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WristBuzz
Limited to 260 pieces, the Freelancer World-Traveller packs a bidirectional city bezel, a worldtimer, and a relief dial into one anniversary statement
Fratello
Today marks 50 years since the Raymond Weil brand was established in Geneva. Coincidentally, it’s also the late founder and namegiver’s 100th birthday. To celebrate these joyful events, Raymond Weil unveiled the new Freelancer World-Traveler limited edition. The new Freelancer introduces a bidirectional bezel for operating the city ring and a stamped, textured relief world […] Visit Raymond Weil’s New Limited-Edition Freelancer World-Traveler Actually Makes You Feel Like One to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Can an affordable dress watch compete with a premium Swiss alternative? We compare the Orient Bambino and Mido Commander Datoday to see which is worth buying.
SJX Watches
The Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milano 2026 is a Patek Philippe extravaganza that’s on show until October 18 at CityOval, a restored 1920s sporting complex. Hundreds of timepieces populate the over-30,000 sq ft space, including 99 from the venerable Patek Philippe Museum. But some watches stand out, for reasons ranging from artisanal beauty to historical significance – here’s five worth paying attention to. Starting with the present day are a duo from the Rare Handcrafts collection put together specifically for this event. These are proof that beauty is both rare and expensive – each is a one-off and costs about US$800,000. The first is the Rare Handcrafts Pocket Watch ref. 995/147G-001 “Venetian Cruise” that is literal: the reverse depicts a journey across the waters of Venice from the perspective of a passenger on a runabout, perhaps a Riva. The scene is something of a modern riff on classical painting depicting the entrance to the Grand Canal of Venice. The wood deck of the boat is actually wood – the dial has over 330 pieces of wood forming the marquetry motif. The lake and buildings, which include the Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute, are in miniature enamel painting. The juxtaposition of techniques and intricacy of the work make this a particularly compelling piece. In contrast, the front of the watch is functional and almost no-frills, yet entirely appropriate. The dial is modelled on the instruments on the dashboard of a boat, explaining the funct...
SJX Watches
Today marks the second annual World Watch Day, celebrated on October 10 in a clever nod to the familiar “10:10” depiction of watch hands. This year’s theme, “Time as Living Heritage”, puts the people of Sainte-Croix at the centre of the occasion. A training course at Association Mec-Art Marking the event, our founder SJX participated in a round-table discussion about preserving and passing on the skills of both watchmaking and mechanical art. The panel included De Bethune co-founder Denis Flageollet and automaton maker François Junod, who helped establish the Association Mec-Art, watchmaker Vianney Halter, The 1916 Company’s Tim Mosso, and Karin Alexandrian of the Musée des Arts et Métiers. Europa Star’s Pierre Maillard moderated the conversation. Denis Flageollet of De Bethune co-founded the Association Mec-Art in 2016 with automaton-makers François Junod and Nicolas Court The organisers, Association Mec-Art and the Musée de la Mécanique d’Art et du Patrimoine de Sainte-Croix (MuMAPS), work to safeguard the traditions explored in our earlier story on the unique skills being preserved in Sainte-Croix. These extend beyond watches to music boxes, mechanical singing birds, and automata. Mec-Art helps keep the skills alive through creative projects and practical courses, while MuMAPS is the local museum dedicated to mechanical art and the town’s heritage. The shared challenge is to ensure that future generations can still make and repair these objects, ...
WristBuzz
The latest GO x Meissen collab brings a hand-painted Jugatsu-zakura cherry blossom dial to the Senator family
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage U.S.Steel Lord Elgin Presentation Watch Here’s a cool piece to start us off this week, a vintage Lord Elgin U.S. Steel presentation watch. As one might expect, the case is steel, and looks to be unpolished with crisp edges and nice lugs. The caseback is engraved as a presentation to Gilbert Yager for 41 years of service to USS, dated February 1959. 41 years, that’s impressive! I hope Gibert got a little more than a watch though for that long! Anyways, the silver dial is clean, with applied steel hour markers and a nice subseconds dial at 6. There is a USS logo printed on the dial. No movement pictures but the watch runs per the seller. Fun piece with a cool history! View auction here Vintage Tissot Seastar Chronograph Next up is a sharp looking vintage Tissot Seastar chronograph. The 35mm steel case is unpolished with the original vertical brushed finish and sharp edges. Behind the scratched up acrylic crystal is a nice looking black dial with three white subdials. The dial looks to be in great shape, with applied steel baton markers and steel paddle hands. The large crown is signed with the Tissot “T” logo as it should be. The watch is powered by what looks to be a L...
Hodinkee
Ebel, once one of the most successful and top-selling Swiss watch brands, which has fallen into relative obscurity under the ownership of Movado Group, is being sold to a consortium of high-profile buyers, including François-Paul Journe and Chanel, who plan to revive the Ebel marque with hopes of returning it to its former glory. Vintage Ebel chronographs. Photo courtesy of Phillips; credit: James Kong. Movado Group, Inc. says it entered into a binding agreement to sell a 95% interest in the Ebel brand for $66.5 million to a strategic buyer group led by Geneva-based Montres Journe SA, with the participation of French luxury house Chanel and Pierre Jacques, a long-time industry executive. Jacques, who previously headed De Bethune for more than a decade, will take over as CEO of Ebel while Movado, with shares publicly listed on the New York Stock Exchange, which purchased the brand from LVMH in 2004, will retain a 5% stake in the business when the deal is completed, the parties said in a statement. The agreement underscores the growing business interest in reviving faded luxury Swiss watch brands once revered by watch consumers. Breitling paid more than CHF 60 million to acquire the Universal Genève brand and archives and relaunched it as a high-end luxury marque earlier this year. Ebel was once a major player in the industry, thriving during the quartz crisis era of the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s under Pierre-Alain Blum, a third-generation leader of the family-owned busi...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Baltic introduces the Hermétique The Rift, an affordable automatic field watch with a colorful dial, full lume, and a new 34mm case.
Hodinkee
Welcome to Friday, Baller. We're in busy times, what with the weather changing, and, at least in the States, we're enjoying an embarrassment of riches movie-wise, with a new Sorkin movie just having opened and two incredible new movies—The Only Living Pickpocket In New York and You Can See Everything premiering next Friday. I, for one, am already stocking up on popcorn. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Lucien Piccard Telephone and the Mappin and Webb watches remain available, while the Omega Admiralty and JLC Master Mariner have both sold. Strays I don't know if "understated bling" is a thing or not, but if such a category exists, it is absolutely where this Piaget Protocole in white gold from Rare Birds belongs. If Seiko's announcement of its newest panda chronograph whetted your appetite, here's an awfully great vintage Wittnauer two-register chronograph on auction from Loupe This, which, no, isn't as cute and lacks ears for pushers, but is still a great watch. Should you, after reading more down below about Abercrombie & Fitch watches, find yourself in the market for a vintage alarm watch from the brand, look no further. Photo courtesy of Rarebirds. Vintage lesser-known great-looking diver? Absolutely. Interesting vintage Rolex Prince? Why not. On the one hand, I've never seen any LeCoultre chronograph configured like this one. On the other hand: everything appears correct—signed dial and movement, appropriate wear, etc.—so who knows. Finally, for those who wan...
Hodinkee
With the massive rise in interest in independent brands over the past few years, it seems like it's basically impossible to even begin to meet with watchmakers these days, let alone have a meaningful conversation with them or see their watches. I have to field the question "How do I meet ___" at least once a week. No matter the answer, it requires some effort. But what if I told you that you could walk into a room and see Rexhep Rexhepi chatting with Max Büsser, right next to Kari Voutilainen, who is looking at Jean-Claude Biver's watch while Jean Arnault looks at Trilobe. All while Rémy Cools, Theo Auffret, Gaël Petermann, and Florian Bédat are chatting at a table nearby, their watches in hand. That's IAMWATCH in Singapore, and it's happening again from November 12 to 15 at the Singapore Edition. Kari Voutilainen and Jean-Claude Biver. I was there two years ago at the first iteration of what I will say is one of the most "me" watch fairs ever made; you can see my 2024 Photo Report here for a sense of the event. I love the people of the watchmaking as much as I love the watches—maybe even more because I can't afford most of the big-name independents, but I can enjoy talking to them and learning from them all the same. The Hour Glass, one of the world's largest retailers, is also putting it on, and it's run by long-time avowed independent watchmaking acolyte and Managing Director Michael Tay. Proof of how stacked this event is comes from the list of names I'm going to...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
We compare the Seiko Turtle and Citizen Promaster NY0040 after hands-on testing to find out which affordable automatic dive watch delivers more.
Monochrome
Angelus continues to revive its historical stopwatch designs with the new Chronographe Tachymètre, a trio of compact monopusher watches that follows last year’s Chronographe Télémètre. The new watches share the same case and hand-wound A5000 calibre as their predecessors, but replace the telemeter scale with a tachymeter designed to measure speed – more on the […]
Hodinkee
What We Know Angelus has dropped the curtain on three new limited-edition watches built on the same platform as the fan-favorite (and GPHG-winning) Chronographe Télémètre, only not quite. With this trio of novelties — appropriately dubbed the Chronographe Tachymètre — Angelus has dropped the telemeter scale, replacing it with a tachymeter, and bringing with it a slightly sportier look than we've come to expect from Angelus's most compact modern offering. The new model follows up a limited-edition take on the idea of a Chronographe Télémètre released in collaboration with Monochrome Watches earlier this year. But where that watch featured a double-tracked tachymeter and a decidedly vintage aesthetic, these new watches offer a decidedly different take on the concept, leaning into the look of midcentury racing watches. Here, that means you have the same bi-register chronograph layout, but with a single-track tachymeter and subdials finished in contrasting colors. Like the Chronographe Télémètre that preceded it, the new Chronographe Tachymètre is offered in three configurations, with two of those in steel cases and the other in yellow gold. The yellow gold offering — which is limited to 15 pieces — is fitted with a yellow-gold-tone dial with green (really, a very dark grey with a greenish hue) accents. The stainless steel watches are offered with either a salmon dial with grey accents or a grey dial with blue accents. These watches come in editions of 30 an...
Time+Tide
The House of Brands is looking to restore Gallet and Universal Genéve to their former glory; Kari Voutilainen and Alex Rosenfield relaunched Urban Jürgensen; and now Chanel and F.P. Journe will look to revitalise another cult classic watchmaker: Ebel. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Pierre Jacques (@pierre_jacques1) Earlier today, … Continued
Monochrome
In a recent announcement by the Movado Group, Ebel is set to be acquired by a strategic buyer group led by Montres Journe SA, with the participation of Chanel (partial owner of F.P. Journe) and industry veteran and ex-CEO of De Bethune, Pierre Jacques. The latter will serve as Chief Executive Officer of Ebel. The […]
SJX Watches
On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, SJX returns from London and Milan with impressions of two very different demonstrations of watchmaking’s biggest names at work. Rolex’s “Four Seasons” Daytona auction broke the record for the biggest charity watch auction in history, raising nearly US$50 million, but a longer run-up might possibly have pushed the result even higher. In Milan, Patek Philippe unveiled the ref. 5978P, pairing an instantaneous perpetual calendar with its manually wound chronograph. The exhibition’s Rare Handcrafts and Italian-market limited editions also offer plenty to debate, from remarkable pocket watches to a Ferrari-red minute repeater. Finally, we discuss highlights from Marteau & Co’s fourth online auction, which runs from October 8-15th. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
SJX Watches
New York-based Wren has introduced the Vessel, an integrated-bracelet sports watch with an unusually elaborate sapphire crystal. Designed by Max Resnick under founder Craig Karger’s direction, its futuristic case and crystal mark Wren’s first departure from the dive watch format and help establish a broader identity for the brand. Initial thoughts The name Wren is a portmanteau of Wrist Enthusiast, the online watch publication founded by Mr Karger. The brand’s first watch, the Diver One, was introduced in 2024, and Wren has stuck to dive watches ever since. The Vessel, however, is anything but a diver. By venturing far beyond its initial design language, Wren has carved out considerable space in which to develop its identity. In doing so, Wren has taken a page out of the Berneron playbook with a sophomore effort that is almost as different from its debut as it could be. Perhaps because the look is so different, the Vessel features an aqua blue seconds hand and winding rotor to match the dial colour of the original Diver One. The Vessel’s design was penned by British designer Max Resnick under Mr Karger’s creative direction. Originally trained in automotive design, Mr Resnick has worked with several other small brands, including Anoma and VPC. The vision called for an integrated-bracelet sports watch that avoided channelling the same handful of historical designs from the 1970s. The resulting look has more in common with Alto than Audemars Piguet. The angular desi...
SJX Watches
The Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue adds a dark blue ceramic case to the brand’s 500 m dive watch collection. It’s a more casual take on the Supermarine, with a restrained colour and carefully finished case that give the Sellita-powered diver a more stylish, less tactical character. Initial thoughts Sometimes it’s surprising how much difference a colour can make. In the case of the Bremont Supermarine, the navy blue hue of the ceramic case and bezel results in a look that is quite different from that of its black ceramic stablemates. The deep blue colour is very subtle, and to my eye looks less plasticky than some brighter blue ceramic competitors. The prominent texture of the brushing on the case gives it vaguely a metallic appearance, and it at a glance it could almost pass for PVD-coated steel. While ceramic is not a perfect material and can crack under extreme torsion or if dropped onto a sufficiently hard surface, the real-world benefits outweigh these edge cases. The natural scratch-resistance of ceramic pays dividends when changing straps, for example, as the spring bars cannot scratch the inside of the lugs when finding their seat. There’s also an ancillary benefit to ceramic, which is that service watchmakers will not be tempted to try to polish it. The Supermarine’s strengths lie in its finely executed dial and relatively slim case. The wave-inspired dial pattern is dramatic without being overpowering, while the 13 mm thickness and flat case ...
Monochrome
Announced in June 2026, Basilia marks the return of a watch and jewellery fair to Basel, just a few years after the spectacular collapse and disappearance of Baselworld. Three months after its announcement, Basilia Jewellery & Watch Fair appears to be gaining momentum. Will the new Basel show turn early exhibitor interest into a successful and […]
SJX Watches
In a surprise move, a consortium led by Montres Journe and comprising Chanel and Pierre Jacques, the former chief executive of De Bethune, has acquired Ebel from its longtime American owners, the Movado Group. According to the deal announcement, the consortium is buying 95% of Ebel for US$66.5 million, with the remaining shares to be retained by Movado. The three-party consortium evidently brings different skills to the table, including the financial firepower of Chanel, the watchmaking know-how of François-Paul Journe, and the operational and managerial expertise of Mr Jacques. Movado, on the other hand, might be relieved to have unloaded Ebel, which it unsuccessfully tried to revive over its two decades of ownership. From left: François-Paul Journe, Efraim Grinberg of Movado, Frédéric Grangié of Chanel, and Pierre Jacques. Image – Pierre Jacques Once a high flying brand that was one of the biggest in Switzerland during its 1980s and 1990s heyday, Ebel was famous for its Sport Classique, often nicknamed “wave”, which featured integrated bracelets resembling a wave. Launched in 1977, the model launched Ebel into the stratosphere, with its workforce growing 15 times and revenue reaching nine figures. Ebel was led during this time by Pierre-Alain Blum, grandson of its founders and a shrewd marketer. In the year just after the Quartz Crisis, Ebel was a luxury giant. Amongst the indicators of Ebel’s success and scale during this period: Cartier turned to Ebel to p...
Fratello
Today, in a special episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho and Lex are in Geneva for a chat with independent watch designer and entrepreneur Sylvain Berneron. The conversation kicks off with Berneron’s career in design, his time at major watch companies, and his decision to establish a brand of his own. Berneron’s background is somewhat unusual […] Visit Fratello Talks: Sylvain Berneron to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
We tested the Casio Duro and Timex Deepwater Meridian 200 to see which affordable quartz diver delivers the better everyday wearing experience.
Hodinkee
What We Know Last year, Glashütte Original released a trio of porcelain-dial watches as part of its collaboration with Meissen, Europe's oldest porcelain manufacturer, dating back to 1710. Today, the two historic German houses are partnering again, this time to release a new porcelain-dial watch inspired by Jugatsu-zakura, a Japanese cherry blossom that flowers intermittently during the colder months. The "Cherry Blossom" Senator Meissen retains all of the original collaboration's specs: It measures 40mm wide and 10.2mm thick, is set in red gold, and features an exhibition sapphire crystal caseback. It also comes on a dark blue Louisiana alligator leather strap with a red-gold pin buckle. The dial is made of a thin slice of white porcelain that acts as a canvas for the hand-painted layers, which are fired at 900° Celsius between each layer to achieve maximum depth and intensity. Glashütte Original's lettering and Meissen's crossed swords logo are hand-painted near the center, but besides that, the dial has a blank format. The exclusion of any hour markers, numerals, or indices allows the cherry blossom motif, with its slender branches that extend upward and delicate, pale-pink flowers, to shine—punctuated only by solid-gold hour and minute hands. Powered by Glashütte Original's in-house automatic Caliber 36-16, the watch offers 100 hours of power reserve and operates at 4 Hz. The movement also features a silicon balance spring and a stop-seconds mechanism. (aka hacki...
Monochrome
Pequignet was founded in 1973 in Morteau, the historic heart of French watchmaking in the Jura mountains. In the early 2000s, the brand made a bold decision to become an integrated French manufacture and launched its first in-house Calibre Royal in 2011. The brand’s fortunes stabilised in 2021 when it joined Enowe Excellence, a family-owned […]
Time+Tide
Raymond Weil celebrates 50 years in Sydney with archive highlights, the Freelancer Complete Calendar, and a glimpse of what’s next.
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Hodinkee
New York Watch Week is almost here, and we're kicking off the jam-packed weekend with the next installment of Hodinkee Happy Hour at Grotta. With watch enthusiasts and industry folk coming into town from near and far, it's the perfect opportunity to grab a beer, eat some pizza, and catch up with the New York watch community. Space is limited, so be sure to RSVP right away. Our Editor-in-Chief, James Stacey, will be there, along with Deputy Editor Tim Jeffreys and other Hodinkee team members. We'd love for you join, whether you're a regular or it's your first time attending one of our events. See you there! Date:Wednesday, October 14, 2026, 6-8 PMLocation:Grotta Local177 Mulberry StNew York, NY 10013 RSVP Here.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Timex Marlin Chatham brings a cushion case and unexpected Breguet numerals to the brand’s growing lineup of affordable automatic watches.
SJX Watches
The Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater returns with a transparent red mineral crystal dial and an updated movement, 12 years after the original introduced chiming complications to the brand. Combining a wearable case with a clear view of the striking racks, it makes a convincing addition to the more mechanically focused side of the collection. Initial thoughts After 12 years of minute repeaters and musical wristwatches, it’s easy to take Jacob & Co.’s presence in the category for granted. Working closely with external specialists, the brand has developed an impressive portfolio of striking watches in a remarkably short time. That repertoire encompasses the decimal repeater of the Twin Turbo Furious, the three-gong carillon of the Astronomia Maestro, and the combination of a music box and minute repeater in the Opera Godfather. These different approaches to sound illustrate the breadth of the brand’s ambitions and its relationships with specialist movement makers. We recently sat down with Jacob & Co. chief executive Benjamin Arabov to discuss how smaller watches like the Palatial have helped broaden the brand’s clientele. Mr Arabov admitted that he is affectionately known by some of his staff as the “size dictator”, due to his insistence on reducing dimensions while retaining the mechanical creativity. While the brand still makes a number of extremely large watches, the increase in smaller, more wearable options has attracted a new clientele...
Deployant
Jacob & Co releases a new minute repeater tourbillon with a vibrant red trransluscent dial: introducing the Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater.
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