Hodinkee
Dispatch: How I Went To The Audrain Concours And Got Hooked On Lange
A. Lange & Söhne is a brand that doesn't need anybody's approval. But how do you stay relevant without being everybody's darling?
Hodinkee
A. Lange & Söhne is a brand that doesn't need anybody's approval. But how do you stay relevant without being everybody's darling?
Worn & Wound
The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 is among the great original chronograph designs to which the rules around aging just don’t seem to apply. Whether it’s the original and its many variations, or the modern reinterpretation, which we reviewed here, the Chronograph 1 is a benchmark when it comes to balancing form and function between the dial and case. Since re-introducing the Chronograph 1 in early 2022, a celebration of the watch’s 50th anniversary, Porsche Design has slowly been filling out the collection with interesting variations, largely in line with special releases from Porsche. This latest edition takes a different approach, recalling their past as a military watch, but with a civilian friendly nomenclature: Utility. The newest addition to the Chronograph 1 collection recalls details from military watches of the ‘70s, with many of the small details represented in a slightly altered manner, from unit insignia, to the tritium marking “3H” circled in red – each are repurposed to create a new, more inclusive platform called Utility. Further still, this is more than a visual exercise as the biggest feature of the new watch is the use of titanium carbide for the case, a material developed and patented by Porsche Design. The material is touted as tougher and lighter than what we presume is the titanium variation of the watch, with a titanium glass bead blasted finish on its exterior. The light gray, matte appearance is uniform with contrasting crown and push...
Time+Tide
The Benrus Ultra-Deep is a faithful twin-crown diver homage looks like it sprung straight out of the 1960s.The post The Benrus Ultra-Deep copies a page from the history books appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
From Marlon Brando's GMT-Master to Philippe Dufour's finest, some of the most important watches are hitting the auction block (again).
Worn & Wound
Sometimes a watch comes along and just kind of stops you in your tracks. We all, I think, have those moments where we stumble across a watch or see a new release and imagine that the brand has downloaded your thoughts and run them through some kind of artificial intelligence program designed to create watches that are uniquely appealing to you, and you alone. I think a lot of people are actually going to find the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon to be that kind of beautiful, but it happens to hit on a bunch of things that really sing to me in a watch like this. The Master Ultra Thin watches are incredible pieces of engineering, with impossibly slim movements that translate to cases that provide a wearing experience like little else on the market. If I could ever identify a gripe with the line, though, it’s that the dials have never really blown me away. They are very nice, to be sure, but they have a tendency to be relentlessly dressy, and a bit sober. That’s perfectly fine of course for a watch in this genre, but they tend not to have that “wow” factor. They’re watches for connoisseurs who know exactly what they’re looking for. The newest entry in the Master Ultra Thin collection has all the watchmaking chops and refined sensibilities of every other watch in their corner of the JLC family tree, but this one leads with the dial in a way that others don’t. The new Master Ultra Thin Moon features a dark gradient blue dial, borrowing a bit of that...
Hodinkee
Hodinkee Insurance partnered with Hindman Auctions to preview their upcoming watch auction featuring the collection of Glen de Vries.
Deployant
Louis Vuitton, along with its watchmaking arm La Fabrique du Temps, redefines the Tambour, as it becomes the brand's first integrated bracelet sports watch.
Time+Tide
Telling the story of the Cartier Tank Française, the unsung hero of the Cartier Tank collection.The post How the Cartier Tank Française changed over the decades appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Revolution
Quill & Pad
While it is remarkable how Girard-Perregaux made the movement, it is even more astonishing how they turned it into such an incredibly good-looking watch. Compared to its predecessor, the Neo Constant Escapement has a very wearable size of 45mm in diameter at a thickness of 14.8mm. It sits nicely on even a smaller wrist thanks to relatively short lugs, while the titanium case keeps the weight down.
Time+Tide
Montoir's design brief was simple - classic dive watch, Swiss movement, affordable price - and they delivered.The post The Montoir Dive Watch is an impressively affordable first effort from a new microbrand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
AVI-8 is a new brand to the Windup Watch Shop, and they’re debuting with the all-new Bell X-1 Automatic Limited Edition. Formed in 2012, AVI-8 set out to explore the world of aviation through horology. The brand draws inspiration from all facets of aviation, whether it’s an iconic aircraft, record-breaking feat, or act of bravery. The Bell X-1 Automatic pulls from all three, commemorating Chuck Yeager’s history making flight of the Bell X-1 aircraft well past the speed of sound. AVI-8 is a new brand to the Windup Watch Shop, and they’re debuting with the all-new Bell X-1 Automatic Limited Edition. Formed in 2012, AVI-8 set out to explore the world of aviation through horology. The brand draws inspiration from all facets of aviation, whether it’s an iconic aircraft, record-breaking feat, or act of bravery. The Bell X-1 Automatic pulls from all three, commemorating Chuck Yeager’s history making flight of the Bell X-1 aircraft well past the speed of sound. The post Now In The Shop: Breaking Barriers With AVI-8’s New Bell X-1 Automatic Limited Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
A Week In Watches returns with big news from Seiko, who revealed a pair of new Prospex references which celebrate the brand’s history in land-based watches. The pair of limited editions each pick up something special from Seiko’s history, starting with the SPB411 GMT, a watch that recalls the Navigator Timer of the ’60s, which was Seiko first GMT to feature a rotating bezel. The second is a revival of the Landmaster in celebration of its 30th anniversary, where Seiko has brought back the 3 dimensional compass bezel and blue gradient dial. Both work exceptionally well, and highlight the brand’s deep tool watch roots at their very best. Elsewhere we were thrilled to see a new release from Baltic this week, which shifted away from old-school-cool dive watches and put focus on classic field watches. The frame works brilliantly here with lumed applied numerals, a svelte case, and a trick crown that sits flush with the case wall. The watch boasts 4 different dials at launch, and is a welcome expansion of the brand’s refined sense of design. Finally, new releases from Nomos and Ming, as well as a collaboration between Montblanc/Minerva and Collective round out the news that’s caught our attention this week. Catch the full episode below for the run down, and be sure to leave a comment on your thoughts in the video for us to highlight in the next episode. Thanks to this week’s sponsor, Shinola, for their support. To commemorate 10 years of American design and manufact...
Time+Tide
There are many brands that claim to have a novelty up their sleeve, but there are first, and then there are first. Here are some of the most significant ones.The post 10 important firsts in watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Watch collaborations. Love them or hate them. They are not new, and will continue to be. We take a look at the collaborations, and pick the six of the best.
Time+Tide
Zach explains why case thickness matters and how a slim profile can elevate a watch design from good to great.The post Case thickness dictates the difference between a good watch design and a great one appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Here is an entertaining little story about John Keil, his Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and a bunch of guys around a poker table – a story he's sure many watch guys and gals can relate to.
Time+Tide
The new Louis Vuitton Tambour just made its runway debut. Here's why that's so significant.The post The Louis Vuitton watchmaking moment everyone missed at Paris Fashion Week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Still one of the most notable escapements on the market despite being a decade old, Girard-Perregaux’s double-wheel-and-silicon invention has been refined and revived as the Neo Constant Escapement. Presented in titanium, the Neo Constant Escapement is the regular production version of the unique piece in pink gold made for Only Watch 2023. The calibre within is a revamped version of the 2013 original that retains the double escape wheels and integral constant-force silicon spring, but reworked for superior function. Initial thoughts Technically impressive as it was, the original Constant Escapement (CE) from 2013 was huge (the case was 48 mm, making size one of its biggest weakness) and expensive at the time. That explains in part why the CE never caught on despite its merits. The revamp of the watch ten years old has substantially improved both its function and form. The Neo Constant Escapement (NCE) is both more wearable and more appealing in terms of design. Besides being more compact, the “Neo” case also has a highly domed crystal that shows off the escapement well. Even though the watch has been redesigned, the NCE retains the hyper-modern, open-worked styling of the original. The look certainly suits the inventive nature of the silicon escapement, though it would have been interesting if GP experimented with a classical design, which might have been ironic but attractive for the contrasting ideas. Equally important is the fact that the retail price remains ab...
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. WatchTime Returns to NYC This year’s Windup Watch Fair in New York City is right around the corner (less than a week away!) and it once again coincides with WatchTime New York, held annually at Gotham Hall, just a few subway stops away from Windup festivities at the Altman Building. WatchTime is absolutely worth checking out, and combined with Windup it should make for a great weekend of watches in NYC. This year at WatchTime you’ll be able to see a huge variety of brands, some of whom will be bringing watches that are tough to see in person, including MB&F;, Breguet, Louis Erard, Greubel Forsey, and many, many others. This year, WatchTime has generously offered a special code to Worn & Wound readers to get a free Sunday ticket ($39 value) by entering the code Worn&Wound;_Sunday in the “enter coupon code” field when checking out on the WatchTime website. KAM Outline Keycaps & GMK Hyperfuse Group Buy If you spend most of your time sitting in front of a keyboard, you probably deserve a better one. Mechanical keyboard enthusiasts put plenty of time and effort into finding jus...
Quill & Pad
What makes high end watches so desirable is the artistry involved. For some watches, it is artistry in their complexity, or their superlative hand finishing, or intricate dials, and some feature actual artwork like miniature painting. Then there are a very few timepieces that offer all of that artistry and more: one such timepiece is the unique piece Louis Moinet Savanna Tourbillon Tiger.
Time+Tide
An incredible feat of collaborative horology from Akrivia and Louis Vuitton stole the show this week, as did new models from the likes of Ming and Bōken.The post New releases from Breguet, Ba111oD, Atelier Wen and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Hanhart, the watch manufacturer from the Black Forest, has added a new special edition to its PRIMUS collection: the PRIMUS FLY NAVY.
Time+Tide
Can a $5,000 watch really be considered a value proposition? We certainly think so - here's why.The post The Tudor Pelagos FXD Alinghi edition is a crazy value proposition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
If you’re after a sporty chic watch that will set you apart, the limited production Speak-Marin Ripples Original in black could be the out of the box choice! What We Love The ripple effect dialThinness of the caseWears extremely comfortable What We Don’t Bracelet clasp is tricky to undoLack of water resistanceNo lume on the dial Overall Rating: 8.625/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 When it comes to the world of watches, the smaller independents often come second to the larger mass luxury brands. With the exception of a few high Haute Horology Maisons, many are overlooked by collectors and buyers alike. Partly due to the lack of mainstream brand presence, i.e marketing dollars, and partly due to the entry pricing of them, with many starting in the 10s of thousands of dollars. But for a good reason! Speake-Marin is one of these brands. The Maison is just 20 years young, and fiercely independent since the English/Swiss watchmaker was bought by an ambitious and ardent female entrepreneur, Christelle Rosnoblet in 2012. With it’s brand roots in England, yet now calling Switzerland home, the Maison’s pieces are developed, assembled and controlled in a fine watchmaking workshop, Le Cercle des Horlogers, which works hand in hand with Speake-Marin’s creation studio based in Geneva. The Speake-Marin Original Ripples Original Black Speake-Marin’s philosophy is simple, and boils down to three elements: All its collections are propo...
Time+Tide
This new Zenith Chronomaster Sport introduces a blue dial and steel bezel into the core stainless steel range for the first time.The post This new steel Zenith Chronomaster Sport debuts a blue dial, but ditches the ceramic bezel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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