Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: The Seiko Credor Eichi II
The low-key peak of Japanese watchmaking.
34,463 articles · 109 videos found · page 1005 of 1153
Hodinkee
The low-key peak of Japanese watchmaking.
Time+Tide
We recently covered up-and-coming British manufacturer Zero West, and their Spitfire S4-P9427 aviation watch. But pilot’s watches are not the only horological ace up their sleeve, they also encapsulate great moments in British history on land and sea. Across all three lines, one common theme they share are distinctive cases and aesthetics that can only … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Zero West TT-58 gets revved up with Aston Martin’s panache appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Tudor has just opened its latest boutique in Singapore, marking the occasion with an exhibition of vintage Tudor watches that chart the evolution of the brand’s dive watches since the 1950s – Six Decades of Tudor Divers’ Watches. Taking place from December 1-13 at the boutique in ION Orchard mall, the exhibition showcases pivotal historical models, with five watches from the Tudor’s museum on show, including the first-ever Tudor dive watch, the ref. 7922 as well as the “snowflake” issued to the divers of the French navy. Here’s a look at some of the highlights on show. The display of diver’s watches, and in the background a 1986 photo of Marine Nationale divers wearing the Tudor Submariner ref. 9401. Photo – Tudor The Submariner ref. 9401/0 “MN” issued to French navy divers The early days Established by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf with the intention providing more affordable watches that nonetheless had the same dependability as Rolex timepieces, Tudor has a rich history in water-resistant watches catered to professionals since the 1940s. Naturally, its most iconic sports watches have been dive watches, a lineage that started in 1954 with the self-winding Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7922. The ref. 7922 The brand’s first dive watch, the ref. 7922 was launched a year after Rolex unveiled its first Submariner. As with all Tudor watches of the 20th century, much of the ref. 7922, save for the movement, was manufactured by Rolex, resulting in a watch ...
Deployant
Last week we took the first step towards attempting to make macro photographs of watches using large format cameras and lenses with sheet film. This journey begins in small steps, the first being to start with a 4×5 large format camera and lens, but using a digital back, as it allows us immediate feedback, andRead More
SJX Watches
Previously, in Part I of this series, we analysed and reviewed over 40 watch movements in terms of their potential chronometric performance – via the Horological Density Factor (HDF), which encompasses balance power and power reserve against the size of the movement – and debated the various trade-offs that had been made in order to achieve specific technical or aesthetic characteristics. Many readers then asked how more commonly known and accessible movements compare. To answer that we needed more data from the industry. Fortunately, Swiss movement makers Valjoux, Fabrique d’Horlogerie de Fontainemelon, Unitas, as well as their parent company Ebauches SA – now all part of ETA – once published beautifully comprehensive, detailed data sheets that included balance wheel inertia values. Armed with this data, we have been able to analyse and plot a further 25 movements alongside the previous group (with the disclaimer that it might not be fully up to date since the data sheets date from before the Quartz Crisis in the 1970s) to give a total of 68 to allow further investigation and review. The analysis Several popular movements have been added: the workhorse ETA 2824-1 and -2, the ubiquitous ETA Valjoux 7750 chronograph, the large diameter ETA Unitas 6497-1 and -2, and the ETA Peseux 7001. We also added, among others, the integrated chronograph cal. 4130 in the Rolex Daytona, and the modular chronograph versions of both the ETA 2892 (known as the ETA 2894) as well as...
Quill & Pad
The RM 72-01 is a first for Richard Mille – a relaxed, playful flyback chronograph that, while as interesting and eye-catching as its siblings, is quite a different mechanical beast from the others thanks to its in-house chronograph movement with a variety of new elements and even a world-first in watchmaking.
Hodinkee
A vehicular state of mind.
Hodinkee
A longtime friend of the show is joining HODINKEE, which means our founder can focus on the stuff he loves.
Deployant
We go hands-on in this in-depth review of the Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar in the new beautiful forest green dégradé dial.
Revolution
Longines presents Spirit, a new collection that, while inspired by the legends of the past, is full of modernity.
SJX Watches
A newly established specialist retailer in Dubai, Perpétuel is making its debut with the Baltic x Perpétuel HMS and Bicompax, a pair of watches conceived to mark the 49th National Day of the United Arab Emirates, which was formed in 1971, hence the 71-piece edition. Both are variations of the signature timepieces of Baltic, a French brand that got its start on crowdfunding platform Kickstarter and has since made accessibly priced, retro-style watches its specialty. The HMS Initial thoughts Baltic offers a strong value proposition with its vintage-inspired watches featuring stepped bezels and sector dials that are powered by Chinese movements, explaining the affordable pricing. The Perpétuel editions are novel. Although their Eastern Arabic numerals on the dial are common in watches for the Middle East, they are not often found in entry-level watches, especially those with retro designs. Combined with the forest-green dial colour, both models are very much catered to the culture of the Middle East. But they also have substantial appeal for anyone outside the region, thanks to the colour, smart design, and graceful style of the Eastern Arabic script. But the Perpétuel are pricey, being notably more expensive than the standard models. However, they are still affordable in absolute terms, and considering the small, 71-piece run, remain fair value for money. HMS and Bicompax Both the HMS and Bicompax share the same case dimensions of 38 mm by 12 mm. Matched with a domed Hes...
SJX Watches
Instrumental in Panerai’s rise as the “it” brand of the 2000s were the action-hero celebrities who favoured its oversized dive watches. The singular most important personality in establishing the brand in popular culture was Sylvester Stallone, who wore this very Luminor 5218-201/A “pre-Vendome” in the 1996 film Daylight, where he played a firefighter leading survivors out of a collapsed tunnel. Mr Stallone with the Panerai on his right wrist in Daylight A product of the original Panerai company in Italy before the brand moved to Switzerland after Richemont acquired it, the watch has been consigned for sale at Phillips’ upcoming New York watch auction by Mr Stallone himself. It’s being offered exactly as it was worn on screen, including the sharkskin strap – along with paraphernalia relating to the film as well as a hand-written note stating he wore the watch during its production. Four other watches of Mr Stallone’s, all Richard Mille, are also in the sale, including the RM 32 he wore in The Expendables 3. The Stallone collection In the mid 1990s Mr Stallone also had an informal partnership with Panerai, reputedly receiving several watches from the brand, which then produced several runs of limited edition watches dubbed “Sly Tech” after Mr Stallone’s nickname. Mr Stallone became an early adopter of Panerai not long after it starting making wristwatches once again in 1993 thanks to Monty Shadow, a photographer born in the former Yugoslavia who i...
SJX Watches
Having made its debut two years ago with the original Model 1, Anordain has just announced the Model 1 Fumé that features a fired enamel dial in graduated, translucent colour. Based in the Scottish city of Glasgow, Anordain’s specialty are vitreous enamel dials in lightly-designed, affordable watches, and the Model 1 Fumé boasts the most elaborate dial to date. Brightly coloured in the centre and darkening towards the edges, the dial of the new Model 1 is the result of experimenting with a silver dial base, instead of the usual copper. After a year’s worth of trial and error, Anordain’s pair of in-house enamellers finally perfected the smoked enamel dial. Initial thoughts With its fired enamel dial in pastel colours, the original Model 1 was an appealing watch with even more appealing value, being priced at a little under US$1,400 at the time. It was a modestly sized watch with a simple dial that was still distinctive, thanks to the proprietary typography and smart dial design. And the recognisable texture and colour of the enamel dial made it even better. The new Model 1 is essentially identical in terms of size and style. Although the case has been subtly redesigned, it retains the same dimensions, which means it wears well and feels a little bit like a vintage watch, albeit one that’s quite thick for the diameter. But the new dial is far more striking. In fact, the dial is similar to that found on last year’s Model 2, a good-looking watch that is a little b...
Revolution
Revolution speaks with Robert-Jan Broer of fratellowatches.com, on the launch of their limited edition watch made in partnership with Oris. The Fratello x Oris Big Crown Pointer Date is a 40mm bronze cased rendition of the watch with an oxblood dial that features rose gold colored hands and gilt print. The 300-piece limited edition will be sold exclusively through https://shop.fratello.com/ priced at €1,950
Time+Tide
Limited-edition collaborations in the watch industry are growing in popularity in 2020. We wanted to dig a bit deeper and get some behind-the-scenes insight on the sumptuous new hook-up between Fratello Watches and Oris. We can really only liken this combination to a glass of Bordeaux in a rich golden goblet for the wrist. I … ContinuedThe post How a DIY custom-job inspired Fratello’s detail-rich new collaboration with Oris (and why it’s not a Speedmaster) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Soon after the very first of the Simplicity 20th Anniversary sold for a record US$1.51 million, Philippe Dufour revealed that Lebanese watch collector and gem merchant Claude Sfeir will now be his exclusive retailer worldwide. Historically selling direct to clients but also represented by a handful of retailers around the world, most notably Shellman in Tokyo, Mr Dufour has now streamlined his distribution. Having known Mr Dufour for some 40 years, Mr Sfeir will handle the sale of the 20 Simplicity 20th Anniversary watches, as well as whatever timepieces Mr Dufour may debut in the future. With Mr Dufour himself keeping the last of the 21 anniversary timepieces, the first 10 examples will be sold direct to clients. While not revealing the specifics of the allocation process, Mr Sfeir noted during a phone conversation he hoped to that the watches would be evenly distributed around the world. The last 10 watches will be allocated in a lottery that will take place in Switzerland. It will be a formal event, with a huissier de justice – an officer of the court in Switzerland – serving as a witness. According to Mr Sfeir, the restructuring of the distribution will not only help Mr Dufour build a more commercially sustainable business, but also ensure the Dufour brand name can continue into the next generation. Mr Sfeir also let on that Mr Dufour’s daughter, Daniela, is almost done with her watchmaking education. She will join Mr Dufour at the bench at the end of 2020, o...
Hodinkee
Thousands of requests, only ten watches – is your name in the hat?
Deployant
A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Thin Honeygold “Homage to F. A. Lange” Exactly 175 years ago, a certain Ferdinand Adolph Lange, then only 30 years old, set out to create what would become a beacon of fine watchmaking not just in Germany, but the entire world: A. Lange & Söhne. This year, on the 175thRead More
SJX Watches
Launched in 2004 as an offshoot of the 2000 Series, the Aquaracer is the quintessential TAG Heuer dive watch. Solidly constructed and usually good value, the Aquaracer has pretty much stuck to the same aesthetic since it was launched. But it leaves staid looks behind with the Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition, a surprisingly cool diver designed by Bamford Watch Department (BWD), the watch customiser par excellence. Coming a week after the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Ghost, the new Aquaracer is the second BWD collab in as many weeks. But the Aquaracer at the other end of the spectrum, both in design and price. The Laureato Ghost was entirely in white ceramic, while the Aquaracer is all matte titanium and more accessibly priced – although it is expensive for an Aquaracer. Initial thoughts BWD excels at applying new colours and textures to existing designs to create a whole new look. This has been achieved here, most notably with the sandblasted finish on the case and bracelet. Because the material is titanium – nearly all Aquaracers to date are steel – the result is a grey, granular surface that gives it the feel of no-nonsense “tool” watch. The dial features a notable degree of nuance for a “tool” watch, including a radial pattern and moulded Super-Luminova blocks for hour markers. A quirky detail that’s been found on other BWD watches also makes an appearance here: an alternating white-and-orange tip for the seconds hand, which brings to mind a clownfish o...
Time+Tide
In Scandinavia, our long dark winters should be a fertile breeding ground for horology. Just as the oppressive gloom sent the Swiss inside to tinker about with watchmaking tools and lathes, you might expect a similar tradition to have developed in these parts – Scandinavian design and Nordic minimalism are, after all, deeply engrained in … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Bravur x Wingårdh delivers Nordic modernism at its most clean and serene appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Last week, we talked about six modern watch icons that have made an impact in the watch industry. We think that although we have featured six watches, it is certainly not enough to cover the array of wonderful watches that deserve a spot on the list. Hence, in this week’s article, we have decided toRead More
Quill & Pad
The Montblanc 2020 High Artistry Heritage Egyptomania Limited Edition writing instruments use the treasures and traditions of Egypt as inspiration, and in a new twist each pen is encased in an octagonal “sarcophagus.” A special mechanism opens and closes the bejeweled receptacle, which is as functional as it is decorative and most unusual in the world of luxury pens.
Deployant
In this Chillout TGIFridays episode, we begin our exploration into using large format cameras and lenses to do watch macro photography. Large format cameras for watch photography Large format cameras have historically been the mainstay in professional work, where maximum image quality is of critical importance. These are large cameras, often reduced to the essenceRead More
SJX Watches
Having restored one of the Louvre’s most important timepieces – La Création du Monde, an 18th-century astronomical clock owned by King Louis XV – Vacheron Constantin subsequently announced a three-year partnership with the Parisian museum last year. The very first collaborative project between the watchmaker and museum has finally arrived: Les Cabinotiers “Bid for the Louvre”. A one-off timepiece that will feature a miniature of a work of art in Louvre selected by the client – who will chose it during a private tour of the museum – the watch will be sold at Bid for the Louvre, an online auction at Christie’s that takes place from December 1-15. Other luxury brands as well as contemporary artists have also contributed items to Bid for the Louvre, and all proceeds from the auction will go to the museum. The courtyard of the Louvre with the famous glass pyramid designed by I.M. Pei Initial thoughts Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art watches are decorated with varied artisanal decorative techniques, but they are almost always exceptionally beautiful. The dials are sometimes intricate, sometimes delicate, and occasionally elaborately ornamental, but always executed to a high level, by both the brand’s in-house artisans as well as independent specialists like Anita Porchet. In fact, many of the Métiers d’Art watches feature dial work finer than comparable watches from the competition. What makes the Louvre watch special is the opportunity to rep...
Quill & Pad
Looking at the Louis Moinet Space Revolution, the latest in the brand's Cosmic Art collection, fills you with incredulity: is it a watch? Is it a piece of kinetic art? Is it a bird? Is it a plane? Or did it spring from the mind of George Lucas? Make up your own mind by checking it out right here.
Revolution
A new 1500-piece limited edition is the latest collaboration between TAG Heuer and Bamford Watch Department; this time it’s an Aquaracer and as racy as the name suggests.
SJX Watches
Perhaps the quintessential Blancpain dress watch, the Villeret is simple yet distinctive in style. Named after the own where Blancpain was founded, the Villeret collection has existed since the resurrection of the brand in the 1980s, but almost always with a white dial. So the latest to join the line up is unusual: the Villeret Extraplate Boutique Edition, a richly coloured watch in yellow gold and metallic olive green. Initial thoughts While exceedingly simple in design, the Villeret is made up of several subtle elements that make its instantly recognisable. The Roman numerals, for instance, have an unusual, geometric font that give them a slightly modern look. Add to that leaf hands with an open centre, and the narrow, double-stepped, bezel, and it is a Villeret. The design is easily defined, but the Villeret line up is mostly made up of watches that resemble each other – most commonly a solemn white dial matched with a rose gold case. The highlight of the new model is its colour, which makes a big difference. A first for Blancpain, the combination of a yellow gold case with a green dial is starkly different from the typical Villeret iterations. The colours are more contemporary and less old fashioned, resulting in a dress watch that stands out. Because both the case and dial colours are warm, the watch has a rich, saturated look that is striking, but perhaps not for everyone. That said, it is only 40 mm wide and 8.7 mm high, compact dimension that give it a discree...
Watch consumers are always looking for a fresh new face to add to their wrists and collections. The irony, however, is we also tend to flock to familiar designs – references we believe are iconic. So how do we solve this problem? As per usual, Bamford has the answer. The Bamford Watch Department is known … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
“The desire of gold is not for gold. It is for the means of freedom and benefit” – Ralph Waldo Emerson
Deployant
Marking the 15th anniversary of the brand’s most robust and distinctive collection, Ball launches the new Engineer Hydrocarbon Original. We had the watch as a daily beater for about a week, and here is our in-depth review, and explore the technical features. Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original Ref. DM2118B-SCJ-BK Retail price: SGD 4,250 inclusive of GSTRead More
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