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Available Now: The Jacques Bianchi Marseille × Fratello JB200 PoulPro Night Diver Limited Edition Fratello
Jun 6, 2024

Available Now: The Jacques Bianchi Marseille × Fratello JB200 PoulPro Night Diver Limited Edition

Summer is just around the corner, and dive-watch season is well underway. This means long days in the sun, traveling to exotic locations, and plenty of action in the water, like swimming, snorkeling, and maybe even diving. But as much as we enjoy long, sunny summer days with our divers, we wanted a watch that […] Visit Available Now: The Jacques Bianchi Marseille × Fratello JB200 PoulPro Night Diver Limited Edition to read the full article.

Vintage Watches: Art Deco Pocket Watches From Longines And Tissot Fratello
Longines Jun 5, 2024

Vintage Watches: Art Deco Pocket Watches From Longines And Tissot

At Fratello, we focus on watches, and 99.9% of the time, that means ones for the wrist. However, it’s interesting that the wristwatch is still in its relative infancy. It was the pocket watch that loomed large in prior centuries. Today, we’ll look at two gems from the twilight of the pocket watch era. These […] Visit Vintage Watches: Art Deco Pocket Watches From Longines And Tissot to read the full article.

Hands On: Patek Philippe “Extra Special” Chronometer of Henry Graves Jr. SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Extra Special” Chronometer Jun 3, 2024

Hands On: Patek Philippe “Extra Special” Chronometer of Henry Graves Jr.

A patrician banker who gained posthumous fame in the 21st century for his watch collection, Henry Graves Jr. (1868–1953) is most famous for having owned the Graves Supercomplication, once the most complicated watch in the world, and also the most expensive watch ever when it sold at auction ten years ago. His reputation means the watches he once owned – there were not all that many of them but all were high quality – carry cachet. One such example is coming up for sale at Phillips New York auction. It’s a Patek Philippe “Extra Special” pocket watch that is top-quality chronometer, classical in style and functional, and bearing the all-important Graves family crest on the hinged back. Now a horological symbol Not rivals but great collectors Graves’ modern-day fame as a watch collector was due in part to the ostensible rivalry between him and James Ward Packard (1863-1928), the engineer who founded the eponymous automobile company and an equally accomplished collector of great watches. Though both were active during the same decades, more or less, the famous competition between the two was a story made up in the 1990s to market the Supercomplication. Graves outlived Packard by 25 years, and the latter was quite ill when Graves was at his collecting peak. Graves bought the “Extra Special” pocket watch here in 1925, the year Ward fell ill with cancer before dying just three years later. An example of Packard’s impeccable taste: he commissioned this Patek Ph...

A New Book Highlights Rare Watches and Thirty Years of European Watch Company Worn & Wound
May 21, 2024

A New Book Highlights Rare Watches and Thirty Years of European Watch Company

Being a watch collector sometimes means acquiring many other things that are tangentially related to the hobby. We talk about this stuff all the time on Worn & Wound. It’s not just the watch “stuff” that you’d expect, either. Things like straps, storage, and tools of course will naturally accumulate as a collection grows, but there are seemingly endless additional rabbit holes one can fall down that in one way or another support a watch collecting habit. Anyone who has been to a Windup event (or any large watch meetup for that matter) has surely noticed all of the collectors with nice cameras slung over their shoulders. You have to document these things somehow, right? And the bounds of enthusiasm stretch to things like sneakers, apparel, writing instruments, and EDC related gear, all areas we’ve explored in these pages, and all areas that have embraced watch collectors and that watch collectors, in turn, have welcomed. And then there are the books. Certainly many in this community have built libraries of watch reference volumes over the years. There are many to choose from, and some offer rare glimpses of watches with beautiful photography that gets you as close as you can to a dream watch short of owning it.  Last week saw the release of a new volume that borrows on three decades of tradition and knowledge for a book that is packed with information on some of the rarest watches. The Connoisseur’s Guide to Fine Timepieces is inspired by the life’s work of A...

New To The Shop: Gerber Gear Worn & Wound
Casio n when we have May 17, 2024

New To The Shop: Gerber Gear

Our readers know that Worn & Wound is all about celebrating the spirit of adventure and enthusiasm that comes from the appreciation of quality products and the communities around them. This includes watches, of course, and also gear. Our love for the heritage, craftsmanship, and ownership experience of these watches and tools means we carefully curate our selection in the Windup Watch Shop. We don’t just stand by what we carry; they are things we would be thrilled to own and enjoy ourselves. It’s a special occasion when we have the privilege of introducing a new brand to the Shop, and today we get to do just that. The brand? Gerber Gear. And the products? Simply fantastic. Our readers know that Worn & Wound is all about celebrating the spirit of adventure and enthusiasm that comes from the appreciation of quality products and the communities around them. This includes watches, of course, and also gear. Our love for the heritage, craftsmanship, and ownership experience of these watches and tools means we carefully curate our selection in the Windup Watch Shop. We don’t just stand by what we carry; they are things we would be thrilled to own and enjoy ourselves. It’s a special occasion when we have the privilege of introducing a new brand to the Shop, and today we get to do just that. The brand? Gerber Gear. And the products? Simply fantastic. The post New To The Shop: Gerber Gear appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Introducing the B/1, the Debut Watch from Toledano & Chan Worn & Wound
Cartier s May 9, 2024

Introducing the B/1, the Debut Watch from Toledano & Chan

A long lived pet peeve of mine in the watch industry is people referring to watches as “Brutalist” without having a clue about what the term really means. How, I always wonder, can a brand refer to their watch as being inspired by Brutalist architecture without it even being made of concrete? Well, the debut watch from Toledano & Chan is properly Brutalist in a very specific way, and truly lives up to its inspiration. And while the watch itself might not be made of concrete, the box is (really), and as someone who identifies Boston City Hall as one of his favorite buildings, that scores major points in my book.  The B/1 is the result of a collaboration between watch designer Alfred Chan and artist, watch collector, entrepreneur, and budding TikTok personality Phil Toledano. You may remember Phil from his appearance on the Worn & Wound podcast, and if you’ve spent any time looking at watches on Instagram or TikTok, you’ve likely seen him unboxing new (but actually old) Pateks, Cartiers, and Piagets with his pal Mike Nouveau. Phil (who goes my Mr. Enthusiast on social media) has long been one of my favorite collectors for his eccentric and adventurous taste, fully embracing the strangest and rarest designs by the aforementioned brands and many others. If the industry as a whole is currently moving toward smaller watches, shaped cases, stone dials, and the avant-garde, let it be said that Phil got there first. He’s been interested in this stuff for years, and bangi...

When the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is More Than an Entry-Level Watch SJX Watches
Rolex Oyster Perpetual May 7, 2024

When the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is More Than an Entry-Level Watch

A no-frills time-only watch, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is now the brand’s entry-level model that’s available in a variety of dial styles and sizes, including the sought-after “Bubbles” dial. But Rolex has been making watches for long enough that the Oyster Perpetual from many moons ago is now a six- or seven-figure watch. Two of these special Oyster Perpetuals figure prominently in Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction. They are final two lots on the last day of the sale: lot 218 is the Oyster Perpetual ref. 6098 “Galaxy”, and lot 219 is the Oyster ref. 6102 cloisonné “La Caravelle” with bombe lugs. The Oyster ref. 6098 “Galaxy” The Oyster ref. 6102 “La Caravelle”. Both are time-only watches with Oyster cases, but the opposite of no-frills. They date from the 1950s, when Rolex was experimenting with a diverse range of dials for the Oyster Perpetual (and perhaps the recent 1908 in platinum is a return to form?) The “Galaxy” gets its name from the star-shaped indices on the glossy black dial, while “La Caravelle” refers to the cloisonné enamel dial made by a leading enameller of the period, Margueritte Koch. Today’s Oyster Perpetual with the “Celebration” dial of coloured bubbles Star-crossed Rolex watches with star dials are marvellous watches (which is why it was the inspiration for our Habring² Erwin “Star”). The most famous and expensive type of Rolex with such a dial is the ref. 6062 “Stelline” triple calendar. Less widel...

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Geneva SJX Watches
F.P. Journe May 4, 2024

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Geneva

With the current popularity of independent watchmaking, the proportion of auction catalogues dedicated to the genre has grown. At the same time, the obvious slowdown in the market means prices have moderated. The result is a more diverse offering of independent watchmaking, and at lower prices than 18 months ago. The upcoming Phillips’ Geneva auction illustrates this. We take a look at some of the notable examples of independent watchmaking, including a Middle East edition from F.P. Journe, a glow-in-the-dark Voutilainen World Timer, and a trio of time-only watches that are all interesting yet entirely different from Philippe Dufour, Paul Gerber, and Charles Frodsham. The Geneva Watch Auction: XIX takes place over two days on May 11 and 12 the Hotel President in downtown Geneva (a change from the traditional venue of La Reserve). The full catalogue is available on Phillips.com. 62 – F.P. Journe lineSport Chronograph Rattrapante Eastern-Arabic numerals Notably good value in titanium, the lineSport Chronograph Rattrapante is less affordable in platinum but certainly more special, and much more substantial. While the titanium and gold versions are relatively conventional in terms of aesthetics, the platinum version is unusual with its purple dial that works surprisingly well. Like most F.P. Journe movements, the calibre inside is slim, a feat considering the additional height required for the rattrapante mechanism. The split-seconds is done in the traditional manner with...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex GMT-Master II “Black And Gray” Rolesor 126713GRNR Vs. Stainless Steel 126710GRNR Fratello
Tudor vs Rolex battle Last Apr 21, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex GMT-Master II “Black And Gray” Rolesor 126713GRNR Vs. Stainless Steel 126710GRNR

It’s Sunday morning! Yes, that means it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown inspired by the new releases we saw at Watches and Wonders 2024. It’s time for a full-on Rolex showdown after last week’s Tudor vs. Rolex battle. Last year, The Crown introduced the 18K yellow gold and Rolesor versions of the GMT-Master II […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex GMT-Master II “Black And Gray” Rolesor 126713GRNR Vs. Stainless Steel 126710GRNR to read the full article.

Introducing: The Baltic × Tour Auto 2024 Tricompax - This Chronograph Is Ready For The Classic Road Rally Fratello
Baltic × Tour Auto 2024 Apr 18, 2024

Introducing: The Baltic × Tour Auto 2024 Tricompax - This Chronograph Is Ready For The Classic Road Rally

Drivers, start your engines because the race is about to start! And this is not just any race - it’s the Tour Auto 2024, a classic road rally, also known as the Tour de France Automobile. The race uses France’s open roads and iconic race tracks, such as Le Mans, as its scenery. This year […] Visit Introducing: The Baltic × Tour Auto 2024 Tricompax - This Chronograph Is Ready For The Classic Road Rally to read the full article.

Introducing – The Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph JX7 for Jacky Ickx Monochrome
Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Apr 18, 2024

Introducing – The Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph JX7 for Jacky Ickx

In their seventh collaboration, renowned race car driver and six times Le Mans winner Jacky Ickx and Chopard‘s Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele have crafted a timepiece that honours the racing legend but also celebrates their 36-year friendship fueled by a mutual love for motorsport and exquisite watches. Inspired by the distinctive blue-coloured helmets worn by Ickx […]

Editorial: Observations and Takeaways at Watches & Wonders 2024 SJX Watches
Cartier s Cyrille Vignernon retire Apr 17, 2024

Editorial: Observations and Takeaways at Watches & Wonders 2024

Watches & Wonders 2024 just closed its doors earlier this week, and as usual attendance was up. Visitors increased 14% over last year, reaching some 49,000. It certainly felt more crowded, though sentiment was muted. Glamour, however, was delivered by the visits of Gisele Bündchen and Kylian Mbappé at IWC and Hublot respectively. Interestingly, there seemed to be fewer notable independent watchmakers walking around the halls then before, perhaps reflecting their success (which means they needed to meet clients). Gisele Bündchen sporting the new Portugieser chronograph. Image – Watches & Wonders Destiny On the topic of people, the inevitable questions about who’s going where were circulating as usual. When will Cartier’s Cyrille Vignernon retire and who will replace him? Will there be management changes at the LVMH watch division with Frederic Arnault in charge? Insiders have some idea and the rest of us will have to wait. Questions were also asked about brands, specifically smaller players with mixed fortunes – whether they will be sold or simply shut down, like Rebellion was a few months ago. There is of course the perennial sale of Parmigiani, but that isn’t really news – the brand has been quietly on the market for years with no takers. Some brands might have been lucrative exits for their owners a year ago, but now the discussion about a dimmer fate reflects the palpably normalised watch business. Where the outlook is always bright. Image – Watches & W...

Omega Is Going For Gold At The Paris 2024 Olympic Games With Two New Versions Of The Speedmaster Chronoscope Fratello
Omega Apr 16, 2024

Omega Is Going For Gold At The Paris 2024 Olympic Games With Two New Versions Of The Speedmaster Chronoscope

The opening ceremony of the Olympic Games in Paris takes place on the 26th of July, so mark your calendars! This also means that, as of today, it’s only 100 days away. Omega is getting ready for its 31st time as the official timekeeper for the event. To get us all in the mood, the […] Visit Omega Is Going For Gold At The Paris 2024 Olympic Games With Two New Versions Of The Speedmaster Chronoscope to read the full article.

Back to Basics with the Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Some Apr 10, 2024

Back to Basics with the Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome”

Some things are worth the wait. Though the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT will likely get the most press from the brand’s releases at this year’s Watches & Wonders event, the release of a stripped-down, monochromatic, black and silver, 41mm Black Bay is no less significant. Why? Well, it’s the most obvious colorway for a dive watch, which means it’s bound to be a classic. First launched in 2012, the 41mm Black Bay (just called “Black Bay”) is the watch that reestablished Tudor after some time in horological purgatory. Perfectly timed to ride the wave of vintage-inspired aesthetics that dominated for the decade hence, it showed that Tudor unliked their sister brand, Rolex, was willing to be a bit trendier and fun. Originally powered by ETA movements, it was the first to receive Tudor’s in-house caliber in 2016 and then underwent a third iteration in 2023 when it received the upgraded Master Chronometer certification (and technically a new caliber), as well as a slight redesign in the form of an updated handset, crown, and profile. With the introduction of the Black Bay 58, GMT, and 54 models, new versions of the Black Bay slowed down. Several different colors have been available, from the original burgundy bezel to a steel bezel with date to two-tone models. Yet, despite its tenure, the most obvious model never existed. The model most dive watches come in as a given: simple black-black bezel, black dial, white lume, white or silver markers. No gilt, no red, no fuss....

First Look – The Handsome New Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green in Lucent Steel Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green Apr 10, 2024

First Look – The Handsome New Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green in Lucent Steel

The Chopard L.U.C XPS series, renowned for its grace and technical beauty, is a top choice for dress watches. Among the latest additions to this collection, the L.U.C XPS Forest Green stands out with its captivating dark green sector-style dial and lustrous Lucent Steel case. Another demonstration of what quiet luxury means! The new Chopard […]

IWC is Thinking Very Far Ahead with their New Portugieser Eternal Calendar Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Apr 9, 2024

IWC is Thinking Very Far Ahead with their New Portugieser Eternal Calendar

Watches that do more than a human being is capable of are nothing new. Rolex, Omega, and others make dive watches that are capable of reaching depths that no man or woman could survive. The Rolex Deepsea Challenge is rated to 11,000 meters (which means it’s tested to even greater depths) while the deepest point in the ocean is about 10,900 meters, give or take. That means this particular dive watch can go deeper than any depth possible on the planet. Even that, somehow, feels more practical than IWC’s big release at Watches & Wonders, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar. This is the brand’s first secular calendar, which accounts for leap-year exception rules in the Gregorian calendar that play out over a 400 year span. A calendar complication that no living human will have a chance to observe do its thing in real time is one thing, but it’s the moonphase on this watch that is truly looking ahead: IWC claims it’s accurate to 45 million years. And just think, it wasn’t even ten years ago that the Apple Watch had many in this industry scared that watchmaking could be killed by smart-gadgets. Talk about confidence.  The concept of a secular calendar will be worth a refresher for many, as it’s a truly rare complication that most brands simply don’t attempt given the incredibly long timeframes involved (the last one we discussed in these pages was from indie Furlan Marri). The gist is this: in addition to a leap year every four years, Gregorian calendar needs an ad...

Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49 Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49 Mar 25, 2024

Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49

The Girard-Perregaux Laureato is one of the OG integrated-bracelet sports watches from the ’70s - 1975, to be precise. This means the model turns 50 years old next year. I am sure this will be celebrated with new additions to the collection, but we don’t have to wait until then. Girard-Perregaux is introducing a new […] Visit Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49 to read the full article.

Exploring WatchTok with Ben Cook, Creator of Ben’s Watches Worn & Wound
Feb 28, 2024

Exploring WatchTok with Ben Cook, Creator of Ben’s Watches

More than ever, being engaged in the watch community on social media means logging hours on TikTok. For years, the watch world has been building an impressive social infrastructure on Instagram, with collectors, brands, and dealers of all kinds finding a home on what is inarguably a platform that has reached maturity (even if not all of its users have). TikTok, by comparison, is a toddler, and to some of us who are dyed in the wool IG users, it’s every bit as inscrutable. But there’s no denying that the watch community, particularly new and younger watch collectors, are finding their way through the hobby on TikTok in much the same way that an older generation was educated on Instagram.  Something that the two platforms have in common is that both are personality driven, and if you let the algorithm on each app do its thing, eventually you’re going to come across creators who you personally identify with and gravitate towards. Ben Cook, a 26 year old New York City based TikTok and Instagram creator has been growing his audience for nearly two years and in a relatively short period of time has already established a niche as an authentic voice and a supporter of affordable and approachable watches.  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Ben’s Watches (@benswatches) “I’m an entrepreneur at the end of the day,” Ben told me in a recent interview. He started making watch focused TikTok content in May of 2022 at the suggestion of coworkers, and the accou...

Sylvester Stallone’s Panerai split-seconds chrono watch worn in The Expendables is up for auction Time+Tide
Panerai split-seconds chrono watch worn Feb 20, 2024

Sylvester Stallone’s Panerai split-seconds chrono watch worn in The Expendables is up for auction

Sylvester Stallone is a well-documented watch collector, and pieces of his going up for auction are by no means an entirely new phenomenon. But, when watches from famous individuals hit the mainstream auction block – Phillips, Sotheby’s, and Christie’s – there is a lot of marketing and PR behind those lots and they inevitably get … ContinuedThe post Sylvester Stallone’s Panerai split-seconds chrono watch worn in The Expendables is up for auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tales From The Speedy Tuesday Community: How A Small Yorkshire Village Became A Hub For Speedmaster Collectors Fratello
Feb 20, 2024

Tales From The Speedy Tuesday Community: How A Small Yorkshire Village Became A Hub For Speedmaster Collectors

For many of us, especially those reading this article, watch collecting is a key part of our lives, our main hobby, and our passion. But for the vast majority of people, a wristwatch is purely a means of telling the time and, in some cases, a status symbol. Some might be familiar with famous models, […] Visit Tales From The Speedy Tuesday Community: How A Small Yorkshire Village Became A Hub For Speedmaster Collectors to read the full article.

Hands-On: the Foliot Scubanaut Collection Worn & Wound
Feb 19, 2024

Hands-On: the Foliot Scubanaut Collection

Anyone who has been in the watch world long enough knows how hard it is to be surprised. New releases often feel like a revolving door of familiar brands tweaking existing models. Maybe that means a blue Pelagos FXD instead of a black one, or adding a piece of flair such as Kermit the frog to a date wheel without changing any complications. Iterations such as new dial colors and puppets on wheels make for temporary amusement, but fall short of evoking genuine surprise from enthusiasts who are no stranger to seeing their favorite childhood characters adorning their wrists. When bombshells from the big brand fizzle out, I often turn to the microbrand space in my quest for a bit of shock. I foster a special affinity for microbrands and applaud any brand that dares to enter a crowded arena to contribute something new. But even in a constantly shifting microbrand landscape, things can be predictable. Slimmer versions of existing dive watches and fan favorite brands jumping on the integrated bracelet bandwagon can start to feel a bit formulaic. But in a rare occurrence, I had the opportunity for surprise by spending time with two travel watches from Foliot, a brand not previously on my radar. And, spoiler alert, one of these watches actually did manage to scratch that awe inspiring itch. Fighting the urge to research brand history and sleuth for fellow enthusiast’s opinions on the forums before the mail truck arrived, I decided to go in blind with this review. Afterall, how of...