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Had a watch stolen? Use this Premier League footballer’s tactic to get it back… Time+Tide
Rolex May 24, 2023

Had a watch stolen? Use this Premier League footballer’s tactic to get it back…

In March this year, Premier League footballer Rico Henry was in a London hotel when he somehow managed to lose his Rolex. The watch had apparently fallen out of his pocket. When Henry discovered that his Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126715CHMR was missing, the Brentford left-back was understandably distraught. But when he checked with the … ContinuedThe post Had a watch stolen? Use this Premier League footballer’s tactic to get it back… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Massena LAB Launches the Mathey-Tissot Mergulhador, a Follow Up to Last Year’s Type XX Chrono Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Launches May 24, 2023

Massena LAB Launches the Mathey-Tissot Mergulhador, a Follow Up to Last Year’s Type XX Chrono

At the end of last year, Massena LAB had an unexpected hit with a pair of limited edition Type XX chronographs signed by Mathey-Tissot. Those watches were inspired by a watch in Massena LAB founder William Massena’s personal collection, and that’s also the genesis of his latest project bearing the Mathy-Tissot name. This time, the watch in question is the Mergulhador Skin Diver, a watch that you’d be forgiven for being enamored with based on name alone. “Mergulhador” means “diver” in Portuguese, and as you’d probably guess, the original version of the watch was marketed to the Portuguese market in the 1970s, and was aimed at both military and civilian customers. It’s a bit obscure, but that’s what’s fun about it, and why it makes sense for someone with Massena’s knowledge and background to bring it to a larger audience.  The main attraction here is the dial, which is a rich amber fumé that gives the appearance of being weatherbeaten for decades. The amber color is complemented by bright orange hour markers and an orange minute track against a black background that feels right out of the 1970s central watch casting. The dial also features oversized white lume plots at each hour, the size of which is certainly in keeping with the general 1970s aesthetic. I think Massena LAB deserves credit here for resisting the urge to use a “faux-tina” tone for the lume. That might have been the obvious way to go for such a vintage influenced watch, but the to...

Auction Watch: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain I Sells For US$924,000 SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi May 24, 2023

Auction Watch: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain I Sells For US$924,000

One of the most anticipated watches by an independent watchmaker to go under the hammer this season has set a record: the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain I (RRCCI) in pink gold sold at Phillips’ Hong Kong auction for HK$7.24 million including fees, equivalent to US$924,000. Notable for being in an ordinary, as opposed to charity, auction, the result of almost US$1.0 million puts its maker, the founder of Akrivia, in rarefied company alongside the likes of F.P. Journe, the only other independent watchmakers whose time-only watches can sell for such sums. The RRCCI that just sold was the first example of the model to emerge at auction, with only one other example having sold on the secondary market but privately. With the watch already sold out and a long waiting list for its successor, the RRCCII, there were high expectations for the watch at Phillips, which originally retailed for under US$70,000. Everyone’s on it The excitement as the lot came up was palpable. Auctioneer Aurel Bacs commented that so many bidders were phoning in that every Phillips employee on the phone bank was on the line. Although there were at least a half dozen bidders to start with – all on the phone save for one room bidder – the contenders thinned out at the HK$4.00 million mark. Remaining were just three bidders: Alex Ghotbi and Tiffany To of Phillips on the phones with clients, and the gentleman at the back of the room. Both based in Geneva, Mr Ghotbi and Ms To were presumably re...

Exhibition: Jaeger-LeCoultre “Reverso Stories” in Singapore SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Stories” May 24, 2023

Exhibition: Jaeger-LeCoultre “Reverso Stories” in Singapore

Tracing the evolution of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s trademark watch, Reverso Stories will soon open at Marina Bay Sands in Singapore. Admission is free but registration is required to attend. The exhibition starts with the Reverso’s origins in 1931 as a sports watch and culminates with the highly complicated models of the present day. A curated selection of vintage and contemporary pieces will be on show to illustrate the versatility and timeless nature of the iconic design.  Among the highlights are the latest watches just unveiled at Watches & Wonders in March, including the Reverso Tribute Chronograph. But the highlight is the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque, a grand complication boasting four faces and a movement with over 800 components. The exhibition will also feature Origin, a multimedia artwork by Korean artist Yiyun Kang, who serves as one of the brand’s artistic collaborators. Relying on projection mapping, her installation introduces another dimension to the exhibition. And of course the exhibition venue includes the 1931 Café where drinks are served in an Art Deco setting. Yiyun Kang The Art Deco-inspired 1931 Café Reverso Stories takes place from June 1-8, 2023 at the Marina Sands Bay Plaza. It is open to the public daily from 11:00 am-8:00 pm. Admission is free, but registration is required to attend.  Marina Bay Sands B2M-240 2 Bayfront Ave Singapore 018972 To register, visit jaegerlecoultre.com.  

Nomos Honors 175 Years of Glashütte Watchmaking with Orion Trio Worn & Wound
Nomos Honors 175 Years May 23, 2023

Nomos Honors 175 Years of Glashütte Watchmaking with Orion Trio

Nomos has been a staple of consistency in recent years, tweaking their finely honed collections to further degrees of refinement. Nowhere is that more apparent than in this latest trio of limited edition Orion watches, which represent a nod to 175 years of watchmaking in the German town of Glashütte. The new Orion watches are as subtle as they are beautiful, with plenty of joy to discover in the sparingly deployed details. Subtlety is the name of the game here, and Nomos does this better than just about anyone, with the Orion serving as the perfect platform not only for this concept, but also historic watches crafted by young watchmakers looking to make a mark, not only for themselves, but for the town of Glashütte. As watchmaking apprentices in Glashütte would complete their training, a final project watch would be built to showcase their finely tuned skills at that point. These were anything but practice watches, they were built to “demonstrate the full breadth and depth of their skill”. It is here that Nomos has derived inspiration for this trio of Orion watches, which showcase their own set of unique details that reflect the pride of watchmaking in Glashütte. The Orion watches that celebrate 175 years of Glashütte watchmaking are, naturally, limited to 175 pieces each. They are the Orion neomatik, Orion neomatik 39 and Orion neomatik 41 date, collectively. Each boast silver plated, domed dials with gold indices for an incredibly subtle but chic look. In a firs...

Opinion: When WatchRecon Alerts Tell the Story of Your Life Worn & Wound
Zenith Retro Timer.” I also May 23, 2023

Opinion: When WatchRecon Alerts Tell the Story of Your Life

The oldest WatchRecon alert that I currently have set up on my phone is for a “Zenith Retro Timer.” I also have an alert for a “Zenith Retrotimer,” because I figure if I’m not really sure how the name of this watch is stylized, maybe a potential seller isn’t either. I think I added this watch to my list of alerts sometime in 2018, or thereabouts. I was falling in love with Zenith as a brand, discovering all kinds of weird Defys from the 1970s and ana-digi watches from the 80s, but the novelty of the Retrotimer loomed especially large. This is Zenith’s continuously running, monopusher flyback execution of their famous El Primero chronograph movement. A push of the button near 4:00 sets the minute totalizer and chrono seconds hand immediately back to zero, but it just starts right up again. Zenith apparently didn’t make many of these (it’s kind of the definition of a niche product) and it seems like the kind of thing WatchRecon was invented for.  I’ve always felt that we can learn a lot about ourselves, and our watch collecting friends, if we stop to consider our WatchRecon alerts. This simple app crawls over the most popular watch trading forums (Reddit’s r/watchexchange, WatchUSeek, Rolex Forums, etc) to find listings matching a search term. It takes the leg work out of searching every forum individually, and when you make use of automated alerts that tell you when something hits, you theoretically have a leg up on the competition, and can fire off a...

Culture and Community: A Recap of San Francisco Windup Watch Fair 2023 Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Fortis Oris May 23, 2023

Culture and Community: A Recap of San Francisco Windup Watch Fair 2023

Though our recent Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco wrapped a few weeks ago, it still feels like yesterday as this was our most ambitious event to date. We had more watch brands than any other Windup. In the form of “EDC Alley”, we had more watch-adjacent brands than ever. We also continued to push the boundaries of what a watch fair can be with one-of-a-kind culture building moments throughout the exciting, long weekend. First and foremost, ​​we’d like to thank everyone who came out to the event, to meet and buy watches, and to help make it a huge success. Our team had the pleasure of speaking with many of you, some of whom traveled from all around the country and even various parts of the world. Bringing all of these unique product enthusiasts under one roof made for a distinctively energetic show, complete with delectable food trucks and sunny California skies. We miss it already. We’d also like to thank all of the brands that chose to participate in the San Francisco Fair, from our distinguished lead sponsors: Accutron, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Oris, and Zodiac to our amazing Key Sponsors: Alpina, Bulova, Citizen, Collective, eBay, Europa Star, Fears, G-SHOCK, Junghans, Maurice LaCroix, and Norqain. Finally, we want to give a special shout out to VERO Watch Company for premiering their first short film called “Katabatic Flight” at the show followed by a live acoustic set by the film’s director Matt Costa, who also scored the film. We also want to th...

Wilbur Watch Co. Introduces the LEO, an Area 51 Inspired Watch with a Unique Jumping Hour Display Worn & Wound
Ming out May 23, 2023

Wilbur Watch Co. Introduces the LEO, an Area 51 Inspired Watch with a Unique Jumping Hour Display

Here at Worn & Wound, we’re all pretty big fans of watches that approach time telling in an unusual way. In our collections you’ll find regulators, watches with offset dials and movements exposed from the front, watches with no numerals or indices at all, and you might even catch a d.m.h jump hour if you spend enough time on our Instagram feeds. The watch we’re looking at today, the LEO by Wilbur Watch Co., actually feels like an evolution of the d.m.h format – it’s a jumping hour mechanism that’s highly complex, but yields a surprisingly intuitive method for reading the time. And it comes in a big, bold package, partially inspired by a fascination with stories of extraterrestrials coming out of Roswell, NM and Area 51. So, you know, just a normal, everyday kind of watch.  At the heart of the LEO is what the brand refers to as the Engine One movement, an automatic, Swiss made caliber, designed by Wilbur Watch Co. Time is told via two discs on either side of the dial, one transparent sapphire, the other aluminum. The discs are each marked with symbols that look like hieroglyphics, which is part of the alien inspiration for the piece. Those symbols are designed to fit together to form numerals, though, as the discs rotate. The hour is read at the dead center of the dial, outlined with a bright blue ring, where the two rings meet. The minutes are read via a rotating ring at the outside of the dial (an arrow right below the hour indicator points to the current min...

Longines remind us why they boast one of the watch world’s most enviable histories Time+Tide
Longines remind us why they May 23, 2023

Longines remind us why they boast one of the watch world’s most enviable histories

The person in charge of Longines’ heritage reissues must have one of the watch world’s cushiest jobs. I always imagine them lazing around for most of the year – playing Wordle and drinking endless cups of coffee. Then, as their annual deadline looms, I picture them hastily thumbing through a dusty catalogue and selecting a … ContinuedThe post Longines remind us why they boast one of the watch world’s most enviable histories appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exclusive: Under the Dial of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Owned May 23, 2023

Exclusive: Under the Dial of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China

As I was examining the Patek Philippe ref. 96QL once owned by the last Emperor of China, I wondered about the state of the movement. The watch is clearly old – it was sold in almost a century ago – and was not running. Phillips wasn’t able to show me the movement on the spot, understandably considering the value of the watch, although they promised they would get me some information shortly. Their response was more than I expected. Taking the form of a forensic report detailing the materials and details of the watch – right down to a X-ray spectrographic analysis of the dial – the information reveals much about the watch. To start with, the spectrograph of the reverse of the dial reveals it is 92.4% silver, 6.94% copper, with the rest comprised of silver and gold. This finally answer the long-ago question posed by Puyi when he tasked his manservant “Big Li” to scrape off the dial’s coating in order to see if it is platinum like the case. It is but a brass dial plated in silver. The analysis of the dial’s back Inside the platinum case is an 11”’ movement that likely began as an ebauche from LeCoultre that was then completed by Victorin Piguet, which produced the simple calendar module on the top. The movement was then likely sent to Patek Philippe, which applied the finishing touches and cased it. The back of the movement is evidently classical, with the flowing bridges that were then the norm in movement design. It is also finished as high-end movemen...

VIDEO: Andrew and Fabrizio break down the new Bulgari Octo Roma and the first-ever Octo Roma chronographs Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Roma May 23, 2023

VIDEO: Andrew and Fabrizio break down the new Bulgari Octo Roma and the first-ever Octo Roma chronographs

The Roman Jeweler of Time is home to many wonderful creations, but, due to the success and milestone records broken within the collection, much of the Bulgari conversation these days revolves around the Octo Finissimo. This year, Bulgari decided they were not having that. It was time to give the OG Octo Roma its due … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Andrew and Fabrizio break down the new Bulgari Octo Roma and the first-ever Octo Roma chronographs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Doxa Honors Novelist and Maritime Explorer, Clive Cussler, in Latest Special Edition Sub 300T Worn & Wound
Doxa Honors Novelist May 22, 2023

Doxa Honors Novelist and Maritime Explorer, Clive Cussler, in Latest Special Edition Sub 300T

It has been almost 50 years since the first time the iconic orange dial Doxa appeared on the wrist of Dirk Pitt in Clive Cussler’s adventure novel series. But the famed novelist and maritime explorer’s connection with Doxa occurred way before the diver was cemented as part of his protagonist’s far-flung adventures. As a budding author, Cussler decided to take a part-time gig at a dive shop; not only because the schedule was ideal for writing, but because he wanted to immerse himself in the diving world to find all sorts of inspiration for his novel’s plots and characters. While simultaneously applying his talents as a previous Creative Director for a prominent LA ad agency to the dive shop’s operation, Cussler worked his way into his first-ever publishing deal. It was then, the owner of the dive shop gifted Cussler a Doxa. Clive Cussler’s son, and an author himself, Dirk Cussler, clarified on stage during a special event hosted by Doxa and Watches of Switzerland at the New York Yacht Club, that his father had his choice of what was in the display case that very day. He fittingly went with an orange dial Doxa Sub 300T and the rest as they say, is history. Clive Cussler’s legacy lives on through his children, the adventures of Dirk Pitt and the efforts of the National Underwater and Marine Agency (NUMA), a non-profit organization he founded that’s dedicated to preserving the history beneath the ocean’s surface. With the new special edition release from Doxa...

Hands-On: The Peculiar Timeless HMS Worn & Wound
May 22, 2023

Hands-On: The Peculiar Timeless HMS

One of the things I love seeing in young watch brands is a strong, original point of view. There is no shortage of great, simple tool and sport watches available from brands new and old, making the space quite difficult to stake a new claim within. Getting off that well trodden path offers the opportunity to explore and express new ideas and flesh out off-genre watches in a manner that grants a new brand some breathing room. This is exactly what the brand Timeless has done with their latest watch, the HMS. This is a watch that defies simple categorization, yet feels genuinely approachable. Timeless has taken a big swing with the HMS, and while it doesn’t connect on every level, there’s plenty to enjoy in the point of view being expressed.  The concept of the HMS was revealed in late 2020, and would go on to take shape over the following year, catching our attention along the way. The HMS is an immediately striking watch that eschews typical genre codes we generally expect to see, and while it struggles to balance the somewhat disparate elements, there’s some genuine charm to the underlying concept that feels rather refreshing. In the short time since its release, the HMS has already taken evolutionary steps, and what we have here is the HMS ref. 003. The HMS is a bit of an eyeful at a glance, with no clear focal point emerging between the ornate detailed structures that comprise the lugs, the case, and the dial, with each of those areas offering plenty of details to...