Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: In Conversation With Max Büsser Of MB&F;
Büsser reflects on his time at Jaeger-LeCoultre, (almost) 20 years of MB&F;, and the recent investment by Chanel.
Hodinkee
Büsser reflects on his time at Jaeger-LeCoultre, (almost) 20 years of MB&F;, and the recent investment by Chanel.
Worn & Wound
The last few years have been good for enthusiasts of classically designed, complicated watches. Historically the purview of the exorbitantly wealthy, the complicated dress watch has become increasingly democratized in recent years, thanks in no small part to brands like Kurono Tokyo. That impactful role was rewarded with ardent fervor with new releases selling out near-instantaneously. Recently, secondhand availability and the introduction of various anti-flipping techniques have made getting your hand on one of Hajime Asaoka’s affordable creations far easier. But that sense of ease may well renege with the brand’s latest offering, the Kurono Special Projects Réserve de Marche ‘Sensu N.O.S.’ The signature feature of the new Réserve de Marche (and the complication from which it borrows its name) is the power reserve indicator found between the nine and ten o’clock positions, a first for Kurono Tokyo. This function is made possible thanks to the new old stock Cal. 9134 movements from Citizen. True to form for Kurono Tokyo, that movement has been reworked here; not only to meet Kurono Tokyo’s internal timekeeping standards, but also to remove the movement’s date function, though the 24-hour secondary hour display at six o’clock remains. What results is a classically beautiful, and undeniably well-executed take on a classic complication. Of course, given the inherent limitations created by the use of NOS movements, the Sensu N.O.S. will be “very limited,”...
Worn & Wound
The post Introducing Alpina to the WindUp Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Andrew paid a visit to the Wolf manufacture, where he met up with CEO Simon Wolf to discover some hidden treasures.The post Wolf CEO Simon Philip Wolf V shares his personal watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
On display through December 2024.
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Hodinkee
The original Oyster Perpetual was one of the first watches collectors fell for; today, the Bubbleback represents an era of Rolex that still has a charm all its own.
Fratello
Jacques Bianchi has quickly found a place in the hearts of watch enthusiasts who love the brand’s history and timepieces. With numerous notable releases, the brand has stood out more than once in the past three years. The first ones that come to mind are, without a doubt, the models with illustrations on the dial. […] Visit Hands-On With The New Jacques Bianchi JB200 Maxi Dial to read the full article.
Deployant
HYT launches their new S1 - "S" for Sport with a pre-launch release of a special Japan Limited Edition in titanium. Only 8 pieces.
Monochrome
Bell & Ross made a name for itself with its aeroplane cockpit instrument-inspired collections, but the brand has never confined itself solely to military aesthetics. In 2019, the Paris-based brand introduced the BR-05 collection, described as its urban range – a stylish series designed for those roaming the concrete jungle. While true to the brand´s […]
Time+Tide
It may not feel that long ago for many of us, but some of the watches made in the '90s had a big impact on the scene today.The post Nineties nostalgia – 10 of the greatest watches from the 1990s appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Founded in 1934, Airain was well known for its Type 20 flyback chronographs in the mid-20th century, supplying the French military along with brands like Breguet and Mathey Tissot. These chronographs could be instantly reset to zero by pressing the 4 o’clock pusher via the flyback function and had specific requirements like a bidirectional 12-hour […]
Fratello
It might still be a niche brand in numbers and worldwide sales, but Kurono has built a strong following for its colorful wares. Hajime Asaoka’s accessible brand seems to have come at the right time for the small-case trend, but for Sensei, this is nothing new. But by introducing the Kurono Tokyo Réserve de Marche […] Visit Introducing: The Kurono Tokyo Réserve De Marche “Sensu N.O.S.” - A Bold Guilloché Move to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin has enlisted French designer Ora ïto to take a '50s-inspired design and give it a '70s twist for its 20th birthday.The post Vacheron Constantin teams up with French designer Ora ïto for a limited edition Patrimony appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin celebrates the 20th anniversary of its Patrimony collection with a special edition produced in collaboration with French designer Ito Morabito, more widely known as Ora ïto. The understated soul of the Patrimony is inspired by Vacheron’s slim men’s dress watches of the 1950s, a formula applied across the board to all Patrimony references. […]
Revolution
Fratello
Let me put it this way: if you want a crown on the dial, looking at a shield instead doesn’t cut it. Luckily, the “Age of Alternatives” seems to have ended. Yes, some references still play hard to get, but more and more watches that were in high demand over the last few post-COVID years […] Visit No Alternatives: Why Buying A Watch In Place Of Another Is A Fallacy to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Do you consider yourself a collector? For years GaryG resisted the label, however, he slowly tipped over into having, for lack of a better term, a watch collection. Here Gary shares what collecting means to him.
SJX Watches
A clever play on words, the Slim d’Hermès Flagship features a hand-painted dial depicting the flagship Hermès store in Paris as a sailing ship. Executed with a gold appliqué and miniature painting on an aventurine-glass dial, the “flagship” transforms the famous store at 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré into the hull of the ship with sails billowing above it. As is often the case with Hermès’ métiers d’art watches, the dial is based on a scarf bearing the same motif designed by Dimitri Rybaltchenko, an artist based in Paris who’s a longtime designer for Hermès. Initial thoughts Both the motif and presentation of the Flagship encapsulate what Hermès does well. It’s typical Hermès – whimsical, elegant, and finely executed. And it’s not just about aesthetics: the depth and detail of the dial decoration is outstanding. Beyond the dial decor, the Flagship also incorporates subtle touches that reflect an attention to detail, like the spinning star disc on the dial and the slightly retro yellow gold case. Slim and witty An aventurine glass base serves as the base for the dial decoration. The store building is a solid gold appliqué that’s hand-engraved with a burin to fill out the fine details of the structure. It’s then painted by hand to add colour to the windows and “Hermes” logo. The rest of the dial, including the sails and starry sky, is done in miniature painting, specifically acrylic paint applied by hand and then baked in an oven to set...
SJX Watches
Ahead of the international watch auction season that kicks off in a few weeks, Boston-based RR Auction has opened an online auction that will interest those hunting especially rare, space-flown watches. Simply titled Space, the auction is focused primarily on space memorabilia, and includes three space-flown wristwatches that warrant a closer look, including a French astronaut’s Speedmaster that spent almost six hours in space. Known for its sales focused on historical memorabilia, particularly those relating to space exploration, RR Auction has notched up several notable watch sales in the past, including a Bulova chronograph worn on the Moon that sold for almost US$1.6 million in 2015. We round up highlights from the upcoming sale, which closes October 24, 2024. The catalogue and bidding are available online. Lot 6286 – Rolex GMT-Master II flown on Apollo 14 by Edgar Mitchell First up is the Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 1675 worn by astronaut Edgar Mitchell on the Apollo 14 mission that landed on the Moon in February 1971. Enhancing its appeal, the watch has tangible provenance: actually be seen in archival footage recording prior to take-off and in onboard footage taken during the mission. While the GMT-Master II was not uncommon among astronauts of that period – it was conceived as a watch for pilots after all – few actually made it to space. This example is only the second lunar Rolex to be sold publicly, after Ron Evans’s GMT-Master II worn on Apollo 17, whic...
Fratello
Louis Vuitton isn’t exactly a newcomer to the luxury watch market. However, in the past two years, we’ve seen a marked change in the fashion house and how it approaches watches. In 2023, the Tambour reappeared in its most competitive form yet, bearing an integrated bracelet. Earlier this year, a slightly dressier Escale rejoined the […] Visit Daily Drivers: The Louis Vuitton Tambour And Escale Models to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Whenever and wherever a bunch of enthusiasts get together to talk about their passion, it’s sure to be a good time. But the Windup Watch Fair is different. Windup always feels like a seminal moment for our little corner of the watch world-which, let’s face it, isn’t so little anymore. Enthusiasts have become an absolutely critical audience to watch brands from around the world. It’s the enthusiasts who adopt early. It’s the enthusiasts who spread the news. It’s the enthusiasts who set the trends. And the over 130 brands who are flocking to Windup NYC in just a couple of weeks know it. Thank YOU for making Windup what it is today-the largest and most important watch enthusiast event in the world, taking place at: Center415 on 5th Avenue between 37th and 38th Streets (415 Fifth Ave) Friday, October 18: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, October 19: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, October 20: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public No registration necessary This year, Windup NYC will not disappoint. First and foremost, Windup NYC has a new home. Nestled right on iconic 5th Ave in Manhattan, between 37th and 38th, is Center415. It’s a massive multi-floor venue that, for three days, will be the home to over 130 watch and EDC brands from 16 different countries around the world. This event is anchored by five Lead Sponsors who are planning some great product stories to tell, namely: Bulova, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Oris, and Shinola. Here’s a quick rundown of what to watch for at ...
Worn & Wound
As watch enthusiasts, we all have our weaknesses. Some feature or design quirk that makes very little sense in practical terms, but nonetheless appeals to us in ways we can barely even describe. Something that falls into this category for me is the “useless” complication. A complication that doesn’t really have much of a functional purpose at all, but is just sort of there was a watchmaking flex. There are all kinds of strange time telling displays that fall into this category, plus your deeply anachronistic complications like integrated barometers, scales that tell you the age of the moon, or perhaps even a secular perpetual calendar that no one alive today will be able to see in action. Then there are retrograde displays, which while not exactly “useless” certainly tend to be, well, maybe unnecessary is a better word. But the vaguely violent snapping back of a hand when it reaches the end of the display has a real pull. If that sort of mechanical violence is up your alley, Moser’s latest is a watch you should investigate. The Pioneer Retrograde Seconds in Midnight Blue takes your normal, everyday Pioneer and juices it significantly with a retrograde seconds display at the bottom of the dial that snaps back every thirty seconds. That makes for a dial with a lot of action, with a second hand moving twice as fast as it normally would, interrupted every thirty seconds with an action that, to witness it, you’d surely think would cause some manner of mechanical...
Time+Tide
Now that Milano Watch Week has concluded, find out what it was like at what has to have been the most stylish watch fair ever.The post An inside look at Milano Watch Week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Alright, I must admit that we’re a bit late to the party when it comes to reviewing the Christopher Ward Bel Canto… A fault confessed is half-redressed. But we’ll do better, as it’s time for us to have a closer look at this watch. The Bel Canto has been under MONOCHROME’s radar ever since its […]
Worn & Wound
Clement Meynier, an engineer, was fascinated by the automotive and horological world, which led him to enroll in a watchmaking training center in Geneva. Six years ago, he established his watch brand called Depancel, a name derived from a combination of three French car manufacturers: Delage, Panhard, and Facel. He aims to create watches that embody the same philosophies and creative freedom as those represented by these historic brands. Since its beginning, they have also established strong connections with the motorsport world. This includes participating in events such as the Rétromobile Paris and Epoqu’Auto Lyon and serving as the Official Sponsor of GPX Racing. Most recently, the company has partnered with the Masters Historic Championship at Silverstone in the UK. New for 2024, Depancel is updating its Allure watch with a sleeker and more refined 36mm stainless steel case. The lug-to-lug tip measurement is only 42.8mm, and the overall thickness is just 10.95mm, making it suitable for any gender or wrist size. The cushion case design of this watch is inspired by the 1970s, and it is made almost entirely of brushed steel, with the bezel being the only part that is mirror-polished. The short angular lugs and the shape of the end links give the appearance of an integrated bracelet, even though it is not. This design allows the watch to resemble an integrated bracelet sports watch, which is currently very popular while allowing you to pair it with your preferred straps...
Hodinkee
In a candid interview, Mr. Naito discusses a wide range of ideas, from pricing and fewer limited editions to better bracelets and a possible reevaluation of the brand's "nature-inspired" dials.
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