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Introducing – The Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic & Chronograph Now in Titanium Monochrome
Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic & Chronograph Aug 30, 2024

Introducing – The Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic & Chronograph Now in Titanium

Maurice Lacroix entered the heavily contested luxury sports watch market quite some time ago, with the introduction of a mechanical Aikon back in 2018 already. Since then, it’s come in many colours and materials, and in different styles. From robust divers to chronographs, and from colourful summer watches to creatively complex renditions, it’s pretty much […]

H. Moser and Studio Underd0g Partner on an Unlikely Collaboration Worn & Wound
H. Moser Aug 30, 2024

H. Moser and Studio Underd0g Partner on an Unlikely Collaboration

If you had any doubts that the collaboration frenzy that has gripped the watch world has cooled, the first day of Geneva Watch Days may have gone a long way toward silencing that particular intrusive thought. Not only did we see a formal alliance between Ming, Fleming, and J.N. Shapiro that we told you about yesterday, but Moser, one of our favorite high end independents, and Studio Underd0g, one of our favorite affordable independents, joined forces in an unexpected way. The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit and the Studio Underd0g Passion Fruit 03Series play to each brand’s unique strengths, and reveal that while it might seem like an odd match on paper, these brands really do have a lot in common.  Let’s look at the perpetual calendar first. The stainless steel Endeavour case measures 42mm in diameter and is a very wearable 12.8mm tall. The dial has a blissful, tropical quality to it, dominated by a solid gold base dial and a lacquered purple surround. It runs, of course, on the HMC manufacture caliber 800, which is simply one of the best perpetual calendar movements in the game, providing more information at a glance you are likely to realize at first.  The Passion Fruit 03Series chronograph could be the Endeavour’s twin separated at birth – it makes use of the same color combinations but transposes them to a chronograph layout. It bears a lot of similarities to the original Studio Underd0g chronos, and the “passion fruit” theme feels like someth...

First Look – The Favre Leuba Deep Blue Revival, A Remake of a Historical Diver (incl. Video) Monochrome
Favre Leuba Deep Blue Revival Aug 30, 2024

First Look – The Favre Leuba Deep Blue Revival, A Remake of a Historical Diver (incl. Video)

A long-established name in the watch industry, with a deep heritage in crafting some of the most impressive tool watches during the golden era of mechanical watchmaking, Favre Leuba ad to face ups and downs, with multiple owners. Recently, the brand has been revived with veteran industry leader Patrik Hoffmann at its head. Re-launched at […]

Introducing – The Accessible and Retro-Styled Alpina Heritage Automatic Monochrome
Alpina Heritage Automatic Alpina Aug 30, 2024

Introducing – The Accessible and Retro-Styled Alpina Heritage Automatic

Alpina is adding to its small yet growing Heritage collection with two pieces inspired by Interwar period styling (1918 to 1939, although Alpina leans into the 1940s as well). The pair have different dials within the same case that adopt a retro yet more contemporary size for 2024. Overall, the new Heritage Automatics are clean, […]

Grand Seiko Celebrates a Big Spring Drive Anniversary with a Pair of Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Celebrates Aug 30, 2024

Grand Seiko Celebrates a Big Spring Drive Anniversary with a Pair of Limited Editions

How long would it take you to invent an entirely new kind of watch movement? Five years? Ten years? If your answer was 27 years, you’d be on the right track. That’s how long it took the Spring Drive movement to go from idea to reality at Seiko. Initially conceived of by Yoshikazu Akahane in the 1970s, the development of the Spring Drive movement grew out of efforts to solve problems endemic to early quartz movements, though the project would not bear fruit until Baselworld 1999 when the first trio of Spring Drive watches was released to the public (something Akahane would, tragically, not live to see). Five years later, Spring Drive would finally reach Grand Seiko with the introduction of the 9R series of movements in 2004. 20 years later, the 9R series of Spring Drive calibers remain a core pillar of the Grand Seiko catalog, and GS is ready to celebrate that anniversary with the introduction of two profoundly autumnal limited editions. Each of these limited releases is powered by a Grand Seiko 9R series movement and each is inspired by the fiery red tones found throughout the Hotaka mountain range come fall. First up, we have the SBGY035, driven by a hand-wound Caliber 9R31 Spring Drive movement. Similar in execution and design to the popular SBGY007 Omiwatari, this thin dress watch claims inspiration from the vibrant leaves that coat the landscape of Hotaka each fall. An ombré finish made up of deep red tones is paired with a textured dial, and is accented by sparin...

Geneva Watch Days 2024: Hot weather and even hotter watches Time+Tide
Aug 30, 2024

Geneva Watch Days 2024: Hot weather and even hotter watches

It’s hot here in Geneva. The heat is the number one topic of conversation around the Beau Rivage as members of the watch press sweat their way between some of the most exciting brands in the industry. But perhaps the most heat was found on stage this afternoon as our own Andrew McUtchen co-hosted a … ContinuedThe post Geneva Watch Days 2024: Hot weather and even hotter watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing – New Dials for the Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Monochrome
Arnold & Son Aug 30, 2024

Introducing – New Dials for the Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38

Arnold & Son’s obsession with the Moon has materialised in different models, revealing our neighbouring satellite in its most spectacular form. Starting with the Perpetual Moon of 2013 with its enormous moon, followed by the Double Hemisphere Perpetual with two large moons and culminating with the 2021 Luna Magna with one of the largest spherical […]

Unimatic’s Latest LE is a Modello Cinque Made in Collaboration with the Armoury Worn & Wound
Unimatic Aug 30, 2024

Unimatic’s Latest LE is a Modello Cinque Made in Collaboration with the Armoury

Considered one of the finest menswear retailers on the planet, The Armoury has been dressing men since its inception in 2010. Since then, it’s grown to become as much a store as a brand itself. Under the discerning eye of founder Mark Cho, every element of The Armoury is a considered approach to traditional, classic, and lasting style. It’s no wonder, then, that their latest release, in partnership with Italian brand UNIMATIC, would hold these same values. The UNIMATIC x The Armoury Modello Cinque U5S-TA ‘Blu Notte’ is a timepiece that balances classic design elements without ever veering into the fussy – while also being incredibly contemporary in its approach to creating a timepiece for today as well as tomorrow. Designed to be a daily wear watch, this watch has just enough design elements to keep the eye interested without veering into being ostentatious. For instance, the rich blue dial is a perfect neutral, while the concentric circles pressed into the dial give it a bit of depth. This is then offset against a cool grey seconds rail and dial trims, and all brought together with white hour and minute hands, filled with Super-LumiNova for visibility in a variety of conditions (like, say, cocktails in your best suit). The watch comes with a  ‘Blu Notte’ tapered quick-release two-piece TPU strap and a nylon strap is also included for more versatility.  Within the 36mm stainless steel case is an automatic caliber Sellita SW200-1b, promising approximately 41...

Frederique Constant And Alpina Introduce A Variety Of Models During Geneva Watch Days Fratello
Frederique Constant Aug 30, 2024

Frederique Constant And Alpina Introduce A Variety Of Models During Geneva Watch Days

Both Frederique Constant and Alpina grace us with multiple releases during Geneva Watch Days 2024. Alpina adds a skeletonized version of its Alpiner Extreme to the lineup and surprises us with classic silhouettes joining the Heritage collection. Frederique Constant focuses on the Classics line with a tourbillon and a moonphase model, both with spectacular dials. […] Visit Frederique Constant And Alpina Introduce A Variety Of Models During Geneva Watch Days to read the full article.

First Look – Girard-Perregaux Updates Its Delectable Tourbillon With Three Flying Bridges Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Updates Aug 30, 2024

First Look – Girard-Perregaux Updates Its Delectable Tourbillon With Three Flying Bridges

Inspired by a famous pocket watch made in 1889, Girard-Perregaux regularly plays around with its signature-shaped bridges. One of the manufacture’ most fascinating pieces that take notes from this early GP creation, is the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges. From every angle, it’s a highly fascinating piece to behold. The curved crystals, the swooping black […]

Breitling Debuts First In-House Perpetual Calendar Chronograph SJX Watches
Breitling Debuts First In-House Perpetual Aug 30, 2024

Breitling Debuts First In-House Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

Breitling marks its 140th anniversary with a new calibre, the B19. Based on its longstanding B01, the B19 adds a perpetual calendar on top to create the most complicated in-house calibre in the brand’s stable. The B19 is making its debut in three different models, all clad in 140th anniversary livery: the Premier B19 Datora 42, Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar, and Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar. Initial thoughts One of the most sophisticated chronograph constructions in the mid range of the price spectrum, the B01 gains a worthy upgrade with the perpetual calendar. Granted the additional complication adds substantial height to the case – all of the three models are well over 15 mm high – but that’s acceptable for a self-winding chronograph with perpetual calendar. Interestingly, the B01 base movement of the B19 has been upgraded over the standard version with some improvements (no doubt courtesy of Kenissi, which bought the rights to the B01 construction), though it’s uncertain if these will make their way into the plain B01. Though all three are identical mechanically, they look and feel different. The Super Chronomat is super chunky and the largest of the three, while the Navitimer and Datora are slightly more compact and definitely more retro in terms of style. The old-school, four-register calendar layout arguably suits the vintage-inspired style better. All three retail for US$59,000, which is par for the course for this double com...

First Look – The new Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30th Anniversario 916 Monochrome
Gerald Charles Aug 30, 2024

First Look – The new Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30th Anniversario 916

Gerald Charles, a brand founded by the legendary watch designer Gérald Genta in 2000, has made a convincing comeback under Federico Ziviani’s leadership. The revival began in 2020 with the reintroduction of a distinctive 2006 Genta design, the unique Maestro Anniversary case, paired with a moulded rubber strap. Several iterations of the Maestro have been […]

Deep-Diving Destro: Doxa Debuts The New Left-Hand-Drive Sub 300T Professional Aristera Fratello
Doxa Debuts Aug 30, 2024

Deep-Diving Destro: Doxa Debuts The New Left-Hand-Drive Sub 300T Professional Aristera

Doxa is always one of the brands we keep a close eye on when Geneva Watch Days rolls around. This year, the brand has not disappointed with two major pieces of news. The first is a new left-hand-drive Sub 300T Professional Aristera. The second is the collection-wide rollout of the “Sea Emerald” green colorway. The […] Visit Deep-Diving Destro: Doxa Debuts The New Left-Hand-Drive Sub 300T Professional Aristera to read the full article.

Vacheron Constantin Unveils the Métiers d’Art Chinese Zodiac “Snake” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Unveils Aug 30, 2024

Vacheron Constantin Unveils the Métiers d’Art Chinese Zodiac “Snake”

Having released Chinese Zodiac editions annually for the past 12 years, Vacheron Constantin presents the Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac “Year of the Snake”. The serpent is the sixth Chinese zodiac sign for the upcoming year that begins with the Chinese New Year on January 29, 2025. Available in pink gold or platinum, the new zodiac edition illustrates the brand’s metiers d’art expertise with hand-engraving and enamelling on a dial that depicts a cobra. Initial thoughts Vacheron Constantin has developed a niche with its Métiers d’Art offerings, some of which, like the Wind God and Thunder God pair of repeaters, are exceptional. The Zodiac series is more accessible than the repeaters, but still relies on Vacheron Constantin’s in-house calibre with a unique display that indicates the time and calendar in windows, leaving the dial free for artisanal decoration. The quality of work on the dial is high, although the snake is not a universally loved creature, unlike say the dragon, which will limit the appeal of this particular edition. The king of snakes The snake edition employs the same case as last zodiac models, which measures 40 mm in diameter and 12.72 mm in thickness. The movement also remains the same cal. 2460 G4 with a window-based display. Instead of traditional hands, the watch displays the time, date, and day of the week through four windows on the dial. The apertures at 11 and one o’clock indicate the hours and minutes, whereas tho...

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono Blue SJX Watches
Tudor Aug 30, 2024

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono Blue

Tudor’s latest release is the Black Bay Chrono Blue, a boutique-exclusive with a familiar “Panda” dial with snowflake hands, but now in “Tudor Blue”. Just like its pink dial, limited production counterpart, the new chronograph is equipped with a “5-link” bracelet, which is basically Tudor’s version of the Jubilee bracelet. Initial thoughts Tudor is a brand that combines appealing, functional design with historical basis – and an exceptional price-performance ratio. Though still excellent value, the Black Bay Chrono Blue is not revolutionary; the only novel element is the blue dial. However, it remains a strong option for anyone looking for affordable sports chronograph with a high-spec movement. I prefer the look of the original black-and-silver “Panda” dial, but I would lean towards the new variant simply because it is the only regular production model equipped with the “5-link” bracelet that pairs well with the design. Priced at US$5,675, the Black Bay Chrono Blue is a great value proposition. Its strongest feature is the COSC-certified MT5813, a calibre based on Breitling’s B01 but upgraded significantly by Tudor and likely the best chronograph movement at this price point. Tudor blue The stainless steel case is 41 mm in diameter and 14.4 mm in thickness. Water resistant to 200 m, the case features a screw-down crown engraved with the Tudor rose logo and screw-down pushers. The case is satin-brushed on its tops, and mirror-polished on its sid...

Hands-On With The Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière - A Titanium Dive Watch That Takes Lume To The Next Level Fratello
Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière - Aug 30, 2024

Hands-On With The Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière - A Titanium Dive Watch That Takes Lume To The Next Level

Christopher Ward might have another hit on its hands. The brand’s new C60 Trident Lumière is an impressive titanium dive watch with a dial that cranks legibility in the dark up to 11. And that’s not the entire story. This new addition to the Christopher Ward collection perfectly blends specs with looks, which is why […] Visit Hands-On With The Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière - A Titanium Dive Watch That Takes Lume To The Next Level to read the full article.