Watch brandsWatch wikiWatch videosVariousWatch calendarSaved articles
PopularRolexOmegaPatek PhilippeAudemars PiguetTudorGrand SeikoCartierSeikoIWCTAG HeuerBreitlingJaeger-LeCoultreA. Lange & SohneZenith

Results for Swiss vs Japanese Watchmaking

4,700 articles · 45 videos found · page 100 of 159

First Look - The More Compact Seiko King Seiko KSK 36mm SPB457J1, SPB459J1 & SPB461J1 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Aug 7, 2024

First Look - The More Compact Seiko King Seiko KSK 36mm SPB457J1, SPB459J1 & SPB461J1

Seiko’s announcement in 2020 heralding the return of the long-slumbering King Seiko created a stir. As our readers will remember, Grand Seiko and King Seiko sub-brands were the result of an interesting experiment to promote competition between the Dani Seikosha (Grand Seiko) and Suwa Seikosha (King Seiko) watchmaking facilities. Pitched as internal rivals in the […]

Citizen Tsuki-yomi A-T Review Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Aug 6, 2024

Citizen Tsuki-yomi A-T Review

Japan’s Citizen Watch Company marks 100 years of watchmaking in 2024, and some of its most noteworthy recent timepieces provide ample proof that, despite being in business for a full century, the brand’s drive toward forward-thinking technology and avant-garde design has not yet started to slow down. Take for example the Citizen Tsuki-yomi A-T, unveiled in Fall of 2023 - which is the culmination of 30 years of Citizen’s pioneering work in the field of radio-controlled atomic timekeeping. It is the first light-powered watch with a fully analog moon-phase display, and the first moon-phase that requires no manual adjustments whatsoever from the wearer thanks to its high-tech movement, Eco-Drive Caliber H874, which receives signals from six multi-band radio transmitters. The name “Tsuki-yomi” is derived from a Japanese phrase meaning “reading the moon,” and also refers to a moon god from ancient Japanese mythology, while the “A-T” is an abbreviation for “Atomic Timekeeping.” For the ingenious Eco-Drive movement, which runs to an astounding accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month, Citizen’s designers developed a special mathematical formula that calculates the exact position of the moon on each day of the year by using the radio transmission signals from the world’s atomic clocks. The watch’s dial is also a distinguishing feature: its surface is enhanced with a textural lunar landscape motif of craters, moondust and lakes that is “bold yet subtle en...

Holthinrichs Announces their New Haute Horlogerie Project Worn & Wound
Holthinrichs Announces their New Haute Aug 6, 2024

Holthinrichs Announces their New Haute Horlogerie Project

Earlier this year, when Dutch independent brand Holthinrichs announced their new Signature Collection, we thought it was one of the most impressive new projects in indie watchmaking. It represented a bold shift for the brand, moving from complex, bespoke watchmaking to something more easily repeatable and at a more approachable price point. With advances in manufacturing capabilities, the new and less expensive Signature Collection actually represents a vision of watchmaking far closer to what brand founder Michiel Holthinrichs had always intended. It was, and remains, an exciting story for fans of the brand, but after seeing Holthinrichs steadily create watches that are more and more ambitious in recent years, we’ve kept hope alive that the brand hadn’t completely abandoned their goals of creating something truly high end and in-house.  Now, on the heels of the Signature Collection comes word of a new project within Holthinrichs that would appear to fill the void of truly high end watchmaking that was left when the brand transitioned to their new model. Holthinrichs Haute Horlogerie provides an outlet for the brand’s most ambitious ideas, and the first watch under this new banner, the Ornament Nouveau, is unlike anything they’ve attempted previously.  Like every watch Holthinrichs has made, the defining characteristic of the new piece is its sculptural design. But with the Ornament Nouveau, those ideas have been manifested not just in the case and dial design, b...

Introducing - The Grand Seiko 44GS “Kirazuri” US-Exclusive SBGA507 and SBGA509 Monochrome
Grand Seiko 44GS “Kirazuri” US-Exclusive SBGA507 Aug 5, 2024

Introducing - The Grand Seiko 44GS “Kirazuri” US-Exclusive SBGA507 and SBGA509

Grand Seiko’s Heritage collection is often synonymous with wonderfully textured and subtly coloured dials, including Monochrome’s all-time favourites, the Snowflake and the Shunbun. Reflecting the Japanese reverence for nature, many GS dials capture the colours and textures of natural landmarks and seasonal changes using time-honoured artisanal techniques. Created exclusively for the US market, Grand Seiko […]

The Evergreens - The History of the Zenith El Primero, The Glorious High-Frequency Automatic Chronograph That Almost Died Monochrome
Zenith El Primero Aug 2, 2024

The Evergreens - The History of the Zenith El Primero, The Glorious High-Frequency Automatic Chronograph That Almost Died

In our series on historically significant calibres, the best way to honour the El Primero calibre is by highlighting its qualities, functional characteristics, and pivotal role in shaping the watchmaking industry. While the tale of its salvation in 1976, along with that of Zenith as a company, by a courageous man defying the ill will […]

Delma Releases a Limited Edition Chronograph to Continue their 100th Anniversary Celebration Worn & Wound
Aug 2, 2024

Delma Releases a Limited Edition Chronograph to Continue their 100th Anniversary Celebration

Earlier this year we told you about Swiss brand Delma’s 100th anniversary celebration, which kicked off with the release of a limited edition tourbillon. Of course, plenty of brands release tourbillons and they are a natural for a celebratory watch, but very few come in at under $10,000, which the Delma did during its pre-order period (the full retail price is $13,900, which is still quite affordable for a Swiss tourbillon). Their latest effort, announced last month, has also been released to coincide with the brand’s centenary, but it’s a bit more modest in its focus. The new Heritage Chronograph 100 Years Limited Edition pays tribute to Delma’s long history of making chronographs in a handsome package that’s a bit more under the radar (and more affordable) than their release from earlier in the year.  Delma traces their history of making chronographs to the mid 1940s when the brand’s focus began to shift to sport oriented watches. Over the years, they’ve made watches for just about every sporting discipline that a well rounded watch brand would ever attempt, including dive watches, timepieces meant for racing of all kinds, as well as travel watches. The new Heritage Chronograph has several clear vintage cues meant to tie this watch to the brand’s earliest sports watches.  Like many WWII era and later mid century chronographs, the Heritage Chronograph features both tachymeter and telemeter scales at the dial’s outer perimeter. Red accents within the te...

In-Depth - Visiting Bremont, Understanding The Evolution and Answering Collectors’ Concerns Monochrome
Bremont Understanding Aug 1, 2024

In-Depth - Visiting Bremont, Understanding The Evolution and Answering Collectors’ Concerns

Today, for once, we won’t be travelling to Switzerland. We’re heading to a slightly more unusual place, in a country that’s not primarily known for its watchmaking industry. In a little town called Henley, about 30km away from London, is one of the very few large-scale watch brands of the United Kingdom, in fact probably […]

(Video) Incredible Watch Engineering from a Brand You Need to Know - Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Worn & Wound
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Aug 1, 2024

(Video) Incredible Watch Engineering from a Brand You Need to Know - Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force

The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force is not like other watches. At a glance, it clearly doesn’t look like them, but more importantly, it also works a bit differently too, featuring a first in watchmaking. To be clear, it still tells time with three hands, is operated by a crown, and has all of the movement components one expects to find on a watch, from a mainspring to an escapement. But it hides a very cool secret. Something that sets it apart. Hidden within is a little mechanism that helps it be more accurate. It’s not a complication, per say, as it doesn’t add any functions beyond time-telling, rather, it makes for a better watch. The Gravity Equal Force is one of a small handful of watches that attempts to address a fundamental issue with mechanical timepieces: variations in accuracy across their power reserves due to changing torque. As the power reserve diminishes, the torque, or force, decreases, the amplitude of the escapement falls, and the timekeeping becomes less accurate. Watchmakers have addressed this issue in various ways over the last few hundred years, which are often grouped together and referred to as “constant force” mechanisms. The Gravity Equal Force uses a simple, though uncommon, mechanism compared to typical “constant force” systems such as fuseé, chains, and remontoirs called a Geneva or Maltese cross. This mechanism prevents the watch mainspring from unwinding to the point where the torque and, thus, the accuracy really drop off. Ho...

Introducing - The Military Themed Bremont Broadsword Recon Bronze Monochrome
Bremont Broadsword Recon Bronze One Jul 31, 2024

Introducing - The Military Themed Bremont Broadsword Recon Bronze

One of the few large-scale watchmaking companies based on UK soil, Bremont has, over the years, forged strong connections with Britain’s Ministry of Defence, supplying the British Army with dedicated watches. As a tribute to this partnership and MoD watches of the past, Bremont created the Broadsword series, inspired by the all-important Dirty Dozen. First available […]

Introducing - The Breathtaking Elegance of the Andersen Genève Jumping Hours Black Jade Stone Monochrome
Andersen Genève Jul 31, 2024

Introducing - The Breathtaking Elegance of the Andersen Genève Jumping Hours Black Jade Stone

Master watchmaker Svend Andersen has been a renowned figure on the independent watchmaking scene since 1980. The Danish watchmaker’s ingenious and original approach to complications, including his sophisticated calendar watches and world timers, has captivated collectors and top-tier watch brands for years. To celebrate his 40th anniversary in watchmaking in 2020, Svend Andersen produced a […]

Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Nacho’s Picks From Citizen, Zenith, and Singer Reimagined Fratello
Citizen Zenith Jul 31, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Nacho’s Picks From Citizen, Zenith, and Singer Reimagined

It’s summer, and while the Swiss watch industry takes the month off, we’re picking our favorite watches once again! This time, however, we’re not sticking to a specific budget. Instead, we’re keeping the theme consistent but aiming at three different price categories - sub-€1,000, sub-€10,000, and a no-holds-barred, unrestricted category. The goal is to see […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Nacho’s Picks From Citizen, Zenith, and Singer Reimagined to read the full article.

Time Through the Ages, Part 4: The Waltham Watch Company - A Seismic Disruption in Time Worn & Wound
Jul 30, 2024

Time Through the Ages, Part 4: The Waltham Watch Company - A Seismic Disruption in Time

Editor’s Note: Time Through the Ages is a four part series written by Andrew Canter, member of the British Horological Institute, Alliance of British Watch & Clock Makers, and the British Watch & Clock Makers Guild. In this fourth and final installment of the series, Andrew examines the dramatic leap forward in watch manufacturing made by the Waltham Watch Company, and how the Swiss watch industry responded. For more from Andrew, check out his work at Mr. WatchMaster.  “Had the Philadelphia Exhibition taken place five years later, we should have been totally annihilated without knowing whence or how we received the terrible blow. We have believed ourselves masters of the situation, when we really have been on a volcano.”  Edouard Favre-Perret, Swiss Member of the International Jury Have you ever heard of Jacques David or Theophilus (Théodore) Gribi? How about Ambrose Webster? They were the key protagonists in the fascinating story of the rise of American watchmaking and subsequent potential demise of Swiss watchmaking. It’s a story of industrial espionage and spying that changed the course of the global watch industry forever. The Centennial Exhibition of 1876 took place in Philadelphia and was the first official World’s Fair to be held in the United States, celebrating the 100th anniversary of the signing of the Declaration of Independence in Philadelphia. Almost 10 million visitors attended the exposition, with 37 countries participating. Centennial Exhibiti...

Retrospective - What are The World’s Thinnest Watches Per Category? Monochrome
Jul 26, 2024

Retrospective - What are The World’s Thinnest Watches Per Category?

Ultra-thin watchmaking is a fascinating topic, one of our favourite areas of expertise here, at MONOCHROME. Ultra-thin watchmaking is horology at its purest, a no-compromise search for the slenderest movement that has to be considered a true complication. While high-watchmaking often seeks to bring as many complications as possible in a single movement, ultra-thinness is […]

Introducing - The Junghans Meister Chronoscope in its Sportiest Attire, now with Steel Bracelet Monochrome
Junghans Meister Chronoscope Jul 26, 2024

Introducing - The Junghans Meister Chronoscope in its Sportiest Attire, now with Steel Bracelet

Once one of the largest watch companies in the world, German brand Junghans was founded in 1861 by Erhard Junghans and his brother-in-law Jakob Zeller-Tobler and started as a clockmaker. Mostly famous for its collaboration with Swiss Bauhaus designer Max Bill, the company kept on bringing nicely designed and accessible watches over the years. Aside […]

First Look - Montblanc’s Deep Diver, The Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810 Monochrome
Montblanc s Deep Diver Jul 25, 2024

First Look - Montblanc’s Deep Diver, The Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810

A deep dive watch from a brand with a name referring to Europe’s highest mountain, specialized in making high-end fountain pens…? Surprising, to say the least. Surely, there’s more to Montblanc than what I just described. Indeed, the brand has long been active in watchmaking, producing appealing dress watches and superb chronographs equipped with Minerva […]

Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Grand Sport Tourbillon Sincere Platinum Jubilee SJX Watches
Casio n well.  Unusually it Jul 23, 2024

Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Grand Sport Tourbillon Sincere Platinum Jubilee

While Laurent Ferrier originally made its name with timepieces that paid homage to traditional watchmaking, the brand has recently evolved towards to a more contemporary style, especially with its Sport collection that marries solid, classical mechanics with sporty case designs. The latest addition to the line is the Grand Sport Tourbillon Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition, a limited edition in rose gold and green guilloche that celebrates the 70th anniversary of Singapore-based retailer Sincere Fine Watches. Initial Thoughts The Sincere edition is essentially a Grand Sport Tourbillon dressed in a warm and appealing palette. The green dial complements the 5N rose gold case, a rich combination that conveys a sense of old-school luxury and refinement, which suits the commemorative occasion well.  Unusually, it is presented on a strap, instead of a bracelet that has been the norm for most of Laurent Ferrier’s sports watches to date. The strap makes the watch more wearable – a bracelet would mean a lot of gold – and also slightly more accessible in terms of price. In typical Laurent Ferrier style, the quality of execution is high. The dial is made by Voutilainen’s Comblemine while the movement is decorated to an impressive level (though the bridges have a simpler linear brushed finish instead of the more traditional striping). Intrinsically, the Sincere edition is an appealing iteration, but the Laurent Ferrier Sport line in general feels ambiguous as the design not e...

The New Ulysse Nardin Atoll Diver Features an Uncommon and Beautiful Stone Dial (And a Whole Bunch of Diamonds) Worn & Wound
Ulysse Nardin Atoll Diver Features Jul 22, 2024

The New Ulysse Nardin Atoll Diver Features an Uncommon and Beautiful Stone Dial (And a Whole Bunch of Diamonds)

At Worn & Wound, we are not typically drawn to watches with extravagant diamond bezels and dials. However, we have stumbled upon something truly unique and special that we are confident will pique your interest, the Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll in 39mm. This watch not only stands out due to its distinct design but also features a dial made of chrysocolla stone, a material rarely used in the world of watchmaking. In fact, the only other commercially produced watch we found that used this material was a discontinued Shinola Birdy lady’s quartz watch. An atoll is a ring-shaped coral reef, island, or chain of islands around a body of water called a lagoon. Many people associate the word “lagoon” with images of Gilligan’s Island-a small beach with crystal-clear turquoise water. That is the inspiration for this watch. Each dial is crafted from hand-cut natural stone, ensuring each one is unique, so the paradise depicted by its breathtaking mix of blue, turquoise, brown, and black is exclusively yours. So, what is chrysocolla? Chrysocolla is a mineral that belongs to the silicate mineral group. It is often found in association with other secondary copper minerals such as malachite, azurite, and cuprite. Chrysocolla is known for its vibrant blue-green or green color, reminiscent of turquoise. It is named after the Greek words “chrysos,” meaning gold, and “kolla,” meaning glue, due to its historical use as a flux in soldering gold. It is not considered a rare gemston...

Visiting the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Manufacture Jul 19, 2024

Visiting the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture

The Plan-les-Ouates district of Geneva is well-known for its concentration of watchmaking facilities, earning it the nickname “Plan-les-Watch”. But the standout structure is arguably the Vacheron Constantin (VC) manufacture, which houses both management functions and production under one roof – or more specifically, under one curving metal skin that wraps over the top of the building from east to west. The area’s other prominent residents include Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Piaget, but you can also find numerous other brands like Frederique Constant, Harry Winston, and Laurent Ferrier clustered together in what feels like a large office park. “Plan-les-Watch” is where most of the actual watchmaking in Geneva gets done, since most brands have relocated their production facilities to the suburbs over time, leaving FP Journe as the only industrial operation in the city’s historic center. And it is here that power is expressed through architecture, from the imposing black glass facade of the Rolex building to the superyacht-like decks that wrap around the Patek Philippe manufacture. The reception at the manufacture. Image – Vacheron Constantin Completed in 2005 to celebrate VC’s 250th anniversary, the Vacheron Constantin building was designed by Bernard Tschumi Architects as a single building. A second wing was then added by the same firm in 2014, increasing both production space and staff amenities.  A key emphasis of the building is lighting, with expansive...

Video - A Closer Look at Laurent Ferrier’s Natural Escapement and the Micro-Rotor Movement Monochrome
Laurent Ferrier Jul 17, 2024

Video - A Closer Look at Laurent Ferrier’s Natural Escapement and the Micro-Rotor Movement

Today, for our latest in-depth video, we’re going technical. This is what MONOCHROME is all about, after all. Sharing the knowledge behind fine horology and understanding how our beloved mechanical watches actually work. Today’s topic is one dear to our hearts, as it combines everything we love in fine watchmaking: high-end finishing, mechanical ingenuity, profound […]