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Insight: Hairspring Materials and Evolution Part II SJX Watches
Seiko SPRON 610 hairspring Lastly Aug 8, 2025

Insight: Hairspring Materials and Evolution Part II

Part I of our story on the evolution of hairspring materials covered temperature compensation along with the development of the first specialised balance spring alloy, Elinvar. The story brought us to the 1920s, when scientist and horologist Charles-Edouard Guillaume (1861-1938) finished his work on nickel-iron alloys and watchmakers begun embracing Elinvar springs paired with mono-metallic balances. In this second part we turn to newer hairspring alloys, like the now-ubiquitous Nivarox. Then we look at today’s landscape and the future, touching on research done by the Swatch Group with alternative, niobium-based alloys and also the specialised but obscure Seiko SPRON 610 hairspring. Lastly we discuss silicon springs, which are growing more prevalent across a range of timepieces. Elinvar’s weaknesses Elinvar was by far the greatest breakthrough in self-compensating alloy hairsprings at the time. Guillaume considered Elinvar good enough and not needing further improvement - unsurprisingly since he was its inventor - but other watchmakers and engineers continued to experiment with iron-nickel compounds because Elinvar’s inherent properties made it a good, but imperfect, material. Even though the alloy behaved predictably with temperature changes, its physical properties were not ideal to begin with. Elinvar was a soft metal, which posed its own suite of problems for spring applications. The importance of softness in terms of hairspring performance is not related ...

First Look – The New Panerai Submersible Marina Militare PAM01697 and PAM01698 Inspired by the Aviazione Navale Monochrome
Panerai Submersible Marina Militare PAM01697 Aug 6, 2025

First Look – The New Panerai Submersible Marina Militare PAM01697 and PAM01698 Inspired by the Aviazione Navale

Panerai and its Submersible line of dive watches hardly need an introduction as these robust, military-inspired timepieces, crafted for modern adventurers yet rooted in Panerai’s mission to develop precision instruments for the Italian Navy’s underwater commandos, have excited enthusiasts since 1998, first as part of the Luminor collection, and as a standalone series since 2019. […]

Hands-On With The Volan Type One Tyre And Wheel Watches Fratello
Aug 6, 2025

Hands-On With The Volan Type One Tyre And Wheel Watches

Do you remember tyre watches? I had completely forgotten all about them until the founder and owner of Volan, Diederik van Golen, visited our Fratello office a year ago. Being a boat and car guy, he devised a modern interpretation of the tyre watch concept. These were only drawings back then, but they looked great. […] Visit Hands-On With The Volan Type One Tyre And Wheel Watches to read the full article.

Jaquet Droz’s Chinese Dragon is Three-Dimensional and Skeletonised SJX Watches
Breguet s dragon was Aug 6, 2025

Jaquet Droz’s Chinese Dragon is Three-Dimensional and Skeletonised

Jaquet Droz is enjoying a good run with unique, dragon-themed watches. While last month’s debut was firmly in the mould of Anglo-Saxon fantasy lore, the Tourbillon Skelet Red Gold “Dragon Mask” is inspired by the Chinese dragon. A unique piece created at the behest of a client, like most of brand’s current repertoire, the Dragon Mask has an open-worked dial engraved and painted by hand – and set with emeralds – installed on a skeletonised, self-winding tourbillon movement. Initial thoughts Personalised commissions are, by definition, personal and not for everyone. This watch is over the top in its decoration, maybe even overdone to the point of kitsch, but I like it. Dragon-themed watches don’t always get the motif right – Breguet’s dragon was a little too fat – but this one is done well in its own way. The case is a little large for what it is, but the size is useful as it results in a larger canvas for the dial decoration. And because this is a Jaquet Droz, the execution, both in terms of dial and movement, will be good quality, as is usually the case with the high-end brands owned by Swatch Group. I imagine the client who commissioned this will be pleased – except maybe for the CHF450,000 price tag, which is steep but typical for a watch like this. A dragon in all its colours Despite its strikingly different look, the Dragon Mask is actually a variation of the clean and modern Tourbillon Skelet. Both share the same movement and case, but the Drago...

Introducing – New Tuxedo and Atoll Versions for the Sherpa Ultradive Monochrome
Aug 6, 2025

Introducing – New Tuxedo and Atoll Versions for the Sherpa Ultradive

Sherpa Watches is the brainchild of Martin Klocke, an engineer and vintage Enicar enthusiast determined to revive the legendary Enicar Sherpa divers of the 1950s and 60s. Staying true to the pioneering compressor case technology initially developed by EPSA (Ervin Piquerez SA), Sherpa’s modern Ultradive series brings the same pressure-sealing construction into the 21st century. […]

Interview: Kari Voutilianen on Urban Jürgensen and Artisanal Watchmaking SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen Aug 6, 2025

Interview: Kari Voutilianen on Urban Jürgensen and Artisanal Watchmaking

Urban Jürgensen made its comeback earlier this year with an impressive line-up that includes the flagship UJ-1 Tourbillon. Much of the credit for the brand’s watches and watchmaking goes to Kari Voutilainen. Mr Voutilainen has imbued Urban Jürgensen’s watches with the high standards of quality synonymous with his own brand, resulting in watches that are equally exquisitely craft and steeply priced, but arguably worth it. Though best known for his eponymous brand, Mr Voutilainen is also co-chief executive of Urban Jürgensen (and also a minority shareholder). His fellow steward of the Danish marque that is now headquartered in Bienne, Switzerland, is Alex Rosenfield. While Mr Voutilainen is in charge of watchmaking, Mr Rosenfield leads marketing and branding. From left: Kari Voutilainen, Andrew Rosenfield, and Alex Rosenfield. Image – Urban Jürgensen Given the opportunity to speak at length with Mr Voutilainen, I could not refuse. We discussed the true nature of artisanal work, ranging from movement decoration to guilloche, the details of Urban Jürgensen’s movements, and more. You can find his insightful answers below. But interestingly, my conversation with Mr Voutilainen reminded me of the first time I met him, which was at Baselworld 2006 when he launched the Masterpiece Chronograph (with a special hairspring from what turned out to be a questionable supplier). Even two decades ago, well before he was famous, Mr Voutilainen was passionate about the same thing...

Introducing – The Seiko 5 Sports x Pepsi SSK047 and SRPL99… The Watches That You Can Now Rightfully Call Pepsi Monochrome
Seiko 5 Sports x Pepsi Aug 5, 2025

Introducing – The Seiko 5 Sports x Pepsi SSK047 and SRPL99… The Watches That You Can Now Rightfully Call Pepsi

If it were only for the watches themselves, this would have been average news… But what properly got the ice-cool factor is that for once, we’ll be able to officially name watches with a red and blue bezel: Pepsi! You know the idea, we, watch enthusiasts, love to give nicknames to emblematic watches, something particularly […]

First Look – The Orient Bambino 75th Anniversary Classic and Day-Night Come with Plenty of Vintage Soul and Modern Charm Monochrome
Orient Aug 4, 2025

First Look – The Orient Bambino 75th Anniversary Classic and Day-Night Come with Plenty of Vintage Soul and Modern Charm

For many watch enthusiasts, the Orient Bambino is a rite of passage, often a first mechanical watch that proves you don’t have to break the bank to enjoy heritage design and honest, in-house watchmaking. To mark its 75th anniversary, Orient has refreshed its popular Bambino lineup with new dial colours and two limited editions that […]

Introducing: New Panerai Submersible Marina Militare Models PAM01697 And PAM01698 Fratello
Panerai Submersible Marina Militare Models Aug 4, 2025

Introducing: New Panerai Submersible Marina Militare Models PAM01697 And PAM01698

Panerai is no stranger to working with the Italian Navy. The two have joined forces on watches, technical tools, and other products for over a century. As watch enthusiasts, we’ve become accustomed to these collaborative projects featuring the bold Marina Militare typography on the dial. Today, the partnership expands and is dedicated to the Aviazione […] Visit Introducing: New Panerai Submersible Marina Militare Models PAM01697 And PAM01698 to read the full article.

New Watch Releases You May Have Missed from IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Bremont, and Minase Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Bremont Aug 3, 2025

New Watch Releases You May Have Missed from IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Bremont, and Minase

Happy first weekend of August, and welcome to another new release summary! Would that make it a “summery” summary? Bad alliterative jokes aside, we’ve seen some exciting new pieces from big-name watchmakers and microbrands alike. Rounding out this release list are a colorful new IWC Top Gun collab, a Jaeger-LeCoulture that shoots for the stars, a meteoric Bremont with lofty aspirations, and a Minase that brings a little winter chill to the summer sun.  Read on, and let us know if there is a new release that you think we missed out on in the comments! IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Miramar Far from their first Top Gun release, IWC’s new chronograph may not seem that exciting at first glance. But the new Miramar edition has a secret weapon: a Pantone hue of the same name. Other Top Gun IWCs have been made available in shades of black, gray, and beige, which although appropriate for the military-theme, aren’t terribly exciting from a color perspective. The Miramar, then, stands out with its unapologetically cheery blue, inspired by the light blue t-shirts worn by TOPGUN flight instructors under their flight suits.  It’s not just the color that gives the Miramar an edge, though. Design-wise, the left-leaning subdials at the 12, 6, and 9 o’clock positions, balanced out by the dual date and day windows, provide for a handsomely readable aesthetic. The typeface is characteristic of other IWC Top Gun watches, with rounded sans serif numeral...

Fratello EDC: Jorg Shares his Everyday Carry Essentials From Olympus, Opinel, Hobonichi, And More Fratello
Aug 2, 2025

Fratello EDC: Jorg Shares his Everyday Carry Essentials From Olympus, Opinel, Hobonichi, And More

I am going last in this series of EDC articles, and that only seems fitting. While I do choose the products that I use daily with great care, I hardly connect to a greater EDC concept. This often results in a bag filled with a lot - and I mean a lot - of random […] Visit Fratello EDC: Jorg Shares his Everyday Carry Essentials From Olympus, Opinel, Hobonichi, And More to read the full article.

Seiko Samurai Review: Smaller And Better Than Ever Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Aug 1, 2025

Seiko Samurai Review: Smaller And Better Than Ever

Last year, we saw a trio of new Seiko Samurai watches that aimed to broaden the collection’s appeal within the Prospex family. It’s fairly well understood that the Samurai has been seen as the odd man out among the “Seiko with a nickname” family, but why exactly is that? Well, it doesn’t have that vintage heritage, having only debuted in 2004. Also, the second generation has been around since 2017, and since then, tastes have certainly changed. The 44mm-wide case is a little too big for today’s tastes, where conventional wisdom puts anything above 42mm safely in the “huge” category (the case has been pretty thick, as well) . And while models like the Turtle, SKX007, or Willard (or even Tuna and Arnie) have rounded cases, the Samurai’s case has a very sharp and almost aggressively angular design that, again, is not for everyone. Wisely, Seiko’s third-generation Samurai addresses that persistent case-size issue while giving the dial a refresh too. Fortunately, the angular case is a bit more refined, yet no less geometrical. Sorry, that’s just part of the Samurai’s identity. Seiko Samurai Case and Bracelet First off, yes - the new Seiko Samurai has taken design cues from the Shogun. If that makes it not a “true Samurai,” then so be it, but the end result is one good-looking watch. The case improves over that of the second generation in just about every meaningful way (the older case is still available alongside this new iteration). First off, it ...

Time and Precision: Christopher Ward and Everton FC’s New York Moment Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Aug 1, 2025

Time and Precision: Christopher Ward and Everton FC’s New York Moment

The summer heat was already building at Icahn Stadium on July 24th when the first Everton supporters began filtering through the gates on Randall’s Island. Many had crossed an ocean for this moment-traveling from Liverpool, Manchester, and points across the UK-while others had driven from as far as Philadelphia and Boston. They came clutching scarves, wearing faded jerseys, and checking their phones for updates on the club’s new signings. What they found was something rarer than a transfer announcement: direct access to their heroes. Christopher Ward’s partnership with Everton FC has evolved far beyond typical corporate relationships since becoming the club’s Official Global Timing Partner in 2022. This collaboration has expanded methodically-encompassing Everton Women and Everton in the Community by 2024, while the British watchmaker established their first US showroom in Dallas as part of their broader American expansion. As David Moyes led his squad through passing drills under the Manhattan skyline, there was something fitting about watching precision unfold in real time. The same attention to detail that Christopher Ward applies to their Swiss-made watches was evident in every touch, every tactical instruction barked across the pitch. James Tarkowski commanded his defensive line with quiet authority while Iliman Ndiaye began juggling the ball with that effortless artistry that made him the club’s leading scorer last season. The fans pressed against the...

Fratello’s Top 5 Most Surprising Watches Of The First Half Of 2025 - Featuring Richard Mille, Louis Vuitton, And More Fratello
Richard Mille Louis Vuitton Aug 1, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Most Surprising Watches Of The First Half Of 2025 - Featuring Richard Mille, Louis Vuitton, And More

Another Friday, another list! This week, our series of lists covering the best watches of the first half of the year comes to an end. We have reviewed the main categories over the past few weeks and will conclude our recap with our five most surprising watches of the first six months of 2025. We’ve […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Most Surprising Watches Of The First Half Of 2025 - Featuring Richard Mille, Louis Vuitton, And More to read the full article.

Fratello EDC: Nacho Shares His Everyday Carry Essentials From Uniqlo, Fujifilm, Alpaka, And More Fratello
Aug 1, 2025

Fratello EDC: Nacho Shares His Everyday Carry Essentials From Uniqlo, Fujifilm, Alpaka, And More

Our watches are not the only things we carry with us every day. Sure, they’re the primary focus of what we do here at Fratello, but sometimes it’s nice to shift that focus onto other elements of our everyday carry (or EDC). Today, I’ll contribute to the Fratello EDC series by walking you through a […] Visit Fratello EDC: Nacho Shares His Everyday Carry Essentials From Uniqlo, Fujifilm, Alpaka, And More to read the full article.

Interview: Dr. Woo on the Unexpected Parallels Between Watchmaking and Tattooing, and His Latest for Roger Dubuis Worn & Wound
Roger Dubuis As you well know Jul 31, 2025

Interview: Dr. Woo on the Unexpected Parallels Between Watchmaking and Tattooing, and His Latest for Roger Dubuis

As you well know, we here at Worn & Wound are big fans of collaborative watches – we’ve had the pleasure of doing quite a few of our own over the years. Watch collaborations are nothing new, but they haven’t always been as trendy or prevalent as they are today. Sure, adjacent industries like sport, diving, and racing have long found ways to co-create. Rolex and the German luxury car manufacturer Mercedes-Benz marks one of the earliest examples of such a partnership tracing back to the 1920s. Still, it wouldn’t be until the later part of the 20th century that co-branded watches would really rise in popularity and become as commonplace as they are now.  In the current market, mashups have gone far beyond the usual suspects. Watch brands have been getting creative and tapping anyone and everyone from DJ Steve Aoki to Cohiba cigars and Japanese architect Tadao Ando. Today, we’re going to dig deeper into one such collab that has taken us by surprise, one between Roger Dubuis and the renowned tattoo artist Dr. Woo.  For the uninitiated, Brian Woo, better known as Dr. Woo, is a Taiwanese American tattoo artist based in Los Angeles. He’s known for his intricate, single-needle black and gray tattoos marked by ultra-fine lines and minimalist designs that mimic drawn sketches. Over the years, he’s developed a cult following among celebrities like Emilia Clarke, Drake, Miley Cyrus, and Zoe Kravitz, resulting in a long waitlist to get a seat in his chair.   View this p...

Retrospective: A Gallet Multichron Yachting And An Unbelievable Ocean Adventure Fratello
Jul 31, 2025

Retrospective: A Gallet Multichron Yachting And An Unbelievable Ocean Adventure

Imagine you are a cardiologist, and you take your family on a transatlantic voyage in a sloop sailboat without any navigation or any modern electronic aids. With waves 12 meters high, a dramatic storm incident, a broken mast, and a huge freighter running against you, it is anything but a leisure cruise. But tolerance and […] Visit Retrospective: A Gallet Multichron Yachting And An Unbelievable Ocean Adventure to read the full article.