Hodinkee
Introducing: Zenith Teams Up With Kari Voutilainen And Phillips To Bring Its Historic Caliber 135-O Back To Life
The reborn Zenith Caliber 135 Observatoire is a limited edition of 10 pieces, available exclusively through Phillips.
Results for Caliber MT5813
5,495 articles · 510 videos found · page 10 of 201
Hodinkee
Time+Tide
Six months later: Am I still in love with my Grand Seiko SBGM247?
Recently, I’ve made a habit of fantasising about forever watches in my collection. It’s something I feel should exist at the core of every collector, regardless of what they collect. I find the thought of owning something for so long that it becomes synonymous with you classically romantic. Yet, I’d be remiss in not acknowledging … ContinuedThe post Six months later: Am I still in love with my Grand Seiko SBGM247? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Repeater Ceramic
Having unveiled a series of integrated-bracelet watches in candy-coloured ceramic at Watches & Wonders 2022, Hublot has followed up with a “high complication” in ceramic, the Big Bang Integral Cathedral Minute Repeater Ceramic. While complicated watches in end-to-end ceramic already exist, striking watches in ceramic are rare, with only Hublot and Audemars Piguet having made such watches. The Big Bang Integral is novel for combining both a tourbillon and repeater, one with longer-than-usual cathedral gongs in fact. And it manages to be water resistant in contrast to most striking watches that are merely moisture-proof, due to the challenge of sealing the slide while allowing maximum sound transmission. Initial thoughts The latest Big Bang Integral perfectly encapsulates Hublot as a brand, illustrating its strengths (and a few weaknesses). It’s powered by a complex, in-house movement contained matched with a case and bracelet that showcases the brand’s proficiency with unusual materials – all of which is possible thanks to the brand’s expansive yet agile manufacture. In typical Hublot fashion, the watch is loud – visually rather than acoustically – even in black. It looks like a Hublot, and the brand has essentially only one aesthetic. It has a technical, modern aesthetic that goes well with the open dial, a feature that’s uncommon in minute repeaters but useful since it reveals the entirety of the strikework. At almost US$300,000, the Tourbillon Repeat...
SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces the Caliber 0200 “Japanese Armor”
A year ago, Citizen debuted its first all new, high-end mechanical watch in decades, The Citizen Caliber 0200. A wristwatch par excellence, the Caliber 0200 was so good that it was one of our tops watches of 2021. Now Citizen is following up with the Caliber 0200 “Japanese Armour”, the first limited edition of the model that’s available globally. Topped with a black ceramic bezel and textured dial, the samurai-inspired Caliber 0200 has a low-key aesthetic that still distinguishes it from the all-steel models. Initial thoughts Even though production hasn’t yet caught up with demand – there’s still a waiting list for the watch – the Caliber 0200 is still a niche product, just because it is a high-end, mechanical offering from a brand better known for its solar-powered or quartz watches, and mostly affordable ones at that. So a limited edition makes sense, since the small run will boost desirability and create buzz worldwide (Citizen did launch a 50-piece limited edition last year that was sold only in Japan). That said, the new edition is still very much a restrained design that’s almost monochromatic. It’ll be one of those watches that are recognised only by those in the know. Interestingly, both the new limited edition and the standard model stick to the same palette – grey, silver, and black – with the difference between the two being the quantity and intensity of each colour. On the limited edition, black becomes the dominant colour thanks to the ...
SJX Watches
Highlights: George Daniels and Ralph Ellison at Phillips’ New York Auction
While the most high profile lot at Phillips’ upcoming New York sale is surely the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-018 made for the 170th anniversary of Tiffany & Co., there are a handful more watches in the sale that are notable for different reasons. One is unquestionably the tourbillon pocket watch George Daniels made for Edward Hornby in 1971 for its sheer horological merit. And another notable watch sits at the opposite end of the spectrum in terms of horological quality – it’s a standard Omega Speedmaster Moon Watch – but it is historically important, having been owned by Ralph Ellison, the novelist best known for Invisible Man. The 2021 New York Watch Auction takes place on December 11 1 (lots 1-81) and December 12 (lots 82-165) at 432 Park Avenue, New York. The rest of the catalogue is available here. Lot 102: George Daniels The Edward Hornby Tourbillon Pocket Watch One of eight similar watches, all equipped with a one-minute tourbillon, this was made in 1971 for Edward Hornby, a lawyer who collected watches. Made during the period of 1969 to 1973, the eight watches were the first of Daniels’ own creations. Almost all were made for English collectors, save for one that Daniels made for his daughter, Sarah Jane, and another for German chemist Thomas Engel. Named after its first owner like all the other watches in the series of eight, the Hornby watch is typical Daniels, and consequently, also very much Breguet in style. Entirely hand made by Daniels,...
Video
New Chopard L.U.C Grand Strike: The most complex watch the brand has ever made
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Horage Supersede aims to deliver unprecedented value with new K2 micro-rotor GMT caliber
With hope on the horizon, and borders hopefully beginning to open, the relevance of GMT and world timer complications is bit by bit returning. Heck, if you are like me, a part of an international team, than the GMT complication does come in handy even now when coordinating Zoom calls. Regardless of circumstance, it is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Horage Supersede aims to deliver unprecedented value with new K2 micro-rotor GMT caliber appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing the Spring Drive’s Next Generation: The 5 Days Caliber 9RA2
Grand Seiko launches the next generation of their Spring Drive movement with the 5 Days Caliber 9RA2 fitted into two limited edition timepieces that are inspired by nature.
Time+Tide
Gone but not forgotten – a love letter to the Tudor North Flag
Tudor's MT5621 movement finds a home in a completely new reference called the North Flag, inspired by the Oyster Prince and the Ranger.The post Gone but not forgotten – a love letter to the Tudor North Flag appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Available in the Shop: IWC GST Chrono Rattrapante
Made between 2001 and 2004, the IWC GST Rattrapante had a short production run but the example here is one of the most sought-after references within the family.
Quill & Pad
WatchBox Commentary On Hodinkee Takeover Of Crown & Caliber And State Of The Pre-Owned Market
In 2020/2021, the pre-owned landscape has experienced a seismic shift called consolidation, led by the acquisition of online vintage and pre-owned dealer Analog/Shift by Watches of Switzerland in late 2020 and more recently Hodinkee purchasing Crown & Caliber. Elizabeth Doerr converses with pre-owned watch specialist WatchBox's CEO Justin Reis for views on the Hodinkee takeover and the current pre-owned market.
Video
Sinn no longer makes one of their coolest watches, so Milifortic made one!! ML111 unboxing!!!
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Chronographs powered by in-house AP caliber 4401
We all know the “Holy Trinity” manufacturers can be called out at times for being on the slower side when it comes to product evolution. To be honest, that’s for a good reason, too. The pursuit towards perfection has to be careful and calculated, and each of the brands have to ensure their watches live … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Chronographs powered by in-house AP caliber 4401 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The Citizen Mechanical: debuting a new caliber 0200. Hands-on review.
Presenting full details and hands-on with The Citizen mechanical model features the newly-developed Caliber 0200 mechanical movement. This is a new mechanical movement, and the first to be developed by Citizen in-house since 2010, and the first developed in collaboration with their Swiss subsidiary Manufacture La Joux-Perret S. A. As we understand it, Citizen hasRead More
SJX Watches
Breguet Debuts the Intriguing, Ingenious Valentine’s Day Special
Breguet, as well as its sister brand Blancpain, has made it a habit to introduce a Valentine’s Day edition each year. They are typically variations of existing ladies’s watches that have been dressed up with extra mother of pearl or diamonds; they are rarely interesting mechanically. But for Valentine’s Day 2021, Breguet has the Reine de Naples Cœur 9825 up its sleeve, and it is a surprisingly interesting watch. Presented in the familiar egg-shaped Reine de Naples case, the Cœur edition (coeur is “heart” in French) is inspired by 18th century “expanding hands” pocket watches. Initial thoughts Breguet is capable of many impressive complications – demonstrated by watches like the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 – but they are rarely quirky. Though inspired by historical pocket watches, the Reine de Naples Cœur is clever and original. The repeated use of hearts throughout the design feels a bit affected – the five-minute markers are all tiny hearts – but the watch remains graceful, with a subtle complication that isn’t immediately apparent. Although no photos of the movement are available yet, the cal. 78A0 inside is almost certainly constructed and decorated to a high level, as all Breguet watches are. The fact that it’s limited to just 28 watches is a bit of a shame, especially considering the reasonable price tag of just over US$46,000. Expanding hands Pocket watches with “expanding hands” were invented sometime in the earl...
SJX Watches
Urwerk Introduces the UR-220 “Falcon Project”
Urwerk has just revealed the next generation of its flagship wristwatch – the UR-220 “Falcon Project”. Retaining the same case shape and signature satellite-cube hour display as its predecessor, the UR-210, the “Falcon Project” is nonetheless an entirely different watch. The UR-220 is powered by a newly-developed movement that hand-wound, instead of automatic as before, and in a first for the brand, the case is made of carbon composite, matched with a rubber-carbon composite strap. Initial thoughts A landmark in avant-garde independent watchmaking for its three-dimensional wandering hours, the UR-201 evolved into the UR-203 and then the UR-210. The new UR-220 is an incremental improvement in the same vein, though a substantial one. I had hoped for a brand-new time display to succeed the satellite-cube indicator, but that is perhaps something for the distant future. Even though the UR-220 retains the same general aesthetic on the front, it is fundamentally different mechanically. The movement has been substantially reengineered – the base remains the Zenith Elite calibre in the UR-210 but now minus automatic mechanism – and now incorporates new functions like the cylindrical service indicator. It also sees the addition of a split power-reserve display, which Urwerk says was a complex mechanism requiring 83 parts. While that may be true, it feels unnecessary, except to give the face a symmetrical layout. But one of the most significant changes is the case mate...
Time+Tide
An Omega fan responds to the release of the Omega Speedmaster Caliber 321 (and addresses the 20K elephant in the room)
Putting on my Speedmaster Professional 50th anniversary this morning, I couldn’t help but reflect and smile on the huge announcement from Omega. The decade has just begun and Omega dropped a bombshell with the announcement of the Omega Speedmaster Caliber 321 in stainless steel. By now, you would have read that this particular watch was … ContinuedThe post An Omega fan responds to the release of the Omega Speedmaster Caliber 321 (and addresses the 20K elephant in the room) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
New TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5 brings upgrades, more customisation, and a new size
Hodinkee
Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Caliber 12 Final Edition
The swan song of a longtime caliber in the Monaco stable.
Deployant
New: Seiko re-edition: 1969 Quartz Astron 50th Anniversary Limited Edition Caliber 3X22
Seiko releases the Seiko Quartz Astron 50th Anniversary Limited Edition Caliber 3X22.With the good looks of the oringal Astron, but with a new movement.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: The World Economic Forum of the vintage watch market
The handful of BIG Rolex collectors meet-ups around the world represent the sanctum sanctorum of the vintage watch world, secretive affairs (which is sensible, given the dollar value of watches on the table) that offer a glimpse not just into the ultra-rarefied, and slightly odd, world of very high-end watch collecting, but also where the … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The World Economic Forum of the vintage watch market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Introducing the Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch”
Akrivia’s entry for Only Watch 2019 is a unique variant of its critically acclaimed Chronomètre Contemporain but with an added bonus – the platinum case is made by storied case specialist Jean-Pierre Hagmann. The first outing at Only Watch for Akrivia and its founder Rexhep Rexhepi, the unique Chronomètre Contemporain is equipped with a dial made of grey-blue fired enamel featuring white enamel markings. But the dial is unusual for having a hand-hammered finish, a decoration typically only applied to gold dials, giving it a granular surface. The view from the back of the 38mm platinum case is identical to that of the standard model, save for the “JHP” hallmark on the lower right lug. It’s short for Jean-Pierre Hagmann, a semiretired case maker who was responsible for some of the most exquisite watch cases of the 1980s and 1990s. Amongst his work is the incredibly complex case of the Patek Philippe Star Calibre 2000 pocket watch. The Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch” is the first watch to emerge from the recently inked collaboration between Akrivia and Mr Hagmann. Stay tuned for more on this. The Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch” has an estimate of 40,000-60,000 Swiss francs, and will go under the hammer on November 9, 2019 at Christie’s in Geneva. The complete Only Watch 2019 collection can be seen on onlywatch.com.
Deployant
3 new Citizen Eco-Drive watches with the Caliber 0100: world’s most precise watch
Citizen releases three new watches with the Caliber 0100, the most highest precision at +/- 1 second Available in WG, and Ti cases.
Video
This New French Microbrand Made an Elegant Pilot Watch with 200m Water Resistance
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Omega Resumes Production Of The Caliber 321 Movement
Based on the Lemania 2310 - a movement that would serve as a base for watches like the Patek Philippe 3970 - the original caliber 321 stands as the spirit of the "true" moon and pre-moon watches. As a column-wheel chronograph, it's also highly coveted by collectors due to the historical significance and purported superiority as well.
Deployant
New: Omega re-introduces the Caliber 321
Omega re-introduces their most famous movement – the Caliber 321. This robust and elegant chronograph movement has been a favourite since the 1940s and is still highly sought-after by watch collectors around the world. Now, more than 50 years after the last Calibre 321 was produced, Omega is bringing the iconic movement back. Known forRead More
Time+Tide
ANNOUNCING: If you’re thinking about buying an Autavia, now is the time to move – our Collector’s Packs are on sale today
Our Autavia plus Collector’s Packs go on sale today. Last week, we announced that we’ve put together a Collector’s Pack to include with our limited sale of 10 TAG Heuer Autavia Calibre Heuer 02 watches. Today, the sale is live - you can check it out right now in the shop. The sale is for a … ContinuedThe post ANNOUNCING: If you’re thinking about buying an Autavia, now is the time to move – our Collector’s Packs are on sale today appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Autavia Jo Siffert Collector’s Edition, made in collaboration with Calibre 11
Before we talk about the watch, some backstory. Calibre 11 has been one of the leading TAG Heuer resources since 2009, and the driving force behind the site is David Chalmers. A quick search of my email archive tells me that I’ve known David since 2011, and I’ve always been impressed not only by his … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Autavia Jo Siffert Collector’s Edition, made in collaboration with Calibre 11 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Where No Watch Journalist Has Gone Before with the BR 03-94
Special correspondent Jim Clash, a lifelong adventurer, was offered a series of military-related experiences, all while wearing the perfect watch, the Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Black Matte Ceramic.
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