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Formex Introduces the Second Generation of their Contemporary Take on the Classic Field Watch Worn & Wound
Formex Introduces May 27, 2025

Formex Introduces the Second Generation of their Contemporary Take on the Classic Field Watch

Ever since its introduction, the Formex Field Automatic has been a favorite of enthusiasts in search of a modern twist on the tried and true field watch. At the same time, it also felt a little like an outlier in the Formex collection. For a brand that has built a reputation on clever manufacturing innovations, the Field was remarkably simple and, for Formex, pretty subdued. That’s the nature, though, of a field watch, and at the end of the day, Formex’s version of it has always been a well made, if rudimentary, take on the genre. For the Field Automatic Gen 2, Formex has mostly stuck with what worked with the first Field, but upped the complexity of the dial and, as you’d expect, added some new colors to the collection.  Available in three colors (Ice Blue, Coho Salmon, and Basalt Grey), the new dial design adds considerable depth and texture to the experience of the Formex Field. Each dial is constructed from two parts, a center section with a sunburst finish and a sloped minute track that gives the dial what the brand refers to as a “saucer-like” profile. Adding to the perception of depth on the new dials is an hour track positioned between the minute track and central section with a contrasting smooth texture and recessed, stenciled, lume filled numerals. Formex’s stated goal here is to create a three dimensional effect, something that we don’t normally associate with the typically “flat” dials of most field watches.  The case is unchanged from the ...

The Greatest Collectors of All Time: Courtenay Adrian Ilbert – A Passionate and Meticulous Collector with an Extraordinary Dedication to Horology Worn & Wound
May 27, 2025

The Greatest Collectors of All Time: Courtenay Adrian Ilbert – A Passionate and Meticulous Collector with an Extraordinary Dedication to Horology

“The Greatest Collectors of All Time” is a series of features that will look at what drives a collector to collect and how they go about seeking out items they want for their collections. Here we look back through time to highlight the greatest horological collectors and showcase their particular area and passion for collecting. Courtenay Adrian Ilbert (1888–1956) was one of the most notable horological collectors of all time. He had the wealth, passion and enthusiasm that enabled him to amass an immense and varied collection. This was at a formative time when many unrecognized horological gems were coming to the market due to a developing appreciation of technical horology and world circumstances. His collection, known as the Ilbert Collection, included an impressive array of timepieces from the 16th century to his time, featuring some of the rarest and most exquisite watches, clocks, and horological instruments. Professionally, Ilbert was an engineer, and his technical knowledge informed his horological expertise. His engineering insights helped him appreciate the intricate workings of the timepieces he collected and restored. He was an extremely fine craftsman taking infinite patience in the matter of restoration and repair. Courtenay Adrian Ilbert (1888–1956) Born in Reading, Berkshire during the Victorian era, on the 22nd April 1888, his family background provided him with the stability and resources to pursue an excellent education. From a young age, Ilbert ...

Is Now The Best Time To Buy A Used Tudor Black Bay 58? Fratello
Tudor Black Bay 58? May 25, 2025

Is Now The Best Time To Buy A Used Tudor Black Bay 58?

The Tudor Black Bay 58 (formerly “Fifty-Eight”) was a smash hit when it debuted in 2018. At Watches and Wonders this year, the winning formula received an update. For that reason, now is as good a time as any to consider picking up one of the previous versions on the used market. Tudor’s Black Bay […] Visit Is Now The Best Time To Buy A Used Tudor Black Bay 58? to read the full article.

New Rolex Oyster Perpetual Dial Colors You May Have Missed Fratello
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Dial Colors May 24, 2025

New Rolex Oyster Perpetual Dial Colors You May Have Missed

Though it’s quite easy to forget this when looking at the watch world, sometimes less is more, and simpler is better. Simpler, however, is often much harder to get right. Poor design is easily covered in layers of otherwise unnecessary embellishments. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual presents simplicity at its very finest. Rolex added two new […] Visit New Rolex Oyster Perpetual Dial Colors You May Have Missed to read the full article.

Omega Relaunches the Railmaster in Two New Dial Variants Worn & Wound
Omega Relaunches May 23, 2025

Omega Relaunches the Railmaster in Two New Dial Variants

Originally released in 1957 as part of Omega’s “Professional Line” trilogy, the Railmaster joined the Seamaster and Speedmaster as the brand’s offerings to professionals in railway, automotive racing, and ocean diving, respectively. Where it lacked in naming convention creativity, the original Railmaster excelled in innovation, with anit-magnetic properties that were, at the time, jaw-droppingly effective, protecting the watch from magnetic fields of up to 1,000 gauss, where other pieces tended to cap out at 60 gauss. It’s no surprise, then, that the Professional Line trio has remained among Omega’s most popular and iconic models, and 2025 sees the launch of two new stainless steel Railmaster models.  Both new Railmasters measure in at 38mm in diameter and wear all-new gradient dials. The first variant bears no text details save for the Omega logo below the 12 numeral and the Railmaster name in script above the 6, with a gray dial that fades into a black gradient. The second option shakes it up with a beige-into-black dial that squishes the Omega logo and Railmaster logo together under the 12, and places a small seconds subdial above the 6. Both models feature Super-Luminova on the numerals, indexes, and hands, and come on a leather strap-black for the gray-to-black model and Novonappa brown for the beige-to-black version-or a stainless steel bracelet.    Inside, Omega’ Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8806 movement proves that it’s leaps and boun...

TAG Heuer Unveils The Super Cool Retro Monaco Chronograph Stopwatch Fratello
TAG Heuer Unveils May 23, 2025

TAG Heuer Unveils The Super Cool Retro Monaco Chronograph Stopwatch

After a first look at all three TAG Heuer watches that came out today, this was the one that I immediately got excited about. There is just something about the retro looks of the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Stopwatch that screams “cool!” This new 970-piece limited edition takes inspiration from the Heuer stopwatches from the […] Visit TAG Heuer Unveils The Super Cool Retro Monaco Chronograph Stopwatch to read the full article.

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Tudor Pelagos Ultra Worn & Wound
Tudor Pelagos Ultra Every year May 22, 2025

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Tudor Pelagos Ultra

Every year, the watch industry plays the popular game “my favorite release from Watches and Wonders”. We try to pick unique watches, offer a unique perspective on them, and potentially shine a light on a model that we think deserves the title. However, I genuinely believe that if you told every one of those journalists that they had to purchase a watch announced at the show, roughly half would choose a different piece. They would most likely select something that suits their style better, fits into their collection, or maybe doesn’t shine as the most impressive piece but is still the one they want to take home. I am guilty of this. For two years in a row now, my “forced to purchase” choice has been a Tudor watch. Last year, the Black Bay ‘Monochrome’ made my purchasing shortlist further cemented after I had the chance to go hands-on with it for an extended period. The new black on black color scheme looked great, the METAS-certified caliber is impressive, and that five-link bracelet just wears incredibly well. But while last year’s Black Bay “Monochrome” was simply a new color extension, the Pelagos Ultra redefines the collection while setting a few benchmarks along the way. Touted as Tudor’s most technologically advanced watch yet, it somehow stuffs the stat sheet while remaining wearable. The lightweight case crafted from grade 2 titanium with a grade 5 caseback wears better than the 43mm diameter might lead on. At 14.5mm thick with a lug-to-lug of ...

Hands-On With The New 2nd-Generation Formex Field Automatic Fratello
Formex Field Automatic Formex May 22, 2025

Hands-On With The New 2nd-Generation Formex Field Automatic

Formex is known for packing a ton of punch in relatively affordable watches. The brand’s offerings are rich with features and well made at very competitive prices. None exemplifies this more than the brand’s entry-level model, the Formex Field Automatic. Today, I am delighted to introduce the second generation of the watch. Now, the cynical […] Visit Hands-On With The New 2nd-Generation Formex Field Automatic to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: The Best Watches Under €2,500 In 2025 Fratello
May 22, 2025

Fratello Talks: The Best Watches Under €2,500 In 2025

Today, we’re looking at some of the best watches under €2,500 in production right now. This is one of the most contested price points in the watch market, though many brands that previously operated in it have slowly but surely priced themselves out. That said, a handful of microbrands, both new and old, have made […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Best Watches Under €2,500 In 2025 to read the full article.

Hands-On: the Vaer G5 Meridian GMT Worn & Wound
May 20, 2025

Hands-On: the Vaer G5 Meridian GMT

Before receiving the G5 Meridian, I had what I thought was a clear idea of Vaer in my head: mil-spec watches at an affordable price. Founded in Venice, California in 2016, the brand has built themselves a reputation of earnest capability and practical styling that appeals to budding enthusiasts looking for an everyday watch that leans towards rugged simplicity rather than fast-fashion. Vaer watches have been built in the States since 2018, with their first mechanical piece coming to market in 2019.  Whether through my own lack of in-depth research or via social media algorithms showing me exclusively the brand’s field watches for some reason, I had apparently missed the relatively diverse other half of their catalog, spearheaded by the release of their first dive watch in 2020, first solar diver in 2021, and first chronograph in 2022. Since then, they’ve expanded each category into multiple references that cover a wide array of functions and styles, shirking my own narrow-minded ideas and, apparently, their own social media advertising algorithms. Thus, with a heap of welcome and humble surprise, I received the new G5 Meridian GMT and began my Vaer re-education. Unboxing My G5 arrived in a slim navy box with a clean, minimalistic design-appropriate for its price range, but not “cheap”-feeling in any way. I prefer minimal packaging (what the hell am I going to do with all these empty boxes anyways), and Vaer has done a nice job presenting the G5 as a serious, ent...

Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro 3.0 Chronograph Mini Tapisserie Clous De Paris Fratello
Gerald Charles May 20, 2025

Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro 3.0 Chronograph Mini Tapisserie Clous De Paris

Gerald Charles has rolled out a steady slate of releases in support of its 25th anniversary. Among these debuts are new versions of the Maestro 3.0 Chronograph, which feature métiers d’art in the form of tapisserie Clous de Paris dials. The releases also include two case materials. I spent time at the Gerald Charles booth […] Visit Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro 3.0 Chronograph Mini Tapisserie Clous De Paris to read the full article.

Maurice de Mauriac Pays Tribute to the Hotel Concierge with their Latest Release Worn & Wound
May 20, 2025

Maurice de Mauriac Pays Tribute to the Hotel Concierge with their Latest Release

Over the last year or two, I’ve been traveling more and more for work. More often than not, I’ve found the experience impersonal at best. Thanks to the new invention of “contactless check-in”, I am usually greeted by a row of iPads, making it feel more like I’ve made a 4-day reservation at a Genius Bar versus a holiday in Malibu. You see, like glass-blowing or macrame, hospitality is a dying art. The ability to make one feel welcomed isn’t as simple as having a few brochures at the front desk; but, instead, it’s an immeasurable talent that turns a two-night stay into an experience.  Luckily, there are a few good men fighting the good fight. An entire network of them, actually, called Les Clefs d’Or. Since 1952, this international organization has dedicated itself to the art of hospitality through its 4,000 members, making it one of the largest organizations of its kind. While many hotels now have a new-hire sit at a podium labeled CONCIERGE to hand out brochures of local attractions, the members of Les Clefs d’Or understands that a concierge is an untapped resource, giving you tips on where to eat, what to do, and he may pull a few strings to get you that hard-to-come-by table at the local Michelin-starred joint down the block.  Now, of course for me, the imagination starts running when I think of a private organization of hotel professionals who are maintaining the old guard of hospitality. One might even be reminded of The Society of the Crossed Keys ...

Visiting NASA And Axiom Space In Houston To Celebrate The 60th Anniversary Of The Omega Speedmaster’s Flight Qualification Fratello
Omega Speedmaster’s Flight Qualification As May 20, 2025

Visiting NASA And Axiom Space In Houston To Celebrate The 60th Anniversary Of The Omega Speedmaster’s Flight Qualification

As Nacho pointed out a few weeks ago, 2025 marks the 60th anniversary of NASA’s qualification of the Speedmaster for use in space. As you’ve probably noticed, there’s no new Omega Speedmaster Professional to commemorate this qualification by NASA. Instead, the folks at Omega chose to discuss the Speedmaster’s qualification on the brand’s social media […] Visit Visiting NASA And Axiom Space In Houston To Celebrate The 60th Anniversary Of The Omega Speedmaster’s Flight Qualification to read the full article.

Hot Take: The New MB&F; SP One Is Classic MB&F; Yet Anything But Fratello
MB&F; May 20, 2025

Hot Take: The New MB&F; SP One Is Classic MB&F; Yet Anything But

What happens when one of horology’s most radical voices tries its hand at something classically elegant? You get the MB&F; SP One. At just 38mm across and 12mm thick, it’s the smallest and slimmest watch the brand has ever made. But don’t let that fool you. This might be a more compact, dress-watch-adjacent MB&F;, but […] Visit Hot Take: The New MB&F; SP One Is Classic MB&F; Yet Anything But to read the full article.

Blancpain Swatch Review Teddy Baldassarre
Blancpain May 18, 2025

Blancpain Swatch Review

The origin of Blancpain x Swatch is the story of two vastly different watchmakers. One is the oldest watch brand in the world, in existence since 1735, and renowned for making some of the most high-end luxury timepieces in the industry, regularly carrying prices of thousands or even tens of thousands of dollars. The other traces its origins only to the 1980s and made its name by producing plastic-cased, mass-market fashion watches for youthful consumers at average prices around $300. Through a convoluted series of events arising from watch-industry upheavals in the late 1990s and early 2000s, the newbie department-store brand bought the historical prestige brand, making it part of a modern-day Murderers Row of legacy watchmakers within what is now known as the Swatch Group. Both brands continued to do what they did best, and never did their efforts really intersect. Blancpain has adhered to its philosophy of never, in its almost-300-year history, making a watch with a quartz movement. Swatch, by contrast, was the brand that brought quartz into the mainstream of Swiss watchmaking in the first place, and still uses quartz movements in most (but not all) of its voluminous output of watches. But the watchword (no pun intended) of the 21st Century timepiece industry seems increasingly to be, Never Say Never. The Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch (Obviously) Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch "Mission On Earth" In 2022 came a scenario that was somehow both unthinkable and inevitable at the same ...

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Datejust Models With Exotic Dials Fratello
Rolex Datejust Models May 16, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Datejust Models With Exotic Dials

This week’s Top 5 list is a follow-up to last week’s list. You seemed to enjoy the article about some of the stunning, exotic dials that Rolex has used for its flagship model, the Day-Date. This week, we will look at some of the exotic dials that the Genevan brand has used for the Datejust. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Datejust Models With Exotic Dials to read the full article.

Introducing: An Icy New White-Dial Variant Of The 39mm Longines Legend Diver Fratello
Longines Legend Diver May 16, 2025

Introducing: An Icy New White-Dial Variant Of The 39mm Longines Legend Diver

The 39mm Longines Legend Diver is one of those rare watches that all of us at Fratello HQ like. While most watches spark at least some kind of debate among Fratello editors, the Legend Diver is universally admired. So when Longines releases a new dial variant, we pay attention, especially when it is a crisp […] Visit Introducing: An Icy New White-Dial Variant Of The 39mm Longines Legend Diver to read the full article.

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Marathon May 15, 2025

Windup in a Bay 2025: Campfires, Cold Water, Watches, and Gear with Marathon Watch Company and Prometheus Design Werx

The second annual Windup in a Bay expedition brought the Windup spirit straight to the Monterey Bay Area, running in tandem with the Windup Watch Fair San Francisco. This year’s adventure wasn’t just about diving-it was about building a full-circle experience, starting with a scenic campout at Elkhorn Ranch, and culminating in an open-water dive off the dramatic coast of Carmel. Returning as the dive watch sponsor was Marathon, whose reputation for hard-use, no-nonsense dive watches is second to none. New to the mix: Prometheus Design Werx, coming aboard as the official gear sponsor and loading out the crew with equipment designed to meet every challenge, whether by land or by sea. The post Windup in a Bay 2025: Campfires, Cold Water, Watches, and Gear with Marathon Watch Company and Prometheus Design Werx appeared first on Worn & Wound.

A Hands-On Introduction To The New Omega Railmaster With A Beige Or Gray Gradient Dial Fratello
Omega Railmaster May 15, 2025

A Hands-On Introduction To The New Omega Railmaster With A Beige Or Gray Gradient Dial

With recent Speedmaster and Seamaster releases, Omega quietly put the new watches on its ambassadors’ wrists to hint at what was coming. We could have missed it, but we don’t think the same happened with the newly revised Railmaster. Supposedly, there was a leaked image, but it came with very little information. Luckily, we’ve recently […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The New Omega Railmaster With A Beige Or Gray Gradient Dial to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: The Best Modern Omega Speedmasters Fratello
Omega Speedmasters It’s no secret May 15, 2025

Fratello Talks: The Best Modern Omega Speedmasters

It’s no secret that we’re Speedmaster fans here at Fratello. RJ, our founder, is an avid collector of these chronographs and the mind behind #SpeedyTuesday. But not all Speedies are created equal. Today, we’re looking at some of the best modern Omega Speedmaster models. RJ, Thomas, and Nacho have tasked themselves with selecting their top […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Best Modern Omega Speedmasters to read the full article.

Rolex Explorer II 16570: The Best Value Rolex GMT Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex May 14, 2025

Rolex Explorer II 16570: The Best Value Rolex GMT

My first Rolex was an Explorer II 216570 with black dial and I absolutely loved that watch. It was rarer than the GMT-Master II or Submariner, and didn’t have the ceramic bezel, which I found to be a little too glossy and “luxe” for what I was looking for in a watch at the time. I kept and wore the heck out of that watch for almost six years until I just felt like it didn’t speak to me anymore. The 42mm wide “Maxi” case seemed too big and the big, thick hour and minutes hands just began to bug me. I can’t explain why I was so dead set on the 216570 rather than the older 16570 at the time but I can certainly say that now, in 2025, the Rolex Explorer II 16570 is not just my preferred iteration of the modern spelunking watch, but an all-timer from Rolex. I’ve started to refer to the 16570 as a “Forever Rolex” because it ticks all the boxes - size, reliability, dual-time functionality, and discrete aesthetics - all while remaining one of the few Rolexes that isn’t immediately recognizable to every casual observer. Let’s take a look at why I’m such a big fan of this old-school Rolex. Case and Specs: The Other Rolex GMT Measuring 40mm wide and 12.2mm thick with a 47mm lug-to-lug height, the 16570 is an eminently wearable Rolex. And while this is very obviously a sport/tool watch, these proportions make for a very versatile and subdued piece. No, there isn’t a rotating bezel with a nickname-ready color combo here. Rather, there is a demure, fixed ...

Naoya Hida & Co. Has Announced their 2025 Releases Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe May 14, 2025

Naoya Hida & Co. Has Announced their 2025 Releases

Seeing a watch made by Naoya Hida & Co. in person for the first time was one of those moments when you truly realize that you have to experience a watch in the metal before casting judgement. At the time, the brand was only in its second full year, and most of the people commenting on the watches in online forums, Instagram, etc. were reacting to what they perceived as an exorbitant price tag. These specific watches, after all, used a (highly) modified Valjoux 7750 as the base movement – not exactly high horology. But when you handle one of these watches, wear it, and, importantly, turn the crown, you realize you’re dealing with an object that’s largely handmade, a fully fleshed out complete thought with a singular perspective. That’s a pretty rare thing, as are the hand carved dials that have become an aesthetic signature of the brand, and truly require magnification to fully grapple with. Naoya Hida & Co. has just unveiled their new slate of watches for 2025, and I imagine we’re heading for some of the same conversations we’ve heard before, but there’s a new watch in this crop of releases that should quiet at least some of the naysayers.  The marquee release in this year’s lineup is the NH Type 6A, Naoya Hida’s most complicated watch to date and their first perpetual calendar. The 6A is made in the same vintage inspired style as all of Naoya Hida’s other watches, evoking classic pieces by Patek Philippe and others (but mostly Patek, let’s be honest...

Hands-On With The Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Mecaquartz Salmon Fratello
Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Mecaquartz Salmon Many May 14, 2025

Hands-On With The Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Mecaquartz Salmon

Many love an excellent mecaquartz chronograph. Brands can spend more money on the looks of such watches thanks to their affordable movements. These watches often punch above their weight, at least visually. Others say they are cheap interpretations of the real deal, a timepiece with a mechanical movement. I received the new Nivada Chronosport Blue […] Visit Hands-On With The Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Mecaquartz Salmon to read the full article.

“Patina” or Damage? Scrutinizing the Fine Line Between Pleasing and Pesky Imperfections Worn & Wound
Rado x involves May 13, 2025

“Patina” or Damage? Scrutinizing the Fine Line Between Pleasing and Pesky Imperfections

The Ship of Theseus paradox involves the legendary vessel that Theseus––a Greek mythological hero who rescued the children of Athens and slayed the Minotaur of Crete––traveled on. To honor his valiant efforts, the Athenians preserved the ship and, over time, swapped parts that decayed or had become damaged, eventually replacing all of its original components. This, in turn, begs the question: is it still Theseus’ ship even if all the parts have been replaced? If not, at what point did it cease to be the original?  Now that our history lecture is over, I want to utilize this idea of time and identity to talk about a topic near and dear to our watch-collecting hearts: patina. A number of journalists and enthusiasts have discussed what patina is, how it can be defined in a horological sense, and the many forms it can take, but no one (to my knowledge) has discussed when deterioration or damage becomes patina. This may seem like a rather abstract subject to discuss, but most, if not all, collectors take condition into consideration when shopping for a watch. The two main questions that will help get to the bottom of this patina paradox are: 1.) At what point does damage become patina? and 2.) Is patina just a buzzword to market a watch with lots of aesthetic flaws?  The Evolution of Flaws to Patina One of patina’s most essential characteristics is its dependability on age. The natural degradation of luminous material, the color-changing properties of a dial often...

Grand Seiko Snowflake Review Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko May 12, 2025

Grand Seiko Snowflake Review

  The Grand Seiko “Snowflake” is not just a watch that helped define Grand Seiko as a luxury brand to be reckoned with in the 21st Century: it is also at the vanguard of an industry-wide movement toward making dials more beautiful, enticing, and unique - not only with the bold use of color, but with textures that play with the concept of 3D space and the interplay of light and shadow. Nearly every Grand Seiko model of note can claim a dial (and often a nickname) with a distinctly eye-catching motif, usually inspired by the breathtaking natural wonders of the company’s native Japan. Other luxury watch brands have noticed and followed suit - from luxury leaders like Rolex,  Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet, to attainable brands like little-brother Seiko and its main competitor, Citizen. The “Snowflake,” Grand Seiko’s first and still most famous textured dial, is arguably the OG of this trend; here is the story of how it came to be and where it stands today. As success stories for new watch brands go, it’s hard to find a better case study in the past decade than Grand Seiko. The Japanese high-luxury watchmaker has, in its relatively short stint in the international market, elevated itself in the eyes of many collectors to the upper echelon of watchmaking prestige and collectibility, competing for connoisseur attention and dollars with well-established maisons from Switzerland and Germany. This plaudit, of course, comes with a caveat: Grand Seiko is not ...