Latest watch news · Page 771

We’ve spent years testing Japanese watch brands. This guide breaks down what each one does well and who it's for.

Allow us to introduce you to the UNIMATIC Carbon Limited Editions For Hodinkee - two unique watches limited to 250 units each that take the form of the U4S and the U1S GMT, now reimagined in forged carbon fiber cases that are lighter and more hard-wea...

For the better part of two decades, Wempe has been producing high-quality watches out of their home in Glashütte, Germany. Three new models from their Iron Walker collection have been released, each exhibiting the Vorliebe that our Teutonic cousins have for precision, beauty, and exceptional quality. The first to debut in the new Iron Walker collection is the Diver. Taking inspiration from the steel constructions that defined the era of imagination in 1920’s New York, the Diver marries the simplicity of a good watch and the beauty of a great watch into one. At 42mm, it’s a robust size but the overall finish, such as the diminutive day date and the lumed hands, help to keep it from feeling too bulky. The Diver comes in two colorways (blue and black), is water-resistant to 30 bars, and runs on a ETA 2892-A2 automatic movement, giving the wearer up to 50 hours of power reserve.  Next up in the Iron Walker collection is Tide. Mixing maritime influences to the collection, this watch is as much about function as it is about form. While one could enjoy the balance of blue and black against the steel case alone, the real beauty is the internal mechanism of this watch. For life on the coast, the Tide’s rotating bezel offers maximum visibility on how much time will elapse between the next low or high tide. Similar to the Diver above, the Tide shares similar specs, such as an ETA 2892-A2 automatic movement, 30 bars of water-resistance, and lumed hands and hour markers. Last, ...

Pros Unique sapphire crystal The cool Ceramos bezelSkeletonized dial Cons Crown operations can get trickyCombining Square faceted sapphire crystal and Skeleton dial can get busy.Design cues for the DiaStar are not for everyone. Overall Rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7.5/10Wearability: 7.5/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 8/10 Rado’s iconic DiaStar model gets another update following last year’s 60th anniversary of the DiaStar edition, getting a case material change from hard metal to Rado CeramosTM and a one of kind Square faceted sapphire crystal. The Rado DiaStar was first introduced in 1962, and what an introduction it was. A milestone for the watch industry, the Rado DiaStar came with a ‘funky’ design and, more importantly, a scratch-proof case. Rado designed the very first DiaStar as a ceramic timepiece with a material called “tungsten carbide”. Although some people may argue that it’s not ceramic, tungsten carbide is considered ceramic, at least by the American Ceramic Society.  This is important because no timepiece at the time of DiaStar’s debut could offer a scratch-proof watch. When it comes to material innovation, the Diastar in ceramic was a breakthrough for the watchmaking industry. In modern times, the use of ceramic on timepieces is a more regular occurrence; however, for the industry as a whole, brands didn’t get on board with this material till around the 1980s. This highlights how far ahead in terms of material expertise and usage Rado wa...

Tissot extends their very popular Powermatic 80 series with two additional new references in 35mm, in an ice blue and in gold.

The Prestige from the newly renamed Pöhlmann-Bresan (the brand started life as Junge Uhrmacher) is one of the latest additions to Saxony’s long and storied history as the epicentre of German watchmaking. Based in Dresden, just a short drive from the nation’s horological heart in Glashütte, the Pöhlmann-Bresan workshop is up and running with all of the traditional hand skills one might expect. Remarkably, this has been achieved just ten years after the founders met each other while working with and learning from Marco Lang while he was still at Lang & Heyne. Initial thoughts The watch in question is the perfect showcase for the artisanal techniques mastered by founders Lukas Pöhlmann and Josef Bresan during their careers thus far. Inside is the Pöhlmann-Bresan JU26-01 that was originally designed by LIP and subsequently produced under licence in the Soviet Union as the Pobeda cal. 2608. Pöhlmann-Bresan found this calibre attractive because of its unusual bridge architecture. The JU26-01 before being mounted in the case, showing the depth that has been achieved. Thanks to the central seconds hand wheel being set directly above the centre wheel of the gear train, the bridges are uncommonly high. This double-layered effect means that incredible visual depth can be achieved if the train bridge is appropriately skeletonised, as Messrs Pöhlmann and Bresan have done here. Additionally, the rapidly-moving central seconds wheel acts as a natural and dynamic focal point, a...

The King Seiko SJE095 highlights a chrysanthemum pattern as Japan’s national flower. The case is based on the original King Seiko from 1965 with an even thinner profile. It’s a limited edition of 600 pieces and will be available from October 2023. Although its return to market focused mainly on recreating vintage models, King Seiko … ContinuedThe post The King Seiko SJE095 takes its dial inspiration from Japan’s national flower appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In what is becoming an unlikely summer tradition Glashütte Original is back with a pair of chronographs in fun, 1970s inspired colors. For each of the last two years, the German brand has introduced limited edition versions of their excellent Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date, an integrated bracelet sports watch that you’d be forgiven for forgetting was in GO’s catalog given that the lion’s share of watch enthusiast attention is placed on the watches that make up the Pano collection. Their vintage inspired designs, however, tap into a completely different, funky aesthetic that the brand owns every bit as convincingly as the more formal watches under the Pano umbrella, and the annual release of colorful, limited edition chronos has become a highlight.  While Glashütte Original has opted for loud and bright colors in past limited edition drops, this year they’ve gone for something a little more muted. The “Golden Bay” chronograph is in an unusual ochre shade, and appears as a somewhat dull golden tone. It vaguely resembles a dial that might have been exposed to weather and harsh sunlight for decades, which fits into the 70s vibe nicely. The “Ocean Breeze” variant is a more obviously seasonal shade of light blue, clearly inspired by summer beach getaways. Both variants have a matte lacquer finish, and are accented with black subdials for the chronograph.  It’s worth noting here that the chronograph functionality in this reference is anything but run of...

Typically only used in higher watches, ceramic cases are a luxury not seen in the price range of these offerings from Zodiac. Based on the popular Super Sea Wolf design, these three watches forego their stainless steel cases for a fun and casual white ceramic. Let’s take a closer look at these brand new, summer-ready divers that still retain their tool watch specs even though they’re housed in different case. Typically only used in higher watches, ceramic cases are a luxury not seen in the price range of these offerings from Zodiac. Based on the popular Super Sea Wolf design, these three watches forego their stainless steel cases for a fun and casual white ceramic. Let’s take a closer look at these brand new, summer-ready divers that still retain their tool watch specs even though they’re housed in different case. The post Now in the Shop: 3 Summer Ready Ceramic Sea Wolves from Zodiac appeared first on Worn & Wound.

When you see press release after press release hit your inbox, with nearly every news item celebrating an anniversary, or honoring somebody who may or may not have anything at all to do with watches, it’s easy to become cynical. Watch companies, after all, exist in part to make money, and highlighting an association with the past, or a synergy with a partner, is relatively low hanging fruit to get your name, and watch, out there in front of the public, potentially grabbing fresh eyeballs that might not be familiar a brand’s particular story. Some brands navigate these waters with all the tact of a late night infomercial, but others have a knack for doing it gracefully, and authentically, and that was made evident over the course of the multi day launch event around the new Oris Hank Aaron Limited Edition in Atlanta.  One of the first things to know about Oris is that VJ Geronimo, CEO of the Americas for the brand, is a massive baseball fan. I mean, he’s really into it. Find him on Instagram, and you’ll see that his profile picture has him in a Yankees cap, posed in what I assume is the home team’s dugout. Oris Day at Yankee Stadium (and other major league ballparks) is an annual event, and once you experience a game with Oris, it all just kind of makes sense. Baseball is an old fashioned, uniquely American tradition in the same way that watchmaking is loaded with history and predominantly Swiss. In a contemporary context, the things that bind them together are c...

Plus a rare Japanese market Grand Seiko and a classic from Jaeger-LeCoultre.

The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar makes a return to the limelight, now with a pink gold dial, on its 10th birthday.

After two years of waiting, fans of the Arken Instrumentum have finally received a followup from the microbrand. At the time, it was one of the best-specced titanium divers around for the money, and the new Arken Alterum has a lot to live up to. Now that titanium has become a lot more prevalent in … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Arken Alterum is a dive-ready GMT in lightweight titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Sport case inspired by the Grand Seiko emblem is a fairly new addition to the brand’s stable, having made its debut in 2019 with a trio of limited editions to mark the 20th anniversary of the Spring Drive. Now the distinctive facetted case joins the regular collection with the Sport Spring Drive SBGA481 “Tokyo Lion”. The big and bold case is accompanied by a fresh opaline dial featuring a texture reminiscent of a lion’s mane.  Initial thoughts  Although Grand Seiko historically expended a significant amount of effort in developing its more formal offerings, it more recently extended its efforts towards its Sports line, particularly the “Lion” models with its trademark facetted case. Initially found only on limited editions, this case has now transitioned into a readily-available production model. As with many Grand Seiko watches, sports or not, the Tokyo Lion’s standout feature is the dial, specifically the intricate and abstract textured pattern that complements the zaratsu polishing on the titanium case. The pattern is appealing enough that I hope the brand further iterates on this captivating pattern; though I expect that is a given since Grand Seiko inevitably iterates on successful models and elements. It is worth noting that the Tokyo Lion is fairly oversized at 44.5 mm, like many Grand Seiko Sports models, but given that the case and bracelet are made from titanium, it should feel light and comfortable while on the wrist.  The Tokyo Lion is pric...

For CHF 4,950, the Ming 37.05 Series 2 is a thoroughly thought-out design, a generous dose of original character, and a fun execution on one of the industry's oldest complications: the moon phase. Unfortunately, it quickly sold out.

The Longines museum in St-Imier showcases the brand’s illustrious history in the form of 500 timepieces, navigational instruments and timekeeping devices. Unfortunately, in this luckily fictitious scenario, the museum is on fire! Daniel Hug, Longines Head of Brand Heritage, can only save three watches before the whole place goes up in smoke. “Oh my God!” … ContinuedThe post The Longines Museum is on fire! Which three watches should be saved? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Pilot Watches are an excellent option for everyday wear. They’re bold, legible, and have some serious history behind them. Right up there with the field watch, Pilot watches are iconic military-style watches which have carried over into the civilian world extraordinarily well. There are a few classic elements that make a watch a pilot’s watch, the most notable being a triangle index at 12, a large and legible hand set, and a case that rides on the larger side. Today, we’re highlighting three picks from the shop that scratch that pilot watch itch at any budget. Under $500 is Seiko 5 Sports’ SRPH29, at right around $1000 is the Laco Paderborn, and in the $2000 range is Oris’ modern take on the pilot’s watch. Let’s dig in and take a closer look. Pilot Watches are an excellent option for everyday wear. They’re bold, legible, and have some serious history behind them. Right up there with the field watch, Pilot watches are iconic military-style watches which have carried over into the civilian world extraordinarily well. There are a few classic elements that make a watch a pilot’s watch, the most notable being a triangle index at 12, a large and legible hand set, and a case that rides on the larger side. Today, we’re highlighting three picks from the shop that scratch that pilot watch itch at any budget. Under $500 is Seiko 5 Sports’ SRPH29, at right around $1000 is the Laco Paderborn, and in the $2000 range is Oris’ modern take on the pilot’s watch. ...

If you ask a watch enthusiast, one of the most exciting parts of the hobby is not actually wearing watches. The real excitement stems from circling a watch, considering whether you really want it and, ultimately, hunting it down. Sometimes that journey is far more rewarding than the destination and, as many have expressed, we … ContinuedThe post The Time+Tide team share 3 watches they are each circling right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

CEO Chris Grainger-Herr tells us about the brand's latest crop of aviator's watches, complete with new materials and new movements.

A quick survey of watches with cases made with novel use of non-traditional materials. We pick six of the best and discuss the tech.

Martin Green thinks that the Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton 39mm is sized perfectly. And to see the skeletonized movement and (nearly) all its parts, the way they interact and work, is captivating.

Unobtanium. It is a word many collectors use these days, with more and more references fitting this gloomy bill. It sucks to know that when certain brands release new watches, your chances of getting one at retail are quite slim, short of a long buyer’s history or a big dose of luck. So the question … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Oyster Perpetual lacquer dials continue to attract an A-list crowd – a definitive list appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our hands-on picks for the best watches under $2,000, tested for real-world performance to see which ones truly earn their price.

Big brands are now making beautiful, reliable, and relatively accurate “traditional” mechanical watches, but the handcrafted work many of us value is disappearing. Highly skilled watchmakers and artisans are rare and expensive: there just aren’t enough of them available to churn out the large quantity of nice watches now being sold. And why bother when nobody seems to have noticed?

So. I have detailed the first stop of my trip to Japan with Grand Seiko at the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi – the home of all things 9S mechanical. Then we returned back to Ginza from Morioka, and swung by the Seiko Museum Ginza to get intimate with the history of the corporation and the … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 3: The Seiko House Ginza (Wako Main Building) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A hands-on review of the Marathon Navigator pilot's watch-a real-world affordable option in the world of mil-spec watch collecting.