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Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW325: A Quiet Anniversary, Done Right

Grand Seiko marks 25 years of the hand-wind 9S movement by going back to where it all started

Icon · Guide
Snowflake Grand Seiko

The 2010 Spring Drive reference with a dial textured like fresh Shinshu snow.

Exclusive · Guide
Grand Seiko Refreshes the Entire Evolution 9 Collection With New Bracelets, a Micro-Adjust Clasp, and the Spring Drive UFA Calibre

Nine new references, a better bracelet, and the Spring Drive UFA making its way into classic Evo9 cases. Here's what actually changed.

Dimensions · Guide
Case dimensions: Grand Seiko Snowflake (Spring Drive) Grand Seiko

41 mm × 12.8 mm, lug 21 mm, Cal. 9R65

Best Watches Under $10,000 Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko SBGM221 Price $5,900 Reference:SBGM221 Jul 21, 2025

Best Watches Under $10,000

Building a watch collection is generally a progression, beginning with the accumulation of a handful of modestly priced favorites and building toward the quest for pricier and more coveted models as one's knowledge and disposable income grow. We've showcased many worthwhile models in many price categories, but it's the sweet spot between $5,000 to about $10,000 that many consider the most fertile ground for finding some of those Holy Grails of timekeeping from some of the world's legendary watch brands. If you're in the market for your first "icon" watch (and you're looking to buy new rather than vintage or pre-owned), here are 21 of the best watches under $10,000 to consider, all topping out below the five-figure price barrier. Grand Seiko SBGM221 Price: $5,900 Reference:SBGM221, Case Size: 39.5mm, Case Height: 13.7mm, Lug Width: 19mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: GS 9S66 In 2017 Grand Seiko released the SBGM221 GMT which has stood as one of the brand’s best values to date. Inspired by some of their 1960s designs, the SBGM221 is characterized by that simple ivory-colored dial and vibrant blue GMT hand not to mention the eminently wearable 39.5mm wide steel case. And then there is the Zaratsu polishing throughout the case and dial which plays with the light in a way that only Grand Seiko seems able to do. The Caliber 9S66 is a tried and tested “true” GMT movement that allows you do independently adjust the hour hand and operates at 4 Hz w...

Hands On: Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Jul 18, 2025

Hands On: Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009

Grand Seiko returns to its Sport Collection with an even bolder and edgier take on its flagship chronograph with the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009. Combining an oversized case Brilliant Hard Titanium and a high-spec, high-beat chronograph movement, the striking new is Tentagraph is surprisingly not an all-new design but an iterative evolution that builds on the existing Sport Collection case. Initial Thoughts While a strength of Seiko itself, chronometry-focused Grand Seiko has historically struggled with sports watches, though not for lack of trying. In 2019 Grand Seiko launched the angular and aggressive Sport case featuring a facetted, polygonal form with a sapphire-covered bezel to celebrate 20 years of Spring Drive. Grand Seiko intended the design to evoke the mane of the brand’s lion mascot. In 2023 came the regular production Tokyo Lion series, and the brand also extended the design language into its jewelled Masterpiece watches. The “lion’s mane” case design reminds me of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept, and with the addition of an octagonal bezel the resemblance has only grown, though I wouldn’t say it is derivative – if anything the Grand Seiko case is a more boisterous take on the 45GS design from the late 1960s. The earlier Spring Drive GMT Chronograph SBGC275 with a less stylised case design I quite liked the Sport case when it was launched in 2019, especially the rose gold SBGC230, but it felt unfinished with a round bezel and buttons. With...

Grand Seiko Shunbun SBGA413 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Shunbun SBGA413 Review Some Jul 17, 2025

Grand Seiko Shunbun SBGA413 Review

Some watches become icons unexpectedly, and we would argue that no model better represents that idea than the Grand Seiko SBGA413 Shunbun – a watch that, on paper, should not even be an icon to begin with. So much of this watch’s ascension into the broader horological pantheon has to do with everything that GS does right in its process to create a watch from start to finish.  We know the brand for its vertical integration, its attention to detail, its mastery of the craft when it comes to dial design, case construction, and finishing. Not to mention how the brand has made it mark as the the name in movement accuracy. All of these aspects and more are on full display within and without the SBGA413. It is a masterclass in subtlety and craft, and one that is truly more than the sum of its parts. To understand the SBGA413, we must first understand the origin story.  Grand Seiko Shunbun Background In 2019, Grand Seiko unveiled four watches as U.S.-only exclusives in what it called its “Seasons” collection. Each watch employed the brand’s 62GS case concept (the brand’s first automatic watch), and two were mechanical while the other two utilized Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive technology. The Grand Seiko Shunbun SBGA413 represented the Spring season and did so visually via a unique dial with a hint of pink emblematic of the cherry blossoms in bloom at the start of the spring season. This subtle dial which only appears in certain lighting conditions was paired with an u...

The Best Watches of 2025 (So Far) Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Jul 14, 2025

The Best Watches of 2025 (So Far)

It’s July, the halfway point of 2025, so we thought now would be a good time to take stock of some of our favorite new releases of the year. It’s been a busy new release from large and small brands alike, with a mix of ambitious new projects and iterative releases that take some of our favorite collections to new places. Our contributors, as always, found a lot to like this year at a variety of price points and in a large array of styles.  What are some of your favorite new watch releases of 2025? Let us know in the comments what we missed, and what you’re looking forward to or hoping for in the months ahead.  Zach Weiss – Fears Arnos  It didn’t take long to pick my favorite watch of 2025 so far, even with some stiff competition from Nomos and Grand Seiko. That watch is the Fears Arnos in Pewter Blue, a watch I’ve had the luck of encountering a couple of times in person. Fears is one of, if not the only, contemporary micro-indie working on the more formal side of watch design, something that isn’t surprising to anyone who has met the invariably well-dressed proprietor of the brand, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill. But what makes their approach so intriguing is that they aren’t just making vaguely Patek-esque designs with Fears on the dial and calling it a day; they are coming up with innovative and even odd designs that one would still call dressy. That said, the Arnos takes their approach to a new level. A thin, rectangular watch measuring 33.5mm x 40mm x 8.4m...

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: RJ’s Choices From Rolex, Omega, Grand Seiko, And G-Shock Fratello
Grand Seiko Jul 14, 2025

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: RJ’s Choices From Rolex, Omega, Grand Seiko, And G-Shock

Yes, I know this series is supposed to be about watches for summer, but is there such a thing as a typical summer watch? I think I’ll go against the grain and refer to my picks as “holiday watches” instead, as preparing for a vacation is when I carefully select the watch (or watches) I […] Visit Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: RJ’s Choices From Rolex, Omega, Grand Seiko, And G-Shock to read the full article.

Fratello’s Top 5 Chronograph Watches Of The First Half Of 2025 - Featuring Patek Philippe, Singer, Grand Seiko, And More Fratello
Patek Philippe Singer Grand Seiko Jul 11, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Chronograph Watches Of The First Half Of 2025 - Featuring Patek Philippe, Singer, Grand Seiko, And More

It’s Friday again. Then Saturday, Sunday, what? If you recognize this, you know your music. It’s also a nice cue for our next list article with the best watches of the first half of 2025. This week, we’re focusing on our five favorite chronograph watches that came out in the past six months. Some of […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Chronograph Watches Of The First Half Of 2025 - Featuring Patek Philippe, Singer, Grand Seiko, And More to read the full article.

Introducing: Two New Orient Star M34 F8 Date Watches With Out-Of-This-World Dials Fratello
Grand Seiko draws inspiration from local Jul 11, 2025

Introducing: Two New Orient Star M34 F8 Date Watches With Out-Of-This-World Dials

Orient Star made its big comeback to Europe a few years ago. Since then, the brand’s M Collections have been taking center stage. While Grand Seiko draws inspiration from local nature, sometimes just outside its studio in Shizukuishi, Iwate Prefecture, Orient Star finds inspiration further afield. Much further indeed, as Orient Star bases its dials […] Visit Introducing: Two New Orient Star M34 F8 Date Watches With Out-Of-This-World Dials to read the full article.

eBay Finds: A Classic Omega, a Grand Seiko in Great Condition, and an Uncommon Watch from Texas Instruments Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Jun 20, 2025

eBay Finds: A Classic Omega, a Grand Seiko in Great Condition, and an Uncommon Watch from Texas Instruments

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Citizen Here is a brilliant vintage Citizen. The stainless steel case is unpolished with nice sharp edges on the bezel and killer lugs. The clean white dial has two vertical silver stripes that give it a really sporty look. Simple applied steel baton markers and a day/date window at 3 o’clock. Overall a classic looking Japanese sport/dress watch. The watch comes on a steel Jubilee-style bracelet that fits the look, but is not original to the watch. The crown is signed as it should be. No movement picture but it runs well per the seller.  View auction here Texas Instruments Starburst  Now this one is interesting! A vintage Texas Instruments Starburst digital watch that has an analog style display. The square case is gold plated, as is the integrated bracelet. The watch looks almost new-old-stock, and is in stellar condition with no wear. The dial has a gold radial starburst pattern, with a round digital display in the middle. It has LCD hands that show the time, as well as a day/date function. Really a trippy and unique vintage LCD watch that I haven’t seen before. The watch comes with the original box as well as the original instruction booklet. Works well per the seller, ...

Grand Seiko SBGM221 GMT Review Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko SBGM221 GMT Review Jun 18, 2025

Grand Seiko SBGM221 GMT Review

The GMT market has changed dramatically in the past seven years. I use that number specifically, because it takes us to 2018, when Tudor brought attainable traveller GMT (independent hour hand functionality) to market in a splashy way. Since then we have seen brands like Longines and Mido continue the work by delivering more options at even better price points. From a general “caller GMT” standpoint, Seiko has knocked it out of the park with models like those within the SSK range. We are living in a GMT moment with more options than ever. But if you took things back just one more year, to 2017, you could argue that it was the year Japan’s Grand Seiko made a mic-dropping value statement by way of the SBGM221, a traveller GMT in a dressier package with elite functionality while delivering value that far outpaces its price point. In 2025, that value proposition has not changed at all. Background:  The DNA of the SBGM221 looks back to the early roots of Grand Seiko in the 1960s to inform its design, but from a modern standpoint more directly can look to the SBGM021 released around 2010. That year is significant because it was the first year the brand arrived in the U.S. market. Aesthetically, the SBGM021 is an illustration of the older style of co-branded Seiko/Grand Seiko fare. Fast forward to 2017, and the watch reaches its completed form. But the 021, with its ivory dial, and general – and honestly quite original – GMT layout is established. You can see the direc...

Hands-On Review With The New Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A WatchAdvice
Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A Grand Jun 14, 2025

Hands-On Review With The New Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A

Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive U.F.A (SLGB003) sets a new benchmark in mechanical watchmaking with an astonishing ±20 seconds per year accuracy. Wrapped in a new slimmer Evolution 9 case and finished with a dial inspired by winter in Shinshu, it’s a masterclass in subtle innovation and timeless elegance. What We Love The Calibre 9RB2 delivers an incredible +/- 20 seconds per year, redefining what is possible from a mainspring-powered mechanical movement The new 37mm case size makes the timepiece highly wearable for a wide range of wrist sizes. The beautifully textured dial captures Grand Seiko’s unique blend of craftsmanship and storytelling. What We Don’t While very comfortable, the standard three-link bracelet feels a little too plain for a release of this calibre. For a groundbreaking caliber, the caseback view feels a little subdued. For such a significant release, the design feels a little too in line with previous Evolution 9 models. Overall Rating: 9.25 / 10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Grand Seiko was first established in 1960 as a sister brand to Seiko, created to combat the Swiss watchmakers and their high-end luxury timepieces. While Seiko made affordable everyday timepieces, It was Grand Seiko’s role to create unique, innovative pieces that would cater to the luxury and high-end watchmaking market. Among the many different innovations and stunning dial aesthetics, one key aspect that truly makes Grand S...

Hands-On: the Trafford Watch Co. Daytripper Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko 9F models but all Jun 3, 2025

Hands-On: the Trafford Watch Co. Daytripper

I have the unfortunate obligation to begin this review with a shocking admission: Zach Kazan was right. Some time ago, during one of my back-to-back travel periods where I jumped through time zones, I had a spirited debate with our Managing Editor. I maintained that I not only enjoyed having a GMT, but needed one to keep my timing straight; while Zach insisted that I was wrong. In the past, a traveller’s GMT had been an invaluable tool in the workplace, keeping me mindful of editors working in other time zones. Yet, Zach argued that all you needed was an independently adjustable hour hand and some basic math skills. If you are working across time zones, do the math. If you are traveling through them, change the hour without messing with minutes and seconds. Immediately upon landing back in New York from a trip to London, I started looking for an Omega Aqua Terra.  During my search, it struck me as odd that this jumping hours complication (without an associated GMT) was not more widely seen, and never really on the more attainable side of things. Sure, you can find it in models from Omega, parts of Citizen’s The Citizen collection, the Ming 17.09, and newer Grand Seiko 9F models; but all of those will set you back a few thousand dollars. That is, until now. As if from some stroke of divine intervention, I received word of a new watch coming from Trafford Watch Co., utilizing a clever movement alteration to achieve this complication at a much more attainable price point...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 “Lavender” Vs. Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 Fratello
Grand Seiko Kiri” SBGW323 Welcome Jun 1, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 “Lavender” Vs. Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323

Welcome to another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we decided to put the Swiss up against the Japanese, each with a purple-dial stainless steel watch of their own. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual with a lavender dial represents the Swiss, while the Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 represents the Japanese. Both came out during Watches […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 “Lavender” Vs. Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 to read the full article.

The Grand Seiko You Didn’t Know Existed - an Owner’s Review of the SBGX331 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko You Didn’t Know Existed May 16, 2025

The Grand Seiko You Didn’t Know Existed - an Owner’s Review of the SBGX331

With Grand Seiko’s rise to popularity in the last few years, it’s hard to find a truly obscure model. And yet, here we are. No, it’s not some vintage reference buried in the archives or a short-lived limited edition you didn’t know about. It’s a modern watch-one that was still available as recently as fall 2023. It wasn’t exclusive to a single boutique, and yet, you’ve likely never seen it before. Why? Because it’s a Japanese domestic model that’s flown almost entirely under the radar. The watch is the Grand Seiko SBGX331-and by the time you finish reading this, you might just want one yourself. So, how did I end up with the SBGX331? Back in September 2023, I had the chance to travel to Japan as part of the Grand Seiko Media Experience-a whirlwind tour of Seiko and Grand Seiko’s facilities across Honshu. Over just a few days, we visited multiple workshops, watched artisans at work, and took in various presentations on the brand’s history, movements, and proprietary technologies. We saw case finishing, dial printing, and even the production of Credor Eichi II dials. And yes, we ate-a lot. For a more detailed breakdown of that trip, check out my write-up here. As a longtime Grand Seiko fan, it wasn’t so much a crash course as it was a chance to confirm that all the stories I’d read-and in some cases repeated-were actually real. Seeing Zaratsu polishing done in person, or hands being heat-blued to a precise hue, or watching minute indices...

Grand Seiko Snowflake Review Teddy Baldassarre
Audemars Piguet May 12, 2025

Grand Seiko Snowflake Review

  The Grand Seiko “Snowflake” is not just a watch that helped define Grand Seiko as a luxury brand to be reckoned with in the 21st Century: it is also at the vanguard of an industry-wide movement toward making dials more beautiful, enticing, and unique - not only with the bold use of color, but with textures that play with the concept of 3D space and the interplay of light and shadow. Nearly every Grand Seiko model of note can claim a dial (and often a nickname) with a distinctly eye-catching motif, usually inspired by the breathtaking natural wonders of the company’s native Japan. Other luxury watch brands have noticed and followed suit - from luxury leaders like Rolex,  Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet, to attainable brands like little-brother Seiko and its main competitor, Citizen. The “Snowflake,” Grand Seiko’s first and still most famous textured dial, is arguably the OG of this trend; here is the story of how it came to be and where it stands today. As success stories for new watch brands go, it’s hard to find a better case study in the past decade than Grand Seiko. The Japanese high-luxury watchmaker has, in its relatively short stint in the international market, elevated itself in the eyes of many collectors to the upper echelon of watchmaking prestige and collectibility, competing for connoisseur attention and dollars with well-established maisons from Switzerland and Germany. This plaudit, of course, comes with a caveat: Grand Seiko is not ...

The Best Grand Seiko Dials Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Dials If there’s one Apr 25, 2025

The Best Grand Seiko Dials

If there’s one thing Grand Seiko is known for, it is its textured dials….and Spring Drive…and Zaratsu polishing... Okay, one of the things Grand Seiko is known for is its textured dials. Often inspired by the beauty of the natural landscape surrounding Grand Seiko's manufacture in Japan, these dials are now often imitated but never truly replicated. We asked our editorial team here at Teddy to choose their favorite GS dial and, unsurprisingly, we got some really stunning picks here. So, without further ado, here are our Editors’ Picks for favorite Grand Seiko dials. Bilal Khan: SBGA011/SBGA211 "Snowflake" The Grand Seiko SBGA211 (originally the SBGA011), aka the Snowflake, is where it all began. Back in 2004, the watchmakers at the dial workshop in the Shinshu watch studio were given a novel task: create a dial that would capture the beauty of the natural surroundings of where the Spring Drive movement was born. The answer was in front of their eyes when they gazed at the snow-capped mountains that commanded their views for half the year. Creating this dial was a challenge but they found inspiration from an old 56GS watch dating back to 1971, which had a texture similar to what the team wanted to achieve. It took some trial and error but they found success through a silver plating method that would go on to birth the now-iconic "Snowflake" dial. It might look somewhat demure and less dramatic than more recent textured dials, but this is the quintessential Grand Sei...