Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Doxa SUB 200T, Now With A 39mm Case
Doxa has just announced the new Doxa SUB 200T, one of their most iconic designs in a more compact 39mm case. Read more on TBWS!
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Fratello
Vintage Watches: An Omega 30T2 With A Sterling Silver Case
Today, we’ll take a closer look at a fascinating watch that I recently purchased at auction. As we’ll see, the watch brings together several notable details that separate it from other 30T2 models from the period. It was a gamble, but it has turned out to be a rewarding one thus far. I don’t often […] Visit Vintage Watches: An Omega 30T2 With A Sterling Silver Case to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Barrelhand Sends “Memory Disc” Case Back to the Moon
Best known for its Urwerk-inspired Project 1, Barrelhand is now working on the Monolith, a watch for astronauts featuring novel innovations, including an air-tight crown that can be adjusted in space or underwater. Described as a “professional grade EVA [extravehicular activity] tool watch compatible with current and next generation xEMU spacesuits”, the Monolith is a work in progress, however, a bit of it has just landed on the Moon. The case back of each Monolith will carry a “Memory Disc”, a nickel-alloy plate with 1,000 pages worth of micro-engraving. A permanent, analogue physical storage medium, it’s a time capsule of sorts. A single Memory Disc has just landed on the Moon as part of the payload on the IM-1 mission carried by the Nova-C lunar lander, nicknamed “Odysseus”, launched by Intuitive Machines, a privately-funded space exploration enterprise that has contracts with NASA to deliver cargo to the Moon. Alongside the Memory Disc, IM-1 also carried an artwork by Jeff Koons as well as a space camera, all of which will remain on the Moon (at least for now). Initial thoughts The Monolith is an interesting proposition as according to Karel Bachand, Barrelhand’s founder, the watch is developed to pass the “EVA tests originally outlined for the Apollo missions… [and] we have full documents outlining the criteria and corresponding tests it needs to pass.” Although detailed specifications of the watch are not yet available – they will be when th...
Worn & Wound
The Schofield Watch Company Introduces a New Case Shape and Size with their Field GMT
For the past 15 years, UK based Schofield Watch Company has been making watches using the same case shape and dimensions, with various color and finishing details. For 2024 they are launching a brand-new case and size, as well as a new complication. Introducing the Light, a field watch with a GMT function, which retains Schofield’s design esthetics, but at a size that should appeal to today’s sensibilities. There are two models within the Light collection. Both feature a two-piece 40mm media-blasted case with a vertically brushed bezel, and the movement powering them is the relatively new Seiko NH34 GMT. They also have domed box sapphire crystals and case backs that feature lighthouse artwork printed on a mineral glass, through which you can see parts of the movement. The aptly named The Light One, has a light gray step dial that features a cream outer ring with black printed numerals. The hour and minute hands are painted dark for contrast, with a light colored 24hr GMT lollipop hand turning within the inner stepped portion. The Dark One, in contrast, has a darker gray center dial, with a black stepped ring and white numerals. The main hands are light gray, the lollipop GMT hand is dark gray, and the case is entirely coated in black PVD. The text, branding and logo on the dials are very discreetly printed and there is no 24hr track, which makes reading the second time zone a little challenging. Therefore, a little commitment to understanding how to read the GMT ...
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Oddball Rolex Watches - Featuring The Turn-O-Graph, GMT-Master “Concorde,” Oyster Perpetual Date, And More
Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we will take a look at some oddball Rolex models. For this list, we selected five wonderfully strange cult classics. Some have a different dial that sets them apart from their regular counterparts, and some are unique models. If you are a Rolex fan, you will know about […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Oddball Rolex Watches - Featuring The Turn-O-Graph, GMT-Master “Concorde,” Oyster Perpetual Date, And More to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The New Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum Introduces a New Luminescent Composite Case Material
I’ve long been on record as an appreciator and fan of the wilder designs from Bell & Ross. Few watch brands, in fact, have a wider design purview than B&R;, which has fairly traditional aviation inspired watches at one end of the spectrum, bronze skull watches on the other, and their standard square case instrument watches right in the middle. The LUM series, an ongoing collection of watches that use luminescent material in a manner that can only be described as Maximalist, sits somewhere near the skulls, I think. Watch enthusiasts, of course, are notable in that we tend to love inventive applications of lume, but bold designs centered around the stuff still feel fairly niche. The new BR-X5 Green Lum takes the brand’s experiments with lume to a new level, giving the case itself the full lume treatment. Seeing the press release for this watch, I knew immediately that it was destined to be a new object of obsession for me, perhaps not unlike my beloved Multimeter. It takes the still relatively new BR-X5 platform, the brand’s most contemporary and forward looking case design, and gives it a visual and material transformation via the brand’s LM3D composite. This material is made from quartz fibers which are completely photoluminescent, giving off a pronounced green glow. The case is a combination of this material and DLC coated titanium, which effectively acts as a shell with large pieces of LM3D at the top and bottom of the case. The dial is matte black and serves to...
Time+Tide
The Paulin Modul sports a modular case and a choice of new-old stock quartz or modern mechanical
The Scottish brand presents their take on a modular design after acquisition from anOrdain.The post The Paulin Modul sports a modular case and a choice of new-old stock quartz or modern mechanical appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: H. Moser's Streamliner Is Back In A Smaller, Refined Case (Live Pics)
The reshaped Streamliner is more than just a new case size and dial. It's also the platform for one of Moser's most important achievements to date.
Worn & Wound
The Longines Legend Diver is Now Available in a Smaller, 39mm Case
The Longines Legend Diver is a perennial contender insofar as enthusiasts are concerned, and it truly feels like it has always been relevant. Dual crown case, distinctive hands, inner rotating bezel – these have really come to define a model that has become a core of the Longines sport watch lineup. Indeed, it was part of the opening salvo of vintage-inspired tool watches that shifted an entire industry towards that genre over the last decade; in fact there is a non-zero chance the timepiece you are wearing as you read this exists thanks in part to the Legend Diver. Lately the Spirit line has garnered a lot of attention (and for good reason) but Longines has not left its dive watch to languish. After 16(!) long years since Longines reintroduced the model back in 2007, they have refreshed their most famous dive watch. Spoiler alert: there’s a lot to like. Updates to the Legend Diver have been made both inside and out. There’s no need to bury the lede here: the most notable change is that the case has been redesigned and downsized from 42mm to 39mm. More on that in a moment. It still utilizes Longines’ exclusive L888 movement, which is now COSC certified. Longines claims their movements are cased then tested continuously for 15 days across three temperature levels and numerous positions before certification. Another notable change is that the date at 3 o’clock is now nowhere to be found. This is part of Longines’ effort in achieving ISO 6425 certification, whi...
Time+Tide
An epic mid-size battle between the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 & Grand Seiko SBGW299
Full disclosure, I have meant to have these two watches go head-to-head in battle on the site for quite some time. Fanboys like myself have long drawn comparisons between Rolex and Grand Seiko in an attempt to showcase how well-made and competitive the Japanese manufacturer’s offerings are in comparison to the behemoth that is The … ContinuedThe post An epic mid-size battle between the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 & Grand Seiko SBGW299 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Gets Titanium Carbide Case
The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 is among the great original chronograph designs to which the rules around aging just don’t seem to apply. Whether it’s the original and its many variations, or the modern reinterpretation, which we reviewed here, the Chronograph 1 is a benchmark when it comes to balancing form and function between the dial and case. Since re-introducing the Chronograph 1 in early 2022, a celebration of the watch’s 50th anniversary, Porsche Design has slowly been filling out the collection with interesting variations, largely in line with special releases from Porsche. This latest edition takes a different approach, recalling their past as a military watch, but with a civilian friendly nomenclature: Utility. The newest addition to the Chronograph 1 collection recalls details from military watches of the ‘70s, with many of the small details represented in a slightly altered manner, from unit insignia, to the tritium marking “3H” circled in red – each are repurposed to create a new, more inclusive platform called Utility. Further still, this is more than a visual exercise as the biggest feature of the new watch is the use of titanium carbide for the case, a material developed and patented by Porsche Design. The material is touted as tougher and lighter than what we presume is the titanium variation of the watch, with a titanium glass bead blasted finish on its exterior. The light gray, matte appearance is uniform with contrasting crown and push...
Time+Tide
Case thickness dictates the difference between a good watch design and a great one
Zach explains why case thickness matters and how a slim profile can elevate a watch design from good to great.The post Case thickness dictates the difference between a good watch design and a great one appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni brings a new case finish to the collection
Panerai are generally not a brand to depart from their established successes, usually riffing around the same ideas for years with subtle tweaks and colour options. That’s not a bad thing by any means, as the jumbo-sized cushion case watches are as iconic as they come. However, every now and again, they break some new … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni brings a new case finish to the collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Swatch BIOCERAMIC WHAT IF? in square case
Swatch release four new references in Bioceramic in a square case in black, gray, green and beige (blue dial). Introducing the BIOCERAMIC WHAT IF?
Time+Tide
Making the case: Solid casebacks need to make a comeback
It wasn’t so long ago that exhibition casebacks were reserved for either exquisite pieces of high horology or oddities like the Ernest Borel kaleidoscope watches. Mechanical watchmaking was either the norm or old-fashioned, so the only times people wanted to stare at a mechanical movement was when it had something special to show off. It’s … ContinuedThe post Making the case: Solid casebacks need to make a comeback appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The New Casio Oceanus Pays Tribute to the Deep Blue Sea with Spiral-Cut Sapphire Bezel Anchored by Hardened Titanium Case and Bracelet
The Oceanus might be the last thing you think about when you hear the brand name, Casio. Their elevated range of watches aren’t built with the familiar tough resin case accompanied by a soft urethane band and a digital display. Instead, Casio has elected to encase the Oceanus with titanium paired with distinguishable features that stray away from the utilitarian feel while still integrating their technological know-how in a more analog fashion. In short, this concept is what Casio refers to as, “Elegance, Technology”. The four latest additions include a limited reference and three regular production models that harness the dynamic cerulean hues of the ocean packaged in a coated titanium case and equipped with a suite of familiar features. Like the Manta S500 Series, the Oceanus OCWS6000SW2A takes the bezel and uses it as a canvas to uniquely represent the various features of the ocean. This limited production model in particular displays the movement of the ocean with a spiral-cut sapphire bezel representing the crest and trough of a traveling wave. The blue gradient of the bezel also gives the impression of the continuous motion of the ocean. Although masked by color, the sapphire bezel still allows light to penetrate through, powering the solar panel fixed beneath. As mentioned above, the case is constructed out of titanium and coated with a carbide treatment giving a powdery, sandblasted effect across the non-polished areas. Another distinguishable feature of the ...
Time+Tide
The ArtyA AquaSaphir is the first aquatic watch with a case made of sapphire crystal
Sapphire is one of the most exotic materials for a watch case these days. Notorious for being incredibly hard to work with, the material has yet to appear in more affordable models; however, ArtyA is on the right track with their new sporty summer release, the AquaSaphir. ArtyA is a small independent brand from Switzerland, … ContinuedThe post The ArtyA AquaSaphir is the first aquatic watch with a case made of sapphire crystal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
![[LIVE PICS] Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT Welcomes New 39mm Case](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/06/Longines_spirit_zulutime_06.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[LIVE PICS] Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT Welcomes New 39mm Case
Longines released the first Spirit Zulu Time last year, offering a so-called true GMT in a 42mm steel case with all the Spirit design details we’ve come to expect from Longines. As good as that watch was, the case was a bit overpowering for some wrists out there, and Longines has heard the calls for a more approachable sized GMT. This is the Zulu Time GMT in 39mm, and it captures pretty much everything we loved in the original model, in a much tidier package. This is a watch that will sit directly across from the Tudor Black Bay Pro, offering a slightly different, but similar level of appeal. The latest Zulu Time remains in the Spirit collection, and yes, the 5 applied stars remain on the dial. There are plenty of polished details to discover in places like the surround of the chapter ring, the frame of the bezel, and those aforementioned stars. Like other Spirit watches, this Zulu Time has a taste of the ornate, which might push it into slightly more interesting (or less interesting, depending on your taste) territory compared to something like the far more straightforward and tool-ish Black Bay Pro from Tudor. Longines does address the most common complaint levied against that Tudor, however. The Zulu Time 39 measures 39mm in diameter, and 13.5mm in thickness, a full millimeter clear of the Black Bay Pro. That said, I’m not sure I’d have guessed that on the wrist. It felt perfectly pleasant on my 7.25” wrist, and it didn’t immediately strike me as a thick wat...
Time+Tide
Tissot revives the trailblazing Sideral with a new forged carbon case (live pics)
The 1970s were a spawning ground for all things weird and wonderful in design, leaving behind the classical, restrained designs of the mid-century aesthetic. Bullhead chronographs, TV cases and the idea of steel as a luxury material emerged in the watch world, along with some truly unique trailblazers getting lost amid the flurry of change. … ContinuedThe post Tissot revives the trailblazing Sideral with a new forged carbon case (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Breitling Introduces New Classic AVI “Co-Pilot” With 42mm Case
Breitling revealed their modern Super AVI collection in 2021 at an airstrip in Dallas, with actual war planes and pilots on hand. We brought you live coverage right here, and as nice as we found some of the designs, the cases themselves, which clocked in at 46×15.9mm, were a tougher pill to swallow. In an attempt to address this, Breitling has introduced a new Classic AVI family into the collection, which features a more wrist-friendly 42×14.7mm case at the expense of the GMT complication found in the Super AVI family. Further still, within this release is a 41mm ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition that stays true to old school form both inside and out. The new Classic AVI watches bring the same design language we saw in the Super AVI, which itself is a reference to the Breitling reference 765 from the early ‘50s, a watch that earned the nickname “Co-Pilot” for its usefulness to pilots of the time. The Super AVI watches featured designs that drew inspiration from iconic WWII planes, and the Classic AVI collection makes use of the same schemes to great effect. This includes the P-51 Mustang, Vought F4U Corsair, Curtiss P-40 Warhawk, and Mosquito planes, which are each represented in the 4 different colorways. The newest AVI watches use the Breitling Caliber 23, which is their modified Valjoux 7753. This means the pricing is also considerably more attractive than the Super AVI collection, with prices starting at $5,800 for leather strap equipped watches, and $6,200 if you pre...
Deployant
Six watches with a smaller case for collectors with smaller wrists
In this week's article, we take a look at watches with a smaller case and select six excellent timepieces that you might want to consider.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Breitling showcases the Top Time among automotive royalty, Naoya Hida presents a new case, URWERK remain URWERK
Jumping right into another edition of the FWD, Breitling hosted a top event at Melbourne’s Dutton Garage for their Top Time line of chronographs. Inspired by iconic American cars, the Top Time pieces sat next to their respective inspirations – the Mustang, Corvette, Cobra and Thunderbird. View this post on Instagram A post … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Breitling showcases the Top Time among automotive royalty, Naoya Hida presents a new case, URWERK remain URWERK appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Seiko grows the SKX-style 5 Sports lineup by shrinking the case
Seiko’s popular 5 Sports line grows with 4 versions in a new 38mm case size Four dial colours are available from launch, including a still-trendy teal variant The drop from 42.5mm to 38mm makes the SKX-style case friendlier to a wider range of wrists There was an audible gasp from watch nerds everywhere when Seiko … ContinuedThe post Seiko grows the SKX-style 5 Sports lineup by shrinking the case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Sherpa recreates the original EPSA Super Compressor case
Dive watches are more popular than ever, especially compressor divers. These ubiquitous watches herald from a time when horological engineering was at its peak, and when man’s explorative mind had no limits. Compressor divers were built to withstand submersion whilst remaining relatively thin and were therefore comfortable to wear. This was made possible by the … ContinuedThe post Sherpa recreates the original EPSA Super Compressor case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Reaction: Rolex Gets Silly With Colorful New Oyster Perpetual & Day-Date Dials
Rolex is always the talk of Watches & Wonders, but this year the conversation focused on an unlikely watch: an Oyster Perpetual with a “Celebration Dial,” a colorful and playful creation that seems very, well, unlike Rolex? But is it, really? It garnered a lot of attention, was immediately memed, and generated some of the most fiery takes of the show. The Worn & Wound editorial team, as you’d expect, has thoughts, so we weigh in on the new Oyster Perpetual, and a similarly colorful and offbeat Day-Date, below. Zach Kazan No matter how hard brands try to prevent them, leaks of new releases are inevitable. It happened again this year with Rolex, the biggest brand of all. And while we only had hastily shared Google search results to go off of, and no actual specs or even basic information about the watches themselves, the shuttle ride to Palexpo on Day 1 was dominated by talk of gumballs. The so-called “Celebration Dial” Oyster Perpetuals, along with the spiritually related “Jigsaw” Day-Date, are as whimsical as we’ve seen Rolex in recent years. Lefty GMT aside, this isn’t a brand known for its sense of humor. So a dial filled with colorful circles (51 is the official tally) that correspond with the colors of the most recent Oyster Perpetual refresh from about 3 years ago is bound to generate the hottest of takes. What I want to know from the haters is this: who decided Rolex can’t have fun? I guess if your version of Rolex is “luxury tool watches”...
Worn & Wound
A New 3D-Printed Carbon Fiber Composite Case and an Upgraded Mechanical Altimeter Takes The Oris ProPilot Altimeter to Greater Heights
I think it’s safe to say that we’re past the initial shock and awe moments from the first couple of days of Watches & Wonders. As we all digest the barrage of releases, the next day or so is my favorite because now we really get to sift through each and every novelty to discover the watches that may have been overshadowed by the preliminary excitement. To look past the first glass case surrounded by all the fancy lights and signage to find the brand’s deep cuts from this year’s showing. Oris came out of the Watches & Wonders gates in a playful way by featuring their ProPilot x Kermit Edition, but a more serious, utilitarian ProPilot that has legitimate expedition-watch chops has also garnered some of our attention. Compared to its ProPilot predecessor, it’s significantly lighter and capable of pushing to greater heights – it’s the new ProPilot Altimeter. The Oris ProPilot Altimeter confidently stands as the only wristwatch at Watches & Wonders, and the world, to utilize an integrated mechanical altimeter. By way of some ingenious engineering and a series of numerals and markers located within the segmented dial cut-outs, as well as a metric scale (either feet or meters depending on the reference you opt for) on the rehaut, an accurate reading of your current altitude can be read. The crown at 4 o’clock signed with an “ALT SET” wordmark manages the entire altimeter system. Unscrewing the crown activates the altimeter by allowing air to enter the case. On...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Hermès H08 Gets A Facelift With New Slate-Glass Fiber Composite Case and More Colors
The Hermes H08 gets a huge refresh with a slate power and glass fiber composite case, 4 new color ways, and a much higher price tag!
Hodinkee
Introducing: The New Rolex Daytona With Redesigned Case And New Caliber 4131
With a slightly redesigned case and bezel, too.
Time+Tide
The Rolex Explorer 40 showcases a new 40mm case
The discontinuation of the 39mm Rolex Explorer was a surprise, and its 36mm replacement, though a return to original sizing, left many wondering what Rolex had up its sleeves. Naturally, the crown had a plan, and it has now come to light in form of the new Rolex Explorer 40. Its simplicity remains untarnished, offering … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Explorer 40 showcases a new 40mm case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Tudor Black Bay 54 shrinks to the original 37mm case
The new Tudor Black Bay 54 takes its inspiration from the 1954 reference 7922. Its 37mm case offers a great gender netural option for accurate vintage vibes. The steel bracelet is fitted with Tudor’s T-fit clasp. For thousands of watch collectors, the introduction of the Black Bay 58 was a phenomenal release that turned even … ContinuedThe post The Tudor Black Bay 54 shrinks to the original 37mm case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.