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Time+Tide
Tissot x Grendizer x Time+Tide brought the new PRX UFO Robot Grendizer collaboration to Melbourne's Robot Bar.The post Tissot & Time+Tide launch the PRX UFO Robot Grendizer with a cozy crowd in Melbourne’s laneways appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Independent watchmaking has been on the rise over the past 20 years, and for good reason. Independent watchmakers are guided by passion and personal perspectives, leading to authentic creations and often crafted to a level unattainable in mass production. David Candaux’s motto, “Le Coeur et l’Esprit” (the heart and mind), perfectly captures this philosophy. Raised […]
Fratello
This year marks the fourth time Omega will fulfill the role of official timekeeper for the America’s Cup. The 37th edition of one of the world’s most prestigious sailing races will take place in Barcelona, where six teams will compete to win and become the defender for the next edition. To celebrate Omega’s important role […] Visit Introducing: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M For The 37th America’s Cup to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Only recently taken over by LVMH, L’Epée 1839 is celebrating its 185th anniversary with the T35, a clock shaped like a 1920s racing car, specifically the acclaimed Bugatti Type 35, which set several records and won numerous Grand Prix. But the T35 is more than a clock – the removable engine block is actually a cigar lighter. Initial thoughts L’Epée 1839 is known for both its own clocks and the many collaborations with brands like MB&F; or Chanel. Although they are actual time-telling devices, L’Epée’s creations are usually elaborate kinetic sculptures which also happen to be built around clockwork. This is the case with the T35 as well. In itself the movement is not very advanced, but the T35 is more of an interactive kinetic sculpture rather than a serious chronometer. Bringing to mind the New York taxi clock made for Tiffany & Co., the T35 is a desktop timekeeper with clever details that allow the owner to interact with, like turning the steering wheel to set the time. The built-in lighter feels kitschy on its face, but is actually a logical and useful addition to the clock given the context. Such a clock will inevitably sit on a desk or coffee table, and cigars are a probable vice for many of the potential owners. A racing machine The T35 takes the shape of a classic racing car with aluminium bodywork on a steel chassis. The bodywork is available in classical racing colours: French racing blue, British racing green, Obsidian black, and Rosso Corsa. The elo...
Time+Tide
Omega shows that a special, tribute edition doesn't have to be any less daily-wearer friendly.The post The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M America’s Cup pays subtle tribute to the 37th event in Barcelona appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
In this hobby of ours, there constantly exists the urge to dive down new rabbit holes and subgenres of watch collecting, awaiting the next reason for us to open our wallets and find a reason to justify purchasing another piece. While this typically takes the form of a unique color combination or bezel insert, what about a function like backlights? Sure, Timex’s Indiglo has most certainly found mainstay within the watch industry––as has Casio’s Electro Luminesce technology and of course lume––but what others are out there? For those who haven’t had the pleasure, I now have the honor of introducing you to the fairly forgotten Seiko 7559 movement, utilized here in its most unique application: the 5010 model. A Brief History of the Cal. 7559 and its Applications As is the story with most watches I tend to develop an interest in, little is known about the design process behind this movement or model outside of repair manuals, blog posts, and owner photographs. The information included here is based on my own research, and I invite anyone interested in this model or movement to include any additional material they may know in the comments section below. Though I’ve attempted to collect as much information on the subject as possible, I would be delighted to hear that more pictures or materials of any kind exist elsewhere. Production of the cal. 7559 began somewhere in the summer months of 1978 and continued until the late 1980s. The quartz movement itself is a...
Monochrome
On the occasion of Porsche launching the 911 992.2 Hybrid, Porsche Design introduced a new watch collection to its custom-built program. Mechanically based on the previous generation of the Globetimer, Porsche Design now puts it in the titanium case of the chronograph. Made to order, and with tons of custom options on offer, you can […]
Worn & Wound
News broke this morning that Chanel has invested a 25% stake in MB&F;, one of our favorite independent brands. The investment comes on the eve of MB&F;’s 20th anniversary year, and is being framed by the brand as future-proofing the company. “It was our responsibility,” according to a statement from founder Max Büsser, “in today’s very favourable context and with our management team in its prime, to take this major step to ensure our long-term future.” MB&F; founder Max Büsser Büsser retains a majority stake in the company (60%) while his partner and Head of R&D; & Production Serge Kriknoff owns 15%. According to the statement released by MB&F;, the brand will continue to be run independently by the current leadership team, which also includes Charris Yadigaroglou (Head of Marketing Communications) and Thibault Verdonckt (Head of Sales). Brands taking on investment is of course nothing new, and the decision of a niche independent that has displayed over multiple decades that it’s capable of not only sustaining itself but growing feels like a smart business decision. It plays directly into a topic that comes up a lot in the world of independent watchmaking: What happens when a founder moves on? While there is no indication that Büsser is stepping aside anytime soon, longevity is something always on the mind of watch collectors. This is an industry, after all, where some brands can trace their roots to the 18th century. We covered this very topic in a Q&A; podcas...
Worn & Wound
Earlier this month, Worn & Wound hit the road, traveling just a few hours up the interstate to Boston, MA, where we were joined by our friends at Bulova for a friendly neighborhood watch meetup at Democracy Brewing in the city’s Downtown Crossing neighborhood. Bulova brought a ton of great watches for everyone to check out, including the newest edition of the Lunar Pilot in a bold red colorway, as well as the latest versions of the Surveyor, Jet Star, and Super Seville. The Super Seville in particular was a big hit, with a classic integrated bracelet look and Bulova’s state-of-the-art Precisionist movement. In addition to Bulova, Accutron, Alpina, and Frederique Constant were also well represented at the event. Boston has a fantastic watch enthusiast culture, and attendees were pulled from no less than three are collecting groups: Boston’s RedBar Chapter, Booze & Bezels (based in southern New Hampshire), and the Boston Watch Shots group. Everyone came with an interesting watch on their wrist and enthusiasm for the growing community in greater Boston. At the end of the night, a Bulova A-11 Hack was raffled off to a lucky winner, as well as several items from our new collection of Worn & Wound merch. Thanks to everyone for coming out, and thanks to Bulova for being our partners in this event. Stay tuned to these pages, the Worn & Wound+ Slack channel, and social media for information on future events. Images from this post: The post Worn & Wound Teams Up with Bul...
Deployant
One of the most popular model that Longines have launched in the recent years is back with a fancier duo tone case. The Longines Spirit Flyback comes either in Steel and 18-Carat Yellow Gold or Steel and 18-Carat Pink Gold!
Monochrome
A year ago, Louis Erard and watch influencer The Horophile (Amr Sindi) joined forces to create a special trilogy of the brand’s Petite Seconde known as the Metropolis. Following the same Art Deco recipe, the latest Petite Seconde Metropolis flaunts an attractive green dial, and comes in a non-limited edition. Since Manuel Emch’s arrival as […]
Time+Tide
The large, French, luxury house has taken a minority ownership stake in MB&F; which turns 20 years old next year. The post Chanel takes 25% ownership stake in MB&F; appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The PRX Robot Grendizer stands to entice a whole new audience to one of the strongest entry-level mechanical watches.The post Tissot brings two 1970s legends together with the PRX UFO Robot Grendizer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Following the 2022 debut of its first ever tourbillon – and the brand’s most complicated watch ever – Grand Seiko follows up this year with the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT005 “Daybreak”. Mechanically identical to its predecessor (the SLGT003), the new Kodo still boasts a co-axial tourbillon and remontoir, a novel construction unique to the Kodo. But the Kodo SLGT005 is dressed in brighter colours of silver tones and pale greys, hence the “Daybreak” nickname. The result is a watch that’s less aggressively technical in style, but just as complicated. And thanks to its lighter palette, the technicality and decoration of the movement are arguably more prominent in the Kodo “Daybreak”. Initial thoughts The Kodo in its original form had a strikingly skeletonised appearance that maximised the view of its intricate mechanics, giving something of an anime sci-fi aesthetic. This was accentuated by the dark colours highlighted with vivid, dark red rubies. The new version, on the other hand, is both lighter in colour and visual weight. Because there’s less colour contrast in the movement, it appears a bit more classical and less stylised. A clever touch are the blue jewels to replace the conventional red ruby bearings, which enhances the “daylight” theme. The original Kodo SLGT003 from 2022 Even though it looks different, the Kodo SLGT005 is identical in technical terms. So it still has the impressively constructed movement with a novel approach to t...
Quill & Pad
Martin Green has a passion for dress watches, so HYT has always been an interesting brand for him to write about, but not one he could see himself owning. The T1 has changed that.
Time+Tide
Spoiler alert - we're sorry to say that nobody mentioned Invicta. The post We picked our modern Holy Trinity, so it was time for our Instagram audience to do the same appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Ahead of Geneva Watch Days next week, Urwerk has unveiled what will surely be in the running for “Watch of the Year” talk when 2024 comes to a close. The EMC SR-71 is a new variation of one of the independent brand’s most discussed and honored timepieces. The original EMC, introduced ten years ago, is a former winner of the GPHG prizes in both the “Mechanical Exception” and “Innovation” categories. Even within the strange world of Urwerk, the EMC is an oddity, so it’s always exciting to see them return to this platform with a new variant. EMC stands for Electronic Mechanical Control, a term that seems to contradict itself but actually does a fantastic job of describing exactly what this watch does. What you need to know about how this watch operates is that the traditional time telling functions (hours, minutes, seconds, and power reserve) all operate mechanically. But integrated into the movement is an optical sensor linked to the balance that, on demand, can record the rate at which it is oscillating. Using light and an integrated circuit, the movement will tell you the delta between the timing rate of the mechanical movement and a reference oscillator (a 16,000,000 Hz mega-quartz oscillator in this case). Pressing a button on the side of the case activates a meter at roughly 10:00, telling you how fast or slow your watch is running. What’s more, the watch is equipped with a timing adjustment screw on the caseback that can be accessed by the owner wit...
Monochrome
Almost two years ago, we published a story about two young and talented watchmakers coming out of A. Lang & Söhne to set up shop for themselves. Johannes Kallinich and Thibault Claeys, founders of the Kallinich Claeys watchmaking atelier, were hard at work to develop and build their first watch, the Einser Zentralsekunde. On paper, […]
SJX Watches
Urwerk’s highly technical and unique approach to watchmaking is captured in the EMC SR-71, a limited edition of 10 pieces to mark the 10th anniversary of a model that has a built-in user-regulation device. This edition boasts a special and tangible link to military aviation with a crank handle from alloy retrieved from the fuselage of an SR-71 “Blackbird”, the famous Cold War-era, supersonic spy plane. Initial thoughts Although sci-fi and even extravagant in terms of mechanics, materials, and shapes, Urwerk timepiece have a certain hyper-functional, instrument-like quality to them. Trademark features like the “oil change” indicator make its watches feel like actual pieces of machinery. The original EMC was launched in 2014 as an endeavour in blending traditional watchmaking with contemporary electronics and micro computing technology. Though advanced, the EMC complication is esoteric and never really gained traction. However, for a specific niche of watch geeks and nerds, the EMC is an intriguing and original idea. The bit of an SR-71 “Blackbird” in the watch adds to the geeky appeal without being too gimmicky. The EMC is not the only watch with a piece of the SR-71 in it – in fact other such watches are mostly far less expensive – but it is certainly the most advanced and innovative. The Blackbird connection Fundamentally identical in terms of function and mechanics, the EMC SR-71 is special because it features components made from an alloy recast from t...
Monochrome
Flying higher, longer and faster than any aircraft that came before it, the Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird is a legendary marvel of engineering. So much so, that it still inspires people to this day. People like Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner, the gifted duo behind the hyper-technical independent watchmaker Urwerk. Their latest is the EMC SR-71, […]
SJX Watches
As the official timekeeper of the 37th America’s Cup soon taking place in Barcelona, Omega is marking the occasion with the Seamaster Diver 300M America’s Cup. A time-only version of the brand’s signature dive watch, the latest Seamaster features most of Omega’s material and movement innovations, including a laser-engraved ceramic dial and METAS-certified Master Chronometer movement. The special edition also sports yachting-specific elements, including a blue ceramic bezel with a regatta countdown scale and a seconds hand counterweight in the form of the America’s Cup trophy. Initial thoughts As a special or limited edition, the new Seamaster is not especially interesting since Omega does a lot of them, with several commemorative editions for each sporting events it’s part of. And it’s not just for sports but also the James Bond film franchise. But as a new Seamaster, the America’s Cup edition works well. For one it’s a good value proposition at US$6,500 on a bracelet, particularly given the specs and features. At the same time, the blue-and-white aesthetic is appealing, especially with the clean, no-date look. And there’s the subtle detail on the minute hand with a gradual colour fade finish that is novel and so far unique in the Omega catalogue. So leaving aside that it’s yet another commemorative watch – it could do without the large logo on the sapphire back – the America’s Cup edition stands out as of the more appealing Seamaster models. A...
Quill & Pad
In recent years, several factors have come together resulting in the exponential rise of microbrand watches. This new microbrand wave is one of the biggest developments in the broader watch market. I would mention here that not all microbrands are equal. There are many watches out there that, to be honest, are not worth your time. However, some microbrands are getting it right as Raman Kalra highlights here.
Hodinkee
If you like phenomenal movements, technical innovation, and a whole lot of lume, this new watch is going to blow you away.
Worn & Wound
Ming is a brand that tends to elicit strong reactions from enthusiasts. They are certainly not to everyone’s taste, but those who love the brand really love the brand and are among the most enthusiastic collectors I’ve encountered in the watch world. I’ll be honest, Ming’s house aesthetic is typically not for me, personally, but I’ve gained a tremendous amount of respect for the brand as I’ve had a chance to talk to more owners about they find these watches so interesting. A big part of it, as it always seems to be, is the community built around that ownership experience. That community reveals itself in a public way via Ming’s Special Project’s Cave, a kind of skunk-works segment of the brand that is free to experiment as the brand develops new technologies. As Ming always points out when they release a watch from the Cave, the process always involves input from their customers, so you could think of the watches in this series as a real reflection of the brand’s owners. If that’s the case, their latest creation, the 20.01 Series 3, kind of proves my point about the vibrancy of the Ming community. At a high level, the 20.01 Series 3 is a precious metal chronograph utilizing the excellent AgenGraphe movement by Agenhor. But when you get closer (and closer) you realize that the 20.03 is perhaps the brand’s most avant-garde creation yet, which is saying something considering some of the projects that have come out of the Special Projects Cave to this p...
Fratello
Owning a vintage watch can be an enriching experience. It can also be frustrating and unforgiving when someone brings up an issue or inconsistency. Today’s story is positive, but there were instances of concern. Thankfully, luck entered the picture and produced a happy ending with this Omega Speedmaster 105.003-65 Ed White. First, it’s important to […] Visit Speedy Tuesday: Unraveling The Mysteries Of My Speedmaster 105.003-65 Ed White to read the full article.
Deployant
Released in July 2024, Luminox celebrates their legacy of 35 years with the release of three novelties viz their SEA, AIR and Land campaigns.
Time+Tide
With a captivating dial construction, the Ming 20.01 Series 3 shows what the Ming Special Projects Cave can do in the dark. The post The Ming 20.01 Series 3 is the latest marvel from Ming’s Special Projects Cave appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
In recent news, watchmaker Omega has recently announced the renewal of its role as the Official Timekeeper of one of the the world’s most intense sailing races and the oldest trophy in international sport, the America’s Cup. The brand began its partnership with Emirates Team New Zealand and legendary sailor Sir Peter Blake in 1995 […]
SJX Watches
The Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G is one of Patek Philippe’s most practical watches in the “Compilations” family because it combines two useful functions: a calendar that needs setting only once every four years along with a dual time zone display with double day-night indicators. Smartly constructed such that the calendar indicators move in sync with the local time hand, the ref. 5326G has a vintage-toned aesthetic on a smartly detailed dial, presented in an elaborately decorated case. All of that, however, is packaged with a hefty price tag. Initial thoughts Like its sibling the Calatrava ref. 5226G, the ref. 5326G captures Patek Philippe’s latest generation aesthetic, which is not just about design, but fancy execution of the dial and case. Compared to equivalent models from before, the ref. 5326G takes a more elaborate approach to the habillage, with the hobnailed case flanks being an example. It does, however, still feel like a Patek Philippe. Though it’s relatively large at 41 mm, the case is thin at just over 11 mm, giving the watch an elegant, if wide, profile. The ref. 5326G also stands out for having a movement from the 31-260 family of large calibres that represent the latest and greatest in self-winding Patek Philippe movements. In fact, it’s one of only five references with a 31-260 movement. The cal. 31-260 is unquestionably the most sophisticated of Patek Philippe’s automatic movements, and also the most appealing in terms of design wi...
SJX Watches
Mido once again turns to its popular vintage remake with the all-black Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961. The latest in a considerable number of iterations of the model, the new Ocean Star stays faithful to the original in outline and features a trademark multicoloured decompression table on the dial. One of the smaller and less prominent brands in the Swatch Group stable that includes Omega and Longines, Mido’s latest is a limited edition of 1,961 pieces to celebrate the 80th anniversary of the Ocean Star model. Initial thoughts Vintage reissues are common enough they have become cliché, especially in this price segment. The Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 has arguably been iterated too often, each time in slightly different colourway, so the new version isn’t all that novel. That said, it is affordably priced – retail is US$1,480 – and boasts an original design thanks to the decompression scale on the dial. Additionally, this version with its black-PVD coated finish stands out against earlier variants with stealthy aesthetic that creates more contrast with the colourful dial. At the same time, the ETA calibre inside has higher specs than most movements in this price segment, a result of Mido’s parent also owning ETA. Stealthy thetics The stainless steel case measures 40.5 mm in diameter and 13.4 mm high, which give it the proportions of a modern watch despite the retro styling. The crystal is domed “glass box” style to mimic the PlexiGlas of the vint...
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