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Revolution
Earlier in the year at Watches & Wonders 2022, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, President of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud gave Wei a preview of the first two watches that make up the third collection to be added to the brand’s product family, the FB 3. While less complicated than the original FB 1 that relaunched the brand in […]
Time+Tide
Bulova’s Marine Star line has provided the brand’s answer to a fashionable, sporty watch for decades. They’re not super-tough, military-style divers. But nor are they the sort of 50-metre water-resistant watches that many of us avoid. Instead their offerings sit comfortably in the middle of that spectrum, appealing to those of us that want a … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulova Marine Star Series C divers meld style with rugged capability appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
During Geneva Watch Days 2022, Wei caught up with Rémi Maillat, founder of Krayon, to take a first look at the brand new métiers d’art version of the Anywhere, a 15-piece limited edition cased in platinum. The Anywhere Métiers d’Art Azur features a dial with hand-painted miniature cells in a blue gradient from top to […]
SJX Watches
Twenty-twenty two has been all about the Pilot’s Watch for IWC, but with a particular focus on materials, including coloured ceramics and titanium. All that materials tech, watchmaking, and military provenance is now on show in Singapore with Monochromatic Top Gun. Taking place from October 22-30, 2022, the exhibition showcases the brand’s aviator’s watches – including rarely-seen watches made for actual military pilots – along with its watchmaking knowhow in a series of classes and talks. The centrepiece of the exhibition is the all-ceramic line of Pilot’s Watches named after the US Navy’s fight jet academy, Top Gun. Historically available only in black, the Top Gun collection has more recently become a platform for IWC to roll out a range of coloured ceramics. Naturally the show includes the year’s new launches, namely the Top Gun chronographs in forest green or white ceramic. Earlier models such as the Miramar with its sand-coloured ceramic case are also on show, along with the quintessential all-black version. Notably, the exhibition also includes 15 military-issue watches, each bearing a unit insignia on the dial, in perhaps its most intriguing section. Rarely seen since they are only available to members of the individual air force and navy units, such watches reflect the fact that the Schaffhausen watchmaker is the sole official supplier of watches to the US Navy and Marine Corps. As a result, IWC has created watches for some 350 squadrons, includin...
Hodinkee
"I don't have a ton of heat,“ says Jeremy Kirkland of Blamo. “But I have things that are special to me – and I've found my own niche in the watch world."
Time+Tide
Having distributed watches for Yema and Heuer in the 1970s alongside producing their own spectacular chronographs, it’s surprising that Le Jour have so far focused on other styles such as their SeaColt and Coral divers. Now, the time has come for them to embrace their true heritage and release the Le Jour Le Mans - … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Le Jour Le Mans Chronograph collection is hotwired with 1960s racing vibes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Swiss brand Horage has released Lensman 1, a beautiful photography-inspired tourbillon watch for under CHF 10K.The post No negatives: The Horage Lensman 1 is a Swiss-made tourbillon for under 10K inspired by photography appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The new Wayne Enterprises x Uncrate Collab BR 03-92 is designed as if straight from the mind of the Caped Crusader.
Hodinkee
Sure, the City by the Bay is home to a lot of Apple Watches. But techies also love their automatics.
Deployant
The crazy folks at Underd0g Studios have releases the Pumpkin - a design based on the sketch of a talented 11 year old girl.
Time+Tide
Chopard has long produced complicated and/or highly decorated pieces in their L.U.C collection as well as sport-oriented watches like the Mille Miglia, but a space was open for a model to bridge the gap between the two. This is where the Chopard Alpine Eagle steps in. Following in the footsteps of the 1980s St. Moritz, … ContinuedThe post The Chopard Alpine Eagle Chrono is more eye-catching than ever on an integrated rubber strap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Widely anticipated due to inadvertent appearances on social media, the Cartier Pebble has now been officially announced, continuing the jeweller’s strong of vintage reissues like the Tank Cintree 150th Anniversary of 2020. Formally known as the Pebble-Shaped Watch, the reissue is a limited edition of 150 pieces to mark 50 years since the original, which was conceived by Cartier London a few years after the Crash. While not as famous as the Dali-esque sibling, the Pebble is a simple yet distinctive design in the best tradition of Cartier – a square dial rotated 45 degrees from the horizontal within a perfectly round case. Initial thoughts Although not especially well known before last year’s record auction result for a vintage example, the Pebble is an easily recognisable design. At 36 mm it’s modest in size by modern standards, but stands out with its clean lines and peculiar but pleasing shape. The remake smartly sticks closely to the original, so much so that they will be almost identical at a distance. For fans of Cartier’s classic and quirky style, the Pebble reissue is appealing – albeit at a steep price. The Pebble is twice as expensive as the Santos-Dumont lacquered case in gold that has the same movement, and 50% pricier than the Tank Cintree 150th that has an arguably finer, thinner calibre. The Pebble is a winner in terms of execution but the price is difficult to stomach. Sometimes known as the “baseball” The Pebble belongs to the group of oddl...
SJX Watches
Having delved into the origins, concept, and design of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003, we now turn to the granularity of its technical qualities. The Kodo is first and foremost a chronometer in the vein of the watches that lay behind the founding of Grand Seiko (GS). A brand focused on precision timekeeping since its establishment in 1960, the opening act of GS in its first decade was competing in observatory chronometer trials at Neuchatel and Geneva – and winning, much to the horror of the Swiss. Several decades later the brand is still pursuing perfect accuracy in both mechanical, quartz, and hybrid formats, most notably with the novel Spring Drive. The Kodo powered by the cal. 9ST1 is the latest, and arguably greatest, endeavour in chronometric precision from GS. But it is like no GS that has come before it. Rather than rely on modern technology and materials, the Kodo instead revisits traditional mechanical solutions, namely as the constant-force mechanism and tourbillon. Combining the two in a wristwatch mark a milestone for GS, or any Japanese watchmaker for that matter. To understand the mechanical systems within the Kodo, we must first understand the fundamental challenges in precision timekeeping. The factors that influence precision fall into two categories, the first related to the barrel or energy supply, and the second, gravity’s effect on the balance or oscillator. Energy challenges The barrel is the source of energy in a conve...
SJX Watches
The combination of split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar has been a mainstay in Patek Philippe’s catalogue ever since the ref. 5004, but the brand’s latest take on the concept is unorthodox. The Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5373P-001 is described by Patek Philippe as designed for “left handers” and has its crown and pushers on the left side of the case. Essentially an inverted version of the ref. 5372P that’s now discontinued, the ref. 5373P is the first “destro” timepiece among the brand’s regular production offerings, but the movement is classic Patek Philippe. Like the earlier versions of the model, the ref. 5373P is powered by the CHR 27-525 PS Q, a gorgeous, refined, and extremely slim movement that’s amongst the thinnest split-seconds chronographs ever made. Initial thoughts The ref. 5373P is paradoxical. It’s not majorly different from its predecessor, in fact it’s just a rotated case and new dial, but the watch looks and feels entirely different from the ref. 5372P. The left-handed case sets it apart, as does the high-contrast livery. The black-and-red colour scheme seems mismatched to the elegant form of the watch – the case and movement are both impressively slim – but I can imagine this will have a strong appeal for someone seeking something different yet fundamentally classic Patek Philippe high horology. This clearly stands out in the catalogue, offering an alternative that is recognisably di...
Time+Tide
The IWC Portugieser collection is rooted in both class and utility. It was an elegant solution, originally presented in 1939, due to demand for a marine-deck chronometer experience that could be translated into a wristwatch. It was oversized for its time – a rather sporty characteristic – but still every bit as elegant as its … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portugeiser Chronograph IW371620 is a near-perfect warm weather watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Laurent Ferrier releases a new variant of its Grand Sport Tourbillon in a red gold case and bracelet with a gradient chocolate dial.
Time+Tide
When I learned that Grand Seiko had announced the SBGJ269 with a pink dial as an Australian limited edition, it’s fair to say I lost my mind.The post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGJ269 ‘Pink Flannel’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Our watch-related movie of the week showcases an iconic '90s chrono in a core 2000s thriller.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Tissot Telemeter 1938, which joined the Swiss brand's vintage-influenced Heritage collection in summer 2022, has garnered enthusiasts' attention with its charmingly retro design, optimized chronograph movement, and enticing price-to-value ratio. We had a chance to go hands-on with both versions of the Tissot Telemeter 1938; read on for the results from our in-depth review. Overview and History By just about any historical standard, 1938 was generally a pretty dark year, marked by the lingering economic woes of the Great Depression, the violence of Kristallnacht, and the slow march to war in Europe, with Germany annexing Austria and partitioning Czechoslovakia in the ill-fated Munich pact. One of the few areas in which forward-thinking creativity and energetic optimism still prevailed in that pre-war era was the world of art and design, which was still showing the influence of the Art Deco movement that had taken root in the 1920s. Wristwatches, which had largely supplanted pocket watches as the go-to portable timekeepers for both civilian and military use, displayed this enduring design ethos while also often incorporating a useful array of functions geared toward the timing of the era’s popular sporting events, many of which involved racing - on horseback, in automobiles, and on skis. Tissot, founded in 1853 in the Swiss Jura, was one of the watchmakers that specialized in making these sport-timing instruments. One of the company’s earliest forays as an offic...
SJX Watches
Longines is best known amongst watch enthusiasts for the Heritage collection of vintage remakes. The brand’s other offerings don’t usually enjoy the same level of attention – though the recent Master 190th Anniversary is an exception – so Longines is now adding some vintage flavour into its other lines. The brand’s latest is a mashup of its COSC-certified Record line and the Heritage collection. Unsurprisingly retro with a black gilt dial, the Record Heritage is the first chronograph in the Record collection, up to now comprised entirely of time-and-date chronometers. Initial thoughts Longines’ vintage-inspired chronographs are mostly appealing but Record Heritage still stands out because the brand hasn’t done too many with a black gilt dial. Looking both sporty and elegant, such dials are a favourite amongst collectors when it comes to vintage chronographs, and the look works just as well on a modern-day remake. That also means the Record Heritage is the most eye-catching watch in the Record collection, which was quite mundane until now. And unlike some past remakes that were too chunky, the Record Heritage has modest dimensions that vintage watch enthusiasts will appreciate. The case has good proportions overall and is just 40 mm wide, thought it is slightly thick due to the movement inside. More importantly, the dial has no date window to detract from its vintage aesthetics. Admittedly, the Record Heritage, like all Longines remakes, is neither origin...
SJX Watches
The first complicated mechanical watch from the brand in its six decades years of history, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 is an impressive example of high horology. The Kodo is self-explanatory: it is equipped with a highly skeletonised and sensitively finished movement boasting a one-second remontoir and tourbillon, both mounted on the same axis. The Kodo is an interesting watch in all respects, tangible and intangible, making it worth a detailed examination – exactly the focus of this two-part series. In this first instalment, we explain the development and conception of the Kodo, as well as the decoration of its movement. In the second part that will be published subsequently, we detail how the movement works and analyse how it compares to the competition. A surprise Evolved from the T0 concept movement unveiled just two years ago, the Kodo is undoubtedly a milestone – and a major step upwards – for the Japanese watchmaker that’s historically been focused on simple but high-quality everyday watches. Like conventional Grand Seiko (GS) watches, the Kodo is all about high-quality timekeeping, but it is far from simple. An example of a typical Grand Seiko, which is strikingly different from the Kodo, yet not so different in terms of philosophy Well known for its quest for high precision – amongst its earliest timepieces were observatory-tested chronometers – GS has done much research and development in the cutting-edge timekeeping techn...
SJX Watches
Inspired by a long-lost wristwatch saying to 1812 that might have been the first-ever wristwatch, the Reine de Naples is Breguet’s signature watch for ladies. Quirky in form but elegant, the model is available in numerous iterations, but the latest is unusually stark but no less graceful: the Reine de Naples 8918 with a glossy black enamel dial. Like the rest of the line, the new 8918 has its roots in the 19th century. Invented as jewellery that happened to tell the time, wristwatches of the period were fashionable accessories. One of the earliest known examples was an egg-shaped bracelet watch delivered in 1812 to Caroline Bonaparte, the younger sister of Napoleon and the Queen of Naples – reine de Naples in French. Initial thoughts Perhaps one of the most distinctive ladies’ watches on the market today, the Reine de Naples gets less attention than it deserves for a variety of reasons, including Breguet’s restrained marketing and the fact that brands like Cartier have more famous form watches. But the history and visual appeal of the Reine de Naples, as well as Breguet’s overall quality, makes it noteworthy. The 8918 in black enamel preserves the essence of the model, but it instantly stands out for its high-contrast, monochromatic palette. But it’s not merely a pretty face, for the execution is also appealing since it’s fired enamel in black, an uncommon colour for the material. Grand feu enamel dials are relatively uncommon in ladies’ watches, so B...
SJX Watches
With a near-unparalleled history in auto racing, TAG Heuer’s latest is a light-hearted take on its storied past. Inspired by the famous plumber now driving a go-kart, the Formula 1 X Mario Kart pair are both limited-edition chronographs, each opposing ends of the price spectrum. The base model is the Formula 1 X Mario Kart Chronograph with an “Easter egg” date display, while the top-of-the-line model is a variant of TAG Heuer’s tourbillon-chronograph with the COSC-certified Calibre Heuer 02T movement. Initial thoughts Pop culture adds levity to mechanical watchmaking and usually enhances the appeal, which is why the approach is a familiar one. Gerald Genta did it, and more recently RJ-Romain Jerome. TAG Heuer did it for the first time last year with the Connected × Super Mario that sold out swiftly, proving the appeal of the Italian plumber. But the Connected was a smartwatch, while the pair of new releases are both mechanical, so they have appeal for watch enthusiasts. The Formula 1 Chronograph is basic but affordable, and livened up by subtle-but-clever Mario elements, like a date display with symbols from the game instead of numerals. The Formula 1 chronograph The tourbillon, on the other hand, is essentially an amusingly whimsical iteration of TAG Heuer’s standard tourbillon-chronograph, while not costing that much more, making it a more compelling proposition than the somewhat plain regular-production model. Mario around the track Inspired by the Nintendo...
Hodinkee
The German watchmaker gets sporty with a 37mm, bracelet-clad version of the Club Sport that is a surefire crowd-pleaser.
Hodinkee
Black dials galore this week in a tightly curated selection of vintage watches in the H Shop.
Deployant
The Reine de Naples 8918 is one of the Maison’s iconic pieces.This novelty introduces two new white gold cased models - with enamel dial and MOP dial.
Time+Tide
We’ve sung many praises for the unique way that NOMOS integrates their Bauhaus-driven design language even when creating tough, water-resistant watches like the Ahoi. The same can be said for the new NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37, thus far only available in a date-equipped 42mm model. This new, downsized release houses the impressively thin neomatik … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Simpler and more compact – the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
With the fall auction season about to begin, Phillips will soon open its preview exhibition in Singapore, the largest of its kind to date. The exhibition is an expansive assembly of 210 watches encompassing highlights from the Geneva, Hong Kong, and New York auctions. Amongst the watches on show are a few of the most important watches that will be sold this year, a few of which will undoubtedly set records when they go under the hammer. Independent watchmaking is strong represented with watches like the George Daniels Spring Case Tourbillon, not one but two examples of the Philippe Dufour Simplicity, and of course several early or limited edition F.P. Journe watches. The Simplicity from the Geneva auction, a recent example in white gold made after the first 200 pieces And from the Hong Kong auction, a Simplicity also in white gold but from the original 200-piece edition The selection from establishment brands is equally varied and impressive. It includes Geneva’s Lange 1815 Chronograph “Hampton Court Edition”, a one-off made to benefit charity, and from the Hong Kong sale a crisp first-series Patek Philippe ref. 2499 in yellow gold. The engraved, hinged back of the 1815 Chronograph “Hampton Court” The first series ref. 2499 The preview exhibition in Singapore takes place at the St. Regis Singapore from October 13-15. It’s open to the public from 11:00 am to 7:00 pm daily. The St. Regis Singapore 29 Tanglin Rd Singapore 247911 This was brought to you in partner...
SJX Watches
Admired for its quality of engineering and finishing, A. Lange & Söhne is bringing Glashütte to Asia with a pair of exhibitions in Singapore and Hong Kong. The events will showcase the brand’s watches – including important historical models no longer in the catalogue like the Zeitwerk Luminous – as well as the brand’s most important complications like the constant-force mechanism. The Mechanical Masters takes place from October 27-30 in Singapore (sign up here), while Devoted to the Highest Standards in Hong Kong happens from October 25-31 in Hong Kong (sign up here). At the Singapore event, Lange’s technical excellence will be personified with live demonstrations of watchmaking, engraving, and other crafts required to complete a watch. The four-day event in Singapore will be fronted by two gentlemen from Glashütte: Robert Hoffmann, the chief watchmaker for the Zeitwerk department, and Robert Arnold, an artisan-engraver who will demonstrate the art of engraving the balance cock. A familiar face for anyone who’s attended past Lange events, Robert Hoffmann Event information Both events are open to the public, however, registration is required to attend. Singapore – The Mechanical Masters – 10:00 am-9:00 pm, October 27-30 ION Orchard 2 Orchard Turn Singapore 238801 Register for the Singapore event Hong Kong – Devoted to the Highest Standards – 10:00 am-7:30 pm, October 25-31 Landmark Atrium 15 Queen’s Road Central Central Hong Kong Regist...
Hodinkee
Two watches, six dials, a bunch of bracelets, and a healthy dose of Midwest Nice.
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