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Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Opera Automata SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Opera Automata Louis Mar 1, 2024

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Opera Automata

Louis Vuitton has received much press recently for the Tambour, a restrained, sleek watch with just three hands. But the brand also makes watches at the other end of the spectrum, as personified by the Tambour Opera Automata. A large watch with an even larger presence, the Opera Automata is an extremely complicated watch with a kinetic dial – that is also enamelled by Anita Porchet. The pusher at two o’clock activates the automata on the dial, which also serves to indicate the time with jumping hours and retrograde minutes. Although mechanically identical to the earlier Carpe Diem automata watch, the Opera Automata is more striking thanks to its vivid colours, and also more relatable for East Asians given the theme. Initial thoughts The Tambour Opera Automata is a statement watch that is hard to miss by virtue of its size and colour. Although the extravagant style is typical of Louis Vuitton, the details of the enamel dial are particularly fine. Moreover, the motif is more appealing to me personally compared to its predecessor, the Carpe Diem from three years ago. I was impressed by the Carpe Diem, both for its complexity and execution, particularly the delicate enamelled snake, but the skull-and-snake motif was too much for me. It was also less relatable, since it is a vanitas, a familiar concept in Western culture. With a Chinese opera motif, the Opera Automata, on the other hand, is more relatable. The Opera Automata is impressively decorated on the front – unsurp...

The IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41, a Mercedes F1 collab, is the brand’s first proper racing chronograph Time+Tide
IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph Mar 1, 2024

The IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41, a Mercedes F1 collab, is the brand’s first proper racing chronograph

We get our hands on this motorsports-oriented chronograph ahead of the 2024 Formula 1 World Championship kicking off this weekend.The post The IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41, a Mercedes F1 collab, is the brand’s first proper racing chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Roger W. Smith Is Auctioning Off A Unique Series 1 For The British Watchmakers’ Day Fratello
Roger W. Smith Mar 1, 2024

Roger W. Smith Is Auctioning Off A Unique Series 1 For The British Watchmakers’ Day

March 9th is a big day for the now-well-known resurgence of British watchmaking. This particular date is set aside for a new event, the British Watchmakers’ Day, in London. Thanks to Roger W. Smith, this year will be even more exciting thanks to a sealed auction, with the excitement starting at a £297,500 reserve price […] Visit Roger W. Smith Is Auctioning Off A Unique Series 1 For The British Watchmakers’ Day to read the full article.

First Look – The new Certina DS Action GMT is an Accessible Flyer GMT (incl. Video) Monochrome
Certina Mar 1, 2024

First Look – The new Certina DS Action GMT is an Accessible Flyer GMT (incl. Video)

The accessible automatic GMT Sports watch is becoming one of the most competitive categories of the industry, with heavy players like Seiko (even in the affordable 5 Sports range), Citizen, and Mido offering compelling watches, and newcomers and micro-brands such as Lorca or Jack Mason also hitting hard. New to this field is Certina, unveiling […]

Hands-On: Cartier Tank Must With The Photovoltaic SolarBeat Movement Fratello
Cartier Tank Must Mar 1, 2024

Hands-On: Cartier Tank Must With The Photovoltaic SolarBeat Movement

Cartier introduced three sizes of new Tank Must models in 2021. The Tank Must debuted in the 1970s, but we hadn’t seen any new models for years. Now it’s available again in “extra-large,” “large,” and “small” versions. The extra-large model features a self-winding 1847 MC caliber with central seconds and date, while the large and […] Visit Hands-On: Cartier Tank Must With The Photovoltaic SolarBeat Movement to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Certina DS Action GMT Powermatic 80 - An Affordable GMT That Fans Will Love Fratello
Certina DS Action GMT Powermatic Feb 29, 2024

Hands-On With The New Certina DS Action GMT Powermatic 80 - An Affordable GMT That Fans Will Love

Unless you have lived under a rock for the past three years, you know that the watch market has seen a huge influx of affordable GMT watches from various brands. The newest addition to the long line of releases is this Certina DS Action GMT Powermatic 80. While it is not the first DS Action […] Visit Hands-On With The New Certina DS Action GMT Powermatic 80 - An Affordable GMT That Fans Will Love to read the full article.

Perpetually Yours: A Leap Day Guide to our Favorite QPs Worn & Wound
Feb 29, 2024

Perpetually Yours: A Leap Day Guide to our Favorite QPs

Once again, Leap Day is upon us. This is an important day for watch lovers, particularly those of us who admire complicated watches, as it gives those lucky enough to own a perpetual calendar an opportunity to observe them doing the thing they’re meant to do. Unlike the vast majority of watches with any kind of calendar complication, a perpetual calendar has already identified 2024 as a leap year, and will summarily display the first day of March without the need to advance the date. This, of course, is quite a mechanical feat, and one that only comes every four years, so it’s absolutely worth celebrating an event that is as rare as the Summer Olympics, a United States presidential election, and a new Bad Boys movie, all of which, for better or worse, we’re getting this year.  This Leap Day, we celebrate the perpetual calendar by selecting a few of our absolute favorites. Our selections below represent many different approaches to the perpetual, from rigorously simple to intentionally complex, formal to sporty, and many places in between. The perpetual calendar might not be the most accessible of complications, but we can still appreciate them, particularly when they’re having their big, quadrennial moment.  Zach Weiss  I feel very strongly about perpetual calendars. I fawn over them. I look them up late at night when I can’t sleep and drool about the possibilities of knowing not just the day, or the date, or the month, or the phase of the moon, but knowing al...

[VIDEO] Our 2024 New Release Season Predictions Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Feb 29, 2024

[VIDEO] Our 2024 New Release Season Predictions

New release season in the watch industry is really heating up, so we thought we’d get a sense of what our team is expecting as we head into Watches & Wonders, and a spring that’s sure to be filled with high profile new watches from brands of all sizes. Maybe it’s a bit of wishcasting, but Zach Weiss and Zach Kazan have similar ideas around the industry getting weird, or at least moving away from some of the predictably crowd pleasing watches we’ve seen dominate the space over the last several years. An entire generation of collectors is maturing, and it follows that they’ll be looking for new watches outside what we’d consider the run of the mill. Is this the year brands respond with accessible craft, new complications, and raw creativity? We hope so!  Are stone dials coming back? This onyx dial from Fears and Collective just dropped last week. Meanwhile, Kyle Snarr is convinced that this is the year of the pink watch. He might be onto something – we’ve already seen a high profile pink dial from Grand Seiko, and we swear this was shot before that release was made known to us. We’ll also be tracking Nina Flanders’s prediction that brands will turn to uncommon materials to garner attention in 2024. Recent releases from Girard-Perregaux and Fears would seem to indicate she might be on the right track.  We want to know what you think: let us know in the comments what you’re expecting brands to headline with as new release season gains steam.  The post ...

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date blends old-school complications with new-school sports watch vibes Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Feb 29, 2024

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date blends old-school complications with new-school sports watch vibes

This elevated take on the Overseas is the first retrograde display in a sports watch for this storied Swiss brand.The post The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date blends old-school complications with new-school sports watch vibes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Imperial Follows Up the Success of their Royalguard 200 with the Oceanguard GMT, Another Colorful Homage to the Eberhard Scafograf Worn & Wound
Seiko s affordable caller GMT Feb 29, 2024

Imperial Follows Up the Success of their Royalguard 200 with the Oceanguard GMT, Another Colorful Homage to the Eberhard Scafograf

Everyone says that the sophomore album is what makes or breaks an artist. Well, how about a watch company? In this instance we have Imperial Watch Co.’s follow-up to their successful Royalguard 200, the Oceanguard GMT. The Oceanguard GMT builds off the Royalguard and takes advantage of Seiko’s affordable caller GMT movement, the Seiko NH34. Like the original Royalguard, the Oceanguard continues to pay homage to the Eberhard Scafograf 300, keeping a similar design language from its predecessor with some notable departures.  It’s no secret that GMTs are popular among watch enthusiasts, so it seems like a natural progression that Imperial has added this complication to their new Oceanguard, while maintaining the same case proportions as the Royalguard. With a case diameter of 38mm, thickness of 14mm, lug-to-lug of 47mm, and lug width of 20mm, the watch will be just as wearable even with the added functionality. The Oceanguard release will contain four new models: three with black dials, and one with a white dial. There will be two models with a “Pepsi” bezel, one with a black dial and one with the only white dial in the bunch. The two remaining black dial models will have alternatively colored bezels: one with a coral and turquoise bezel, and the other with a fuchsia and cyan bezel. Each of the individual models will be limited to 25 pieces. Whether you like traditional looks or new funky color-combos, Imperial has you covered.  The case and dial are the same as t...

#TBT An Exciting Dial-Originality Investigation With A Gallet Navigator Telemeter Fratello
Feb 29, 2024

#TBT An Exciting Dial-Originality Investigation With A Gallet Navigator Telemeter

Until recently, I had never changed my opinion about the originality of a watch three times in the same week. But that happened when the intriguing Gallet Navigator Telemeter crossed my path. Two other great collectors joined me on my journey of exploration, and they were equally puzzled. The buying experience of this rare Gallet […] Visit #TBT An Exciting Dial-Originality Investigation With A Gallet Navigator Telemeter to read the full article.

Industry News – Rolex Breaks the CHF 10 billion Barrier, And The Top 50 Swiss Watch Companies of 2023 According to Morgan Stanley Monochrome
Rolex Breaks Feb 29, 2024

Industry News – Rolex Breaks the CHF 10 billion Barrier, And The Top 50 Swiss Watch Companies of 2023 According to Morgan Stanley

While the growth for the luxury industry as a whole is expected to slow following months/years of sustained development, with macroeconomic and geopolitical headwinds and demand uncertainties in the US, Europe and China, the Swiss watch industry ended up 2023 as yet another record year, with exports up 7.6% compared to 2022, reaching their highest […]

First Look – Nonstop Red and Endless Blue, The New Colours of The Nomos Club Campus Monochrome
Nomos Club Campus Nomos’ watches Feb 29, 2024

First Look – Nonstop Red and Endless Blue, The New Colours of The Nomos Club Campus

Nomos’ watches are often lauded for their unmistakable Bauhaus influences, and with good reason. “Less is more” is a famous slogan, but also a significant part of our modern understanding of colour is rooted in Bauhaus colour theory. Nomos appears to have embraced its colour studies over the years, consistently presenting watch dials in captivating […]

Nomos Gets Ready For A Colorful Spring - Introducing The Club Campus In Nonstop Red And Endless Blue Fratello
Nomos Gets Ready Feb 29, 2024

Nomos Gets Ready For A Colorful Spring - Introducing The Club Campus In Nonstop Red And Endless Blue

Even without mentioning the name, if I tell you these watches have an all-polished 36 or 38.5mm case, Roman and Arabic numerals, a hand-wound movement, and colorful dials with a contrasting sub-seconds hand, you’ll probably already know what watches I’m talking about. The Nomos Club Campus has become quite an icon for the young Saxon […] Visit Nomos Gets Ready For A Colorful Spring - Introducing The Club Campus In Nonstop Red And Endless Blue to read the full article.

Business News: Phillips Perpetual Opens in Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref 6300G-010 Feb 29, 2024

Business News: Phillips Perpetual Opens in Hong Kong

Five years since opening its first concept store in London, Phillips has now officially launched Phillips Perpetual in Hong Kong. Conceived as a conduit for collectors to buy and sell watches between the biannual auction seasons, Perpetual is located in Pedder Building, a 1920s Beaux-Arts style located in the Central business district. Established in 2019 with a showroom in London and led by James Marks, Perpetual is the private-sale arm of the auction house that allows clients to buy and sell anytime, instead of during the traditional May and November auctions. Perpetual operates physical stores in London and Hong Kong, along with a seasonal pop-up in Gstaad, as well as its e-commerce platform. The Hong Kong outpost strengthens its foothold in Asia, home to many of Phillips’ important clients. Something for everyone As with its London store, the Hong Kong boutique’s offerings will continually evolve. At opening, however, Perpetual in Hong Kong showcases diversity in terms of brands, complications, and styles. The flagship offering is a Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300G-010, the brand’s most complicated wristwatch boasting a grande and petite sonnerie, alarm, date repeater, second time zone, and an instantaneous perpetual calendar. Another highlight is the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon “Homage to F.A. Lange” in Honey Gold launched in 2010 to mark the 165th birthday of its founder. Setting it apart from the earlier Lange 1 Tourbillon is a larger a...

First Look – The Handsome Blancpain Villeret Perpetual Calendar Goes Green Monochrome
Blancpain Villeret Perpetual Calendar Goes Feb 29, 2024

First Look – The Handsome Blancpain Villeret Perpetual Calendar Goes Green

Today, 29 February 2024, is a pretty special day for calendar watches… and specifically perpetual calendar timepieces. To mark the leap year, Blancpain is releasing a new version of its Villeret Quantième Perpétuel – or Villeret Perpetual Calendar – an elegant and functional available already in steel, red gold or a limited edition in platinum. […]