Latest watch news · Page 181

Every Windup has its share of surprises, and the recently completed New York edition of the fair (in our big 10th anniversary year) was no exception. Something I was definitely not expecting was the newest release from Lorier, the Roosevelt. Lorier is a brand that’s on my personal Mt. Rushmore of microbrands – I just find their watches endlessly charming and Lauren and Lorenzo Ortega are among my favorite people to run into at a watch event. The existence of the Roosevelt itself isn’t so much a surprise, but the way it was presented felt different. Lorier didn’t have a booth at this year’s NYC show, but introduced the watch through their partners at Grand Central Watch, who had a space on the second floor of our venue, showing off the Roosevelt and doing some bracelet adjustments and strap changes on the side. The Roosevelt feels in some ways like a cousin of the Zephyr, Lorier’s Art Deco inspired dress watch from a few years back that felt like a real departure from their midcentury sports watch roots. I was a huge fan of the Zephyr, and remember thinking at the time it could signal an entirely new lane for Lorier to experiment in. Now we get the Roosevelt, which feels like a departure in many of the same, satisfying ways. Inspired by the design of Grand Central Terminal, the Roosevelt is a cushion cased design reminiscent of sports watches from the 1920s. Today, it presents like a dressier piece, but in a lot of ways this watch is very much in line with Lorie...

Twenty years after launching its first watch, British watch brand Christopher Ward seems to be settling into a hard-earned level of maturity. Its latest introduction, the C63 Sealander Extreme GMT, exemplifies everything the brand has learned over the past two decades. It’s an impressive, feature-packed tool watch that combines the brand’s now fully fleshed-out design […] Visit Hot Take: The New Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Extreme GMT to read the full article.

Kommandostore’s Elektronika 55B reissue is a $39 Soviet watch with melody alarms and Casio-like features-affordable and full of retro charm.

Born from the French Ministry of Defence’s Type 20 brief in the mid-1950s, the Type 20 Chronograph watches featured a black dial, a flyback (retour en vol) function, a rotating bezel, and pilot-proof robustness. Alongside fellow suppliers like Breguet, Mathey-Tissot, and Auricoste, Airain’s Type 20 quickly became one of the most recognisable field chronographs. A […]

As the year progresses and new releases continue to shape the horological landscape, Fratello is turning its attention to one of watchmaking’s most enduring genres, the dress watch. Welcome to Fratello Dress Watch Season, a new series that brings together eight of our writers - and you, our readers - to determine which of this […] Visit Fratello Dress Watch Season: The Search for 2025’s Most Elegant Timepiece to read the full article.

Thin and time only, the Vanguard Slim is Franck Muller’s take on a modern dress watch. It’s been reimagined by the brand’s distributor in Mexico, Raconli Group, which tapped Marcos Cojab, an architect who’s also a sculptor working under the moniker Alquimiamc. The result is the Vanguard Alquimiamc clad in bronze – the case and dial are aged bronze, brushed by hand. The 15-piece edition is made up of two variants, one in the familiar Vanguard configuration, and another with a minimalist dial free of numerals. Thanks to the styling and materials, both versions are intriguing designs that depart from the usual Franck Muller style. Initial thoughts The Vanguard Slim is one of Franck Muller’s most appealing current models. While the typical Franck Muller is oversized and sometimes over designed, the Vanguard Slim is the opposite – the curved case is under 10 mm high, giving it an elegant profile, while the dial is cleaner thanks to just two hands. Earlier versions of the Vanguard Slim were already simple, but the Alquimiamc goes even further, with less obvious branding, though the version with numerals is still recognisable as the Vanguard. Instead the Alquimiamc emphasises the texture and shading of the aged bronze, which gives it an unusual appeal. Bronze inside and out The Alquimiamc edition is derived from the Vanguard Slim (also known as the Line Cut), a sleek time-only version of Franck Muller’s bestselling model. While the brand is best known for its ext...

Russell has this theory that Bulgari is the biggest rebel in the entire watchmaking industry. He went to Bulgari to put that to the test.The post Inside Bulgari’s rebellion: how the watch industry’s fastest mover does the impossible appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Another Friday, another list! This week, we’re following up last week’s article about ceramic watches with our favorite titanium ones. After all, it just made sense to dive deeper into the world of modern materials used for watches. While titanium has been around for quite a few decades in the watch world, it’s still considered […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Titanium Watches Of Recent Years - Featuring Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith, And More to read the full article.

Born in the Black Forest and best known for instrument chronographs like the 417 ES and Pioneer series, Hanhart also has a quieter thread that predates its stopwatch fame: the wristwatches of the 1930s (cal. 36/39), valued for clarity and everyday utility. The Silva line infuses that heritage into a modern, time-only series. It is […]

As an NYC native, seeing the middle of October become a New York Watch Week of sorts has been incredible for our US Editor Zach Blass.The post “New York Watch Week” just keeps getting bigger and better appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Richard Lange Jumping Seconds isn’t about showing off, it’s about showing how precise watchmaking can get. Every jump of the seconds hand tells a story of engineering perfection and timeless design. It’s the kind of watch that reminds you why A. Lange & Söhne is one of the brands that sits at the top of the horological world. What We Love Exceptional craftsmanship as always from A. Lange & Söhne. Regulator display offers a unique way of telling time. Watching the seconds hand jump precisely each second is something truly special, especially for a fully mechanical timepiece. The finishing on both the case and movement is second to none, showcasing A. Lange & Söhne’s dedication to perfection. What We Don’t The case thickness remains on the larger side; even with the added function, it could be refined further. Reading the time at a quick glance can be a little tricky due to the regulator-style layout. The watch’s refined, dressy nature means it’s not the most versatile piece for everyday or casual wear. Overall Rating: 8.8/10 Value for money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 9/10 From the moment you strap on the A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds, you can immediately tell that this is no ordinary dress watch, but rather a refined instrument of time. Straight away you can see the level of precision, and the idea that every element of this timepiece as a role and purpose. In the world of horology, where high complications...

Let me ask you a simple question: if you had to choose between a tourbillon and a Gravity Control System, which would you pick? Well, then again, you might require more information before answering my question since the system I mentioned might not be a household name. Therefore, let me introduce the gravity-defying Zenith Defy […] Visit Introducing: The Gravity-Defying Zenith Defy Zero G Sapphire - 46mm Of Transparent Or Blue Sapphire Goodness to read the full article.

World time watches are notoriously imperfect, often out of sync with the realities of daylight savings and partial-hour time zone offsets. Yet their appeal endures thanks to their mechanical ingenuity and jet-set romance. The Richard Mille RM 63-02 Worldtimer stands out in both respects, with a planetary differential that enables the wearer adjust time zones with a simple twist of the bezel. Limited to just 100 pieces, the RM 63-02 offers commanding presence thanks to its 47 mm case in 18k rose gold and titanium, and its bold pink and burgundy colourway. While not a fit for every wrist or every budget, it’s nonetheless more wearable and accessible than expected. Initial thoughts From a strictly practical standpoint, the standard format for world time watches is inherently flawed, as about half the world observes daylight savings time for about half the year, and a fifth of the world’s population lives in time zones with partial-hour offsets. Flaws aside, they capture a certain jet set romance, and are frequently beautiful or clever. Richard Mille’s world timers are the latter, and maybe even the former too, depending on your disposition. The RM 63-02 is clever in its operational and conceptual simplicity, though the actual implementation is quite sophisticated, enabling the user to adjust to local time with a simple turn of the bezel. This functionality is reminiscent of the IWC Timezoner, which was itself based on a patent acquired from Vogard. Richard Mille’s app...

Acclaimed director Francis Ford Coppola, best known for films like The Godfather and Apocalypse Now, is selling the watch that bears his name, the F.P. Journe FFC – it is FFC’s FFC. Mr Coppola’s personal FFC prototype is expected to be the top lot at Phillips’ New York auction taking place in December. The timing of the auction is opportune for Mr Coppola, who funded his latest – and arguably most ambitious – film, Megalopolis by selling a vineyard and then borrowing against his other holdings in the California wine industry. Against a US$120 million budget, Megalopolis grossed only $15 million, and now the legendary director is auctioning off much of his prized watch collection. Initial thoughts Positioned at the top of the F.P. Journe collection alongside the Sonnerie Souveraine and Astronomic Souveraine, each FFC is engraved with the customer’s name. In this case, that name is Francis Ford Coppola. That makes it arguably the FFC to own, even surpassing the unique tantalum example made for Only Watch 2021, which sold for CHF4.5 million. In this context, the estimate of over US$1 million seems conservative. The unique FFC made for Only Watch in 2021. F.P. Journe rarely sells prototypes. Only a handful of the brand’s prototypes have ever emerged for sale publicly, and all of those were originally sold by Mr Journe well before the firm achieved the success it does today. F.P. Journe simply doesn’t need to sell prototypes anymore. The FFC, and Mr Coppola...

In 40mm black ceramic, it's a first for the brand.

It sure is a good time to be a watch enthusiast with smaller wrists, with so many brands finally scaling down popular references, or creating new, slimmer and smaller models to modernize their lineups. Though not explicitly marketed as a more minuscule version of the AquisPro 4000m, Oris’ new AquisPro 1000m dials down the bulkiness of the original for a newer reference that should be more wearable, and still incredibly capable.  When Oris first released the AquisPro 4000m in 2023, it boasted frankly insane water resistance-after all, who aside from the most daring divers are going 4,000 meters down-and a multi-piece titanium case that measured in at a whopping 49.5mm in diameter and about 23mm in thickness. Even as someone who enjoys large watches, that is bordering on unwearable in everyday circumstances, even though it is a fun piece to admire for its brawn and brutish capability. Still, it wore a beautiful ocean blue dial with a wave pattern that signaled its status as an appropriately pretty Oris timepiece, and featured the brand’s Oris Rotation Safety System (ORSS) to keep the bezel locked in place.  The new 1000m version carries forth the titanium construction and 49.5mm case size, but manages to slim down the thickness to a much more wearable 16.6mm. Additional measurements include 55mm lug-to-lug and 26.3mm lug widths, and the multi-piece titanium case is coated in gray PVD. The ORSS returns, too, with a ceramic bezel insert to spice up the familiar blue ...

When discovering new and exciting independent watchmakers, I am often surprised by how many of them come from outside the industry. While many pursue a life and career in engineering, mechanics, and so on, not everyone follows the most obvious path of going to a watchmaking school. The upside of this is that many bring […]

Swatch mixes up a few key elements with its What If? model to note its displeasure with the financial burden faced by Swiss watchmakers exporting to the key U.S. market.

One of the earliest wristwatches created by the modern-day Breguet company was the 3130, way back in 1983. Now for its 250th anniversary, Breguet has continued the lineage with the Classique 7235. Inspired by the historic No. 5 pocket watch, just like the earlier 3130, the 7235 reimagines a Breguet classic with the brand’s new design language that debuted with the first anniversary wristwatch earlier this year. Limited to 250 pieces, the 7235 is powered by a derivative of the same movement found in the 3130, but with one bestowed with several generations worth of technical and decorative upgrades. The calibre is also hand engraved with a 19th century streetscape of Paris that includes Abraham-Louis Breguet’s work on Quai de l’Horloge. The cal. 502.3.DRL in the 7235 Initial thoughts The 7235 is instantly familiar. A staple of Breguet’s catalogue over the years, the asymmetric dial with a power reserve, moon phase, and small seconds is quintessential Breguet in style. But the 7235 is not quite Breguet as it is now known, as while it retains the movement and dial design, it employs the new aesthetic of Breguet’s 250th anniversary line-up. While most will be accustomed to the “Breguet style” of coin-edged case with straight soldered lugs and silvered guilloche dial, the 7235 moves away from that to good effect – yet the 7235 is immediately recognisable as a Breguet. The new design marries the new with the old: the patterned case band is retained, but instead of...

Introducing the Maison Alcée Persée Fantôme Limited Edition For Hodinkee. Part watchmaking course, part clock, the Fantôme invites collectors to assemble, customize, and illuminate 233 finely crafted components into a mechanical clock.

Looking for a watch to match your Halloween costume? Get your spook on with these 9 that range from Gothic and grim to just plain goofy.The post Trick or treat! Here’s 9 of the spookiest watches just in time for Halloween appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Besides their accessible dress watches and fairly-priced yet robust retro-inspired divers, Baltic has long been all about race cars and vintage motorsport competitions (not really a surprise when you know the founders’ passion). The connection between cars and watches is obvious, and Baltic materialised it with several Tour Auto-themed models, the latest in line being […]

Just about a year ago, Christopher Ward released the C60 Trident Lumiere, a dive watch that impressed all of us here at Worn & Wound with its styling, bold lume, and easy wearability. Today, they’ve announced what amounts to a spiritual successor to that watch, and a natural evolution of it, the C63 Sealander GMT. With the new C63 Sealander GMT, Christopher Ward has made their version of a no compromises adventure watch in the vein of Rolex Explorers, Omega Planet Oceans, and the like, with, of course, the practicality of a GMT. If you were intrigued by last year’s Trident Lumiere but are after something that’s maybe a bit more tied to land (or air), the C63 Sealander Extreme GMT might be of interest.  It all starts with a 41mm stainless steel case with Christopher Ward’s signature “light catcher” finishing elements, found most prominently along the lugs. Two dial variants are available at launch, a simple black and a military green, both with grained, matte finishes to bolster the tool watch nature of the piece. Each version features a fixed ceramic bezel in black with a 24 hour scale.  But the real star of the show here is the impressive lume treatment on the dial. Once again, Christopher Ward has tapped their partners at Xenoprint, just steps away from their facility in Biel, to create bold blocks of lume to enhance dial legibility, both during the day and at night. The markers, hands, and even the brand’s logo are made up of solid blocks of Globolight l...

Nivada Grenchen releases limited edition stone dial variations of its popular F77 MKI in the "Last Series".The post Nivada Grenchen sees out the first-generation F77 with a two-tone and stone dial celebration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.