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Breguet's iconic pilot chronograph is back.

Wei sits down with Constant as he introduces his latest project with Cartier, a set of five Cartier Tank Cintrée in Luminous Arabic Numerals uniquely crafted from the Maison by the exclusive New Special Order program or NSO. The Cartier New Special Order program is a unique service that allows the creation of customized Cartier […]

If you’ve been paying attention to watchmaking trends in the last few years, then you’ll be incredibly aware of the push towards sustainability throughout the entire industry. Whether it’s a net-zero carbon production, vegan leather straps or the slightly controversial BioCeramic MoonSwatch, renewable or recycled materials are popping up in more and more releases. One … ContinuedThe post Who are #tide and what do they do? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Two years ago, Louis Vuitton unveiled the Tambour Street Diver, a livelier iteration of its longstanding Tambour dive watch. Now the brand debuts the Tambour Street Diver Chronograph, adding further a stopwatch to the nautical-inspired aesthetic. Together, the two Street Divers now form the entry-level of the brand’s mechanical watch offerings, which progress upwards into seven-figure, minute-repeater-with-automaton territory. Initial thoughts The new chronograph is a natural progression from its predecessor, retaining the elements of a traditional dive watch, including a less-common inner rotating bezel, while incorporating Louis Vuitton’s bold and modern styling, including the tall, drum-shaped case. The design is as much “street” as it is “diver”, and very much in keeping with the brand’s aesthetic. Both the case and dial are executed well, although the two-tone case might not be to everyone’s taste. Enthusiasts, however, will note the ETA movement inside. The movement is reliable and robust, though the US$11,105 price tag deserves a more interesting calibre. That said, given Louis Vuitton’s well-funded ambitions in watchmaking, it is a certainty that the brand will soon roll out in-house calibres in all price segments of its catalogue. Nautically inspired The new chronograph available in two variations: Skyline Blue (blue with metallic sun-ray finish) and Neon Black (matte black), each matched with a case colour in the same colour. Both have the same ...

When it comes to pilot chronographs, particularly military inspired pilot chronographs, the Type XX sits at the top of a very large pile of well loved and highly collectible watches. Most often associated with Breguet, the Type XX is analogous to the “Dirty Dozen” W.W.W. field watches produced by a number of manufacturers in the WWII years on a contract basis for the British Ministry of Defense. In the case of the Type XX, it was the French military who contracted watchmakers to create a high spec chronograph. The requirements were specific and rigid: black dials, chrono registers at 3:00 and 9:00, the capability to time events up to 30 minutes, a 38mm case, and a 12 hour bezel among them. Mathey-Tissot and Dodane were among the brands charged with manufacturing these watches along with Breguet. Over the years, the style of this simple pilot’s chronograph has influenced countless other brands and has been straight up copied by many, and along the way it became a staple of the modern Breguet lineup. That is, until the contemporary Type XX was discontinued a few years ago. Now, the Type XX is back in a fairly big way, in two different versions with two different names that I promise are not confusing at all.  Announced yesterday, Breguet has unveiled an all new Type XX (the civilian version) and a Type 20 (the military version). References 2067 and 2057, respectively, both carry aesthetic elements from classic versions of the watch, but have some subtle (and also some...

A new type of fashion watch has entered the chat.

The Sotheby’s Important Watches sale is set to take place on June 9 in New York. A total of 135 lots are set to go under the hammer, with an interesting mix of vintage and modern watches among them. As with any major auction, there are too many great lots to do all of them proper justice, but our editorial team studied the catalog and a handful of watches (and other items) jumped out at us. From unique Paul Newman racing ephemera, to cool clocks and a whole bunch of Breguet, there’s something here for any watch enthusiast (or movie fan) to get excited about. Here are some of the highlights, chosen by Zach Kazan, Blake Buettner, and Zach Weiss. Zach Kazan Lots 28 and 29: Paul Newman Racing Ephemera  While the centerpiece of the upcoming Important Watches sale at Sotheby’s is a Daytona owned by Paul Newman, the lots that make this auction truly unique and special are Newman related, but not actually watches at all. After all, we’ve done the Paul Newman Daytona thing. But what we haven’t done, at least not in a watch collecting milieu, a racing suit. Along with a truly superlative selection of watches, Sotheby’s has some great Paul Newman racing ephemera that goes a long way toward reminding us that the watch that has become synonymous with his name wasn’t a prop, or part of a costume. He wore it because it was a watch for race car drivers, and Paul Newman was a race car driver.  Lot 49 is a cream colored racing jumpsuit worn by Newman on at least two occasion...

Whether it’s a watch with a fun pop of color, or something super functional for that impromptu jump in a pool, picking out a new summer-ready watch is the perfect excuse to go shopping. Today, we’re going over five of our favorite watches that will make an ideal wrist companion for all of your summer trips, dips, and more. Read on to learn more about a classically-styled diver, a go anywhere, do anything hybrid, the most colorful watch in the shop, and more. Whether it’s a watch with a fun pop of color, or something super functional for that impromptu jump in a pool, picking out a new summer-ready watch is the perfect excuse to go shopping. Today, we’re going over five of our favorite watches that will make an ideal wrist companion for all of your summer trips, dips, and more. Read on to learn more about a classically-styled diver, a go anywhere, do anything hybrid, the most colorful watch in the shop, and more. The post 5 Summer-Friendly Watches from the Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.

I’ve often sung RZE’s praises as one of the few microbrands to have kept their prices as low as possible while providing fantastic specifications, and not giving in to the temptation of price gouging or corner-cutting. After they released the bang-for-buck Valour 38 to compete for field supremacy, and brought the best-selling Endeavour case to … ContinuedThe post The RZE Aspirare launches the brand into yet unexplored waters appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ralph Lauren updates their equestrian inspired Stirrup Collection with new models in five size optiopns with options in rose gold or stailness steel face.

Despite the obvious links to a passion for photography, it seems as though the chief mission for Horage is to redefine the meaning of ‘tool watch’. With cameras taking the bulk of the design inspiration, the photography links are merely an outlet for that proof of concept. Creating a beautiful, high-end watch can still be … ContinuedThe post The Horage Lensman 2 doubles down on the vintage camera inspiration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

It’s not often I get to write about watches that can’t be bought, but occasionally there’s something special enough to warrant exploration. I have already delved deep into the history of Bovet, from their familial ancestry in Fleurier to their absolute dominance in 19th century Canton. Despite some struggles in the past, The House of … ContinuedThe post The OWO & House of Bovet Special Edition 19Thirty is a truly exclusive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Following the launch of a revamped flagship perpetual calendar, Breguet now reboots its famous pilot’s chronograph with the Type XX Chronographe 2057 and 2067. Descended from the military-issue watches introduced in the 1950s, the new Type XX makes its debut with a pair of watches – one military inspired and the other civilian – that are identical on a fundamental level but distinctly different in look and feel. Significant enhancements have been introduced with the latest-generation Type XX, including more sophisticated case finishing, but most notable is the newly-developed flyback chronograph movement with an extended power reserve and high-frequency, 5 Hz escapement. (The new models are referred to as Type XX, as are vintage pilot’s chronographs sold to the civilian market. Vintage military-issue chronographs are known as Type 20, as is historical practice.) The ref. 2067 modelled on the civilian Type XX of the 1960s Initial thoughts After introducing the Type XX and Type XXI, Breguet has returned back to the Type XX model name with a new watch that retains many of the distinctive design elements that define the Type XX, while incorporating significant improvements to the design, details, and of course movement. At 42 mm, the new Type XX is a large watch, but sized correctly for a pilot’s chronograph. The lugs are also relatively short so the watch sits well on the wrist. And enthusiasts will appreciate the fact that the case size corresponds to the movement....

Accutron revived their famous electrostatic movement with a modern Spaceview in 2020, tapping into a heap of nostalgia in the process. This year, the Spaceview is getting its first major update with the release of the Spaceview Evolution, pushing the aesthetic concepts of the watch into new territory. The new variants retain every bit of the drama embraced by the original (both from the ‘60s, and from 2020), and dial up the ‘style’ factor thanks to some new finishes and color schemes that compliment the exposed components of the electrostatic movement. It remains as polarizing as ever, which is a refreshing move these days.  The new Spaceview Evolution offers a pair of new flavors that bring a light and a dark appearance to the platform. The biggest shift you’ll notice right off the bat is the rotated orientation of everything on the dial. This is due to the 30° counter clockwise rotation of the movement, which alters the dial layout, and moves the crown from the 3 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position. The move opens up the top portion of the dial a bit further, bunching the three large apertures into the bottom dial’s bottom half. In addition to the layout rotation, the bridge work that frames the exposed areas of the movement, as well as the chapter ring at the perimeter, have received a healthy dose of finishing work, both to their surface and to their edges. The sprawling framing bridge shape gets a guilloche look with diamond polished bevels, whi...

This million-dollar watch is a rockstar's dream.

Last week, Blake wrote an editorial examining the idea of the so-called “4th watch,” and I’ve been thinking about it ever since. I can feel myself heading into what I have a feeling will come to be known as the Summer of the Fourth Watch. I find that when I’m picking out a watch for the day, the normal stuff doesn’t catch my eye. I’m drawn to bright colors, unusual shapes, and left of the middle executions more than I normally am, and my “normal” is kind of weird to begin with. For whatever reason, though, I’m in a season of experimentation and, frankly, boredom with the obvious choices. It’s possible that come fall, I could have a box full of 4th watches.  So it’s with this frame of mind that I’m approaching the latest announcement from Ralph Lauren, a refresh of their Stirrup watch collection featuring a selection of colorful interchangeable leather straps. Am I going to buy a Stirrup watch? Probably not. Almost certainly not. I can’t imagine it. But I can see the appeal of these as a potential 4th watch.  The truth is, I’ve always been a fan of Ralph Lauren watches. They tend to have clean, classic designs, and the watches themselves are very well made. Many belong in another watch category we like to talk about here, the Sleeper. There are truly high end and beautifully finished Ralph Lauren watches that are hiding under the cover of the dreaded “fashion watch” designation, but these aren’t mass produced, hastily licensed junk. They ...

Despite “Road” and “Ocean” not necessarily being compatible worlds, the Ball Roadmaster Ocean Explorer is an incredibly cohesive watch with impressive features. Few brands can blend classical sophistication and modern ingenuity as well as Ball can, and they also understand the need mechanical watch lovers have for analogue interactions. Whether you have a need to … ContinuedThe post The Ball Roadmaster Ocean Explorer blends nautical utility with strong all-round specifications appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Wei sits down with Laurens de Rijke of De Rijke & Co., to understand how a small Dutch independent brand created an iconic watch featuring one of the most well-loved cartoon characters on the planet, Miffy. Our latest collaboration with De Rijke & Co. is an inspired take on De Rijke & Co’s original sold-out […]

The De Rijke & Co. “Miffy” watches have unexpectedly launched the Dutch brand to a level of acclaim over the last few years that would have been hard for most people to predict. That isn’t because the watches they make aren’t worthy (we’ve been following them closely since the excellent Amalfi 1S, reviewed here in the pre-Miffy days), but because the Miffy character is quintessentially Dutch, and not an internationally known and obvious subject for a character watch. And also because, well, who would have thought that the “elegant driver’s watch” format would lend itself so well to a character at all? There’s an obvious sense of whimsy here, a youthful playfulness combined with De Rijke’s eye for great design that just really works. And the latest Miffy watch is perhaps the most impressive yet: a limited edition run made in collaboration with Revolution, featuring a unique perspective on De Rijke’s Miffy moonphase execution.  The previous Miffy watches (which we wrote about here and here) were essentially opportunities for De Rijke to experiment with bold colors and work in an aesthetic defined by the illustrations of Miffy creator Dick Bruna. The moonphase disc captures Miffy riding a crescent moon, surrounded by stars, with luminescent material applied to the nighttime scene. It’s one of the largest moonphase indicators we know of in a wristwatch, with the width of the disc itself coming in at 20mm. The artwork takes advantage of the large size ...

Bvlgari extends their very popular Aluminium collection with new references in time only, a destro model, and chronograph.

The Swiss watch industry's revenues hit record highs in 2022, but it's selling fewer watches than ever before. Can it last?

The Dan Henry 1970 44mm has been re-issued four years after it sold out. The range of new colours includes a black and cream dial with a blacked-out case. It’s available as a limited edition of 1,970 pieces. Dan Henry has soared since the brand’s inception back in 2016, and they can hardly even be … ContinuedThe post The Dan Henry 1970 44mm is back with new colours and the same, affordable price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Many watch collectors own one of more smartwatches, and most of them collect dust in a drawer as the novelty has worn off. so how are Sequent watches different? Martin Green explains.

Having already debuted an oversized take on the ref. 765 AVI “Co-Pilot” of 1953, Breitling now introduces the Classic AVI Chronograph 42, a scaled-down version that pays homage to the vintage original. Unlike its bigger brother, the 46 mm Super AVI GMT that features a second time zone function, the Classic AVI is a no-frills watch with just the time and chronograph. The Classic AVI makes its debut with a range of regular-production models, each inspired by a historical fighter plane, alongside the limited-edition AVI ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition. Classic AVI Chronograph 42 Curtiss P-40 Warhawk Initial thoughts The Super AVI GMT is a vintage-inspired chronograph with an appealing design, but with the drawback of the 46 mm case – huge by even by modern standards. The introduction of a more compact version is welcome, even if this addition further expands Breitling’s extensive (and sometimes confusing) catalogue.  With its smaller case, the Classic AVI has arguably better proportions than its bigger brother, with dimensions better suited to the vintage-inspired styling. And because it is equipped with a Valjoux movement (otherwise known as the Breitling Caliber 23), the Classic AVI is amongst the most affordable Breitling chronographs, adding to its appeal. The P-51 Mustang The P-51 Mustang is the standout among the Classic AVI line-up. It has classic pilot’s chronograph aesthetics with a black dial and faux-patina Arabic numerals that provide a nostalgic feel.  But e...

The classic, rugged, and modern diver gets sized down for the rest of us.