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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Win a Rolex Sky-Dweller while supporting hospitalized kids! Time+Tide
Rolex Sky-Dweller while supporting hospitalized Feb 17, 2023

Win a Rolex Sky-Dweller while supporting hospitalized kids!

Question: How does the average punter buy a new Rolex watch without paying way over the recommended retail price on the grey market? Answer: With extreme difficulty. In the watch community, this has become a common lament. For the average buyer, sourcing a Rolex at the recommended retail price can increasingly feel like mission impossible. … ContinuedThe post Win a Rolex Sky-Dweller while supporting hospitalized kids! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Accutron Introduces Astronaut “T” SJX Watches
Accutron Introduces Astronaut “T” Once Feb 17, 2023

Accutron Introduces Astronaut “T”

Once a major brand during the 20th century heyday of American watchmaking, Bulova had a long association with the American space programme and US Air Force. Its watches broke the sound barrier, went to space, and even  the Moon. One of the watches that left Earth’s atmosphere was the Accutron Astronaut, which orbited the Earth on Mercury-Atlas 9 in 1963. Now having been spun off as a standalone brand by Bulova, Accutron debuts the Astronaut “T”. The limited-edition remake replicates the look of the crown-less, electric original, but as a modern mechanical watch with a Sellita movement featuring a dual time zone function. Initial thoughts Now owned by Japanese watch giant Citizen, Bulova has been steadily rolling out reissues of its best-known historical models, and unsurprisingly Accutron is doing the same. The Astronaut “T” is just the first in an upcoming series of Astronaut watches. Like the brand’s other reissues, the Astronaut “T” has an appealing aesthetic if you like the retro, 1960s style that characterises the series. And though little known, Bulova’s history in space exploration and cutting-edge air force projects brings a good deal of historical glamour to the model, which boosts its appeal. But the remake is pricey, especially given that neither the modern-day Bulova brand nor Accutron are known as a makers of high-end watches. The retail price of US$3,500 puts it in the same territory as the Tudor Black Bay Pro that has a more sophisticat...

What do you get if you cross a Rolex Daytona with an Apple Watch? Time+Tide
Rolex Daytona Feb 15, 2023

What do you get if you cross a Rolex Daytona with an Apple Watch?

The Rolex Daytona and the Apple Watch are two of the most wildly desired timepieces on the planet. First up, you have the Daytona, the iconic chronograph first released in 1963, whose popularity spiked exponentially after Paul Newman’s timepiece sold at auction for US$17.75 million in 2017. Today, your chances of snaffling a Daytona at … ContinuedThe post What do you get if you cross a Rolex Daytona with an Apple Watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zodiac and Huckberry Introduces a Wildly Capable LHD Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver with a GMT Hand and HEV Worn & Wound
Zodiac Feb 13, 2023

Zodiac and Huckberry Introduces a Wildly Capable LHD Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver with a GMT Hand and HEV

If you were tuning into our feed at the beginning of the year, we published an article where the entire Worn & Wound editorial team gave their predictions for what they thought would happen in the watch industry in 2023. Given the growing amount of watches with a GMT complication we saw released towards the latter part of the year, I started my portion of the article with a bit of an obvious take  – 2023 will be the Year of the GMT. And so far, it has been. I’ve written about six different GMT’s since we’ve crossed over into the new year and I don’t expect that to trend in the other direction any time soon. In addition to my soft ball of a prediction, I did “hope” to see more options with a slight change to the GMT format this year, where a dive watch design is put first, and then the travel component second. A Diver-GMT, if you will. Well it seems that Zodiac has gotten that memo. The latest addition to the Diver-GMT space is the Zodiac LHD Pro-Diver GMT. Zodiac has taken their core professional dive watch with the Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver, switched up the crown placement, added a fourth hand to track a second time zone, and added a helium escape valve for good measure. The Zodiac LHD Pro-Diver GMT is all business. Usually we’re used to seeing fun dial and bezel color combinations from the brand, but this new release is entirely the opposite. Aside from the splash of color from the orange accented GMT hand, water resistance rating on the dial, and the tri...

INTRODUCING: IWC give their Portugieser Automatic 40 a salmon makeover Time+Tide
IWC give their Portugieser Automatic Feb 13, 2023

INTRODUCING: IWC give their Portugieser Automatic 40 a salmon makeover

IWC introduces a sunburst salmon dial to Portugieser 40 collection Salmon-coloured dials are a fan-favourite amongst watch enthusiasts It will first be available exclusively in the UAE as of February and then available worldwide as of April SALMON! The dial colour strikes a particular chord with watch enthusiasts, perhaps most largely attributed to the fact it offers … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: IWC give their Portugieser Automatic 40 a salmon makeover appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Meet my pet watch: Scientists create living smartwatch powered by slime Time+Tide
Feb 12, 2023

Meet my pet watch: Scientists create living smartwatch powered by slime

It’s probably a sign of just how much some people care about their watches, but timepieces have long been attributed human characteristics. I’ve often heard the movement of a watch described as its “beating heart”, while it’s also routine to talk about a watch’s “face” or “hands”.  Perhaps this is a natural development given that … ContinuedThe post Meet my pet watch: Scientists create living smartwatch powered by slime appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Delugs introduces their new CTS rubber strap line-up Time+Tide
Feb 10, 2023

Delugs introduces their new CTS rubber strap line-up

The brand follows the success of their PRX straps with a new Delugs CTS Rubber Strap line Ensuring minimal bulk, the straps are cut to size for a custom fit Leaf spring butterfly clasps eliminate the need for buttons and complex mechanisms Delugs have an excellent track record when it comes to various executions of … ContinuedThe post Delugs introduces their new CTS rubber strap line-up appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

It’s 5 o’clock somewhere: My ill-advised quest to pair beer with watches Time+Tide
Feb 10, 2023

It’s 5 o’clock somewhere: My ill-advised quest to pair beer with watches

They say necessity is the mother of invention. Well, this would be more a case of “idle hands are the devil’s playground”. There is absolutely nothing necessary about any of this nonsense, but a passing series of ruminations has led to this question: what watch goes best with a given beer? Additionally, what qualities do … ContinuedThe post It’s 5 o’clock somewhere: My ill-advised quest to pair beer with watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

When Seiko Sumos Fly: Seiko Introduces a Pair of Solar Diver GMTs Ready for Your Next Adventure Abroad Worn & Wound
Seiko Sumos Fly Seiko Introduces Feb 9, 2023

When Seiko Sumos Fly: Seiko Introduces a Pair of Solar Diver GMTs Ready for Your Next Adventure Abroad

It seems to me that more recently, Seiko has had “travel” on the mind. I say that based on the steadily increasing incorporation of the GMT complication within their more entry-level products. Last year we finally saw a GMT movement make its way into the Seiko 5 sports line with the SSK GMT and we all went bananas for it. I mean how could we not? It’s a travel ready watch packaged into a familiar and beloved Seiko design at a very reasonable price point. Their Prospex line however, has more experience with jumping time zones as it already provides multiple models with a fourth hand like the compass bezel equipped SNR025 and the more traditional looking traveler with the SNR033. Last week, Seiko announced a new GMT addition to the Prospex range and much to our excitement, they’re taking a page out of their SSK GMT release by throwing in a GMT complication into a familiar case silhouette. The new models we’re referring to are the SKF001J1 and the SFK003J1. Essentially what we have here is the Seiko Sumo with an added feature of a GMT hand via a solar powered quartz movement and a dial modification to accommodate the additional hand. The Seiko Sumo, which gets its nickname from its portly case and the signature twelve o’clock marker resembling the “Mawashi” of a competing sumo wrestler, got several updates from last year’s release including a ceramic bezel, super-hard coating, new dial design and a refresh to the accompanying stainless steel bracelet. The SF...

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Victorinox Gift Guide Feb 8, 2023

A Bright Red Victorinox Gift Guide for Valentine’s Day Giving

If you think about the typical Valentine’s Day gifts, whether it’s flowers or chocolates, they tend to lean on the temporary side of gifting. Here at Worn & Wound, we like our gifts to be much for long-lasting and put the fun into functional. So who wouldn’t love to get some bright red Victorinox gear to celebrate a day typically full of red bouquets that’ll decay or red boxes of sweets that’ll disappear more quickly than they probably should. We know we’d choose a Victorinox for Valentine’s Day. The post A Bright Red Victorinox Gift Guide for Valentine’s Day Giving appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Vacheron Constantin Welcomes Panda Dial Chronograph to Overseas Collection Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Welcomes Panda Dial Chronograph Feb 7, 2023

Vacheron Constantin Welcomes Panda Dial Chronograph to Overseas Collection

The small world of high-end steel chronographs gets a little bigger today with the introduction of a new Overseas Chronograph reference from Vacheron Constantin featuring a ‘Panda’ dial colorway. The Overseas Chronograph has seen a range of colorways over the years, including a reverse panda that currently exists in the collection, but never a white/silver base dial with contrasting black sub-dials. As this colorway is known to do on already handsome watches (and even some not so handsome watches), it looks pretty damn good. As presented here, we’re left with what might be the cleanest manifestation of the Overseas Chronograph design to date.  The Overseas collection was first launched in 1996 (though it is the spiritual successor to the 222 first introduced in the mid ‘70s), and the Overseas Chronograph has seen a variety of executions in that time. In 2016, the watch welcomed the in-house caliber 5200 which moved the distinctive dual-aperture date complication to a single aperture at 4:30. It also gained a couple of millimeters in the process, going from 40mm to 42.5mm in diameter, and to 13.7mm in thickness. That said, it’s still a pretty nice watch on the wrist, as the case tapers under the bezel, and it’s a pretty flat profile along the bottom, so while it’s not wearing quite as trim as something like a Daytona (the 4130 caliber shares the same dimensions as the 5200 btw), it’s indeed more comfortable than you might expect. The real star of the show h...

INTRODUCING: MB&F; LM2 Palladium celebrates its 10-year anniversary Time+Tide
MB&F; Feb 7, 2023

INTRODUCING: MB&F; LM2 Palladium celebrates its 10-year anniversary

A decade after its first release, the MB&F; LM2 is back in a special palladium case Symmetrically opposed balance wheels connected by a planetary differential Movement developed by Jean-François Mojon of Chronode and finished by Kari Voutilainen By this point, it should be no surprise that whatever comes out of the fun factory in the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: MB&F; LM2 Palladium celebrates its 10-year anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Atelier de Chronométrie Debuts Proprietary M284 Movement SJX Watches
Feb 6, 2023

Atelier de Chronométrie Debuts Proprietary M284 Movement

Highly regarded for its artisanal movement finish, Atelier de Chronométrie relied entirely on vintage movements that were rebuilt and then decorated by hand. Now the brand finally has a movement to call its own with the M284. Vintage inspired like its timepieces, the M284 is a hand-wind calibre that makes its debut inside the AdC22 wristwatch. Initial thoughts AdC started out with watches that were equipped with refinished vintage movements that were beautifully decorated but not quite original enough to be special. The new proprietary movement – which has both fine finishing and tasteful design – elevates the brand to another level entirely. The classical layout, frequency, and short power reserve of just 38 hours seem to imply that the movement might be derived from a vintage ebauche, or at least built according to the architecture of a vintage movement. However, AdC states that the movement is a new construction done with the help of a specialist. Regardless of its origins, the M284 is a calibre executed well both in terms of design and decoration, as would be expected given AdC’s past work. Having examined several of prior AdC watches in detail, I imagine the M284 is finished extremely well and certainly on part with equivalent offerings from contemporary independent watchmakers. But AdC has the advantage of Mr Martinez’s aesthetic sensibility, which is perhaps even rarer than good movement decoration today. The design is clearly vintage inspired, but with sub...

Bargain alert: How you could snag 4 vintage Seikos for $44 Time+Tide
Seiko s Feb 4, 2023

Bargain alert: How you could snag 4 vintage Seikos for $44

In the internet age it’s become almost impossible to find a real bargain. People who don’t know what they have, can easily find out an item’s value with a quick search, and then throw their ads online with a firm price. On one hand, it’s hard to be angry about sellers getting fair value for … ContinuedThe post Bargain alert: How you could snag 4 vintage Seikos for $44 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is your expensive watch a turn-off for lovers and friends? Time+Tide
Feb 3, 2023

Is your expensive watch a turn-off for lovers and friends?

It was Henry Kissinger who famously claimed that “power is the ultimate aphrodisiac” and, given the philandering of countless politicians, it’s hard to argue with this assessment. In many cases, power does indeed seem to bestow an extra layer of sexual magnetism on plain men of sizeable influence. Yet when someone is not a recognisable … ContinuedThe post Is your expensive watch a turn-off for lovers and friends? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WOOO! That time wrestling legend Ric Flair lost his Rolex in a bowl of spaghetti Time+Tide
Rolex Jan 30, 2023

WOOO! That time wrestling legend Ric Flair lost his Rolex in a bowl of spaghetti

Editor’s note: Last Saturday the 2023 WWE Royal Rumble was held, so we are looking back at that time the greatest of all time Ric Flair told the tale of losing his Rolex watch in a bowl of spaghetti. Anyone who knows professional wrestling knows of the “Nature Boy” Ric Flair. The WWE Hall of … ContinuedThe post WOOO! That time wrestling legend Ric Flair lost his Rolex in a bowl of spaghetti appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Citizen’s Latest Pair of Divers Pay Tribute to Classic Promasters Worn & Wound
Citizen s Latest Pair Jan 30, 2023

Citizen’s Latest Pair of Divers Pay Tribute to Classic Promasters

Much of the country might be gripped by the dead of winter, but that doesn’t mean we can’t start thinking about the summer watches we’ll be wearing just a few (OK, maybe more than “a few”) months from now. In fact, I’d argue that a week where you see multiple major snowstorms leaving the landscape gray, salt stained, and dangerously icy is the perfect time to consider the next summer sports watch. The power of positive thinking, and whatnot. Citizen, it turns out, has a few contenders that have just been announced if you’re on the hunt for something fun and sporty for the warmer months. A bonus: these also work perfectly fine in an Ice Station Zebra situation, but I’m trying to lift myself out of a winter funk, so bear with me while I indulge a short lived fantasy of beach weather and strong drinks with those little umbrellas in them.  The pair of watches making their debut this month are built on Citizen’s fantastic Eco-Drive platform of solar charged quartz movements, perhaps the ultimate in affordable grab-and-go watch tech. Each watch is also based on Citizen classics from the early 00s, a period of time when the Big Watch trend was reaching a peak. The “Autozilla,” released in 2002, was a titanium dive watch with a water resistance rating of 1,000 meters in an enormous 55mm case. Citizen followed that watch up with the “Ecozilla,” a version of the watch with a similar case but powered by light, in 2004. Both are highly sought after by Citize...

VIDEO: Five of our favourite Vacheron Constantin releases of 2022 Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin releases Jan 29, 2023

VIDEO: Five of our favourite Vacheron Constantin releases of 2022

Some may refer to Vacheron Constantin as the third member of the Swiss holy trinity of watchmaking. But after an incredibly strong showing last year, Vacheron may be the one you really need to explore. Here are five of our favourite releases from Vacheron Constantin in 2022.     First up, is the brand’s irrefutable … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Five of our favourite Vacheron Constantin releases of 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ash Barty collaborates on a new Rado True Square inspired by her mum Time+Tide
Rado True Square inspired Jan 29, 2023

Ash Barty collaborates on a new Rado True Square inspired by her mum

Apparently, Rado can turn you into a tennis champion.  When the British player, Andy Murray partnered with the Swiss brand in 2012, he’d never won a Grand Slam. After signing with Rado, however, he proceeded to win the US Open and then became the first Brit to conquer Wimbledon since 1936, when he won the … ContinuedThe post Ash Barty collaborates on a new Rado True Square inspired by her mum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New: Grand Seiko SLGA021 inspired by Lake Suwa Deployant
Grand Seiko SLGA021 inspired Jan 28, 2023

New: Grand Seiko SLGA021 inspired by Lake Suwa

SLGA021 is the latest Grand Seiko watch borrowing from Lake Suwa. Looking upon the dial, one immediately recalls gently lapping waves wafting over wind-swept water. This “Lake Suwa” pattern was initially seen in 2021’s SLGA007. For SLGA021, it is finished in a deep blue that reads nearly black in lower light settings, capturing the look of Lake Suwa just before dawn. Against this dark base are broad markers and hands, all faceted and beautifully finished to emphasize clarity, beauty, and overall legibility.

Omega’s New Speedmaster Super Racing Has a Brand New Regulating System Allowing for Unheard of Accuracy Worn & Wound
Omega s New Speedmaster Super Jan 26, 2023

Omega’s New Speedmaster Super Racing Has a Brand New Regulating System Allowing for Unheard of Accuracy

Today, Omega has unveiled a new Speedmaster that their social media team has been teasing aggressively for the past few weeks. They promised a “tiny device” delivering a “massive change,” and to that end the announcement today is really more about mechanics than a new watch. There is a new watch, of course, but to the extent that today’s news excites you, it will almost certainly be a result of a very small component that Omega has completely rethought.  The Speedmaster Super Racing is the first timepiece from Omega to feature what they’re calling “Spirate” technology. Spirate is essentially a new method of movement regulation by way of a small knob connected to the balance that allows a watchmaker to adjust the rate in increments down to the tenth of a second. Omega claims that the end result is a movement that’s accurate to within 0/+2 seconds per day. Again, this is a mechanical movement that is, yes, METAS certified to be within two seconds per day. That’s Spring Drive level accuracy, without the benefit of quartz derived regulation. Assuming Spirate works as advertised (there’s no reason not to assume that given Omega’s proficiency in making highly accurate movements at a large scale) this is an enormously impressive accomplishment.  How does it work, exactly? Omega had to develop an entirely new silicon balance spring that can be adjusted for stiffness via a mechanism connected to the balance bridge (easily visible through the sapphire caseb...

Omega ousts Rolex with brand new technology that promises 0/+2 second accuracy a day Time+Tide
Omega ousts Rolex Jan 26, 2023

Omega ousts Rolex with brand new technology that promises 0/+2 second accuracy a day

New Spirate™ System debuts new hairspring with ultra-fine 0/+2 regulation capability. The system debuts in new Speedmaster Super Racing watch. Its usage beyond the Super Racing is planned, but consumers will need to wait for new calibres – not just new watches. COSC, METAS, Superlative, and more. There are various chronometer certifications within the industry today, with each, … ContinuedThe post Omega ousts Rolex with brand new technology that promises 0/+2 second accuracy a day appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Mark Cho’s Survey of Watch Size Preference and Our Own Wrist Size Perceptions is Back Worn & Wound
Jan 25, 2023

Mark Cho’s Survey of Watch Size Preference and Our Own Wrist Size Perceptions is Back

Data nerds, rejoice: Mark Cho’s watch size survey is back. Back in 2019, watch collector and menswear retailer Mark Cho conducted his first watch size survey in an attempt to put some data behind one of the most peculiar yet foundational facets of watch collecting (we wrote about that survey here). The questions in Mark’s survey go beyond simple preferences, but get to how we view our own wrist size. Is it smaller or larger than average? And what effect does that have on the watches we choose to buy? Mark even asks about preferences for a potential “secondary watch” (a sports watch for the weekend, for example) to put an even finer point on the way we feel about watch size.  When Mark first conducted the survey, he found that a significant percentage of respondents viewed their wrist as smaller than average, which could theoretically have been a result of the tail end of the Big Watch era making us all think our wrists were too small to comfortably handle some of the most popular watches of the time. In the relatively short period that’s passed since that first survey, though, smaller watches (not small watches) have fully come back into fashion, so it will be interesting to see if perceptions change along with preferences. Regardless, there’s sure to be a ton of data, and it will be interesting to comb through it once the survey is complete.  If you’re interested in Mark’s findings from that first survey, be sure to check out his lecture for the Horologi...

Why three guys decided to blast a MoonSwatch into space Time+Tide
Jan 22, 2023

Why three guys decided to blast a MoonSwatch into space

Space may have been the final frontier for the Starship Enterprise. But for watch brands it’s become a pretty well-travelled destination. Last year’s biggest watch release, Swatch’s BioCeramic MoonSwatch, was a playful homage to the original Moonwatch, and resulted in nine watches each connected to nine planets in the solar system. Yet beyond that, the … ContinuedThe post Why three guys decided to blast a MoonSwatch into space appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith El Primero Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Jan 20, 2023

Zenith El Primero Guide

The Zenith El Primero, found today in watches throughout Zenith’s collection, from the Chronomaster to the Defy to the Pilot, is arguably the watch world’s most famous movement - more widely known, in fact, than some of the watch models to whom it has given life during its half-century-plus of existence. The reasons for its renown are several, from the technical revolution it represented at its origin to the legendary role it played in the post-Quartz Crisis revival of the mechanical watch. Here we examine what made the El Primero so special in the first place and introduce you to some modern watches that demonstrate how it is still evolving and improving in the 21st century. A FOUNDATION OF PRECISION Watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot was a mere 22 years of age when he founded the atelier that would become Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland in 1865. Favre-Jacot, a contemporary of Swiss modern architecture pioneer le Corbusier, took his own pioneering approach to making watches, becoming one of the first to bring the various horological disciplines under one roof as opposed to the more common établissage system that most watchmakers used at the time, which had different parts made in different small workshops before being delivered to another workshop for assembly into a finished watch, Georges Favre-Jacot & co. became Zenith in 1911, the company taking its new name from a top-of-the-line movement it created that won a Grand Prix for precision at the 1900 Paris World’s F...