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Hands on review: with the new Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture
As promised here is our hands on detailed review of the new Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture. With live photography.
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Deployant
As promised here is our hands on detailed review of the new Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture. With live photography.
SJX Watches
Finnish independent watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva has once again turned to a Finnish artist for the Nocturne, a wristwatch that combines the technicolour luminosity of the brand’s Moomin editions with its trademark complication. Starkly monochromatic during the day, the multi-part dial comes to life at night, thanks to the nine colours of luminous paint that fill the hundreds of tiny apertures all precisely cut by laser. And sitting in the an window that occupies a third of the dial is a huge moon “face” that instantly marks this out as a Sarpaneva. Initial thoughts Though the Nocturne looks quite different from the brand’s past watches yet quintessentially Sarpaneva in style and execution. Although it relies on a similar decorative technique as the earlier Moomin edition, the Nocturne is far more distinct. And the slightly gothic style suits the Sarpaneva aesthetic perfectly. I like the design and being familiar with Sarpaneva’s other watches, I expect the quality of the dial to be excellent. In all tangible terms the watch is winner. But then there’s the price, which is substantial. The Nocturne costs €19,000. That’s within the ballpark for the brand’s moon-phase models, with the premium justified by the fancy dial. And compared to the broader market – especially with the current hype around independent watchmaking regardless of quality or provenance – it’s still a reasonable proposition. But it is pricey compared to Sarpaneva’s earlier offering...
Hodinkee
HYT lumes large with propriety materials and a new complication designed to capture the light of the moon.
Hodinkee
In which I discover the laws of supply and demand.
SJX Watches
A watchmaker with many a musician as brand ambassadors, Audemars Piguet has just unveiled a quintet of sports watches sporting a motif inspired by the digital display of a graphic equaliser, a piece of audio equipment used to vary the volume of frequency bands. Taking its inspiration quite literally, the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music Edition has the familiar tapisserie dial pattern but dressed up with the vertical lines of the display on a graphic equaliser. And in its fanciest form, the latest model renders the equaliser motif in colour gemstones that continue onto the bezel. Initial thoughts As with many of the brand’s more extravagant releases, the Music Edition is almost tacky but manages to pull it off. Decidedly modern and very much over the top, the colourful chequerboard is a fun, striking look that distinguishes the watch from every other Royal Oak, which is an accomplishment given the strength of the octagonal design. Traditionalists will sure disprove of the way the tapisserie dial has been reinvented, but it is certainly in keeping with the bold and adventurous style of the Le Brassus watchmaker. And that has its appeal in moderate doses. The secret to such over-the-top watches is to do it infrequently and as long as AP doesn’t repeat this often or regularly, the Music Edition is different and cool. The dial of the gem-set model is blue aventurine glass, adding another layer of sparkle to the watch Between the two dials available, the gem-set versi...
Hodinkee
A surprising Seiko movement allows Nivada to offer up the best of both worlds.
SJX Watches
A venerable retailer of vintage timepieces and independent watchmaking, Shellman marks its 50th year in business. Still in its landmark Ginza store that curiously sits slightly below street level, the Tokyo retailer has announced a series of one-off and limited edition watches to mark the occasion. The latest commemorative edition is a pair from Habring², the Felix Shellman 50th Anniversary and Chrono-Felix Shellman 50th Anniversary, both featuring a discreet champagne-tone sector dial with thoughtful details. The flagship Shellman store in Tokyo’s Ginza district Initial thoughts Habring² offers honest quality and solid engineering, which makes it tangible qualities impeachable, especially in its price segment. So the appeal of a specific Habring² watch boils down to its specific design. While sector dials are common today, perhaps too common, Shellman was a pioneer in this type of design, having debuted its first Habring² with a sector dial in 2017, well before the style became a fad. For that reason, these anniversary watches have a stronger resonance than the average sector dial. The time-only And the two are also intrinsically appealing because of their careful design. At a distance both appear to be typical “sector” dials – attractive but more of the same. Up close, however, the dial designs are both smartly executed with strong attention to detail. The leaf-shape hands, for instance, are a familiar shape, but here they are heavier than usual, giving the ...
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Bulova extends its collaboration with Frank Sinatra with two new watches called Summer Wind, honouring old Blue Eyes's song of the same name.
Hodinkee
NPR comes through with a report about a guy making watches that don't tell time – but do well on social media.
Deployant
There is a certain obsession with ultra-thin watches in the scene, with manufacturers trying to outdo each other by producing the world’s thinnest timepieces. Earlier this year, Bvlgari launched the world’s thinnest mechanical timepiece, in the form of the 1.80mm thick Octo Finissimo Ultra. This effort was however bested by Richard Mille, who recently justRead More
Hodinkee
Tudor's new 39mm watch is the latest in a line of watches that honors the old while bringing in the best of the new.
Quill & Pad
The new Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance First Edition is what some might call a reboot of the collection. But Joshua Munchow looks at it more as a rebirth. The new release has a high percent of shared “DNA” with the original Mirrored Force Resonance, but it is obviously made for a new era.
Hodinkee
From inexpensive world timers to hand-finished marvels of modern technology, nobody casts a wider net.
Quill & Pad
Rolex And Wimbledon: there are few brands that fit so well together, emulating each other in a way – though a fully unplanned way – with their staunch holds on traditionalism and domination of their respective fields. Since 1978 they have transcended social, cultural, language, and even ideological barriers together.
Quill & Pad
The lion’s share of high-end watch brands come from French- and German-speaking regions, so the correct pronunciations of their names are not always obvious or easy. This fun video by our friends at The Watches TV demonstrates the correct pronunciations and highlights a few common mistakes. And it will make you smile.
Deployant
Hanhart goes back to the roots of the most famous chronograph b re-launching the new 417 ES 1954 in the original case size of 39mm.
SJX Watches
A French watchmaking startup founded in 2017 that successfully reimagined several well-known vintage designs, Baltic has just unveiled highest-spec dive watch to date – and arguably its most contemporary design. While still clearly vintage-inspired in terms of aesthetics, the Aquascaphe Titanium does better than its predecessor in terms of materials, construction, as well as water resistance. The result is a more substantial watch that’s pricier but still value minded. The bezel insert is brushed ceramic with luminous markings Initial thoughts For a brand that’s heavily reliant on vintage watches for insrpaiton, the Aquascaphe Titanium is a welcome departure from its other offerings. Granted it still retains a retro feel, but does so with materials that are decidedly modern, namely ceramic and titanium. On the subject of materials, one aspect that distinguishes the new Aquascaphe is the highly-domed sapphire crystal that calls to mind PlexiGlas found on vintage watches. Rarely found in modern dive watches at this price, most of which utilise flat crystals, the domed crystal results in slight visual distortion of the dial’s edges, which might not help legibility but certainly adds to the vintage feel. Another key detail that contributes to the appealing vintage styling is the all-brushed finish on both the case and bezel, along with the tasteful typography, which speak to the brand’s attention to detail. At the same time, the design that combines smart details w...
Deployant
Audemars Piguet presents 5 new Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding models interpreted in 37mm and 43mm case sizes to celebrate world of music.
Time+Tide
Across the Time+Tide team, I am probably the least tuned into the racing world. Fun fact: I do not even have a driver’s license. Shameful, I know, but as someone born and raised in NYC, it is more common than you might think. Nonetheless, I can still appreciate the racing watch category. We often see … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy Extreme E “Island X Prix” Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
And Alexander Schmiedt, President of Vacheron Constantin Americas, sits down to talk about Vacheron's approach to developing the Overseas line.
Hodinkee
"Lisa, in this house we obey the laws of thermodynamics!" –Homer Simpson
SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey’s house style is often contemporary in design but traditional in decoration and construction, an approach best embodied by its watches with an open-worked movement for the dial. Now the brand has reimagined its usually classical movement aesthetic and combined it with a sleek and sharp case to create the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture. While the Architecture is fundamentally an iteration of the brand’s fastest-rotating and inclined tourbillon, it is powered by an all-new movement with swooping bridges and satisfyingly sharp lines. And the new calibre is contained within a sleek titanium case with an integrated strap, one no doubt inspired by its bestselling sports watches. Initial thoughts When I first saw images of the watch, my instinctive reaction was that it lived up to the name – it is impressive and architectural. I like the complex forms within the movement, which creates immense depth while also being slightly organic thanks to the curved, polished bridges. And the streamlined case is impressively detailed, especially on its flanks and edges. In fact, the Architecture is a major step forward over its predecessors in terms of architecture, no pun intend, in how it creates a strikingly more modern aesthetic for the movement while preserving the signature Greubel Forsey elements like the enormous bridge for the canon pinion that holds the hands or the jewels in chatons. One ingredient of its successful architecture is the shrewd and genero...
Deployant
The Calatrava is widely considered to be synonymous with the Patek Philippe brand. Ultra-elegant and timeless, it is seen as the very essence of the round dress watch. This philosophy of the Calatrava has been strictly held as gospel since the debut of the watch way back in 1932 – well, until this year anyway.Read More
Time+Tide
For six months, the Doxa SUB 600T Pacific has been by my side. Which is more than enough time to ask myself, should it still be there.The post Six months in, is the Doxa SUB 600T Pacific still right for me? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
What we love: Great colour combinations are available, our pick is the green dial A watch you can buy now, no waitlists Legibility and dial design and layout and good-looking movement through the caseback What we don’t love: The watch will wear big for wrist sizes smaller than 6.5 inches Some may find the push-button clasp dig into the underside of the wristSome may find the lugs to protrude on the leather and aid in wearing large Overall rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 7.5/ 10 Design: 8.0/10 Build quality: 8.0/10 RAYMOND WEIL is one of the few mainstream watch brands that are still independent and family-owned. So it is no surprise that they have re-invigorated their flagship Freelancer line and taken it up a notch for their 2022 release of the new Freelancer Chronograph 7741 line. I had the privilege of going hands-on with the new releases; the black and white ‘Panda’ on both steel bracelet and black leather strap, the two-tone with Rose Gold on the brown strap, and a striking green dial and bezel with silver Tri-Compax dials on the green leather strap. Young in Age, but Mature in Nature RAYMOND WEIL is a young brand in terms of watchmaking. Compared to other brands that have their roots put down in the 1800s and in some cases, late 1700s, this makes RAYMOND WEIL, born in 1976, a horological child in age (so to speak!) RAYMOND WEIL is known for style and being heavily aligned to music, and looking at RAYMOND WEIL watches, you’d be forgiv...
Deployant
If you are in the market for a cheerful and fun watches for the weekends, we have curated a list of timepieces that should meet the criteria.
Hodinkee
Time to get that watch tan cookin'.
Hodinkee
The many lives of a watch that spawned a whole new genre of watchmaking.
Hodinkee
A panel of auction-world and watch-industry experts respond – and try to forecast what might happen next.
Time+Tide
If we’re going to refer to it correctly, the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver really is more super in many ways than existing Aquaracer models. Combining massive water resistance and tough materials with a brand new movement, TAG Heuer is positioning the Superdiver as an out-and-out tool watch, sitting atop the constantly updated Aquaracer … ContinuedThe post The TAG Heuer Superdiver is an Aquaracer on steroids appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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