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Deployant
The new Grand Seiko SLGW002 and SLGW003 have made a remarkable entrance at watches and wonders 2024, with its new manual winding movement. The SLGW002, a limited edition in 18k rose gold, is a boutique only 80 piece edition. The SLGW003, crafted from Brilliant Hard Titanium, offers a more accessible yet equally sophisticated option.
Monochrome
In the previous year, Grand Seiko introduced the Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC253, showcasing a bold case design and distinctive dial texture, thus enhancing the brand’s Sport collection with the permanent addition. This followed the anticipation stirred by limited edition models SBGC230 and SGBC231 in 2019, along with the red gold cased SGBC238, launched in […]
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko has introduced the Evolution 9 “Birch Bark” SLGW002 and SLGW003, in rose gold and “brilliant hard titanium” respectively. Named after the dial pattern, the “Birch Bark” is powered by a new manually-wound, high-beat caliber that features the brand’s proprietary dual-impulse escapement. The only completely new model introduced by Grand Seiko at Watches & Wonder this year, the new references introduce a new, notably slimmer aesthetic to the brand’s Evolution 9 collection. Initial thoughts Grand Seiko has earned a devoted following in recent years, but collectors have been asking for slimmer options for some time; this release proves the brand is listening. While there’s nothing revolutionary about it, the watch has been nipped and tucked in all the right areas, getting the case down to 38.6 mm in diameter and just under 10 mm in thickness. Compared to the most similar existing watch in the catalog, the Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch” launched two years ago, the new Evolution 9 feature a new movement, a thinner case, slimmer dial markers, and a horizontal interpretation of the brand’s signature white birch-inspired dial texture. The slimmer profile is made possible thanks to the new 9SA4 movement, which is essentially a 9SA5 without automatic winding. This makes it the first manually wound caliber from Grand Seiko’s latest generation of mechanical movements, and also the first to be available without a date function. Perhaps the onl...
Monochrome
Montblanc introduced its white star logo in 1913, an emblem which has graced the caps of its fountain pens and, later, the crowns of its watches. While the logo is universally recognised, some folk might not know that it represents a stylised bird’s eye view of the snow-capped peak of Mont Blanc and its six […]
Fratello
At this year’s Watches and Wonders, we get to see new additions to Vacheron Constantin’s popular Overseas collection. The integrated-bracelet sports model receives additions in pink gold with green dials as well as a full-titanium tourbillon model with a blue dial. The new green dials come in four Overseas variants. There is a 41mm Self-Winding […] Visit Introducing: Four Vacheron Constantin Overseas Variants With Green Dials And A Titanium Overseas Tourbillon to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Some things are worth the wait. Though the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT will likely get the most press from the brand’s releases at this year’s Watches & Wonders event, the release of a stripped-down, monochromatic, black and silver, 41mm Black Bay is no less significant. Why? Well, it’s the most obvious colorway for a dive watch, which means it’s bound to be a classic. First launched in 2012, the 41mm Black Bay (just called “Black Bay”) is the watch that reestablished Tudor after some time in horological purgatory. Perfectly timed to ride the wave of vintage-inspired aesthetics that dominated for the decade hence, it showed that Tudor unliked their sister brand, Rolex, was willing to be a bit trendier and fun. Originally powered by ETA movements, it was the first to receive Tudor’s in-house caliber in 2016 and then underwent a third iteration in 2023 when it received the upgraded Master Chronometer certification (and technically a new caliber), as well as a slight redesign in the form of an updated handset, crown, and profile. With the introduction of the Black Bay 58, GMT, and 54 models, new versions of the Black Bay slowed down. Several different colors have been available, from the original burgundy bezel to a steel bezel with date to two-tone models. Yet, despite its tenure, the most obvious model never existed. The model most dive watches come in as a given: simple black-black bezel, black dial, white lume, white or silver markers. No gilt, no red, no fuss....
Monochrome
In 1960, a team of Seiko engineers produced a watch that encapsulated precision, durability, refined execution and beauty. Launched in a 35mm yellow gold case with a slim, chronometer-rated movement, the specifications of the new watch were so well calibrated that it was christened the Grand Seiko. Celebrating Grand Seiko’s official independence from Seiko in […]
Fratello
Only a few weeks have passed since Czapek introduced the Antarctique Mount Erebus Deep Blue models. Both of them presented a familiar aesthetic in precious metals. I love the Antarctique, and a yellow gold version made me fall in love with the watch all over again. For this year’s Watches and Wonders, the brand releases […] Visit Introducing: The Czapek Antarctique Passage De Drake Afterglow And Antarctique Green Meteor to read the full article.
Fratello
At Watches and Wonders last year, TAG Heuer presented new Carrera models using a 39mm Glassbox case design. Many celebrated these watches due to their clean, classic looks and moderate size. Since then, more variants have entered the lineup, including a full-gold model and the return of the cult-classic Skipper. Now we have two new […] Visit Introducing: The New TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Models to read the full article.
SJX Watches
In a surprising move, Tudor is launching the Black Bay 58 18K (ref. 79018V-006) at Watches & Wonders 2024. Essentially the same watch as the 2021 model, the new 58 18K now sports a matching yellow-gold bracelet, whereas it was formerly only offered on a leather or fabric strap. The dial and the bezel remain in the same green colourway, with gilt markings that match the hue of the yellow-gold case and bracelet. The 39 mm case is complemented by an oversized crown embossed with the Tudor rose logo, while widely cut bevels on the lugs provide a pleasing contrast to the brushed finish of the case. Initial thoughts While the Black Bay 58 18K won’t have as much of a wide appeal as the Black Bay 58 GMT – simply as a matter of affordability – it is a perfect update for a model that looked incomplete on a strap. And the bracelet itself is noteworthy. I like fact that it does away with the fake rivets found on the steel models. The cleaner look feels more modern and functional. At US$32,100, the Black Bay 58 18K is far beyond the usual price range of Tudor, but arguably delivers a competitive value proposition as far as an all-gold diver’s watch goes. Granted, the price is not far off from the Rolex Submariner in gold, which retails for US$39,000, but relative to the competition (such as Omega and Breitling), it is perhaps the most competitive in its segment. All gold and no rivets The Black Bay 58 18K notably features a solid gold bracelet equipped with a “T-fit” clasp ...
Hodinkee
Four pieces get the green sunray treatment all wrapped up in 18K Pink Gold.
Hodinkee
Utilizing rose gold, diamonds, and a mother-of-pearl dial or two, each piece is a decidedly feminine take on sporty luxury.
Monochrome
Last year, Tudor unveiled a deeply refreshed version of its original Black Bay – understand the 41mm edition – featuring multiple important changes; Master Chronometer movement, updated and slimmer case, new bracelet options, new clasp, new crown and new bezel… Almost an entirely new watch. First presented in the classic burgundy and gold colour scheme, […]
Fratello
As Watches And Wonders 2024 kicks off, Tudor introduces the latest incarnation of the upgraded Black Bay model. Following in the METAS-certified footsteps of last year’s introduction, in 2024, the red and gold accents are stripped away in favor of a monochromatic look. And it turns out that when you take away the signature livery […] Visit The New Tudor Black Bay METAS Makes A Monochromatic Debut to read the full article.
Fratello
Last year, Rolex released a string of hits. Among the biggest were the yellow gold and Rolesor versions of the GMT-Master II with a black and gray bezel. The combination of colors and the Jubilee bracelets made for a duo of GMT-Master IIs that quickly won people over. But this year, the duo has become […] Visit Rolex Introduces The GMT-Master II Black And Gray In Stainless Steel to read the full article.
Monochrome
Independent watchmaker Czapek whets our appetite ahead of Watches & Wonders 2024, pre-releasing the handsome Antarctique Mount Erebus, the first gold version of its successful luxury sports watch. But there is more coming our way from the creative brand: two cool new versions of the Antarctique and, more importantly, a new collection, Promenade. The New […]
Monochrome
This new creation by H. Moser & Cie. is the brand’s second venture into the skeleton watch category, following the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton introduced in 2022. Notably, a tourbillon watch joined the Streamliner collection the same year, presented in full red gold attire with a Vantablack-coated dial. In 2024, a Tourbillon Skeleton is added […]
Hodinkee
We got white in March and now black in April as a new non-limited Snoopy-themed Mission To Moonphase is set to launch.
Fratello
If you looked closely at the teaser on February 19th, you saw Snoopy holding a cake with two candles - a white one and a black one. A few of you guessed it right in the comments of the introduction of the white MoonSwatch Snoopy. The black edition was still a surprise to others until […] Visit Another MoonSwatch Mission To The Moonphase – Snoopy Goes New Moon to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Well, here we go again. Just a few weeks after the launch of the Swatch x Omega Mission to Moonphase, which saw Snoopy appearing on a pure white MoonSwatch, we’ve got an entirely new creation featuring our beagle friend. By entirely new of course what I really mean is: another color. The Mission to Moonphase New Moon is an all black rendering of the Mission to Moonphase concept. Swatch has been teasing this release over the past several days on social media, so it’s not exactly a surprise, unless you think about the very existence of these watches in the first place, and the conversation that develops around them whenever a new one drops, which is, on its face, surprising. The new Mission to Moonphase New Moon arrives just before April’s new moon, which is also the date of the total solar eclipse that will be visible to millions of Americans in the eastern part of the country (and many more will see a partial eclipse, which is still quite a thing). One wonders why Omega and Swatch didn’t come up with an eclipse themed watch for the occasion. There are all kinds of ways to play with the idea of blotting out the sun. A Bioceramic rendition of the sun’s corona could have been a pretty cool thing. I shouldn’t say “could have been,” of course. It could well be in the works. Quantum physics has proven that if enough time passes, every possible rendition of the MoonSwatch will eventually come to fruition. Back to the Mission to Moonphase at hand. The New Moon re...
Hodinkee
G-Shock is releasing a black, pink, and white DW6900 in a 2000s-themed homage to a watch that helped define mid-aughts pop culture.
Fratello
It’s been almost a year since Tudor released the Black Bay GMT with the opaline white dial. Strangely enough, we never did a hands-on review of the watch. While it essentially was a line extension of the Black Bay GMT, the dial brings a certain praiseworthy attraction. The brand’s second GMT is the Black Bay […] Visit Going Hands-On With The Tudor Black Bay GMT Opaline And The Tudor Black Bay Pro to read the full article.
SJX Watches
To celebrate its 140th anniversary, Breitling is launching the Navitimer Automatic GMT 41. Zooming into the watch, the signature slide-rule bezel is still present, although this Navitimer omits the chronograph and replaces it with a GMT function. Featuring a 41 mm case in either stainless steel or 18k rose gold, it retains the classic Navitimer style, albeit with a cleaner look without the chronograph sub-dials. Initial Thoughts After revamping the Navitimer in 2022, Breitling gave its trademark aviator’s chronograph more vintage-inspired aesthetics, including more compact cases. Given that the Navitimer is synonymous with the chronograph, it’s not unreasonable to criticise the GMT has having lost some of the spirit of the original. However, I dig the cleaner aesthetics without the pushers and the triple registers. And this is also more affordable. Most Navitimer chronographs are equipped with the in-house B01 movement, resulting in an hefty entry price of US$9,600. The Navitimer Automatic GMT 41 is equipped with an ETA calibre, resulting in a slightly more affordable price that starts at US$6,200 on a stainless steel bracelet. Many other brands in this price bracket now utilise in-house or heavily improved movements, which puts this at a disadvantage in terms of mechanics. That puts it in the middle of the pack for accessible GMT watches: not as affordable as a Longines or the same value proposition as a Tudor, but it has the advantage of the classic Navitimer look th...
SJX Watches
Biver concludes the 50-piece run of its flagship Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon with a striking pair featuring its first guilloche dials. Instead of the conventional engine turning on metal, the dials are either black obsidian or white mother-of-pearl, both finished with three-dimensional guilloche. Inspired by the links of the brand’s bracelet, the guilloche forms a terraced geometric patterns in dial centre that’s elegantly accentuated by baguette-cut diamond indexes. Initial thoughts Despite being neither a watchmaker, engineer, nor constructor, Jean-Claude Biver is an individual who personifies the Swiss watch industry – and he isn’t even Swiss. In his career so far, he revived two brands, Blancpain and then Hublot, and in between the two turbocharged Omega, in the process becoming one of the most influential and respected personalities in watchmaking. So when Mr Biver announced that he and his son Pierre would be starting their own brand, everyone was paying attention. The brand’s inaugural watch, the Carillon Tourbillon, is a grand complication executed to an impressive degree of quality. The design, however, was debatable. Consequently the brand got off to a tough start, particularly on social media where the criticism of its design was free flowing. With a one-off created for charity auction Only Watch, Biver eliminated the dial, resulting in a striking, appealing watch. Here the brand has retained the dial, but with new materials and decoration. The...
Fratello
Not to let its recent Aerospace B70 Orbiter hog the spotlight, Breitling is also unveiling a plethora of new Navitimers. Curiously, only one of these Navis is a chronograph, and it’s in the form of the limited-edition self-winding 18K red gold Cosmonaute. Considering there are nine other watches (double that with strap variants) without a […] Visit Breitling Unleashes A Slew Of New Navitimers, Including An Automatic Cosmonaute to read the full article.
Fratello
I have enjoyed reviewing several Sternglas releases over the past couple of years. Mostly, they were stylish Bauhaus-inspired timepieces in black and white, which were good examples of the popular minimalist design philosophy. However, the Hamburg-based brand has not hesitated to add more colorful timepieces to its collection. The latest example is the new Sternglas […] Visit Sternglas Adds The Colorful New Lumatik To Its Expanding Collection to read the full article.
Fratello
A new MB&F; release is always reason enough to sit up straight and pay attention. I am all eyes and ears, especially if it combines yellow gold with black onyx. Yes, Fratelli, I am easy to please. All jokes aside, we all know that MB&F; is not just about materials and colors. Every watch has […] Visit Introducing: The MB&F; Legacy Machine FlyingT Onyx Edition to read the full article.
Fratello
Many fans of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms have been yearning for a non-limited edition in a smaller case - a watch like the 42mm Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 1 limited edition of last year. Well, steel stays limited, but red gold and titanium iterations are now unlimited, meaning 14 possible variations made their way […] Visit Blancpain Launches 42mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique Watches In The Regular Collection - Have Your Wishes Been Granted? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Having marked the 70th anniversary of its signature dive watch last year, Blancpain is now adding the Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42 mm to the lineup. Maintaining the vintage-inspired style of its larger sibling, the new Fifty Fathoms has a more compact, 42 mm case that’s available in either red gold or titanium – both entirely brushed – a size that was first seen on the 70th Anniversary Act 1 limited edition. Initial thoughts The overall appearance of the new Fifty Fathoms stays close to the longstanding ref. 5015, but in a smaller package. While its predecessor was a chunky 45 mm, the latest model is 42 mm. It retains almost exactly the same design, and even the same cal. 1315 inside (now visible through a display back), but in a more wearable case. If you liked the earlier version but found it too big, then the appeal of the 42 mm model is clear. More broadly, the CHF15,000-ish price point of the Fifty Fathoms is competitive given the build quality. The case and dial execution are good, while the movement is one of the more sophisticated amongst sports watches in this price range. New packaging The new Fifty Fathoms is essentially a compact version of the 45 mm model, which was launched in 2007, making it one of the longest tenured models in the catalogue. The 42 mm version preserves the familiar design, but in a smaller format. So the dial retains the Arabic numerals at the quarters, sword hands, and the italic model name above six. Because of the reduced size, th...
Teddy Baldassarre
After well over a decade of growth in both popularity and market presence, watches with blue dials can no longer be considered either a niche or a trend; blue-dial watches now make up a significant segment of new models being released, joining basic black and silvery white as a go-to colorway, whether the watch is simple or complicated, sport or dress, sleek and shiny or boldly textured. As such, assembling a list of favorite blue-dial watches has become increasingly challenging as more and more options become available. For this list, we wanted to strike a balance between entry-level and high-luxury while also showcasing a wide range of styles and functions and turning the spotlight on some newer models as well as some established favorites. Read on for the list, arranged in ascending order of price; we’ll also likely be adding to it in the future, so feel free to leave your own suggestions for best blue-dial watches in the comments below. Citizen Promaster Diver Price: $300, Case Size: 44mm, Thickness: 11.6mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Citizen Eco-Drive E168 Citizen unveiled its Promaster line of professional-grade sports watches in 1989 and its Promaster Diver models - equipped with the Japanese brand’s proprietary Eco-Drive technology, which uses light to perpetually charge the movement - have proven to be among the most popular of Citizen’s vast portfolio of timepieces. The 44mm steel case features a 60-click rota...
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