Hodinkee
Watching Movies: Matt Damon Forgets His Name But Finds His TAG Heuer In 'The Bourne Identity'
Our watch-related movie of the week showcases an iconic '90s chrono in a core 2000s thriller.
Results for Equation of Time
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Hodinkee
Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Telemeter 1938 Review
The Tissot Telemeter 1938, which joined the Swiss brand's vintage-influenced Heritage collection in summer 2022, has garnered enthusiasts' attention with its charmingly retro design, optimized chronograph movement, and enticing price-to-value ratio. We had a chance to go hands-on with both versions of the Tissot Telemeter 1938; read on for the results from our in-depth review. Overview and History By just about any historical standard, 1938 was generally a pretty dark year, marked by the lingering economic woes of the Great Depression, the violence of Kristallnacht, and the slow march to war in Europe, with Germany annexing Austria and partitioning Czechoslovakia in the ill-fated Munich pact. One of the few areas in which forward-thinking creativity and energetic optimism still prevailed in that pre-war era was the world of art and design, which was still showing the influence of the Art Deco movement that had taken root in the 1920s. Wristwatches, which had largely supplanted pocket watches as the go-to portable timekeepers for both civilian and military use, displayed this enduring design ethos while also often incorporating a useful array of functions geared toward the timing of the era’s popular sporting events, many of which involved racing - on horseback, in automobiles, and on skis. Tissot, founded in 1853 in the Swiss Jura, was one of the watchmakers that specialized in making these sport-timing instruments. One of the company’s earliest forays as an offic...
SJX Watches
Longines Introduces the Record Heritage Chronograph
Longines is best known amongst watch enthusiasts for the Heritage collection of vintage remakes. The brand’s other offerings don’t usually enjoy the same level of attention – though the recent Master 190th Anniversary is an exception – so Longines is now adding some vintage flavour into its other lines. The brand’s latest is a mashup of its COSC-certified Record line and the Heritage collection. Unsurprisingly retro with a black gilt dial, the Record Heritage is the first chronograph in the Record collection, up to now comprised entirely of time-and-date chronometers. Initial thoughts Longines’ vintage-inspired chronographs are mostly appealing but Record Heritage still stands out because the brand hasn’t done too many with a black gilt dial. Looking both sporty and elegant, such dials are a favourite amongst collectors when it comes to vintage chronographs, and the look works just as well on a modern-day remake. That also means the Record Heritage is the most eye-catching watch in the Record collection, which was quite mundane until now. And unlike some past remakes that were too chunky, the Record Heritage has modest dimensions that vintage watch enthusiasts will appreciate. The case has good proportions overall and is just 40 mm wide, thought it is slightly thick due to the movement inside. More importantly, the dial has no date window to detract from its vintage aesthetics. Admittedly, the Record Heritage, like all Longines remakes, is neither origin...
SJX Watches
In-Depth I: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003
The first complicated mechanical watch from the brand in its six decades years of history, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 is an impressive example of high horology. The Kodo is self-explanatory: it is equipped with a highly skeletonised and sensitively finished movement boasting a one-second remontoir and tourbillon, both mounted on the same axis. The Kodo is an interesting watch in all respects, tangible and intangible, making it worth a detailed examination – exactly the focus of this two-part series. In this first instalment, we explain the development and conception of the Kodo, as well as the decoration of its movement. In the second part that will be published subsequently, we detail how the movement works and analyse how it compares to the competition. A surprise Evolved from the T0 concept movement unveiled just two years ago, the Kodo is undoubtedly a milestone – and a major step upwards – for the Japanese watchmaker that’s historically been focused on simple but high-quality everyday watches. Like conventional Grand Seiko (GS) watches, the Kodo is all about high-quality timekeeping, but it is far from simple. An example of a typical Grand Seiko, which is strikingly different from the Kodo, yet not so different in terms of philosophy Well known for its quest for high precision – amongst its earliest timepieces were observatory-tested chronometers – GS has done much research and development in the cutting-edge timekeeping techn...
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Reine de Naples 8918 in Black Enamel
Inspired by a long-lost wristwatch saying to 1812 that might have been the first-ever wristwatch, the Reine de Naples is Breguet’s signature watch for ladies. Quirky in form but elegant, the model is available in numerous iterations, but the latest is unusually stark but no less graceful: the Reine de Naples 8918 with a glossy black enamel dial. Like the rest of the line, the new 8918 has its roots in the 19th century. Invented as jewellery that happened to tell the time, wristwatches of the period were fashionable accessories. One of the earliest known examples was an egg-shaped bracelet watch delivered in 1812 to Caroline Bonaparte, the younger sister of Napoleon and the Queen of Naples – reine de Naples in French. Initial thoughts Perhaps one of the most distinctive ladies’ watches on the market today, the Reine de Naples gets less attention than it deserves for a variety of reasons, including Breguet’s restrained marketing and the fact that brands like Cartier have more famous form watches. But the history and visual appeal of the Reine de Naples, as well as Breguet’s overall quality, makes it noteworthy. The 8918 in black enamel preserves the essence of the model, but it instantly stands out for its high-contrast, monochromatic palette. But it’s not merely a pretty face, for the execution is also appealing since it’s fired enamel in black, an uncommon colour for the material. Grand feu enamel dials are relatively uncommon in ladies’ watches, so B...
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces the Formula 1 X Mario Kart
With a near-unparalleled history in auto racing, TAG Heuer’s latest is a light-hearted take on its storied past. Inspired by the famous plumber now driving a go-kart, the Formula 1 X Mario Kart pair are both limited-edition chronographs, each opposing ends of the price spectrum. The base model is the Formula 1 X Mario Kart Chronograph with an “Easter egg” date display, while the top-of-the-line model is a variant of TAG Heuer’s tourbillon-chronograph with the COSC-certified Calibre Heuer 02T movement. Initial thoughts Pop culture adds levity to mechanical watchmaking and usually enhances the appeal, which is why the approach is a familiar one. Gerald Genta did it, and more recently RJ-Romain Jerome. TAG Heuer did it for the first time last year with the Connected × Super Mario that sold out swiftly, proving the appeal of the Italian plumber. But the Connected was a smartwatch, while the pair of new releases are both mechanical, so they have appeal for watch enthusiasts. The Formula 1 Chronograph is basic but affordable, and livened up by subtle-but-clever Mario elements, like a date display with symbols from the game instead of numerals. The Formula 1 chronograph The tourbillon, on the other hand, is essentially an amusingly whimsical iteration of TAG Heuer’s standard tourbillon-chronograph, while not costing that much more, making it a more compelling proposition than the somewhat plain regular-production model. Mario around the track Inspired by the Nintendo...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Nomos' New Club Is Just The Right Size (Live Pics, Pricing)
The German watchmaker gets sporty with a 37mm, bracelet-clad version of the Club Sport that is a surefire crowd-pleaser.
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1990s IWC Fliegerchronograph In Black Ceramic, A 1967 Rolex Zephyr, And A 1979 Benrus Type I Class A
Black dials galore this week in a tightly curated selection of vintage watches in the H Shop.
Deployant
New: Breguet Reine de Naples 8918
The Reine de Naples 8918 is one of the Maison’s iconic pieces.This novelty introduces two new white gold cased models - with enamel dial and MOP dial.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Simpler and more compact – the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37
We’ve sung many praises for the unique way that NOMOS integrates their Bauhaus-driven design language even when creating tough, water-resistant watches like the Ahoi. The same can be said for the new NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37, thus far only available in a date-equipped 42mm model. This new, downsized release houses the impressively thin neomatik … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Simpler and more compact – the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Phillips Stages Largest-Ever Watch Preview Exhibition in Singapore
With the fall auction season about to begin, Phillips will soon open its preview exhibition in Singapore, the largest of its kind to date. The exhibition is an expansive assembly of 210 watches encompassing highlights from the Geneva, Hong Kong, and New York auctions. Amongst the watches on show are a few of the most important watches that will be sold this year, a few of which will undoubtedly set records when they go under the hammer. Independent watchmaking is strong represented with watches like the George Daniels Spring Case Tourbillon, not one but two examples of the Philippe Dufour Simplicity, and of course several early or limited edition F.P. Journe watches. The Simplicity from the Geneva auction, a recent example in white gold made after the first 200 pieces And from the Hong Kong auction, a Simplicity also in white gold but from the original 200-piece edition The selection from establishment brands is equally varied and impressive. It includes Geneva’s Lange 1815 Chronograph “Hampton Court Edition”, a one-off made to benefit charity, and from the Hong Kong sale a crisp first-series Patek Philippe ref. 2499 in yellow gold. The engraved, hinged back of the 1815 Chronograph “Hampton Court” The first series ref. 2499 The preview exhibition in Singapore takes place at the St. Regis Singapore from October 13-15. It’s open to the public from 11:00 am to 7:00 pm daily. The St. Regis Singapore 29 Tanglin Rd Singapore 247911 This was brought to you in partner...
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Exhibitions in Singapore and Hong Kong
Admired for its quality of engineering and finishing, A. Lange & Söhne is bringing Glashütte to Asia with a pair of exhibitions in Singapore and Hong Kong. The events will showcase the brand’s watches – including important historical models no longer in the catalogue like the Zeitwerk Luminous – as well as the brand’s most important complications like the constant-force mechanism. The Mechanical Masters takes place from October 27-30 in Singapore (sign up here), while Devoted to the Highest Standards in Hong Kong happens from October 25-31 in Hong Kong (sign up here). At the Singapore event, Lange’s technical excellence will be personified with live demonstrations of watchmaking, engraving, and other crafts required to complete a watch. The four-day event in Singapore will be fronted by two gentlemen from Glashütte: Robert Hoffmann, the chief watchmaker for the Zeitwerk department, and Robert Arnold, an artisan-engraver who will demonstrate the art of engraving the balance cock. A familiar face for anyone who’s attended past Lange events, Robert Hoffmann Event information Both events are open to the public, however, registration is required to attend. Singapore – The Mechanical Masters – 10:00 am-9:00 pm, October 27-30 ION Orchard 2 Orchard Turn Singapore 238801 Register for the Singapore event Hong Kong – Devoted to the Highest Standards – 10:00 am-7:30 pm, October 25-31 Landmark Atrium 15 Queen’s Road Central Central Hong Kong Regist...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Haven Has Two New Watches And Thinks They're Cool - But If You Don't, That's Okay Too (Live Pics, Pricing)
Two watches, six dials, a bunch of bracelets, and a healthy dose of Midwest Nice.
Time+Tide
Lee Pace, the elven-king-turned-murder-suspect, needs watches
Galactic emperor, elven king or supervillain – Lee Pace refuses to be typecast, lending his chiselled chin to a variety of larger-than-life characters. Nominated for an Emmy for his work in Pushing Daisies and hailed for standout performances in Soldier’s Girl and Lincoln, his newest silver-screen foray sees him play a suspect in the slasher-murder-mystery ordeal that is Bodies Bodies … ContinuedThe post Lee Pace, the elven-king-turned-murder-suspect, needs watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera x Porsche 911 RS 2.7
To mark the 50th anniversary of the iconic Porsche 911 Carrera RS 2.7, TAG Heuer unveils the limited-edition Carrera x Porsche 911 RS 2.7, continuing its partnership with the luxury carmaker that started last year. The pair of chronographs take clear inspiration from the iconic sports car and the dangerous rally race that inspired Jack Heuer and Ferry Porsche. Initial thoughts The narrow bezel and angular lugs are unmistakably Heuer Carrera, but it’s not a remake. Instead of recreating a vintage model from its archives, Heuer conceptualised a new iteration of the classic for contemporary tastes, while still giving it obvious retro details like the “Carrera” engraving on the case side. Though the dial has more striking elements than the standard Carrera chronograph, the RS 2.7 feels cleaner and more purposeful. The coloured ring linking the hour markers is a nice touch, as is the countdown scale on the outer seconds scale. But because it is based on the standard Carrera chronograph, it has the same dimensions, which means it’s a fairly large watch and also thick at almost 14.5 mm high. While not oversized by modern standards, the case lacks the compact feel of the vintage original. Still, with the retro elements and classic design, the new Carrera chronograph feels like a winner. Since 1972 In his 2013 memoir The Times of My Life, Jack Heuer, great-grandson of Heuer’s founder Edouard, recalled how he was fascinated by Carrera Panamericana, the road rally across Me...
Revolution
Sincere Haute Horlogerie Welcomes Jacob & Co. Into the Fold
At a recent event to celebrate their partnership, Wei speaks with Jacob Arabo, founder of watchmaker to the stars Jacob & Co., and Ong Ban, CEO of Sincere Watch about the allure of the art and science of Jacob’s horological creations. Jacob & Co.’s timepieces are now exclusively available at Sincere Haute Horlogerie’s boutique at […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont “Lacquered Case”
Originally conceived as a pilot’s watch when it was created over a century ago – as one of the first-ever wristwatches in fact – the Santos is not even remotely sporty in the modern sense of the term. Instead the Santos is an elegant watch that is quintessential Cartier. Earlier this year, the Parisian jeweller recently gave its trademark square watch a bold makeover when it debuted the Santos-Dumont Large Model Lacquered Case. Featuring a bezel and case covered in lacquer, the new Santos-Dumont was unexpected and certainly one of the most intriguing iterations of the models to date, yet it easily feels like quintessential Cartier. The steel version with black lacquer Initial thoughts The lacquered Santos-Dumont is an achievement given that the original is so established, perhaps the bestselling square watch in history. Though the case is inspired by a vintage Santos with a lacquered bezel dating from the 1920s, the new Santos-Dumont still feels satisfyingly original. It obviously reimagines a familiar design, one so familiar it might have even become tired, but manages to translates it into something entirely different. A pair of vintage Santos watches from around 1910, both part of the Cartier Collection In fact, the lacquered Santos-Dumont stands apart not only from earlier Santos models but also the competition. While brightly-coloured dials are now common for dress watches, the same cannot be said of the case. As a result, this is one of the most interesti...
Quill & Pad
You Are There: Horology Forum 8 New York By Dubai Watch Week
GaryG represented Quill & Pad at the 2022 DWW Horology Forum in New York (and he took a few favorite watches with him). Here's his take on the weekend event with lots of photos.
Deployant
Independent thinking: Six amazing and cool watches from independent watch brands
When it comes to timepieces, there is nothing that beats the incredible world of independent watch brands. Here are some of the best examples.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Seiko Prospex Noosa and Eucalyptus are inspired by Australia’s natural beauty
Australia is often neglected by the world at large. We have to wait weeks if not months for some movies to come out, we pay extortionate amounts for cars, and livestream events are almost always going to be at an unreasonable time. To make up for this, we’re blessed with gorgeous landscapes, flora and fauna, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Seiko Prospex Noosa and Eucalyptus are inspired by Australia’s natural beauty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Dirty Dozen: History’s Most Legendary Field Watches
When it comes to collectible vintage military watches, there are the famed “Dirty Dozen” and then there is everything else. Twelve field watches from twelve different Swiss watchmakers, all made within the last two years of World War II and issued to British servicemen, the Dirty Dozen watches represent a rare confluence between horological and military history, while also claiming a coveted spot in the annals of war memorabilia. What brands and watches make up the Dirty Dozen, what is their story, and why are they so legendary today? Read on. Wristwatches came into general usage for men during World War I. While pocket watches were still in vogue for social situations, they proved impractical for troops on the battlefield, who needed the use of both hands in combat situations, such as for loading one’s rifle while simultaneously checking his watch to determine the distance of incoming artillery fire. Watchmakers at the time responded to the demands of warfare in a rather makeshift way at first, re-engineering pocket watch cases with soldered strips of wire to connect them to straps of leather or canvas for wrist wear. While these “trench watches” were effective at the time, advances in military equipment, technology, and strategies in subsequent years necessitated a more purposeful approach to watchmaking as a Second World War erupted in Europe, barely two decades after the end of the so-called War to End all Wars. According to some historical accounts, it was ...
Deployant
Review: the new Urwerk UR-120 aka Spock
Hands-on review of the new Urwerk UR-110 Spock with insider notes direct from Felix Baumgartner, featuring our own live photographs and release pics.
Deployant
New: Seiko 5 Sports 55th Anniversary Ultraseven Limited Edition
Seiko 5 celebrates a new collaboration with Ultraseven, marking the 55th Anniversary of its broadcast of the series which later led to the Ultraman series.
SJX Watches
Exhibition: Urwerk ‘Every Moment Counts’ in Singapore
Coinciding with the launch of the UR-120 with its novel, split-cube display, Urwerk is documenting its journey from the very beginning with an exhibition in Singapore that’s part of the brand’s 25th anniversary celebration. Organised in collaboration with its Asian retailer The Hour Glass, Every Moment Counts offers a look at the brand’s history through its historical products as well as intriguing archival photographs, all straight out of the brand’s museum. Other items on show include sketches, trophies, and memorabilia that offer a full picture of the brand and its two founders, Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei. At bottom right is a sketch of one of the brand’s foundational models, the UR-101 Reflecting the brand’s philosophy and house style, the exhibition has a futuristic aesthetic, such as the neon green and black display for the historical timepieces that brings to mind the luminous time display found on many of the brand’s watches. But the exhibition is also about nostalgia and includes a “Watchmaker’s Studio” with soft lighting that showcases photos from the founders’ childhood, which played a major role in shaping their avant-garde approach to watchmaking. The exhibition includes landmark watches like the UR-103 and UR-201 For technically-minded enthusiasts, the “Immersive Room” displays the exploded movement of the UR-111C on the wall, revealing in detail the workings of the intriguing cylindrical drum display. The UR-111C Every Mom...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Grand Seiko make a compelling case for a one-watch collection with their new quartz GMTs
You may have your own opinion about quartz watches, but Grand Seiko has certainly elevated the movement technology to a whole different level. And their new 9F-powered GMT models make a compelling case for half of a two-watch collection, or even a one-watch collection, depending on your needs. A quartz GMT certainly fits the bill … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Grand Seiko make a compelling case for a one-watch collection with their new quartz GMTs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1959 Rolex Oyster Perpetual In 14k Yellow Gold, A 1970s Dodane Type 21 Military Flyback Chronograph, And A 1970s Gallet By Racine Multichron
Led by one of the most interesting Rolex OPs we have ever come across, this week's vintage lineup has something for everyone.
Revolution
A Retrospective Exhibition on Urwerk’s 25-year History Is Not to Be Missed!
Independent Watchmaking Brand Executive, Maximilian Rolf from The Hour Glass, takes Jeremiah on a quick tour of the 25th Anniversary exhibition that tells the story of Urwerk, the avant-garde watchmaking tour-de-force founded in 1997 by Master Watchmaker, Felix Baumgartner and Designer, Martin Frei. This is a retrospective on one of the pioneers of independent watchmaking […]
Hodinkee
A Week On The Wrist: The Credor Eichi II Is The Grandest Grand Seiko
If you thought Grand Seiko was obsessed with the details, well, you weren't wrong. But there's another level. An even higher level. Behold the detail-iest Grand Seiko of them all, the Credor.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: TAG Heuer rev up to pay tribute to the first Porsche Carrera
TAG Heuer and Porsche have been on a high-octane roll since their partnership began last year, releasing collaborative models left, right and centre. The brand new TAG Heuer 911 Carrera R.S. 2.7 goes the only direction not yet explored – up. Celebrating the first 911 model to bear the iconic Carrera name, TAG Heuer created … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: TAG Heuer rev up to pay tribute to the first Porsche Carrera appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Tourbillon “Onyx”
Despite a rocky reception when Audemars Piguet debuted the line in 2019, the Code 11.59 collection is gaining traction, especially after several facelifts that bestowed smoked dials, two-tone cases, as well as open-worked movements on the line. Continuing the evolution – and improvement – is the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon that combines white gold and black ceramic in a novel two-tone case. More striking is the unexpected simplicity of the dial, which is a polished expanse of onyx stone, resulting in the most striking version of the model to date. Initial thoughts Since the launch of the collection, most Code 11.59 model have been redesigned in a manner that is somewhat formulaic, though the results have been attractive. The makeovers usually involved brighter dial colours or new materials, like the recent Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon that got an aventurine glass dial. In comparison, the latest redesign is a surprise that proves less is more. Stark and minimalist yet far from plain, the onyx dial easily sets the watch apart from its peers in the collection. It does that by streamlining the dial, even removing the Arabic numerals that are a signature element of the Code 11.59. Aside from the onyx dial, I also like the smart application of coloured accents. Though it is mainly in silver and black, it has just the right amount of rose gold details in just the right places to give it warmth and a bit of a vintage feel. And the black is also smartly utilised...