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WristBuzzBrandsGlycine

Glycine

Creator of the Airman GMT, the 1953 24-hour pilot's watch worn by Vietnam-era US Air Force pilots and adopted as a cult travel-watch grail. Founded in 1914 in Bienne and acquired in 2016 by Invicta, Glycine continues to build the Airman family alongside the Combat Sub diver and the Incursore military-style chronograph.

Founded1914
HeadquartersBienne, Switzerland
FounderEugène Meylan
ParentInvicta Watch Group (since 2016)
WristBuzz Articles8
Glycine

Photo: Worn & Wound · Oct 25, 2024

1914Founded
1953Airman debut
24-hourGMT layout
VietnamUSAF Heritage
8WristBuzz Articles

The Glycine Story

Eugène Meylan founded Glycine in Bienne in 1914 as a producer of small mechanical wristwatches with finely-finished Swiss movements - an early adopter of the wristwatch format at a time when most Swiss makers were still focused on pocket watches. Through the inter-war and post-war decades the brand built a reputation for chronometer-grade precision and produced wristwatches with platinum and gold cases for the dress segment.

In 1953 Glycine launched the Airman, designed to address a specific request from Pan Am pilots who needed to track home time alongside local time during long-haul flights. The Airman used a 24-hour dial with the hour hand making one revolution per day rather than two, and a rotating bezel marked in 24-hour increments allowed reading a second time zone. The watch was adopted by US Air Force pilots through the 1950s and 1960s and saw heavy use in Vietnam, where the unusual 24-hour layout became associated with American military aviation. The Airman is a true GMT-style travel watch predating the Rolex GMT-Master by one year.

Glycine continued to operate independently through the late 20th century, producing the Combat military-style watch and Incursore vintage-styled mechanicals alongside the continuously-produced Airman. In 2016 the brand was acquired by Invicta Watch Group, the American owner of Invicta and other mid-tier brands. Under Invicta the catalogue has expanded with multiple Airman variants in different sizes (36, 42, 46mm), a Combat Sub dive collection, and ongoing Incursore production. Movements are largely Swiss ETA / Sellita with selected COSC chronometer references.

Iconic Collections

Since 1953
Airman
The 24-hour GMT pilot's watch. Available in 36, 42, 44, and 46mm cases with the signature 24-hour main dial and bidirectional 24-hour bezel for second time zone. Sellita SW330 GMT or ETA 2893 movements; selected COSC variants. The brand's defining and most-collected reference.
Since 2010s
Combat Sub
The modern dive collection. 42-46mm steel cases with 200-300m water resistance, unidirectional rotating bezel, and Sellita SW200 automatic. The accessible-priced tool diver in the Glycine lineup.
Since 2010s
Incursore
The vintage-military aesthetic line. 44mm cases with patina-style dials, blackened steel finishes, and military-inspired hands. References mid-century military and field watch design.
Recent
Airman Vintage
Direct heritage reissue references. 38-40mm cases with closer dimensional fidelity to the original 1953 Airman, including the 'Purist' variant with no logo on the dial.
Recent
Airman Worldtime
World-time variant with cities printed around the dial perimeter, allowing simultaneous reading of multiple time zones at a glance. Larger 46mm case with the worldtime city ring rotating around the 24-hour main display.
Heritage
Combat (vintage)
The original Combat military line dates to the 1950s and is occasionally referenced in modern releases. Field-watch styling with white-on-black numerals and matte cases.

Heritage Timeline

1914
Eugène Meylan founds Glycine in Bienne, producing dress mechanical wristwatches.
1953
The Airman launches with a 24-hour dial and rotating bezel for tracking a second time zone.
1960s-70s
The Airman becomes a cult watch among US Air Force pilots during the Vietnam War era.
1990s-2000s
Combat military-style and Incursore vintage mechanical lines expand the catalogue.
2016
Invicta Watch Group acquires Glycine; Swiss production continues.
2020s
Airman family expands across 36-46mm sizes and the Worldtime variant joins the lineup.

Latest Glycine News

Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: A Bulova with Military Provenance, a Glycine in Great Condition, and a Classic LeCoultre Memovox
Oct 25, 2024
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: A Classic from Glycine, an Uncommon Omega with an Alarm, and a Benrus with the Full Kit
Sep 20, 2024
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1971 Audemars Piguet Automatic In White Gold, A 1960s Glycine Airman, And A 1964 Rolex Datejust In Yellow Gold
Sep 16, 2021
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A New Old Stock Glycine Airman, An Exciting Blancpain Cyclotron, And A Compelling Rolex Sea-Dweller
Sep 25, 2020
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Glycine Combat Sub Review
Jan 14, 2020
Hodinkee
Found: A Pair Of Sterile-Dial Glycine Airman Watches Sold At Naval Supplier Kroesen's
May 14, 2019
Two Broke Watch Snobs
8 New Glycine Airman Models Introduced on Massdrop
Jul 27, 2018
Deployant
Modestly priced watches: Glycine Airman Airfighter
Sep 14, 2014
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