Watch brandsWatch wikiWatch videosVariousWatch calendarSaved articles
PopularRolexOmegaPatek PhilippeAudemars PiguetTudorGrand SeikoCartierSeikoIWCTAG HeuerBreitlingJaeger-LeCoultreA. Lange & SohneZenith

Results for AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants)

3,374 articles · 37 videos found · page 10 of 114

Photo Report: Inside Hermès Horloger Manufacture Hodinkee
Hermes Jun 9, 2026

Photo Report: Inside Hermès Horloger Manufacture

We've all been told at least once in life to stick to our own lane. It's an old trope that historically holds merit. Stick to one discipline, master it, and you'll succeed. But in 2026, the rulebook has changed in almost every aspect of life, and sometimes those one-trick ponies aren't the ones leading the charge; they're actually left in the stable. La Montre Hermès S.A in Brugg, Switzerland. In watchmaking, it transpires that the latest crop of brands to realize this are the names we most associate with being wider fashion houses. Empires sustained by hand-stitching legacy into cloth, amplified in the theatre of the catwalk, now play in the watchmaking arena. We've witnessed many of these names turn to watchmaking as an additional arm to their already bulletproof name, and crucially, they're delivering watches with real merit. For Hermès, despite having a presence in watchmaking since the early 20th century, with Universal Genève as the brand's watchmaking partner from the 1930s and the production of exclusively Hermès-signed pieces such as desk clocks, this rise has been built brick by brick since the 1970s. Outfitting horses came first, then their riders, and it quickly proved that true luxury comes from mastery, not scale. During the 1970s, the maison decided to build schools to train artisans the Hermès way, passing along hand-stitching, leather cutting, and scarf-printing techniques from master to apprentice. While other names pursued mass production or outsour...

As Long as There is Light: A First-Hand Deep Dive on Citizen’s Eco-Drive Technology Worn & Wound
Citizen s Eco-Drive Technology Jun 1, 2026

As Long as There is Light: A First-Hand Deep Dive on Citizen’s Eco-Drive Technology

In the horological sphere, we associate the 1970s with the quartz crisis, but there was a more significant threat facing the world at large: an energy crisis. Oil consumption was reaching an all-time high with widespread international travel and car ownership becoming more prevalent and mainstream. Simultaneously, domestic oil production was dwindling in many countries, increasing pressure on imports. The situation reached a crisis when OPEC (the Organization of Petroleum Exporting Countries) imposed an oil embargo in 1973. So, getting back to watches – you’re probably wondering, what’s the connection? Like the United States, Japan was one of the countries impacted by this energy crisis. In response, Citizen Watch Company established an internal initiative to work toward developing a more sustainable and eco-friendly power source for its timepieces. In short order, the brand looked toward solar cell technology and had developed its own light-powered prototype by 1974. Two years later in 1976, we saw the world’s first light-powered analog watch, the Crystron Solar Cell. This technology would later come to be called Eco-Drive and celebrates its 50th anniversary in 2026. You’ve probably already read about the flagship anniversary Eco-Drive model covered by our own Zach Kazan at its launch earlier this year, but this spring, in peak cherry blossom season, Citizen opened the doors of its manufacture for the first time in years to pull back the curtain on just how the ...

Richemont Financial Results Show U.S. Market Resilience As Middle East Sales Hit By War Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre May 22, 2026

Richemont Financial Results Show U.S. Market Resilience As Middle East Sales Hit By War

Richemont's annual financial results and executive commentary showed continued strength in the U.S. market for the Swiss luxury conglomerate's watches and jewelry despite rising consumer prices and economic fallout from the war with Iran. At the same time, sales in the Middle East, particularly the United Arab Emirates have declined since the conflict began in late February. Richemont Chairman Johann Rupert. "It is, at times, truly surreal, but the US economy, the metrics are still looking better than many other economies," Johann Rupert, Richemont's chairman, said on a call with media following the release of the company's annual financial results. Richemont said sales in the Americas rose 17% from the year before and increased by double digits in both watches and jewelry at constant exchange rates during the company's fiscal year ended in March. Richemont, which owns brands including Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and A. Lange & Söhne,  said sales in the region increased by 18% in the fourth quarter of its fiscal year compared to the same period a year earlier. "Looking ⁠ahead, uncertainty is likely to persist, not least in relation to developments in the Middle East," Rupert said. While U.S. sales stayed resilient, Richemont brands selling in the United Arab Emirates, particularly in Dubai, suffered declining sales and foot traffic in stores because of the war. While Abu Dhabi has shown signs of recovery, "in Dubai, they are more reserved, and y...

Business News: Watches And Wonders Attendance Climbs Despite Geo-Politics And Economic Challenges As Brands Make Case For Value Hodinkee
Ming Apr 30, 2026

Business News: Watches And Wonders Attendance Climbs Despite Geo-Politics And Economic Challenges As Brands Make Case For Value

The watches that prove commercial and collector successes emerging from Watches and Wonders 2026 will have climbed a wall of worry. There was plenty to fret over heading into the watch industry's largest and most important annual salon this year. The eruption of war in the Middle East challenged travel plans and clouded the outlook for visitors from the region and beyond. Indeed, sales have certainly been impacted in the Middle East, and the question remains how quickly stability might return.The existing bugbears of the watch sector – rising input costs from raw materials, including record gold values, ongoing U.S. tariffs, not to mention the continued strength of the Swiss franc, as well as years of retail price increases – remained omnipresent. All told, these factors could have set the stage for a subdued, cautious event. Instead, the industry converged in Geneva, striking an optimistic and inclusive tone where it worked hard to show it's been paying attention to the demands of clients and customers with new watches that drove home a theme of demonstrating value in often, but not always, familiar packages. With public-facing events including Montreaux Jazz concerts in the Geneva city center, Watches and Wonders emphasized its role as a cultural tent pole for the industry and the Swiss watchmaking region, aiming to be more open and welcoming. The new, more public-oriented strategy certainly paid off as attendance jumped to nearly 60,000 unique visitors, a record for...

Business News: Breitling’s House Of Brands Unveils New Executive Leadership With Georges Kern As Group CEO Hodinkee
Roger Dubuis Apr 22, 2026

Business News: Breitling’s House Of Brands Unveils New Executive Leadership With Georges Kern As Group CEO

'House of Brands,' the group of watchmakers including Breitling, Universal Genéve, and the soon-to-be-revived Gallet, announced executive changes that will see the flagship brand led by new leadership, with Georges Kern becoming the group's Chief Executive Officer. Jean-Marc Pontroué, a long-time Richemont executive and the former CEO of Panerai and Roger Dubuis, is the new Chief Executive Officer of Breitling, the group says in a statement. The changes take effect in May.  Georges Kern Georges Kern, who has led Breitling under new ownership since 2017, overseeing a more than doubling of annual sales to above CHF 800 million, according to analyst estimates, and one of the most dramatic turnarounds in modern watchmaking, becomes the new CEO of the House of Brands, overseeing the three marques and their leadership in a newly created role.At Universal Genève, which relaunched this month in the high-end segment in what's likely the most ambitious watch brand return and repositioning in decades, Grégory Bruttin remains Managing Director. Meanwhile, at Gallet, the approachable-priced brand known for its Flying Officer and Multichron models, to be revived in August this year, Erwan Rossignol, who is already leading the team preparing the relaunch, becomes Managing Director. The changes confirm the multi-brand ambitions of the private-equity-backed Grenchen, Switzerland-based company, and provide a structure similar to that of other groups with portfolios of several watch bra...

Franc Vila’s FVF2 Time & Day is Quirky Haute Horlogerie SJX Watches
Apr 10, 2026

Franc Vila’s FVF2 Time & Day is Quirky Haute Horlogerie

FVF Genève’s second model after the FVF1 skeleton tourbillon, the FVF2 Intrepido Time & Day is a more concise and accessible watch. It’s essentially a familiar formula – time (plus day) and a hand-finished manual wind movement – the FVF2 nonetheless manages to stand out thanks to brand founder Franc Vila’s eye for design. Pictured here with a black mother of pearl dial, part of a five-piece edition, the FVF2 has a pleasing asymmetry. The movement is composed of intriguing geometric forms and quirky details like the square winding click, while also being traditionally decorated with generous bevelling and black polishing. The case is an unusual “unibody” construction where the base plate and case middle are one and the same Initial thoughts The FVF2 might seem like yet another time-only watch with a fancily decorated movement, and it is just that, but not quite. Its creator, Franc Vila, is an industry veteran rather than a newcomer, and is now making a comeback after rising and falling with his original brand some two decades ago. Unlike many recent calibres that try to do more with more, the FVF2 movement is more minimalist but has a recognisable style and artful details. The calibre is characterised by geometric forms that encompass finer elements like the winding click, while also retaining a clear classical bent with the prominent going train and finishing. The treatment for the titanium base plate requires superheated gases to create an oxide layer on t...

Titanium and Fresh Colorways Collide as Straum Expands Its Jan Mayen Arctic Collection with a New Limited Edition Capsule and Permanent Pieces Worn & Wound
Straum Apr 2, 2026

Titanium and Fresh Colorways Collide as Straum Expands Its Jan Mayen Arctic Collection with a New Limited Edition Capsule and Permanent Pieces

Today, two of Straum’s core concepts come alive in a new twist on the Jan Mayen Arctic collection, now in titanium for the first time in addition to stainless steel. The four original colors, in both titanium and stainless steel, now become part of the brand’s permanent catalog. Plus, there’s the debut of an entirely new dial colorway. Last year, we saw the expansion of the brand’s offerings with the classic Jan Mayen design rendered in lightweight titanium as well as the unveiling of four thoughtful and stunning Arctic dials. By now, you probably well know I’m a sucker for a mesmerizing dial design, especially one with a story and deeper meaning behind it. The brand’s limited edition capsules of Arctic dials tick all those boxes. The inspiration draws from Straum’s Norwegian roots with a subtle and abstract interpretation of the country’s natural beauty through intentional use of texture and color to elicit the feeling of the landscape rather than something too literal. We’ve previously seen four editions, each handsome in their own right: one reflecting the bold hues of the Aurora sky; one called Alpine Glow, fading from the crisp blue frost of the mountains fading to a light pink sunset; Meltwater Teal, which quite literally mimics a waterfall cascading down the dial thanks to the perfect execution of ombre white to teal; and lastly, the most understated among the bunch called Tundra Brown with a bronze tone. In addition to a new metal – swapping tit...

The Petrolhead Corner - Three-in-a-Row For Porsche, As The Penske Factory Team Wins The Rolex 24 At Daytona 2026 Monochrome
Rolex 24 Jan 31, 2026

The Petrolhead Corner - Three-in-a-Row For Porsche, As The Penske Factory Team Wins The Rolex 24 At Daytona 2026

It seems like a trend that endurance races are won with only seconds between the podium finishers. We’ve seen it in this year’s Dakar, where Luciano Benavides won the Bikes class with just two seconds difference over second-place man Ricky Brabec. We’ve seen it in last year’s Rolex 24 at Daytona, where the entire podium […]

Hands-on - The SPB519, The Updated Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver GMT That Does It All Monochrome
Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver Jul 9, 2025

Hands-on - The SPB519, The Updated Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver GMT That Does It All

Seiko‘s dive watch legacy is long and rich, yet surprisingly, a mechanical diver with a GMT complication only joined the catalogue in 2023. The SPB381/383and SPB385 laid the groundwork with their “caller GMT x Diver” design, and earlier this year, the SPB509 brought meaningful improvements, including 300m water resistance and a micro-adjustable clasp, wrapped in […]

Audemars Piguet’s New Ceramic is the Same Hue as the Royal Oak 5402 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet s New Ceramic Apr 16, 2025

Audemars Piguet’s New Ceramic is the Same Hue as the Royal Oak 5402

“Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” was the colour code for the original Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 5402 ST of 1972, and now Audemars Piguet has translated the dark blue shade into its latest ceramic. Making its debut in three Royal Oak models, including the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked, the “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” ceramic is restrained and a departure from the bright, almost electric blue of the brand’s earlier blue ceramic. Initial thoughts Ceramic is a material that lends itself well to the Royal Oak design; the brushed and polished surfaces that are the trademark Royal Oak surface finishing look good with the hardness and glossiness of ceramic. The earlier bright blue ceramic used by AP was too bright in my opinion. The new dark blue hue, on the other hand, feels just nice. The downside of an all-ceramic Royal Oak is the price. The Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph with a matching ceramic bracelet costs almost US$90,000, double the price of the steel equivalent and almost as much as the gold model. According to AP, the cost is primarily due to the difficult in finishing the ceramic – every element of the case and bracelet is brushed or polished by hand – which is true, but it’s still expensive. The most affordable model with the new ceramic only has its bezel and pushers in ceramic ” Night blue” According to AP, “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” (which translates as “night blue, cloud 50”) was the code for the dark blue, almost grey, in the catalogue of Stern...

Buying Guide - A Selection of Enamel Watches Using Rare Techniques such as Cloisonné, Champlevé or Flinqué Monochrome
Mar 2, 2025

Buying Guide - A Selection of Enamel Watches Using Rare Techniques such as Cloisonné, Champlevé or Flinqué

Enameling is one of the oldest decorative techniques, invented over 4,000 years ago and used, for example, in Mesopotamia and then Egypt. Surprisingly enough, the earliest enamel all used the cloisonné technique, known to be one of the most complex techniques currently in use. Under the word enamel, at least in watchmaking and decorative techniques, […]

My Year in Watches: Evolving as a Watch Writer Worn & Wound
Dec 27, 2024

My Year in Watches: Evolving as a Watch Writer

Just over a year and a half ago, I began writing for Worn & Wound. According to my author’s page, that has amassed a total of 14 pages worth of content – totalling, by my best estimation, around 110 articles I have done for the site. It’s hard to believe that I have that sort of library to look back upon. This is mostly due to the fact that, in June of 2023, I would have told you I didn’t know a damn thing about watches. Just a short eighteen months ago, if you would have asked me what a tourbillon was, I would have answered a fish that pairs well with citrus. Other than thinking of a watch as an accessory, I never gave them much thought – let alone the entire industry. I think, if you were to read back on those early articles, you could see this. I was, at best, timid – afraid to offend a brand or the Worn & Wound community. And, at worst, I was a fraud. And sidling in between those two poles of my own self-doubt, I would sit at my desk to parse a press release and convey whatever information I could gather to you, the reader, in the hope that you would believe in me as a watch writer.  It wasn’t until this last year that that began to change. Practice makes perfect, they say, and I think if you do anything long enough you can get a handle on it. For me, the shift came when I stopped writing about what I thought readers would want to know and actually began paying attention to the market, and by extension the community, at large. I began to think of the wat...

My Year in Watches: Community as the Center of Enthusiasm Worn & Wound
Tudor Dec 24, 2024

My Year in Watches: Community as the Center of Enthusiasm

It’s a sneaky secret, but the truth is everyone in the watch world occasionally gets a little tired of watches. Okay, I can’t speak for everyone, and ‘tired’ might be the wrong word, but anyone who has ever worked in an enthusiast field would probably tell you that balancing your own enthusiasm with a professional life can be a tricky thing. Enthusiasm itself is not a boundless resource, and sometimes you can find yourself in need of a cool-down period (something Nathan Schultz described beautifully here). Coming into 2024, I had no idea this year would be one of those cool-down periods (it can be hard to notice one while it’s happening) but looking back at the last twelve months, it’s hard to deny the characterization. It’s not that I love watches any less than I did last year, it’s just that, as I wade deeper into the watch universe, my own collecting has taken a backseat. Going into 2023, I made a conscious decision I wouldn’t buy any watches. Instead, I would save up and make one big purchase at the end of the year. Then I got to March, bought a G-Shock, and opened the floodgates. So when Zach asked me to put a New Year’s Resolution on paper back in January of this year, I went the other way, stating with intention that this would be a buying year and that I would likely end the year with a Tudor, a NOMOS, or both. Instead, I’m ending the 2024 calendar year having bought just three watches, none of which cost more than $110 dollars. I’ve been wh...

The Petrolhead Corner - 55 Years After Its Debut As A Concept Car, The Bertone Runabout Enters Production Monochrome
Nov 30, 2024

The Petrolhead Corner - 55 Years After Its Debut As A Concept Car, The Bertone Runabout Enters Production

Few design institutions have left such a lasting mark on automotive design than Bertone. Just going through the studio’s palmares reveals some absolute masterpieces. The Alfa Romeo B.A.T. series, the Lamborghini Marzal, and the Lancia Stratos Zero, for instance. And those are just design studies, concept cars that would influence production cars further down the […]

First Look - A US Army Commissioned Wristwatch Gets a Remake as the Titoni Airmaster Pilot Chronometer Monochrome
Nov 28, 2024

First Look - A US Army Commissioned Wristwatch Gets a Remake as the Titoni Airmaster Pilot Chronometer

Titoni is an independent family-owned watch brand founded in 1919 by Fritz Schluep in Grenchen, Switzerland, now in the hands of great-grandsons Marc and Olivier Schluep. With a variety of contemporary collections and even an in-house automatic powering its Line 1919 dress watch collection, the genuine interest in this brand resides in its remakes of […]

Teased at Geneva Watch Days, the Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Chronograph Makes its Big Debut with the New “Salm0n” Dial Worn & Wound
H. Moser & Cie he probably Sep 15, 2024

Teased at Geneva Watch Days, the Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Chronograph Makes its Big Debut with the New “Salm0n” Dial

During the global pandemic lockdowns, many people found themselves with more free time. Some chose to learn how to make sourdough bread, some indulged in playing video games, and others channeled their creativity into new endeavors. Richard Benc was one of those creative people, and we are pretty sure that if you asked him in 2019 if he had “become a mega-successful watch brand owner” on his bingo card, he would have likely laughed at you. If you told him that one of his most sought-after watches would feature a pizza dial and that the same company would eventually partner with the prestigious watch manufacturer H. Moser & Cie, he probably would have just walked away from the conversation. However, this is precisely what happened-the additional time allowed Richard to think he could bring new life to the watch industry with some fun and a lot of whimsy. With the support of the Facebook community and positive encouragement, his Watermel0n watch was created and became an immediate success. It arrived at a time when everyone needed something to brighten their day, and his cheerfully colorful design was just what the doctor ordered. Since then, there have been many other color iterations and new models. However, Richard learned that to gain credibility as a watch company, a salmon dial watch was essential, and in typical Studio Underd0g fashion, he subverted this idea. Introducing the Studio Underd0g Salm0n, part of their brand new 03SERIES. Unlike typical salmon-dialed ...

Holthinrichs Announces their New Haute Horlogerie Project Worn & Wound
Holthinrichs Announces their New Haute Aug 6, 2024

Holthinrichs Announces their New Haute Horlogerie Project

Earlier this year, when Dutch independent brand Holthinrichs announced their new Signature Collection, we thought it was one of the most impressive new projects in indie watchmaking. It represented a bold shift for the brand, moving from complex, bespoke watchmaking to something more easily repeatable and at a more approachable price point. With advances in manufacturing capabilities, the new and less expensive Signature Collection actually represents a vision of watchmaking far closer to what brand founder Michiel Holthinrichs had always intended. It was, and remains, an exciting story for fans of the brand, but after seeing Holthinrichs steadily create watches that are more and more ambitious in recent years, we’ve kept hope alive that the brand hadn’t completely abandoned their goals of creating something truly high end and in-house.  Now, on the heels of the Signature Collection comes word of a new project within Holthinrichs that would appear to fill the void of truly high end watchmaking that was left when the brand transitioned to their new model. Holthinrichs Haute Horlogerie provides an outlet for the brand’s most ambitious ideas, and the first watch under this new banner, the Ornament Nouveau, is unlike anything they’ve attempted previously.  Like every watch Holthinrichs has made, the defining characteristic of the new piece is its sculptural design. But with the Ornament Nouveau, those ideas have been manifested not just in the case and dial design, b...

The Parmigiani Tonda PF Does Away with the Date SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier Apr 9, 2024

The Parmigiani Tonda PF Does Away with the Date

At Watches & Wonders 2024, Parmigiani Fleurier is launching the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date, a concise sports watch clearly catered to those who want just two hands. Featuring a “Golden Siena” (or “salmon”) dial in its inaugural guise, the new Tonda PF barely deviates from the design of the original released in 2021, retaining the same case, proportions, and movement, but eliminates the date. Initial thoughts Among the sports watches launched during the integrated-bracelet-sports-watch fad, the Tonda PF stood out for its unique aesthetics that are neither boring nor flashy. While many of its competitors were often obvious derivatives of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, the Tonda PF was more original and managed to retain some of the traditional design codes of Parmigiani’s more formal watches. From a distance, it is challenging to tell the difference between the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date and the original. In fact, the only real difference lies in the dial design and colour. Although the differences are minimal, the salmon dial with a no-date layout offers a more refined aesthetic that will appeal to purists. At CHF23,500, the watch is priced the same as the date version and like it, is a decent-enough value proposition. Though it seems expensive when compared to more affordable alternatives like the Louis Vuitton Tambour or Moser Streamliner, the Tonda PF is more affordable than the Royal Oak or a Nautilus (which are mostly unobtaina...

Certina Enters the Affordable Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Arena with the New DS-7 Powermatic 80 Worn & Wound
Certina Enters Oct 30, 2023

Certina Enters the Affordable Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Arena with the New DS-7 Powermatic 80

The affordable integrated bracelet sports watch wars have been waged on multiple fronts for many months at this point, and now, in a surprising development to some, they’ve hit the Swatch Group in a major way. Since its introduction, the Tissot PRX has been the standard bearer in the value driven integrated bracelet sports watch market, offering a huge variety of dial colors, sizes, and movement options at a price point that makes them compelling for collectors curious to try out what is undoubtedly still the hottest variety of sporty watch in the greater horological landscape. But now, a new challenger has emerged from within, with the introduction of Certina’s DS-7 Powermatic 80. Certina, at least in the United States, is frequently overlooked, as the brand doesn’t have significant distribution here, but they hold a key spot in the Swatch Group’s roster of brands on the more affordable side of the spectrum, and the new integrated offering here is an interesting and subtle contrast with the vaunted PRX.  The PRX is notable for its highly angular case shape, inspired by a distinctly 1980s design language. Particularly in quartz variants, it feels decidedly retro while still giving more than a whiff of Royal Oak if you just give it a quick glance. The DS-7 as seen here is a very different animal, with a much softer and rounder case shape and bracelet integration. If the PRX conjures the 1980s, the DS-7 feels more like a 1970s throwback, particularly considering som...