Latest watch news · Page 34

What do you think of when you think of Hanhart? I think it’s fair to say that for most of us, the watches that come to mind immediately are very distinctly tool oriented watches. Aviation inspired chronographs with that iconic red pusher, simple but tough field watches, and maybe a diver for good measure. And while certainly the brand dabbles in more elegant fare from time to time, a shaped design forward watch like the Square by Square feels very unexpected. But maybe it shouldn’t? We are, after all, in a moment where everyone is trying their hand at stone dials, shaped cases, and generally challenging the sensibilities of a market previously laser focused on sports watches.  Hanhart, of course, has been around for a very long time, and the Square by Square’s DNA can be traced back to shaped watches in the brand’s extensive archive. This is, however, a completely new design. The brand worked with Marcus Wiedemann, a Munich based designer they have collaborated with previously, on the Square by Square, which was originally an entry in the Dubai Watch Week x Grail Watch Design Competition. The design wound up being named as a finalist in the (very specific) “Most out-of-the-box, innovative yet viable shaped watch design” category.  What we have here is a case that at first presents as a square, but tilted so that it sits on the wrist in a diamond shape. The chief design inspiration here, beyond the Hanhart archives, is the idea of “curved spacetime” and th...

2026 marks the 100th anniversary of the Oyster Perpetual, the game-changing waterproof watch that altered the course of Rolex’s history. Put to the test by British swimmer Mercedes Gleitze as she swam across the English Channel with a gold Oyster on her wrist in 1927, the hermetic Oyster case was further upgraded with a self-winding […]

DOXA x Hodinkee | A rare military reference reimagined for everyday wear. Launches July 30, 2026.

From the imposing astronomical clocks of Tudor England to the exquisite pendant watches of Victorian Britain, timekeeping has long been a symbol of power, prestige, and technological marvel within Europe’s royal courts. This new series explores the fascinating evolution of clocks and watches crafted specifically for royalty, tracing how these intricate masterpieces reflected the tastes, ambitions, and innovations of monarchs. Through the lens of craftsmanship, artistry, and historical significance, we reveal how these royal timepieces marked the passage of dynasties and empires. Maria Theresa was the ruler of the Habsburg monarchy from 1740 until her death in 1780, and the only woman to hold the position in her own right. Though crowned as Archduchess of Austria and Queen of Hungary and Bohemia, her true authority came from willpower, reform, and image-making. Maria Theresa ruled not as a king in disguise, but as a monarch in her own right, one who embraced both tradition and the flux of the Enlightenment. Horology, like art and music, became part of her sovereign language and a way to express her modernising ambitions and cultivated authority. Maria Theresa was born in Vienna on the 13th of May 1717, the eldest daughter of Emperor Charles VI and Empress Elisabeth Christine of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel. As a child of the Habsburg dynasty, she grew up in the Hofburg Palace (below) surrounded by the rituals and splendour of imperial court life. Although her father’s hopes ...

Perrelet releases an 50 piece limited edition to their Weekend GMT collection with the new Weekend GMT Atlas with a hand painted dial.

If you clicked on this article, it probably means that Swatch didn’t select you as one of the 1,969 lucky people who can buy the MoonSwatch Mission To The Moon 1969 with its Moonshine Gold dial, hands, and pushers. If it is of any comfort to you, none of us at Fratello got one either. […] Visit Didn’t Get Picked For The MoonSwatch 1969? Here Are Five Watches You Can Buy Instead to read the full article.

Chopard came out of Watches and Wonders this year swinging by simply introducing a new colored dial in the L.U.C. 1860, and perhaps it was a great indicator that sometimes, a show-stealer need not be a new mechanical innovation, but rather a refinement of an already great watch. But I would be remiss not to also talk about another release I loved seeing from the brand this year—also really just a new colorway in a limited run of 250 pieces—that I think has not gotten nearly enough love. The Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One ref. 168574-3013, in ceramicized titanium with a khaki green dial, marks a decade since the Time Traveler One's original introduction back in 2016. While the overall design of the worldtimer hasn't really changed, the brand hasn't held back in its use of different colors and metal variations for the model, leading to a varied back catalog for this single watch. This new version, with its combination of matte grey, green, and yellow, stands out quite a bit in Chopard's L.U.C lineup. It's the only L.U.C currently in production with a travel complication, and its understated, slightly rugged look literally contrasts with the generally polished, dressy executions of the other L.U.C models. That industrial vibe is thanks to the all-matte, sandblasted dark grey look of the ceramicized grade 5 titanium used for the 42mm by 12.09mm case, including both crowns—the one at 2 o'clock sets the local time and the date, while the crown at 4 o'clock adjusts the cit...

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, Mike is in Florida, and Balazs is in Hungary. But we’re here for you! In today’s discussion, we tackle a listener suggestion. We’re talking about entry-level watches and how brands approach this. Hint: it’s very different today, with greater expectations from the buyer. This podcast […] Visit Fratello On Air: Rethinking The Definition Of Entry-Level Watches to read the full article.

Astronomical watches are part of Ulysse Nardin‘s identity, and Dr Ludwig Oechslin, like no other, shaped this chapter of the manufacture’s history. Shortly after entrepreneur Rolf Schnyder acquired the brand in 1983, he challenged the Swiss astronomer, mathematician and watchmaker to create a wristwatch capable of displaying the movements of celestial bodies. The result was […]

The Chinese watch brand CIGA Design expands its most industrial line, the Hunter, with warmer tones. New Sand Gold, Rose Gold, and Brown Gold configurations allow the new Hunter Vintage to soften and bring warmth to the collection’s openworked design. The three colorways draw on visuals recalling the grand clock faces of the machine age, […] Visit CIGA Design’s Warmer Take On Its Most Industrial Line — The Hunter Vintage to read the full article.

For a young, French brand, Beaublue has managed to establish a strong visual identity with these being the five not to miss.

The Citizen Tsuyosa is one of the strongest contenders in the affordable automatic sports watch segment. Launched in 2022, the collection has steadily expanded with new sizes, colours and specifications, most recently gaining a more adventurous personality with the 100m water-resistant Tsuyosa Shore, equipped with a rotating bezel. Now, Citizen combines the sporty design of […]

Recent financial statements by industry institutions and groups have been on the positive side, with what seems to be a comeback of growth, after a couple of rather difficult years for the watch industry. Indeed, Richemont reported sales up by 20% for its first quarter of 2026, the Swatch Group indicated sales up 8.5% in […]

Making a dive watch stand out today is genuinely tough. The archetype has been reinterpreted so many times that most releases blur together. The Aera D-1 Diver, however, managed to catch my attention with its less-is-more design philosophy. This modern diver uses fairly minimalist visual cues and combines them with a beautifully sculpted case. Add […] Visit A Promising First Encounter With The Updated Aera D-1 Diver to read the full article.

Having made its name with auto-racing central chronographs, Singer Reimagined recently debuted its first-ever GMT, the DualTrack. Retaining the aesthetic established by Singer’s chronographs, the DualTrack is a straightforward “caller” dual-time watch with a local time display and independent 24-hour ring. On the back, however, the DualTrack reveals its party trick: a manual wind movement with four visible barrels that combine for six days of power reserve. Developed by an unnamed specialist (that is probably Chronode), the ST5001 has four mainsprings spread out across the movement with the balance hoisted above them, making for an unusual construction and layout. Initial thoughts I like Singer’s original proposition of racing-inspired central chronographs, which are true to the brand’s origins as an offshoot of the cult Porsche 911 mod specialist, Singer Vehicle Design. The Track 1 chronograph was a good debut concept backed by an innovative movement. The DualTrack is similar, but simpler, more affordable, and also more practical. The DualTrack still has the retro-inspired, cushion-shaped case that’s approximately the same as that on the chronograph, making it a little chunky, but the size feels appropriate for a sports watch. It also feels good on the wrist; in contrast, the smaller Caballero with the same base movement feels too small. But instead of a central chronograph, the DualTrack has a pair of useful features: a second time zone and a long power reser...

The Zenith Defy Extreme Ultraviolet is bold, unapologetically big, and has major wrist presence. And we love it! What We Love The look of the microblasted titanium case with the purple dial and strap The lightweight construction makes it easy to wear The 1/100th second chronograph is a fun complication to play with What We Don’t It is a larger watch that will not fit all wrists The style is not for everyone or everyday wear due to the size, design, and colour The power reserve could be stretched a little more to 60 hours if I’m being picky Overall Rating: 9 / 10 Value For Money: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 The Zenith DEFY Extreme is a cool watch, no matter how you look at it. This is the third DEFY Extreme I’ve been able to wear, and every time I put one on my wrist, it just feels right. Yes, it’s not exactly a technical analysis to start a watch review with, but there’s something about these watches that makes me smile. Last year, when I reviewed the DEFY Extreme Diver Shadow, I found it to be a surprisingly easy-wearing watch thanks to the titanium construction and the way Zenith has crafted the case design and bracelet. It wore exceptionally well on the wrist, although slightly smaller at 42.5mm. The Zenith DEFY Extreme models I went hands-on with last year However, I did then spend some time with the DEFY Extreme Lapis Lazuli with the high-polish two-tone case, which would be the Ultraviolet’s more flamboyant cousin. Agai...

A visual staple of grande sonnerie watches is a pair of large, highly finished and intriguing-looking click wheels. Continuing our exploration of various horological energy systems — including winding efficiency and the fusee and chain — we examine the linkage of ratchets, clicks and wide-toothed gears that comprise the winding works of some of the industry’s best chiming watches. A Patek Philippe grande sonnerie movement from 1915. One crown for two barrels The grande sonnerie is rightfully considered the pinnacle of chiming complications. With the ability to automatically sound the hours and quarters, a grande sonnerie requires heaps of power to keep it going over the course of a day. As a result, most grande sonnerie movements rely on a second mainspring barrel that is isolated from the timekeeping going train. The requirement for independent barrels stems from the different rates at which the barrels unwind. The striking works require a faster-turning barrel that’s only active for short periods, while the going train feeds from a slow and steady barrel. Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie pocket watch crafted by Philippe Dufour. As the barrels discharge unevenly, it makes sense that they cannot be wound in sync. Winding both mainsprings in sync would typically over-strain one of them since their winding states are rarely the same at any given time. Although the two barrels themselves are separated, they often share the same winding train. Now a signature of Vallée...

Over the last few years, Serica has emerged as one of these small indies or microbrands that has a real identity, seemingly right out of the gate. We often talk about brand like Ming, or Brew, or SpaceOne as new independents that are approachable and have a very distinct design language that you can recognize from across the room, but those brands have a cheat code of sorts in that they make watches that are unapologetically contemporary, or even looking toward the future. Having a genuinely unique perspective aesthetically when you trade in watches that have a vintage vibe about them is a very different proposition. It’s honestly very tough to think of a brand other than Serica that has attempted to do this and managed to pull it off so effectively.  The trick, I think, is that they’ve never attempted to actually recreate anything specific from the past. Rather, they’re inspired by vintage design codes, but feel a sense of freedom to interpret those ideas through their own lens. It’s not a modern lens, necessarily (I think that’s where a lot of brands get tripped up, trying to combine the aesthetic of a bunch of different eras in a single watch), but more of an imagined past, or alternate history.  Serica is not the only brand to take an approach like this. Isotope and Albishorn have both worked in a similar fashion in recent years, sometimes explicitly developing an elaborate fictional narrative to explain a watch (as is the case with Albishorn), and sometime...

It's the last week of July, so that means it's time for another Hodinkee Happy Hour! This installment will be held at Watches of Switzerland on Green St in SoHo. Space will be limited, and we may have something new and limited to show you, so please RSVP below if you'd like to join for a couple of hours of excellent local beer, pizza, and a whole lot of watches.  Our Editor-in-Chief, James Stacey, will be there, along with members of the Hodinkee team. Whether you've been to several of our events or this is your first, we'd love to have you! It's a great, casual way to get to know members of the Hodinkee team and the watch community here in New York City. Date:Thursday, July 30, 2026, 4:30 - 6:30 PM Location:Watches of Switzerland, SoHo60 Greene StreetNew York, NY 10012 Click here to RSVP. 

There’s a new indie watch brand on the scene. It seems that we’re telling this story every week. Sometimes, or should I say rather often, these new ventures are coming with pretty fascinating inaugural watches. So is the case of Atelier Pieters, a company founded by couple Maarten and Jessica Pieters. Two watchmakers, one workshop, […]

In our first addendum to our Reference Points video and story on Patek Philippe split-second wristwatches, we looked at Patek Philippe split-second pocket watches and the brand's relationship with its supplier, Victorin Piguet. Switzerland has (and continues to have) the most robust supplier marketplace for everything from complex movements to dials and cases. In the warmer months of the late 19th and early 20th Centuries, it was easy enough to just send someone on a short journey to the Vallée de Joux with a letter requesting a movement or other parts and receive one a short time later. These établisseurs all had their own specialties, but few were as important as Victorin Piguet. I'd argue it was far more unusual for Victorin Piguet not to be involved in a watch (such as their absence from the La Grosse Pièce project for Audemars Piguet) than to see their name on supplier lists. So what was their impact on wristwatches? In our video, we focused solely on serially produced models (and even then, there were a few we couldn't get our hands on), all of which started after Patek shifted its production more in-house. One thing we didn't discuss, however, was the history of the brand's first split-seconds wristwatches, which used a Victorin Piguet ébauche. It's no understatement that these watches are among the most important in Patek Philippe's history and among the most coveted for vintage-focused Patek collectors. One-off, bespoke pieces, these watches don't exactly fit...

Swiss indie BA111OD has introduced a new version of their Chapter 7 integrated bracelet sports watch featuring a skeleton dial. BA111OD has quietly been building a reputation these last few years for challenging long held conventions about value and what can be expected at certain price points (they make tourbillons starting at around $10,000). While the brand was founded in 2019, the family behind it has a watchmaking lineage that goes all the way back to the 18th century, so their perspective is shaped by both traditional Swiss watchmaking values and modern design sensibilities. I’ll be honest, my first reaction to the core Chapter 7 watches when they were initially introduced was essentially a shrug of the shoulders. Certainly there was nothing wrong with it, but it seemed to me to be yet another integrated bracelet design, an idea that has quickly become generic in these years following the Royal Oak and Nautilus boom. Somehow, though, with the skeleton version of the Chapter 7, first seen with an anthracite PVD treatment, the watch seemed to come together for me. I’m a sucker for a well executed skeleton treatment on a sports watch, and BA111OD’s approach, with cantilevered indices over a solid rehaut surrounding the open dial, makes for a legible and easy to digest presentation.  Last week, BA111OD unveiled a new version of the Chapter 7 Skeleton with a natural steel finish that they say is inspired by the summer light in Neuchâtel, where the brand is based. ...

Ba111od releases a new version of the Chapter 7 Skeleton in natural stainless steel, without the anthracite PVD coating of the original model.