Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Diver Gets A Green Dial
The second design of the series sees a splash of color in a limited edition of 150 pieces.
Hodinkee
The second design of the series sees a splash of color in a limited edition of 150 pieces.
Worn & Wound
Whenever Bulgari introduces a new Serpenti, we see a familiar chorus of articles and reactions, often but not always from male members of the watch media, opining on the possibility of a “Serpenti for men”. We don’t like to gender watches around here and firmly believe that anyone can wear anything they’d like, but there’s also no point in denying that the Serpenti, for its entire history, has been aimed squarely at the ladies market, and that the watch itself, insofar as it resembles a piece of fine jewelry, possesses a certain inherent femininity. So the thought experiment of what a Serpenti that is truly gender neutral or even designed for a male wrist has persisted (even though it’s perfectly fine for some watches to just be what they are). Today, through a collaboration with MB&F;, we get an answer, kind of. The Bulgari x MB&F; Serpenti is an audacious reimagining of the core Serpenti idea, which is to interpret the body of a snake as a time telling device. MB&F;, of course, is the perfect collaborator for an endeavor like this. They’re no strangers to taking the essence of a living thing and turning it into a horological work of art. After frogs and bulldogs, the snake seems like a comfortable next step in populating the MB&F; zoo. The new creation, unlike a Serpenti Tubogas that is meant to wrap around a wrist, is worn like a traditional watch, at least in the sense that it consists of a case with a strap mounted to either end of it. That case though...
Monochrome
Back in early 2019, Omega announced the comeback of the legendary Calibre 321 – or at least a faithful recreation of the movement that powered the brand’s emblematic Speedmaster from its introduction in 1957 until around 1968, when the brand switched to the more reliable Calibre 861. The first watch with this historic movement inside […]
Worn & Wound
It’s hard to deny the outward appeal of a field watch. Tactical but not overly macho, mature but not boring-the traditional field watch “style” is eminently wearable for combatants, explorers, mountaineers, and the regular old civilian crowd. Classics like the Hamilton Khaki Field, Bulova A-11 “Hack”, Seiko Alpinist, Rolex Explorer, and many, many more, are icons of the category, and it’s hard to feel like there’s much more to be innovated or improved upon. The TUUL Filthy 13 is keenly aware of the history of the field watch. Its very name is a derivation of the “Dirty Dozen”-both the 1967 war movie about a squad of delinquent soldiers, and the twelve Swiss watchmakers commissioned to build a watch to help win World War II for the Allied forces in 1945. The Filthy 13 is a reference to Private Jake McNiece, the thirteenth member of the real-life military unit, left out of the film based on the squad’s feats-a cheeky signal of the Brooklyn-based company’s dedication to preserving the history and resilience of the field watch, while carving their own convention-breaking niche. I was given the opportunity to test out the Filthy 13, and was immediately drawn in by the well-laid out history and inspiration behind the watch. My first field watch was a Timex Weekender Indiglo given to me by my grandfather-a watch I still have and wear frequently-and I regularly pine after the Hamilton and Seiko 5 lineups. At first glance, the Filthy 13 is a well...
Hodinkee
Four years after the two brands' first collaboration, two of watchmaking's best designers get creative with an icon.
Monochrome
Bucherer, one of the world’s oldest and most esteemed watch retailers, now owned by Rolex, has long been a leader in the industry, and for a few years, offers its customers exclusive access to limited-edition timepieces created in collaboration with renowned partner brands. For years, collectors and enthusiasts have enjoyed unique adaptations of existing models, […]
Worn & Wound
The period between LVMH Watch Week and Watches & Wonders is usually pretty quiet on the watch release front, but Zenith teamed up with Revolution to drop a new edition of their ongoing series of “Cover Girl” reissues that is almost certainly the most radical rethinking of the concept yet. We’ve covered both of the previous Zenith x Revolution collaborations that sought to resurface one of the most famous references in Zenith’s vast archive. The first, introduced in 2020, was a fairly straightforward recreation of the vintage reference. The second was a titanium version, and just a little more esoteric. The third, though, is a real departure, crafted from carbon fiber for a dramatically different look and wearing experience. The headline here is the weight. On a hook and loop strap, the Cover Girl Carbon weighs just 55 grams, significantly lighter than even the titanium version released a few years ago. It’s a little more if you opt for the full carbon fiber bracelet, but more on that in a minute. The case is in the classic A384, tonneau shape, which measures 37mm in diameter and 12.5mm tall. According to Zenith and Revolution, the carbon fiber used here is of the high modulus variety, similar to what’s seen in high end bicycles and sports cars. The dial is also made from carbon fiber, which creates a coherent and aggressive look for the entire piece. It’s matte black and features the same “shark tooth” outer register that is common to the other Cover ...
Quill & Pad
Reimagining Serpenti into a Horological Machine required a complete redevelopment of this historical piece, not only in terms of mechanical engineering and movement conception, but also in terms of case design and manufacturing.
Deployant
From two of the most creative maisons in the industry, Bvlgari partners once again with MB&F; to release this new Serpenti.
Monochrome
Incredible things can happen when you put Bulgari’s designer extraordinaire and director of watchmaking, Fabrizio Buonamassa, and MB&F;’s visionary founder and creator, Max Büsser, in the same room. Joining forces for the second time, the dynamic duo has envisioned a new habitat for Bulgari’s iconic Serpenti that sheds its familiar feminine universe and takes possession […]
Time+Tide
MB&F; shows off a new spin on the Bulgari icon.The post The Bulgari Serpenti becomes a horological machine with a little help from MB&F; appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
MB&F; turns 20 this year, and is celebrating in style with a number of new releases planned. The first was the launch of the Legacy Machine Longhorn editions just under a month ago, and today the brand has partnered with Bulgari to unveil the Bulgari x MB&F; Serpenti, a new take on the Italian jeweller’s iconic Bulgari creation. Available in three separate limited editions of 33 pieces each in titanium, rose gold, and steel (pictured above, left to right), the Serpenti takes on the provocative form of a serpent’s head, with the time read via rotating domes inside the creature’s “eyes”. Initial thoughts I’ve always appreciated the Bulgari Serpenti, arguably the only successful watch model to break with conventional bracelet design. So I was intrigued to see the brand’s collaboration with MB&F; dispense with the iconic spiral-shaped bracelet and focus instead on the serpent’s head. The intrigue of this Serpenti is centered on its case, which is understandably complex to create, given its flowing, organic shape and the need for enough precision to seal all five oddly shaped sapphire crystals well enough to earn a 30 m water resistance rating. With hinged lugs front and rear, the Serpenti will likely wear well on most wrists, despite its 18 mm thickness and 53 mm case length. The Serpenti is brought to life by a bespoke movement born from the HM10 Bulldog. Like its predecessor, the time is read via the “eyes” which are comprised of paper-thin aluminium domes; ...
Revolution
Fratello
Please be aware that the headline does not refer to The Art of Speculation, a 1931 book by Philip Carret (1896–1998), a man considered a Wall Street legend and a leading thinker in basic value investing. Rather, I’m speculating what Vacheron Constantin has in store for us this year. As you’re probably well aware, this […] Visit Applying The Art Of Speculation To The Current Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection to read the full article.
Revolution
Time+Tide
These four models evoke the spirit of WWII-era-issued field watches at an affordable price point.The post Canadian microbrand Redwood’s Standard Issue collection are love letters to vintage field watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Brellum is a recent comer to the watch scene, founded by watchmaker Sébastien Muller in 2016. With a limited annual production of around 300 watches and an emphasis on chronographs with chronometer-certified movements, the brand’s direct sales policy (no intermediaries) means that Brellum can keep its prices in check. One of the first models we […]
Fratello
The Rolex Submariner is one of my all-time favorite watches, and I am not alone. It is so widely loved that we almost don’t see it for what it is anymore. The Sub’s ubiquity makes it feel like an obvious, unimaginative choice. This, however, does gross injustice to its status as a benchmark and example […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Neo-Vintage And Recent Pre-Owned Rolex Submariner Opportunities to read the full article.
SJX Watches
A tribute to Seiko’s first-ever pocket watch dating to 1895, the Presage Craftsmanship Series SPB495 boasts a white fired enamel dial with elongated Roman numerals, a style typical of pocket watches during the turn of the century. As is tradition for the Presage Craftsmanship series, the fired enamel dial is produced in the workshop of Mitsuru Yokosawa in the traditional way, firing the enamel glaze in a high-temperature kiln, while staying accessible with a retail price of US$1,400. Initial thoughts Seiko has released numerous re-creations of its first wristwatch, the Laurel of 1913, including the recent Presage “Porter Classic” SPB449. However, with the SPB495, the brand now goes back even further to its first pocket watch, which is marking its 130th anniversary this year. Notably, this uses the revamped Presage case that’s a little smaller and slimmer than earlier generations. The case is still a little big for a dress watch, but acceptable and also necessary due to the size of the movement. The dial is typical of 19th century pocket watches and extremely classical, even by the standards of the classical Presage series. It’s basically another option for someone who appreciates the cost-performance offering of the Presage. Staying in the usual sweet spot for pricing of the Presage Craftsmanship Series, the SPB495 is priced competitively at US$1,400. Although it’s pricier than the base-model Presage offerings, the price is more than justified by the fired enam...
The post Some Of The Best Watches For Every Wrist Size appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Just because Daniel Wellington calls its watches minimalist doesn't mean they are. But if so, what does 'minimalism' mean?The post The difference between minimalism and laziness in watch design appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Unless you have been living under a rock for the last few weeks, you must have heard of the latest artificial intelligence (AI) software from China: DeepSeek. The perfect 6 watch collection – picked by DeepSeek We have previously toyed around with a few AI chatbots, notably ChatGPT and Meta AI. Given that DeepSeek isRead More
Monochrome
Often capturing the minds and hearts of collectors with their complex mechanism, perpetual calendars are amongst the most laureled complications around. In many cases, the array of calendar indications is displayed in a rather classical style. But not with these ones, as we take a look at some of the coolest QP watches in recent […]
Fratello
It has been a while since we covered Panerai’s Luminor Due collection. Mike wrote an article in 2019 when the brand went from the OPXXXIV to the new P.900 movement. He was a fan of the simpler Luminor Due models, mainly because of their dial design, the crown system, and the case shape. We thought […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Due PAM01539 With A Bold Burgundy Dial - Just In Time For Valentine’s Day to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Looking to bring some maximalist medieval flair to your watch? Buffy explains how to make a chainmail watch strap for yourself.The post How to make a chainmail watch bracelet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
After years of consideration, Bhanu Chopra took the plunge and bought both a Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 mm and a Submariner Reference 114060. And less than 24 hours after finally taking ownership of them, Rolex discontinued both watches! Here he shares the story of how it all went down. Spoiler alert: he couldn't be happier!
Fratello
You blink once, and it is Sunday again! Fear not - we have another big horological battle prepared to help you softly transition into action this morning. This week, we pit the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 against the iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” 16202. It is the watch world’s latest darling reissue versus the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 16202 Vs. Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 to read the full article.
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