batch of watch cravings - some new, some old, and some I’ve come close to buying before but never quite pulled the trigger on. […] Visit What’s On My Wish List? - The Watches Dave Wants To Buy Next In 2025 to read the full article.

Seiko show off a sense of humour with a diver commemorating a movie that's done more to put off people from ocean swimming than any other.The post We’re gonna need a bigger watch: Seiko celebrates Jaws’ 50th anniversary with a limited-edition Prospex Turtle appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The title Just Because says it all… because today we’re not talking about the latest release of a brand for sale the next day in stores, waiting for you to spend your money. Today, we are publishing a story for a good cause, to benefit those in need, those who have fewer opportunities than many […]

With summer quickly approaching for many of us, it’s time to start thinking about your watch for the long summer days. Some of us will swap a bracelet for a colorful strap, while others will make it their mission to find a new timepiece for the season. We picked five of our recently released favorites […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Summer Watches For 2025 - Featuring Doxa, Farer, Seiko, And More to read the full article.

Almost exactly one year ago, J&Berg;, a new Finnish brand, launched with its debut model, the B2. The watches were met with near-universal praise due to their looks, materials, and specifications. A clean, modern design that could only be described as Nordic seemed to be a crowd-pleaser. After the success of the initial references, the […] Visit The J&Berg; B2 Returns With Two New Dial Colors to read the full article.

Solar watches have been associated with the Japanese for the longest time, but Tissot is trying to change that. The post What goes into making a fully Swiss solar watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Founded in 2016 by Sébastien Muller, Brellum has consolidated a portfolio of well-built chronographs with a slightly vintage aura powered by chronometer-certified movements. With a limited production of around 299 watches a year, Brellum’s policy of direct sales allows the brand to keep its prices in check. The Pandial collection highlighted its racetrack credentials with […]

Tudor’s Black Bay line has become the foundational building block for the modern brand. The Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” brings the summer vibes in the form of a 37mm dive watch. Let’s take a look. Tudor was once a more affordable entry point into the Rolex stable, sharing many parts, including cases, crowns, and […] Visit Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” to read the full article.

Seiko marks 50 years since the release of Steven Spielberg’s landmark thriller about a killer shark with the Seiko Prospex JAWS 50th Anniversary Limited Edition. Based on the vintage-inspired “turtle” remake, the Jaws edition will be available only in Japan, United States, Australia, and Taiwan, and is limited to 5,000 examples. Initial Thoughts The Jaws anniversary edition is thoroughly Jaws themed, but subtle enough to blend in alongside the Save the Ocean and PADI special editions. This, combined with the sub-US$1,000 price point, makes for a competent, well-priced automatic dive watch means the watch will appeal to more than just fans of the film. A Jaws-themed dive watch is also a more natural fit than many of Seiko’s other pop-culture themed crossovers, especially since Hooper, one of the film’s protagonists, wears a cushion-cased diver. Don’t go in the water The bi-color dial takes inspiration from the iconic film poster by Roger Kastel. And, the embossed ripping water pattern also conceals the shark itself, which is only visible from certain angles. The Jaws logo below the hands matches the typography of the poster perfectly. The theming continues on the case back, with the fishing boat from the film, Orca, and the shark’s dorsal fin laser etched on the back, along with the limited edition number. The bezel sports a ceramic insert in dark blue Otherwise, it is a standard Seiko “King Turtle” with a 45 mm cushion case that’s water resistant to 20...

The day I visited Biver started like any other – with breakfast. But it wasn’t a normal breakfast, because I was seated opposite Jean-Claude Biver, at his own kitchen table. A few days after Watches & Wonders wrapped up I had the opportunity to visit the brand’s atelier in the countryside near Geneva, and I was lucky enough to spend some time with the man himself before he went to the airport; he was headed to Boston to deliver a guest lecture at Harvard Business School. Dismissed in his early career as a ‘nostalgia salesman,’ Mr Biver helped pioneer the contemporary luxury watch industry in the midst of the Quartz Crisis by proving the consumer demand for artisanal mechanical watches. The story is well-known but it bears repeating; Mr Biver, together with his friend Jacques Piguet, head of the esteemed Frederic Piguet manufacture, paid CHF22,000 to buy the rights to a defunct brand from what would later become Swatch Group. Their deft products and marketing made Blancpain one of the stars of the mechanical watch renaissance, allowing the pair to sell the brand back to Swatch a decade later for CHF60 million. From left to right: CEO James Marks, Jean-Claude Biver, and Pierre Biver. Image – Biver The success of Blancpain was extraordinary and helped pave the way for the rebirth of other brands like A. Lange & Söhne. But this was just the opening act. After selling Blancpain back to Swatch, Mr Biver helped put Omega on the wrist of James Bond and transformed Hub...

Tudor is beach-ready with a new version of the vintage-sized dive watches, the Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue”. Matched with a “five-link” bracelet, the relaxed colorway – on a granular, textured dial notably – targets a different market without sacrificing the Black Bay 54’s impressive specifications or value proposition. Initial Thoughts The 37 mm case and utilitarian looks of the standard Black Bay 54 made it a great unisex option, perfect for men who appreciate vintage proportions or women who want a dive watch they could wear without it wearing them, or anyone in between. Tudor is arguably leaning towards a more feminine style in its marketing with the “Lagoon Blue”, though with the current popularity of turquoise dials, this is sure to be another gender-neutral hit.  The keen-eyed will also note the slightly reflective, granular dial finish,  which isn’t that novel in itself, but is notable for Tudor, which traditionally employs plainer dial surfaces. New look aside, the Lagoon Blue is still an excellent value. When considering the build quality, high-spec movement, and micro-adjust clasp, it’s difficult to find anything comparable at US$4,350, which alone is commendable. This, combined with a Jubilee-esque bracelet and in-vogue colorway, make the Black Bay 54 Lagoon Blue extremely compelling. The Slow Life The brand says the Lagoon Blue is meant to honor the slow life, but it’s still a capable diver, with well-lumed hands, dial, and bezel pip, i...

Simple, durable and with plenty of history behind them, we take a closer look at our favourite MIL-SPEC watches.The post 12 of the best MIL-SPEC watches for soldiers and civvies alike appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Get ready, Windup Watch Fair fans-we’re headed back to Chicago! Continuing the 10th anniversary tour of Windup, Worn & Wound is thrilled to announce that the Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2025 will take place Friday, July 11th – Sunday, July 13th at Venue West. We’ll be bringing together watch enthusiasts, collectors, and some of the most exciting brands in the industry for a weekend packed with timepieces, community, and hands-on discovery. Windup Watch Fair Chicago Friday, July 11 – Sunday, July 13, 2024 Venue West 221 N Paulina St Chicago, IL 60612 Free and open to the public. For the fourth year in a row, we’re returning to the heart of the West Loop with a strong lineup and fresh programming. Whether you’re a seasoned watch lover or just starting your watch journey, Windup Chicago offers something for everyone. As always, Windup is free and open to the public so bring your friends and family. All are welcome. This year, we’re proud to welcome Atelier Wen, Casio, Christopher Ward, Citizen, and Oris as our Lead Sponsors of the show. These five brands represent the incredible diversity of modern watchmaking-from iconic heritage designs to rugged tool watches, from innovative materials to independent vision. In addition to the bustling show floor, Windup Chicago 2025 will feature exclusive panels, live podcast recordings, and behind-the-scenes conversations with some of the most interesting voices in the watch world. These sessions offer a chance to dive dee...

Over the last few weeks there’s been plenty of discussion here, on the podcast, and around the internet on the current viability of Seiko as an enthusiast brand. Seiko, to put it plainly, was once at the center of watch enthusiast culture, and now they are quite simply not. The reasons for that are complicated and deserve close examination, but while we examine the state of Seiko it’s important to remember that the brand is still capable of releasing interesting watches that surprise us and put a smile on our faces, even if the pleasure derived from them is a bit more fleeting than that of an all-time enthusiast classic. Case in point: the new SRPL81, otherwise known as the Jaws 50th Anniversary Limited Edition. Yes, Seiko made a dive watch to celebrate the anniversary of Jaws, a movie that has famously been the root of a fear of the oceans across generations.  There’s little that needs to be said about Jaws that hasn’t been said at this point, right? It’s one of the greatest movies ever made, and a film that should have been impossible to produce, made by a gifted but inexperienced director still in his 20s and shot largely on the water, something which to that point had never really been attempted. Jaws singlehandedly paved the way for the modern blockbuster, upending the traditional release strategy for movies coming out of major studios. It’s still, 50 years later, the ultimate summer movie, and still has the power to frighten us and make us laugh (Hooper ...

A new movement and upgraded lume complement new dial designs.

Over the past few years, the name Gérald Genta has become one of the most famous in the watch industry. There are multiple reasons for this. First, thanks to the work done by Evelyne and Alexia Genta (respectively his wife and daughter), with the Gerald Genta Heritage Association. Second, the so-called “Picasso of Watches” was […]

Usually when watchmakers brag about space cred, they bring up models that have gone to space or that are made of rocks from space or that take inspiration from the solar system. Zach Smith has them all beat: the Ohio-based horological craftsman makes aerospace engineering components (among other things) at his workshop, Hour Precision. Smith had hoped from the start that Hour Precision would make watches, and found along the way the machines and expertise you need to machine intricate watch movement pieces translate well to making parts for semiconductors, medical equipment, and, of course, aerospace components. That move into non-horological industries came relatively recently for Smith, however. Before the micro-machining and before he founded Hour Precision, Smith was a high-school-aged watch enthusiast who landed a job in a jewelry school. “I was fixing heart rate monitor watches. There was a brand called Polar before the Apple Watch that made fitness watches, and I started off doing that and then moved,” said Smith. “My boss at the time was selling pre-owned Rolex. He would buy product from walk-ins and from other suppliers and refurbish the Rolex watches, polish them, etc., and then sell them. After a while where I was doing well with the Polar watches, he asked me if I wanted to start doing that.” Zach Smith, front left, upon graduation from watchmaking school. Image courtesy Zach Smith @zachsmiami From there, Smith moved to another store that processed betw...

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Independent watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin adds two more watch models to his acclaimed Wristmons collection: the Joker Iron Mask and Joker Golden Mask. These latest creations evolve the Joker concept through an open-dial design that merges theatrical inspiration with traditional watchmaking finishes. Konstantin Chaykin first explored open-dial Wristmons in 2020, debuting the idea with the unique […]

Farer updates its Aqua Compressor line with three models featuring the La Joux-Perret G101 movement, upgraded lume, and refined dials.