Ming Thein is a Malaysian professional photographer, designer, and former editor who founded Ming Watch in Kuala Lumpur in 2017. His background was in medium-format photography and commercial design; Thein was also a long-time watch writer and editor (at Hasselblad's magazine, at Watch Dossier, and on his own blog). The transition to watchmaking was deliberate: Thein had spent years reviewing watches as a professional critic and had developed specific views on what a design-led microbrand could offer.
The brand's signature is the sapphire dial, a transparent or tinted sapphire disc with minimal printing, showing the movement architecture through it. The 17.01 (2017) was the launch reference: a 38mm cushion-round case, sapphire dial with laser-etched hour indices, ETA 2892-2 automatic movement with visible architecture. Subsequent references have explored different case geometries (cushion, tonneau, tank-style), movement bases (initially ETA, later Schwarz Etienne SE-CM01 manufacture calibre), and dial configurations (transparent, tinted, fumé). Every release carries the minimal 'Ming' type in a single line on the dial and the collection-specific numerical reference.
Ming's sales model is unusual. Releases are announced on Instagram and the brand's website with a few days' notice and are limited to specific batch sizes (typically 150-400 pieces per colourway). Sales happen through the website only, with orders processed in order of receipt. Every release since 2017 has been oversubscribed; typical sellout time is 2-15 minutes. There is no retailer network, no physical stores, no dealer system. The brand runs entirely on the founder's own communication channels.
The collection has grown to include the 17 Series (three-hand, cushion case, most accessible, ~CHF 2,000-4,000), the 20 Series (GMT and tourbillon tonneau, ~CHF 5,000-30,000), the 27 Series (flying tourbillon with cathedral-arch architecture, CHF 30,000-60,000), and the 37 Series (dress references, ~CHF 3,000-6,000). Annual production is small; by 2024 Ming had shipped approximately 3,000-4,000 watches globally. The secondary market places most Ming references at 2x to 5x retail; the rarer tourbillon references trade at multi-hundred-thousand CHF levels. Ming Thein remains sole owner and personally approves every design and movement specification.
