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Business News: Phillips Perpetual Opens in Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref 6300G-010 Feb 29, 2024

Business News: Phillips Perpetual Opens in Hong Kong

Five years since opening its first concept store in London, Phillips has now officially launched Phillips Perpetual in Hong Kong. Conceived as a conduit for collectors to buy and sell watches between the biannual auction seasons, Perpetual is located in Pedder Building, a 1920s Beaux-Arts style located in the Central business district. Established in 2019 with a showroom in London and led by James Marks, Perpetual is the private-sale arm of the auction house that allows clients to buy and sell anytime, instead of during the traditional May and November auctions. Perpetual operates physical stores in London and Hong Kong, along with a seasonal pop-up in Gstaad, as well as its e-commerce platform. The Hong Kong outpost strengthens its foothold in Asia, home to many of Phillips’ important clients. Something for everyone As with its London store, the Hong Kong boutique’s offerings will continually evolve. At opening, however, Perpetual in Hong Kong showcases diversity in terms of brands, complications, and styles. The flagship offering is a Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300G-010, the brand’s most complicated wristwatch boasting a grande and petite sonnerie, alarm, date repeater, second time zone, and an instantaneous perpetual calendar. Another highlight is the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon “Homage to F.A. Lange” in Honey Gold launched in 2010 to mark the 165th birthday of its founder. Setting it apart from the earlier Lange 1 Tourbillon is a larger a...

First Look – The Handsome Blancpain Villeret Perpetual Calendar Goes Green Monochrome
Blancpain Villeret Perpetual Calendar Goes Feb 29, 2024

First Look – The Handsome Blancpain Villeret Perpetual Calendar Goes Green

Today, 29 February 2024, is a pretty special day for calendar watches… and specifically perpetual calendar timepieces. To mark the leap year, Blancpain is releasing a new version of its Villeret Quantième Perpétuel – or Villeret Perpetual Calendar – an elegant and functional available already in steel, red gold or a limited edition in platinum. […]

Fratello Talks: Horological Hidden Gems Under €5K Fratello
Feb 29, 2024

Fratello Talks: Horological Hidden Gems Under €5K

Are rising watch prices getting you down? Well, we’ve got good news for you. In this week’s episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho, Timo, and RJ take a look at some horological hidden gems under €5K. These are watches you can buy either new or pre-owned that offer something truly interesting for the price. If you […] Visit Fratello Talks: Horological Hidden Gems Under €5K to read the full article.

Exploring WatchTok with Ben Cook, Creator of Ben’s Watches Worn & Wound
Feb 28, 2024

Exploring WatchTok with Ben Cook, Creator of Ben’s Watches

More than ever, being engaged in the watch community on social media means logging hours on TikTok. For years, the watch world has been building an impressive social infrastructure on Instagram, with collectors, brands, and dealers of all kinds finding a home on what is inarguably a platform that has reached maturity (even if not all of its users have). TikTok, by comparison, is a toddler, and to some of us who are dyed in the wool IG users, it’s every bit as inscrutable. But there’s no denying that the watch community, particularly new and younger watch collectors, are finding their way through the hobby on TikTok in much the same way that an older generation was educated on Instagram.  Something that the two platforms have in common is that both are personality driven, and if you let the algorithm on each app do its thing, eventually you’re going to come across creators who you personally identify with and gravitate towards. Ben Cook, a 26 year old New York City based TikTok and Instagram creator has been growing his audience for nearly two years and in a relatively short period of time has already established a niche as an authentic voice and a supporter of affordable and approachable watches.  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Ben’s Watches (@benswatches) “I’m an entrepreneur at the end of the day,” Ben told me in a recent interview. He started making watch focused TikTok content in May of 2022 at the suggestion of coworkers, and the accou...

First Look – The Girard-Perregaux Free Bridge Meteorite Adds a Cosmic Dimension to the Cutting-Edge Series Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Free Bridge Meteorite Adds Feb 28, 2024

First Look – The Girard-Perregaux Free Bridge Meteorite Adds a Cosmic Dimension to the Cutting-Edge Series

With the addition of the Free Bridge models to the Bridges family in 2020, Girard-Perregaux articulated its vision, stating that “with these models, our master watchmakers have reimagined the company’s famous Bridges, first seen in the 1860s“. The goal was to create a seamless connection between tradition and modernity, tradition being the prominent movement bridges […]

Hands-On: the UBIQ DUAL Series 01 Worn & Wound
Feb 28, 2024

Hands-On: the UBIQ DUAL Series 01

Making judgments off photos alone is a necessity in the world of microbrands, a subset of watches often sold exclusively online. Unless you are lucky enough to attend an event such as Windup Watch Fair, purchasing a microbrand usually requires some educated guessing based on pictures and dimensions, and then praying you like the watch once it arrives at your doorstep, long after your money has left your bank account.  Forming opinions without seeing a watch in the metal as I had many times before, I made up my mind weeks ago that the DUAL Series 01 from UBIQ was a watch I would love to own. With an impressive 200 meters of water resistance and a sapphire crystal, it had the specs enthusiasts such as myself want. Featuring a 39mm diameter and 47mm lug to lug case, I knew it would be comfortable. And, drawn in by the photos of captivatingly colorful dials and bezels, I was confident it would be a playful addition to my collection of mostly bland dive watches. After spending some time with the DUAL Series 01, I can confirm it is indeed a well-built, vibrant tool watch prepared to add spice to any collection. However, I am also walking away with a reminder that pictures alone fail to capture the entire story. $649 Hands-On: the UBIQ DUAL Series 01 Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9015 Dial Various Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Rubber or bracelet Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 39 x 47mm Thickness 11.5mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $649 Maybe i...

Three Low Profile Watches for Travelers Worn & Wound
Feb 28, 2024

Three Low Profile Watches for Travelers

As spring and summer approach, no doubt many of you (and certainly we) have aspirations to travel more – or have already laid plans. Of course, one of the joys of watch collecting and enthusiasm is being able to travel and forge new memories with our watches. The ideal travel watch is arguably one that doesn’t skimp on any functionality but also doesn’t shout too loudly. Even beyond watch theft, we want traveling to be about the experiences and people and not only about the watches. To that end, this edition of the Windup Watch Shop Chronicle aims to highlight watches that would make solid travel companions thanks to their low-key profiles and relatively affordable price tags. Regardless of which direction you take, there’s adventure to be had ahead. As spring and summer approach, no doubt many of you (and certainly we) have aspirations to travel more – or have already laid plans. Of course, one of the joys of watch collecting and enthusiasm is being able to travel and forge new memories with our watches. The ideal travel watch is arguably one that doesn’t skimp on any functionality but also doesn’t shout too loudly. Even beyond watch theft, we want traveling to be about the experiences and people and not only about the watches. To that end, this edition of the Windup Watch Shop Chronicle aims to highlight watches that would make solid travel companions thanks to their low-key profiles and relatively affordable price tags. Regardless of which direction you ta...

Interview – Laurent Dordet, CEO of Hermès Horloger, Talks about the Impressive Growth of a Discreet Giant of the Industry Monochrome
Hermes Feb 28, 2024

Interview – Laurent Dordet, CEO of Hermès Horloger, Talks about the Impressive Growth of a Discreet Giant of the Industry

Hermès, a French powerhouse of everything luxury that is still mostly owned by the direct descendants of the founder (the Hermès dynasty and the Dumas family), is in a class of its own. The same goes when it comes to the Group’s watch division, Hermès Horloger. A discreet giant of the watch industry, Hermès has […]

Watch Auctions And Temptation: A Cautionary Tale Fratello
Feb 28, 2024

Watch Auctions And Temptation: A Cautionary Tale

As hunter-gatherers by nature, we humans have always liked collecting. And when it comes to collecting, one attribute has always stood out as desirable - rarity. When something is rare, it’s exclusive by definition. Not many can possess a rare item. This rarity and desirability make such items valuable. Unfortunately, since greed is also a […] Visit Watch Auctions And Temptation: A Cautionary Tale to read the full article.

Exploring Evergreens: The Omega Seamaster 120 Ref. 168.1501 Fratello
Omega Seamaster 120 Ref 168.1501 Feb 28, 2024

Exploring Evergreens: The Omega Seamaster 120 Ref. 168.1501

In this installment of Exploring Evergreens, I’ll take a look at the Omega Seamaster 120 ref. 168.1501. This was a mainstream model in Omega’s catalog for nearly a decade during the 1990s. Today, however, it has been all but forgotten. It’s a clean design that has stood the test of time, and it ultimately paved […] Visit Exploring Evergreens: The Omega Seamaster 120 Ref. 168.1501 to read the full article.

A Minimalist, All-Gold Cartier Tank LC for Watches of Switzerland SJX Watches
Cartier Tank LC Feb 28, 2024

A Minimalist, All-Gold Cartier Tank LC for Watches of Switzerland

To mark the 100th anniversary of the biggest retailer in the United Kingdom, Cartier is introducing the Tank Louis Cartier Watches of Switzerland 100th Anniversary. Clad entirely in gold, the 100-piece limited edition features the classic Tank LC case matched with a minimalist dial featuring a sunburst brushing and a pair of mirrored Roman numerals along with blued steel sword hands, while the movement is mechanical, specifically, hand wind. Initial Thoughts The Tank LC is an undoubtedly a classic dress watch, perhaps even iconic, but not all Tank LCs are created equal. While all share the same case, the dials vary substantially. The Watches of Switzerland (WOS) edition stands out, even amongst the numerous recent iterations of the model. Here the dial manages to be both minimalist and extravagant because it has barely anything markings yet is entirely in gold, with the reflective numerals adding extra shine. Because this is identical to the standard model aside from the dial, some might find it too small at 25.5 mm wide. It does, however, make an excellent black tie watch, particularly in this all-gold guise. The WOS edition costs £12,700 including taxes, which is about the same as the equivalent standard version of the Tank LC. In fact, it’s £100 less expensive than the multi-tone dial. This certainly makes this a compelling proposition since it is looks very much like a classic Cartier yet different from the other versions of the model. Just gold The WOS edition is ...

Introducing – Ralph Lauren Introduces a New 42mm Case Size into its Rugged Safari Collection Monochrome
Feb 28, 2024

Introducing – Ralph Lauren Introduces a New 42mm Case Size into its Rugged Safari Collection

American designer Ralph Lauren has forged an emporium on his vision of laid-back sophistication carefully choreographed in settings designed to evoke a certain lifestyle. Ralph Lauren’s preppie collegiate apparel incarnated by the Polo shirt of 1971, for instance, was equated with the game of polo, and his Safari apparel collection of 1984 harnessed the designer’s […]

New Dials For The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar And MB&F; LM Perpetual EVO Fratello
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Feb 28, 2024

New Dials For The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar And MB&F; LM Perpetual EVO

Sometimes, adding a dial color can shine a new light on a watch. Both H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F; have done just that. That’s why we’ll unpack both releases in one article. The first is the much-praised H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar, and the second is the stunning MB&F; LM Perpetual Evo. […] Visit New Dials For The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar And MB&F; LM Perpetual EVO to read the full article.

Insight: Perfecting the Perpetual from Quartz Crisis till Today SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet ref 5516 which was Feb 27, 2024

Insight: Perfecting the Perpetual from Quartz Crisis till Today

As we approach the leap day of February 29, the unofficial day of commemoration for perpetual calendar owners, it’s worth considering the technical advances in perpetual calendar movements of the past 20 years. The perpetual calendar is, and has always been, a staple of haute horlogerie. But for most of its history, the technology remained largely stagnant. It wasn’t until the beginning of the modern era, in the 1980s when Swiss watchmaking was regrouping after the Quartz Crisis, that a new generation of watchmakers revisited this complication in earnest. In particular, they sought to address fundamental weaknesses in the way traditional perpetual calendar designs switch from one date to the next. The quintessential perpetual calendar layout, here in the first serially-produced perpetual calendar wristwatch with a leap year indicator, the Audemars Piguet ref. 5516, which was produced in the late 1950s One of the more recent – and most notable – efforts at reimagining the complication came from Stephen McDonnell, who developed the MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual. According to Mr McDonnell, the traditional approach to the perpetual calendar was a flawed premise. “For decades in the Swiss watch industry, and even until the present day, it has been accepted and expected that [perpetual calendar] watches would often be damaged by owners while trying to correct them,” explains Mr McDonnell, “This was seen simply as an unavoidable factor of [perpetual calendar] owner...

Louis Erard Introduces New Entries in their Excellence Petite Seconde Collection Featuring Elaborate Guilloche Dials Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Introduces New Entries Feb 27, 2024

Louis Erard Introduces New Entries in their Excellence Petite Seconde Collection Featuring Elaborate Guilloche Dials

The latest release from Louis Erard expands their Excellence Petite Seconde range, and includes another release in that collection’s 39mm case size. Louis Erard has really become a collector favorite over the last few years with their many collaborative limited editions and (relatively) affordable ways to buy into design codes that traditionally represent true high luxury watchmaking, and they’ve done it mostly on the back of a 42mm case. It’s always notable when we see them release something new in their easier to wear 39mm case size, and with the Excellence Petite Seconde Guilloche (in two sizes) we also have a watch that’s really playing into that high luxury aesthetic with an unusually complex dial. These watches are really a celebration of guilloche itself, and seek to present the decorative technique in a more classical way than something like the brand’s much more contemporary guilloche LE from a few years ago. The larger 42mm watch features gray and black tones, while the smaller 39mm watch features a rich blue and gray for contrast.  The dials are made in four parts, and highlight contrasting guilloche patterns. The central section has a traditional wave-like pattern that is meant to cast light directly from the dial’s center. An outer section, where you’ll find the hour track, features what’s known as a “panier” motif, which has the appearance of slightly staggered scales. This pattern is repeated in the small seconds subdial at the 6:00 posi...