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The Breitling Pop-Up Museum In Zurich And Why You Should Visit - Chapter 2: Air Fratello
Breitling Pop-Up Museum Feb 1, 2025

The Breitling Pop-Up Museum In Zurich And Why You Should Visit - Chapter 2: Air

On November 30th, Fratello published my first article about Breitling’s pop-up museum in Zurich, which celebrates the brand’s 140th anniversary. In that article, I covered three gems showcased at the museum under one of Breitling’s three universes - Sea. Today, we will cover three essential pieces of Breitling’s next universe - Air. Be sure to […] Visit The Breitling Pop-Up Museum In Zurich And Why You Should Visit - Chapter 2: Air to read the full article.

Price of Admission: What Are The Least Expensive Breguet Watches? Teddy Baldassarre
Breguet Jan 31, 2025

Price of Admission: What Are The Least Expensive Breguet Watches?

For those in the know, Breguet is a name in the history of watchmaking that commands instant respect, and even reverence. The brand’s legendary founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, is rightfully lauded as the inventor of the tourbillon, but his lifetime horological resumé goes far beyond even that: he made the first self-winding movement, the first watch that was wound by a crown rather than a key, the pare-chute shock protection system, and the gong system for repeater watches, among other innovations. His customers included historical figures like King Louis XVI of France, Queen Marie-Antoinette, and Napoleon Bonaparte. He even invented a style of hands that many other watchmakers other than Breguet still use today. The modern brand that bears his name is one of the undisputed, upper-echelon Swiss watch maisons, alongside names like Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet, and the jewel in the crown of the Swatch Group.  All that said and acknowledged, a newcomer to Breguet, especially the prospective owner of his or her first Breguet watch, may find all of this background intimidating. And make no mistake, Breguet is unapologetic in both its embrace of historical renown and its timepieces’ exalted level of luxury. The brand’s modern-day stewards harbor no illusion that they offer anything that would be any aficionado’s “first watch.” The whole concept of “entry level” must be stretched a bit at this venerated tier of watchmaking: like Patek Philippe, A. Lan...

Meeting My Grail: The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph Fratello
Rolex Submariner ref 5508 Today Jan 29, 2025

Meeting My Grail: The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph

Working at Fratello has its perks. One of them is that, on rare occasions, we get access to our absolute grail watches. I had such an experience just a few months ago when I spent time with a Rolex Submariner ref. 5508. Today, I get yet another such opportunity. It’s my pleasure to go hands-on […] Visit Meeting My Grail: The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph to read the full article.

Raymond Weil Introduces the Millesime Shellman Edition SJX Watches
Breguet numeral Jan 28, 2025

Raymond Weil Introduces the Millesime Shellman Edition

Japanese retailer Shellman has given Raymond Weil’s vintage-inspired Millesime a gentle makeover with the Millesime Centre Seconds Shellman Limited Edition. While staying faithful to the original in overall style, the Shellman edition incorporates numerous subtle tweaks that reflect the detail-oriented approach of Japanese watch enthusiasts. The Shellman edition features a domed, “sector” dial with a two-tone “champagne gold” finish with a single Breguet numeral at 12 o’clock. But more notable is the case, which resembles the standard version on its face, but is actually thinner at just 9.25 mm, giving the watch a surprisingly slim profile. Initial thoughts In keeping with Shellman’s past limited editions, the new Millesime is vintage inspired and thoughtfully designed. Though it resembles the standard models in many ways, the Shellman edition is substantively different in several key respects, including with the two-tone, domed dial and thinner case. These refinements enhance the vintage flavour of the watch, and also give it better proportions. However, the typography for the brand name and “Automatic” is identical to that of the standard model. While the modern font doesn’t have the same vintage feel as the rest of the design, the print is in dark grey and less prominent. The Shellman edition is priced at JPY308,000 with taxes, or around US$1,950, which is about the same as the standard model. With its greater appeal and limited numbers, it is an ea...

Hands-On With An Unsung And Humble Hero - The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm In Steel Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Jan 27, 2025

Hands-On With An Unsung And Humble Hero - The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm In Steel

It predates the Nautilus, Ingenieur, and Overseas and debuted three years after the Royal Oak. So why is the Girard-Perregaux Laureato, a very relevant 1970s timepiece, not on the same appreciation level as the other luxurious sports watches with an integrated bracelet? It’s not just the Genta name missing because the 222, the predecessor of […] Visit Hands-On With An Unsung And Humble Hero - The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm In Steel to read the full article.

Up Close: Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé Repeater Triple-Axis Tourbillon SJX Watches
Breguet numerals Jan 27, 2025

Up Close: Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé Repeater Triple-Axis Tourbillon

Hermès is a brand with a distinctive, often whimsical, visual identity that translates well across products, even on its most complicated watches like the Arceau Duc Attelé, which combines a triple-axis central tourbillon (containing a high-frequency escapement) with a minute repeater featuring novel “tuning fork” gongs. Large, thick, and very complex, the Duc Attelé still manages to capture the elegant aesthetic of the brand, even in subtle details of the H1926 movement, like horse-shaped hammers for the repeater. Customised for Hermès, the calibre has an intricate, dense construction but is recognisable as being produced by a specialist. Initial thoughts The Duc Attelé demonstrates the strength of the Hermès house style. On the front, it looks elegant despite the size, while the movement feels appropriate even though it is third party. The watch does sit big on the wrist, though the titanium version is a little lighter in weight and visually smaller due to its dark colours. But the Arceau case has tiny lugs, so it doesn’t feel clunky. And although the case is almost 20 mm high, a good part of that is due to the highly domed crystal that accommodates the tourbillon’s height. All of the design elements, however, give it an elegant feel. These include the Breguet numerals on the domed chapter ring and the “Lift” motif tourbillon cage modelled on the elevator in the brand’s flagship store in Paris. But more than anything else, this is a watch characterise...

Introducing A Bold New Effort: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence Fratello
Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence New releases Jan 25, 2025

Introducing A Bold New Effort: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence

New releases do not often surprise us at Fratello. Once you know the brands and follow their developments for long enough, most new watches feel somewhat familiar or expected. Well, today’s release does not fall within that category. Today, we welcome the new Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence collection in the montre à guichet layout. Louis […] Visit Introducing A Bold New Effort: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence to read the full article.

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon Worn & Wound
Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon Following Jan 22, 2025

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon

Following the release of the Longines Ultra-Chron in 2022, a revival of a very specific reference from 1968, Longines adds to the model family with the new Ultra-Chron Carbon. This model comes from a more modern age with a carbon and titanium construction, a monochromatic motif, and the same high-frequency automatic caliber inside. Initially, though, it is hard to tell if this model is meant to be an evolution of the former or an extension of the overall family. While there may still be some similarities to its sibling model, this new version does have its differences, which are important to note.  As the only carbon case piece currently being offered by the brand, it is interesting that Longines decided to introduce it in the oft-overlooked Ultra-Chron collection rather than its more popular offerings like the Spirit Zulu Time or the Conquest. Potentially a byproduct of the simpler case architecture being a bit more friendly to the material, the forged carbon does seem to look right at home molded into the cushion case shape. $4900 [VIDEO] Hands-On: the Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon Case Forged carbon Movement L836 Dial Anthracite Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Sailcloth Water Resistance 300 meters Dimensions 43 x 48.6mm Thickness 14.1mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $4900 Before taking a closer look, my mind immediately began to look back at a release from last year coming from another Swatch Group brand, the Tissot Sideral S, ready to call out similari...

Gérald Genta Introduces the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal SJX Watches
Gerald Genta Jan 21, 2025

Gérald Genta Introduces the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal

Gérald Genta distinctive, punkish “urchin” wristwatch gains a striking new look with the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal. Each of the 137 studs on the case carries a fire opal, while the dial is in orange carnelian that echoes the gemstones’ hue. Mined from Mexico’s volcanic regions, fire opals stones derive their characteristic yellow, orange, or red pigmentation from water trapped in cooling lava. Initial thoughts Although the Gérald Genta brand was revived in 2023, well after the iconic designer’s passing in 2011, the brand has stuck closely to his original vision and style. The modern-day Oursin is a faithful remake of the 1994 original, a little larger in size but retaining all of the original’s quirky details, including the facetted crystal. Unlike the fairly muted models unveiled last year, the new Oursin is bright and bold. While it incorporates gemstones and colours that found on the original (which was also fairly muted), the orange hue feels perfectly appropriate for the design. It is an apt evolution of the original, and the late Genta would have approved. Fire opals While the new Oursin differs from Genta’s original with its fire opals and carnelian, the core design elements remain faithful to his blueprint. Crafted from 18k yellow gold, the case measures 36.5 mm in diameter and 9.64 mm in thickness, making it slightly larger than the original. The case is studded with 137 fire opals, each individually secured with 18k yellow gold pins. An orange...

Daniel Roth Unveils Extra Plat Souscription SJX Watches
Blancpain Jan 21, 2025

Daniel Roth Unveils Extra Plat Souscription

Continuing with its revival, Daniel Roth debuts its second modern-day timepiece, the Extra Plat Souscription. Hewing to the formula established by the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Plat Souscription stays faithful to the 1990s original in size and style, but is equipped with an all-new calibre developed from the ground up. Like the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Plat Souscription debuts as a 20-piece limited edition in 18k yellow gold, matched with a guilloche dial in solid 18k yellow gold. Initial thoughts As with the Tourbillon before it, the Extra Plat Souscription looks and feels like the original at a distance, but reveals a higher degree of refinement up close. This is especially evident on the dial that is covered in finely grained guilloche, done with a hand-operated straight-line engine. In fact, the Extra Plat is arguably more sophisticated than the equivalent original, more so than the Tourbillon. The 1990s-era model was fitted with Frederic Piguet movements, either manual-wind or automatic depending on the variant, which were fine calibres but relatively industrial and widely used by higher-end brands like Blancpain. The DR002 in the new Extra Plat, on the other hand, is a new construction with the refinements expected in a watch of this calibre (and price). It’s shame that the movement is concealed behind a solid back, but that will become an open back with the subsequent, regular-production version. While the new Extra Plat is a beautiful homage th...

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Hand Made 2 SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Hand Made 2 Jan 21, 2025

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Hand Made 2

In a fortuitous turn of events, Mark Zuckerberg was spotted with the Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 just a week ago – just in time for the debut of the Hand Made 2. Unlike its predecessor that was equipped with a tourbillon, the Hand Made 2 is “merely” a three-hander with a power reserve indicator, presented in a more compact case that’s just under 41 mm. But like the first model, the Hand Made 2 is mostly made with traditional, hand-operated tools – specifically, 96% of the watch is made this way, an endeavour that requires 5,000 hours of work according to Greubel Forsey. (NB: The watch pictured is a prototype and is not perfectly clean.) Initial thoughts The Hand Made 2 is essentially the Hand Made 1 scaled down in every respect – dimensions, complexity, and price – except for the manual production methods and fine finishing, which remain impressive and outstanding. Even at arm’s length the quality of the Hand Made 2 is obvious. Up close, it is evident all of the details have been properly taken care of. As it was with the Hand Made 1, the second edition is also impressive for what cannot be seen – tolerances and precision that are equivalent to Greubel Forsey’s serial-production watches made with automated equipment. Achieving that with manual equipment is impressive and no doubt explains a good deal of the price. Surprisingly, the Hand Made 2 looks more complicated than its predecessor, despite doing away with the tourbillon. That’s because the archit...

Compromise In Colors Is Gray - Brighten Up Your Life With The Multicolored Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified Jan 18, 2025

Compromise In Colors Is Gray - Brighten Up Your Life With The Multicolored Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified

Who would have thought a quote from the current Albanian prime minister would be the header of a Fratello article? It was Edi Rama (1964), who is not just a politician but also an artist and writer, who once said, “Compromise in colors is gray.” Too often, people make the safe choice of going for a […] Visit Compromise In Colors Is Gray - Brighten Up Your Life With The Multicolored Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified to read the full article.

eBay Finds: A Vintage Grand Seiko, a Stunning Waffle Dial from Longines, and a Fun Seiko LCD Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Jan 17, 2025

eBay Finds: A Vintage Grand Seiko, a Stunning Waffle Dial from Longines, and a Fun Seiko LCD

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Seiko LCD Alarm Chronograph  Here’s a neat vintage Seiko LCD alarm chronograph from the 1980’s. Seller says 1985, but the serial number says March 1987. Either way, this is a cool piece. Classic 80’s slim profile, with an unpolished stainless steel case and matching steel Jubilee-ish style Seiko bracelet. The watch is in great shape, and the screen looks like all the segments work. Seller states all the functions work as well. The caseback even has the original sticker still present. Great bit of fun that shouldn’t stress your watch budget.  View auction here Vintage Clebar  Next up is this beautiful vintage Clebar three register chronograph. The 36mm stainless steel case looks unpolished with sharp edges, and a snap on caseback. The silver dial is super clean and has that classic Heuer Carrera look to it. This one features old-style square (rectangular really…) pushers, which is a great look I think. The watch is powered by a manual wind Venus caliber 178 movement that is clean and works well per the seller. You really can’t beat a vintage chronograph like this one. And with the Clebar name instead of Heuer or Longines, the price should remain reasonable.  View ...

Retrospective: Tomas Breaks Prejudices With A Barrel-Shaped Gallet Powered By A Fine Excelsior Park Movement Fratello
Jan 16, 2025

Retrospective: Tomas Breaks Prejudices With A Barrel-Shaped Gallet Powered By A Fine Excelsior Park Movement

Every journey has an end and inspires us to set out on a new adventure. Today, we celebrate #TBT, one of the longest-running columns in Fratello’s history. We are happy to announce that after 10 long years, our Thursday contemplation on vintage watches has gotten a refresh. Let’s kick off a new Retrospective series with […] Visit Retrospective: Tomas Breaks Prejudices With A Barrel-Shaped Gallet Powered By A Fine Excelsior Park Movement to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: How Much Should You Spend On Your First Watch? Fratello
Jan 16, 2025

Fratello Talks: How Much Should You Spend On Your First Watch?

Welcome to this week’s episode of Fratello Talks. How much should you spend on your first watch? It’s a valid question we’ve all faced at some point. However, there are plenty of different ways to answer it. Today, Nacho, RJ, and Daan delve into the topic and discuss their approaches to budgeting for a first […] Visit Fratello Talks: How Much Should You Spend On Your First Watch? to read the full article.

Fratello On Air: Finding Your Place In The Watch Community Fratello
Jan 14, 2025

Fratello On Air: Finding Your Place In The Watch Community

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss the watch community and how to find a group of like-minded (or differently minded) people within it. Whether you seek to meet people in person or online, there’s even a great option if you don’t live in a major city. For our listeners, […] Visit Fratello On Air: Finding Your Place In The Watch Community to read the full article.

The Watch You Knew Was Coming Finally Arrived - Hands-On With The Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 In Steel Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Jan 13, 2025

The Watch You Knew Was Coming Finally Arrived - Hands-On With The Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 In Steel

Get ready for a year of special Vacheron Constantin creations. To grab your attention, the brand’s 270th-anniversary celebrations kick off with a watch you knew was coming - the Historiques 222 in steel. The much-anticipated watch made it to Fratello HQ ahead of the embargo. It was a perfect way to experience firsthand if the […] Visit The Watch You Knew Was Coming Finally Arrived - Hands-On With The Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 In Steel to read the full article.

In-Depth: Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 Tourbillon SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 Tourbillon Jan 9, 2025

In-Depth: Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 Tourbillon

Greubel Forsey unexpectedly debuted the Hand Made 1 in 2019, but the watch has recently been in the headlines because Facebook founder Mark Zuckerberg was wearing one while announcing the elimination of Meta’s fact-checking policy. So it’s an opportune time to revisit the Hand Made 1, especially since its successor may be on the horizon. More classical in style than the typical Greubel Forsey, the Hand Made 1 gets its name from the fact that entire watch, including the case, is “95%” produced “using only hand-operated tools”, but finished to the requisite high standards of the brand. “Robert and myself wanted to bring the level of reliability and performance of a modern watch, so we have imposed the tolerances of a Greubel Forsey timepiece on a hand-made watch,” explains Stephen Forsey, cofounder of Greubel Forsey. Initial thoughts Highly regarded for its elaborately-finished and often elaborately constructed watches, Greubel Forsey surprised with the Hand Made 1. While still equipped with a tourbillon regulator, the Hand Made 1 is simple relative to the brand’s usual fare, which is focused on inclined regulators and multi-axis tourbillons. While the Hand Made 1 is different from most Greubel Forsey offerings, it is similar in possessing a sheen of perfection. This is immediately apparent with the watch in hand. Every edge and surface in the movement looks perfect, even under magnification. This sets it apart from the average “hand made” watch, which ...

TAG Heuer Returns As The Official Timekeeper For Formula 1 In 2025 Fratello
TAG Heuer Returns As Jan 8, 2025

TAG Heuer Returns As The Official Timekeeper For Formula 1 In 2025

In the year that Formula 1 celebrates its 75th anniversary, TAG Heuer will return to the sport as its Official Timekeeper. It’s a combination that’s as natural as peanut butter and jelly. With the watch brand’s rich history in racing and its sponsorship of the leading F1 team, this new partnership feels like coming home. […] Visit TAG Heuer Returns As The Official Timekeeper For Formula 1 In 2025 to read the full article.

Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron Carbon, a Contemporary Update of a Classic Worn & Wound
Longines Introduces Jan 1, 2025

Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron Carbon, a Contemporary Update of a Classic

With the New Year upon us, I think it’s time to look at what we want our resolutions to be. For me? Well, I think it’s about time I learned German (Mom, if you’re reading this, I’m sorry for making you pay for those lessons for all those years!). Or maybe I’ll lose that pesky ten pounds. Or maybe run a marathon – but who has the time? And for Longines? Well, I can’t say for sure, but I’d think innovating one of their classic watches is probably high on their list of resolutions – and they already accomplished that within the first week of 2025. You see, the latest release of the much-beloved Ultra-Chron series just got an upgrade: the Ultra-Chron Carbon. As a first for the brand, the use of carbon will both add an extra layer of protection for the wearer, while giving a bit of style to the already stylish Ultra-Chron model. First launched in 1968, the Ultra-Chron has long been a favorite for the Swiss maison. Due in part to the well-proportioned cushion case shape as well as for its novelty as being the first diver’s watch to feature a high-frequency movement. It is with this in mind that it’s no surprise, then, to see Longines use the Ultra-Chron as the template for further innovation – and the addition of carbon is one way to succeed here. In terms of design, the black carbon case is especially unique for its manufacturing process. Look closely at the photos and you’ll notice a mosaic of carbon fiber and epoxy resin moulded together – making e...

The Gear that Mattered to Me in 2024 Worn & Wound
Dec 30, 2024

The Gear that Mattered to Me in 2024

Okay. Confession time. I’m not the most organized guy on the planet. Pretty much anyone in my life could confirm that for you. Pedantic, yes; OCD, diagnosed; but organized? No, not really. As somewhat befits my lifestyle and career, I like to be surrounded by things I love. I’m not a hoarder, but I’m also not a big believer in sterility. I like to be able to see my tools, my things. Open shelving is my friend, and I am very careful about how I use drawers: Drawers are where things go to die. A consequence of this is that my desk is, more often than not, coated in stuff. Pictures, books, stationary, watches, camera gear - it’s all within arms reach. In short, my desk is a pretty great representation of how my brain works. Put another way, my desk is a cacophony of seemingly disparate things connected only by a shared surface and a network of invisible threads that will only ever make sense to me. Also, there are a lot of watches. I love watches, and they take up a huge amount of my time, as well as my physical and mental real estate. But I’m not interested in watches in a vacuum, none of us are (at least not in my experience). Like any hobby, watch enthusiasm is a fluid thing, frequently intersecting and colliding with other interests, passions, and obsessions. An interest in dive watches might lead one collector to learn how to dive, while hours spent on Instagram might encourage a genuine passion for photography in another. Regardless of what parallel interest...

Strap Check: Boundary Layer Studio Signature Straps Made Of Premium Loro Piana Fabrics Fratello
Casio n? Exactly - you Dec 26, 2024

Strap Check: Boundary Layer Studio Signature Straps Made Of Premium Loro Piana Fabrics

You may not know this, but in the Netherlands, we celebrate Christmas on the 25th and 26th of December. This means many Dutch people still have one fancy dinner tonight before Christmas is officially over. What do you do for such a nice occasion? Exactly - you dress up nicely, which means you also wear […] Visit Strap Check: Boundary Layer Studio Signature Straps Made Of Premium Loro Piana Fabrics to read the full article.

Bovet Introduces Retrograde Perpetual with Sapphire Dial SJX Watches
Bovet Dec 18, 2024

Bovet Introduces Retrograde Perpetual with Sapphire Dial

Bovet’s latest creation, the Récital 21, is a perpetual calendar with retrograde date presented in a modern style. The large, 44.4 mm titanium case contains tinted sapphire dial that reveals the calendar mechanism with twist: the retrograde date hand is damped so it gradually returns to the origin rather than jumping instantaneously. Initial thoughts Bovet is best known for its large complications, some of which are elaborately and intricately styled. The Récital 21 is classic Bovet, but in a slightly more approachable format. It’s a complicated watch but in a more contemporary package, especially with the sapphire dial and luminous markings. The case is (slightly) more wearable, though it has the signature sloped “writing desk” case, which is not for everyone but distinctive nonetheless. As is typical for Bovet, the movement is in-house and impressively spec’ed. Notably, it incorporates the patented co-axial double seconds (that’s visible on the front and back), and a five-day power reserve. Sapphire dial The polished titanium case is 44.4 mm in diameter. In the usual Bovet style, the case slopes downwards from 12 to six o’clock, hence the “writing desk” nickname. Though large, it has short lugs for wearability. Offered in green, blue, or brown tint, the sapphire crystal dial reveals the calendar module that’s enhanced by a damping mechanism that deliberately slows the date hand during its return. All of the calendar indications can be adjusted via ...

Trying On The 38.5mm Yema Navygraf Super Compressor In Marine Nationale Bleu Fratello
Yema Dec 16, 2024

Trying On The 38.5mm Yema Navygraf Super Compressor In Marine Nationale Bleu

Yema and I go back, way back. Well, back to 2021, actually. One of the first articles I wrote for Fratello was on a Yema watch…and not just any Yema watch. The Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT Limited Edition I wrote about marked the start of Yema’s military career as an official partner of the French […] Visit Trying On The 38.5mm Yema Navygraf Super Compressor In Marine Nationale Bleu to read the full article.